Help fixing bike please

[AZjeff]

RE the chainrings, what is the condition of the chain? Has it ever been replaced? If you replace the chain before it gets too worn you can keep using your old rings and cassette. If you let the chain get too stretched when you replace it it will skip and misbehave and all you can do is replace the rings and cassette. If everything is worn you can't replace one thing. If the cassette lock ring is tight that freehub is pretty worn unless the hollow fastener that attaches it to the hub is loose. Never tried to rebuild a freehub, just replace it.

A chain wear gauge is a great tool to save you money. Keeping ahead of the chain saves you money.
Park Tool chain checker

 

[Pablo]

Another probably dumb question. Is this play in the free hub normal or is this a worn out bearing?

Looks excessive in the video

 

[JWC86]

RE the chainrings, what is the condition of the chain? Has it ever been replaced? If you replace the chain before it gets too worn you can keep using your old rings and cassette. If you let the chain get too stretched when you replace it it will skip and misbehave and all you can do is replace the rings and cassette. If everything is worn you can't replace one thing. If the cassette lock ring is tight that freehub is pretty worn unless the hollow fastener that attaches it to the hub is loose. Never tried to rebuild a freehub, just replace it.

A chain wear gauge is a great tool to save you money. Keeping ahead of the chain saves you money.
Park Tool chain checker

Thanks for the detailed reply.

I replaced the chain last year. I replaced the cassette the year before I believe and if I recall correctly that middle chain ring was replaced also… maybe, not sure.

I picked up a park chain checker tool just now so I will check the chain and go from there I guess.

I also picked up the cassette tool and a set of chain pliers so I will check out the hub situation.

Thanks for all the help guys, I really appreciate it!

I will service the steering head bearings also, might as well at this point, I think that’s the only thing left. I’m going to have to start taking care of this thing better moving forward. Shouldn’t be a problem now that I have the right tools.

 

[853okg]

The chainring is probably fine. You’ll know if it isn’t because the chain will slip on it. If you need to replace it they’re not too expensive. I’d be surprised if you have to.
The cassette body usually has play. There are micro shims that can be used if you have to but again I doubt you’ll need them.
I love the chain checkers. They’re incredibly conservative. A new chain is often on the edge. I joke that their purpose is to sell chains.
Replacing the bearings will make a huge difference. Consider using Vibratite or green loctite to ensure there’s no creaking.

 

[JWC86]

The chain checked out good. Couldn’t get the 0.5% side in or even close.

I disassembled the entire rear wheel hub. Both bearings in the free hub(inner and outer) are smoked, considerable play in both. Rear wheel bearing wasn’t to bad but going to replace it since we came this far. The only bearings I didn’t pull on the whole bike are the front wheel which are fine.

This project has been quite a learning curve but I enjoy actually having some knowledge now of how these components work.

I ordered all the bearings(went with USA made Enduro MAX for all but the back wheel, that one is NSK) and also ordered a bearing press kit from Amazon to make life easier.

Hopefully I can start getting it back together next week.

 

[tcp71]

measure from the center of one pin to a pin 12" away. If the pin is more than 12 1/16" away, replace the chain.
The use of ball bearings in something that moves a total of 5degrees and back in suspension always seems silly to me. Bronze bushings make more sense but the cartridge bearings are much cheaper and easier to replace.

 

[Pablo]

The chain checked out good. Couldn’t get the 0.5% side in or even close.

I disassembled the entire rear wheel hub. Both bearings in the free hub(inner and outer) are smoked, considerable play in both. Rear wheel bearing wasn’t to bad but going to replace it since we came this far. The only bearings I didn’t pull on the whole bike are the front wheel which are fine.

This project has been quite a learning curve but I enjoy actually having some knowledge now of how these components work.

I ordered all the bearings(went with USA made Enduro MAX for all but the back wheel, that one is NSK) and also ordered a bearing press kit from Amazon to make life easier.

Hopefully I can start getting it back together next week.

Chains are not super expensive.

I'm guessing they must have placed it at some point. I would just go new chain but that's me.

Regardless, dang good man!!

 

[JWC86]

Chains are not super expensive.

I'm guessing they must have placed it at some point. I would just go new chain but that's me.

Regardless, dang good man!!

I put a new chain on last year, don’t think it needs another one already or maybe you just glazed over that detail when I posted earlier. ( I’m not trying to be a smart ass, I have no clue about this bicycle stuff).

 

[Pablo]

I put a new chain on last year, don’t think it needs another one already or maybe you just glazed over that detail when I posted earlier. ( I’m not trying to be a smart ass, I have no clue about this bicycle stuff).

I honestly missed it. My apologies. I just took it as you were rehabbing a used bike - I need to read closer ahhahahahha

 

[JWC86]

I honestly missed it. My apologies. I just took it as you were rehabbing a used bike - I need to read closer ahhahahahha

No worries, would have been easy to miss.

I bought this bike used about 7 years ago, it’s a 2009. I don’t think the previous own did much, if any maintenance. I had a shop do the bottom bracket and cassette/chain and maybe that middle chainring around 2020 I think. Then last year I snapped a chain and installed a new one. That’s the history on it.

 

[JWC86]

Installed the new bottom bracket last night.

Is it just because I bought a really cheap one($20CAD) or do they all have a plastic sleeve between the bearings and the crank? Just seems like a clear weakness to me. Why not just have the bearings sized directly to the crank? Maybe the more expensive versions are like this?

 

[Pablo]

Installed the new bottom bracket last night.

Is it just because I bought a really cheap one($20CAD) or do they all have a plastic sleeve between the bearings and the crank? Just seems like a clear weakness to me. Why not just have the bearings sized directly to the crank? Maybe the more expensive versions are like this?

You mean between the spindle and the bearings or the actual cranks?

I've never seen that before this bike.

 

[JWC86]

You mean between the spindle and the bearings or the actual cranks?

I've never seen that before this bike.

Assuming the spindle is the shaft between the cranks then yes. The spindle is isolated from the bearings with a plastic sleeve.

That’s what broke on the old bottom bracket.

Next time I’ll buy a higher quality bottom bracket.

 

[Pablo]

Assuming the spindle is the shaft between the cranks then yes. The spindle is isolated from the bearings with a plastic sleeve.

That’s what broke on the old bottom bracket.

Next time I’ll buy a higher quality bottom bracket.

That is a funky design alright.

Ideally it should be a snug/tight metal to metal fit...

Basically yours is a three piece bottom bracket. Do they not make a bottom bracket cartridge to fit that shell (frame weldment)?

Cartridge is all in one.

 

[853okg]

Assuming the spindle is the shaft between the cranks then yes. The spindle is isolated from the bearings with a plastic sleeve.

That’s what broke on the old bottom bracket.

Next time I’ll buy a higher quality bottom bracket.

That plastic sleeve often breaks. Your BB is amazingly durable…given its price (I just bought some for less than ten bucks). A high quality (Wheels of Boulder for example) BB costs about $70 (wholesale) but is much better and uses different bearings.
A huge cost is the bearings. This is where it’s a race to the bottom and why you were smart to order the hub bearings you did.
The bicycle industry traditionally used cup and cone bearings. When the cartridge bearing was introduced to the market in the 70s by small manufacturers such as Roger Durham and Phil Wood they used the best bearings available. It didn’t take long to cheapen them and now it’s the norm. You can get good bearings but you have to seek them out and they’re expensive.

 

[JWC86]

That plastic sleeve often breaks. Your BB is amazingly durable…given its price (I just bought some for less than ten bucks). A high quality (Wheels of Boulder for example) BB costs about $70 (wholesale) but is much better and uses different bearings.
A huge cost is the bearings. This is where it’s a race to the bottom and why you were smart to order the hub bearings you did.
The bicycle industry traditionally used cup and cone bearings. When the cartridge bearing was introduced to the market in the 70s by small manufacturers such as Roger Durham and Phil Wood they used the best bearings available. It didn’t take long to cheapen them and now it’s the norm. You can get good bearings but you have to seek them out and they’re expensive.

I alway try to source high quality Japanese bearings for applications that will see a load and IMO this is a pretty high load for the size of bearing. I guess they keep them small for weight savings. That said, these appear to be the OEM bearings still is use after 15 years so not bad at all.

I was very surprised to find out about Enduro Bearings made in USA(California). From what I’ve read they make very high quality bearings. The “MAX” series are designed specifically for bike suspension applications. They have no retainer ring and rather extra balls to help with the high loads and low(no) rpm. The price wasn’t crazy for what they are, about twice what I could get Chinese bearings for at the local bike shop. The Chinese bearings can be found cheaper on Amazon but it requires buying more than I need and reviews are what you would expect with some having play and notchy from new.

As for the bottom bracket, are you saying the expensive versions still have the plastic between the bearing and the spindle?

 

[853okg]

I alway try to source high quality Japanese bearings for applications that will see a load and IMO this is a pretty high load for the size of bearing. I guess they keep them small for weight savings. That said, these appear to be the OEM bearings still is use after 15 years so not bad at all.

I was very surprised to find out about Enduro Bearings made in USA(California). From what I’ve read they make very high quality bearings. The “MAX” series are designed specifically for bike suspension applications. They have no retainer ring and rather extra balls to help with the high loads and low(no) rpm. The price wasn’t crazy for what they are, about twice what I could get Chinese bearings for at the local bike shop. The Chinese bearings can be found cheaper on Amazon but it requires buying more than I need and reviews are what you would expect with some having play and notchy from new.

As for the bottom bracket, are you saying the expensive versions still have the plastic between the bearing and the spindle?

 

[853okg]

No, the higher end units don’t have that ridiculous sleeve and some use Enduro bearings.
https://www.jensonusa.com/Wheels-MFG-BSA-Road-68mm-Bottom-Bracket-7

 

[97prizm]

Anyone have any thoughts on my earlier post about accidentally using mineral oil to flush the brakes? I left the mineral oil in the system for about 12hrs before I flushed it out with DOT.

Id look at replacing the lines and purging the system as I don't know if you'd ever get all of the mineral oil out.

 

[JWC86]

Bearings came in and got them all installed. I decided to pick up this press tool from Amazon.

I could have just used bolts/washers/sockets,etc but since I had 14 bearings to do it justified buying the tool for me and no regrets at all. The kit made the job fast and super easy.