2015 Subaru Forester TR580 CVT Transmission Bearing Replacement

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Jul 18, 2022
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I decided to tackle fixing a TR580 with bearing noise. There is some information available online but not much. Parts are hard to find also. Couple of Youtube Videos and the Forester Factory Service manual has enough info to disassemble to the point of removing the primary and secondary pulleys to expose the bearings.

This thread is in general how I'm tackling to job, its a not a step by step guide. I hope it works. Its a learning experience. I could have bought a used transmission, but I'm up for the challenge!

2015 Forester 126k Miles, the transmission started making noise when in gear. Putting it on 4 stands and running it there is a prominent noise from the transmission. I found some similar videos online pointing to the bearings. The CVT fluid was changed 1 time at 100k miles using Valvoline CVT fluid.

I took a shot buying a Koyo Bearing kit off Ebay for a TR580. I received what appear to be 4 genuine bearings identified below on the exploded view.

I'm halfway through the job. One of the bearings received(#1 in the diagram below) is a different part number than removed from the transmission. I'm waiting on the correct bearing to arrive. Ill snap some more pictures during re-assembly.

The (2) on this picture represents a bearing held in the side of the transmissions case. It supports the end of the shaft and isn't shown on this exploded view.

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Transmission Removed. Blow the dust off, tape over any open connectors and holes, wash with soap and a brush, rinse and blow dry.

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On the work bench. The general process is
1.) Remove the extension case, the transfer clutch and gear shafts. (they just lift out, there are shims you need to keep track of)
2.) Remove pan, strainer, shift linkage, valve linkage, oil baffle screws, from inside the pan
3.) Remove the sensors(we didn't and broke 1)
4.) Remove the transmission case (remove the bolts, separate the halves, and it lifts off)

We also removed the valve body, but after removal, I don't see why that is necessary.

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Pulleys exposed.
The pulleys and chain guide supports are held in with 7 bolts(marked red and green). Removing them allows you to lift both shafts out of the case without removing the chain.

The bolts marked green have to be loosened part way, then lift the shafts out part way, then fully remove. (reinstall is the reverse)

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Pulleys removed and on the bench. You need 2 people, wiggle them side to side while lifting and they will come out.

From here you can remove the retaining nuts with an impact and then use a puller to remove the bearings. One of the nuts is staked, use a small screw driver to un-stake it. Once installed, use a punch to stake it

The new bearings can be tapped into place using a punch on the inner race. They are not a very tight fit. Support the shaft from the opposite end, then GENTLY tap the bearing into place going side to side. It wont take much force.

The bearing pointed out(on the left) is the bad one. It was rough turning by hand, and has a scar on the outer race.

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We did the top bearing before removing the pulleys.

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3 bearings are on the shafts. The 4th is in a blind hole on the T Case. There is small hole on the opposite side to insert a punch and tap out the bearing.
Pic after removing it.
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Awesome! Thanks for taking the time for the write up and pics. How did the fluid, filter and magnets look on the first drain and after the Valvoline CVT fluid?
When changing the fluid I didn't drop the pan because its just a strainer. The filter is housed in the transmission case, I installed a new one during this project. During this job, I removed the pan and there wasn't an excessive amount of metal. It looked normal to me, cleaner than i expected.
 
The Subaru is back together and after ~50 miles everything feels good. Running Quietly, and no drips.

Going Back together.

On the Transmission Case, New Sealing Rings, a bearing, and a filter under the cap.

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On the Diff/TC Case Side, New sealing Rings
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2 New Big Orings
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Sealing the 2 Cases. I used Permatex The Right Stuff 1 minute Gasket Maker. On my first attempt I was not confident it the bond and there was a TON of squeeze out. I bought the special dispenser can, but it really lays a big bead. I also saw some oil in this area. I think i had excess oil in the case and when i flipped it over to set it on the oil ran down the walls and onto the mating surface.

I separated the case, cleaned off the sealant, degreased the walls of the case with brake clean. Wiped it down as much a possible. Then i laid a new bead and spread it thin with my finger removing the excess.

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I'm glad I did, there was way to much sealant on the inside of case.
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In hindsight, I should have bought the 90 minute version in the normal small tube. This bottle just dispensed too much and I felt rushed because you have to assemble within 5 minutes.
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Shift Linkage and spool Back In

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Next I installed a new oil pan strainer, and the oil pan. Then the valve body and cover plate. Sorry, I Idon't have pictures of that.

New oring and transfer gear installed, then rear shaft and the extension housing is reinstalled. I dont have picture. It gets a bead of sealant in a similar way as the previous.
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New TC input Shaft Seal
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New TC Oring
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I also used new Right and Left Axle Seals and rear driveshaft seals. New fluid as well. Went with Idemitsu Type SB2.

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Fully assembled, almost ready for install.

I installed the LH axle seal in the RH bore, then dented the rear driveshaft seal when installed. So I had the track down new seals, and try again.

When installing the axles, i managed to knock one of the springs from the seal.

So all in, I ruined 3 oil seals in the process. Of course i didn't want to wait, so its like $30 in seals down the drain from autoparts stores. :ROFLMAO:

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OP, if you're so inclined, maybe post a list of any specialty tools you used? I mean, 'cause surely you're not busy and apparently it's my place to issue you assignments...... ;)
 
No problem, I don't mind answering questions and providing more details. Here is the info on tools/equipment. Ill write up a post on Parts sourcing.

I didn't use anything custom, you can take the whole car apart with 8,10,12,14,17mm sockets and wrenches. Draining the diff requires a Big T70 Torx Socket.

Removing and Installing the Transmission:
- To tilt the engine I used a engine brace like this. You might be able to get away without it. We did use it to tilt the engine during removal and also to support it once the transmissions crossmember is removed. During installation, I completely removed it and it made alignment easier. I'm not sure if you actually need this.
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- Transmission Jack - The scissor type from harbor freight worked for me. However, bolt a piece of plywood to it. I had to for reinstall, everything was just sliding around too much. Using an impact to lower it caused it to bounce too much. I used a cordless rachet.
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- Lifting The vehicle. I had the rear tires on rhino ramps, and the front supported on 3 ton(taller) jack stands sitting on 2x4's. This gave plently of space to easily remove the driveshaft, exhaust, and get the transmission on the ground. To roll it out from under the vehicle, i stacked 4 pieces of 4x4 on my floor jack and lifted the front end high enough to roll the transmission out. Then set the vehicle back on the jack stands.


Replacing Bearings:
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The nut on the left was removed with channel locks. The nut on the right was too tight and I had to source a 46mm socket. It must be a 6 point socket. A 12 point will only further round off the corners. I bought a 12 point from northern tool and figured this out. Ended up ordering the 6 point.
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- You need a bearing splitter and a puller. I bought the icon 3 jaw which worked on 3 of 4 bearings. On the 4th we had to use the splitter and a hammer to get enough clearance for the jaws to grab. The right puller for the job is this one. I already opened the 3 jaw, so I was committed it to.
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Link for Subaru Factory Service Manuals:
 
Curious (sry if I missed it) how much you spent on parts vs the used trans? Not counting fluid, as that would have been needed either way.

Also how much time excluding removal/reinstall, as those steps would be the same for both.

I'm sure at the end of the day, you have the benefit of knowing that the trans is fully functional aside from being noisy vs the unknown of a used trans.

Good job knocking this out! One day I need to get a garage where I can do stuff like this. Difficult with just a driveway and a carport open to the elements.
 
Thanks, I saved around $500 vs a used trans. I did run those numbers. I found a used transmission I was going to buy if i found unrepairable damage.

Total for my Fix - $1004
Parts : $614
Tools: $390

Total for Used Trans - $1560
Trans, Parts, Oils, Seals I would replace : $1450
Tools: $110

Conservatively estimate, I spent 24 hours on the whole job. I estimate 16 hours R&R Transmission and 8 Hours Rebuilding the Transmission. This was the first time I have removed a transmission, someone with experience obviously would do better.

In hindsight, I should have not ordered parts until I disassembled the transmission. I ended up with a $40 bearing that I cant return, and only used about 10% of the parts in the "rebuild kit" I ordered. It didn't save me any time because I had to wait 1 week for the right parts to show up.
 
Thanks, I saved around $500 vs a used trans. I did run those numbers. I found a used transmission I was going to buy if i found unrepairable damage.

Total for my Fix - $1004
Parts : $614
Tools: $390

Total for Used Trans - $1560
Trans, Parts, Oils, Seals I would replace : $1450
Tools: $110

Conservatively estimate, I spent 24 hours on the whole job. I estimate 16 hours R&R Transmission and 8 Hours Rebuilding the Transmission. This was the first time I have removed a transmission, someone with experience obviously would do better.

In hindsight, I should have not ordered parts until I disassembled the transmission. I ended up with a $40 bearing that I cant return, and only used about 10% of the parts in the "rebuild kit" I ordered. It didn't save me any time because I had to wait 1 week for the right parts to show up.
What was the bearing part number you had to order that was the incorrect in the original kit you bought?
I'm having a hard time finding that bearing. As that's the one that's bad on my cvt. Number 1 in your first diagram posted.
 
What was the bearing part number you had to order that was the incorrect in the original kit you bought?
I'm having a hard time finding that bearing. As that's the one that's bad on my cvt. Number 1 in your first diagram posted.
Number 1 in my diagram is DG358816 it is the part that was incorrect in the kit. Picture of the assembly below. I ordered a genuine koyo on ebay. (DG358816 is the part I needed. A different number was in the kit)

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