HELP! 2016 Toyota Sienna Crank but no start condition suddenly

I pulled the fuel pump relay, and Jimmy rigged a wire with a spade connector on the end of it to plug directly into the output underneath the relay for the fuel pump and had the wife touch the bare end to the battery.

 
I've seen a weak battery turn over an engine normally ..... but wasn't able to start it .
That's an interesting case as I've never seen that before. Spark and port injectors use less power than the starter. And it's shared power not priority.
 
On a fuel injected engine pushing the pedal to the floor while cranking it will "clear flood mode" . Try it
Exactly. That'll disable the injectors and only let the engine spin over but not allow any combustion to occur guaranteeing it can't ever start. It's meant to clear any flooding either by fuel or water. It seems you haven't tried it.
 
Exactly. That'll disable the injectors and only let the engine spin over but not allow any combustion to occur guaranteeing it can't ever start. It's meant to clear any flooding either by fuel or water. It seems you haven't tried it.
A bad fuel pressure regulator can cause flooding .
 
I had a friend come over this afternoon with a very expensive and fancy snap-on diagnostic tool and he found that there is a B2799 code.

Something to do with an immobilizer fault so it could involve the transponder key ECU, the ECU…..

What would cause this suddenly and what is the correct way to narrow down the issue and get it repaired?
 
A bad fuel pressure regulator can cause flooding .
The engine would start as it's cranking before it floods with fuel if the ignition system is working. The injectors control the fuel being delivered. When the fpr in my Sierra failed I had a long crank time but it would still fire up once the system pressurized after about 5 seconds of cranking. The fpr prevents the system from depressurizing leading to long crank starts. The cylinders could flood with fuel if the injectors work in his sienna but that would point to the ignition system having an issue. Could also be that.
 
I pulled the fuel pump relay, and Jimmy rigged a wire with a spade connector on the end of it to plug directly into the output underneath the relay for the fuel pump and had the wife touch the bare end to the battery.



^^^ What is this video supposed to show??? Couldn't figure out if you bypassed the fuel pump relay and got the pump to run or not. Are you saying in Post #29 that the pump does not run with direct current applied? If so, the fuel pump is dead.

Also, if you suspect an immobilizer problem, have you tried to use a different transponder key or fob?
 
Issue found:
I had the van towed to a highly regarded local repair shop that also specializes in Hybrid vehicles and called beforehand to verify that they had the specialized Toyota scanning and diagnostics tools, which they did.

“Inspected and found communication code still active. Cleared all codes to start fresh and immobilizer code returned immediately.

Transponder ECU was not activating immobilizer, but engine ECU was detecting an immobilizer fault. Scoped immobilizer signal wires at engine ECU and found no signal. Accessed body connector in passenger front footwell where communication wires pass through and found one of the communication wires is broken and lots of corrosion around multiple connectors. Due to broken pins and corrosion, recommend installing new pins and cleaning other corroded terminals inside other connectors in footwell and reevaluating once communication has been restored.”

$667 to replace corroded pins and repair wiring.

Gotta love Michigan 🤦🏻‍♂️

@staff or @admins you can lock the thread.
 

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Yes, the Windshield has been replaced previous to our ownership so at least 4+ years ago. The caulk around the window in the upper passenger side looks kind of shoddy so I ordered a tube of 3M windshield caulk and will clean and fill in the gaps around the windshield to make sure it is sealed up well. Definitely do NOT want to go through this again.
 
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