Ive been there before and if its only your second time dont be afraid to ask someone to come help ya at least to be there in case of backup....buy a mapp gas torch and start heating up around the bolt for a little bit because it shouldnt take a whole lot to freee it up, then using gloves try loosening the bolt.
Having trouble getting the oil drain plug off
- Thread starter zerosoma
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Hello, All of the above and this--->Even the most "retail" auto parts stores have a selection of replacement drain plugs. See if you can choose one with a larger head size. I'm willing to bet that the engineers at Saab picked the 13mm size for their oil drain plugs as a hint to wrench goons that lots of torque is not needed. After removing 2 very chewed up plugs I'm happy to report that 17mm headed ones are available. Good luck. As a coincidence, I just had my first oil filter crushing experience last weekend. 'Twas on a factory filter. Those mussel guys are everywhere. Kira
Originally Posted By: Kira
I just had my first oil filter crushing experience last weekend.
When i do extended OCI's i run into tighter drain plugs, but on a few items the oil filter is just a disaster, my 05 R1 is a extreme challenge getting the filter off almost everytime.. I ALWAYS crush that sucker taking it off (OEM filter) i hand tighten it snug and then do a quarter turn with a wrench.. Ive seen oil filters on rockets blow off and this is my fear.. so thats why the extra quarter wrench turn is applied..
I just had my first oil filter crushing experience last weekend.
When i do extended OCI's i run into tighter drain plugs, but on a few items the oil filter is just a disaster, my 05 R1 is a extreme challenge getting the filter off almost everytime.. I ALWAYS crush that sucker taking it off (OEM filter) i hand tighten it snug and then do a quarter turn with a wrench.. Ive seen oil filters on rockets blow off and this is my fear.. so thats why the extra quarter wrench turn is applied..
The problem with 2' breaker bars is you'd need to raise the car very far off the ground to use them. Either that or you need a bar with a ratcheting head.
The thing that has never failed me is to use an 18" torque wrench with a rubber mallet and 6-point socket. If you're worried about damaging your expensive torque wrench, buy a $15 one from HF.
The thing that has never failed me is to use an 18" torque wrench with a rubber mallet and 6-point socket. If you're worried about damaging your expensive torque wrench, buy a $15 one from HF.
The previous shop you had the service done at should fix it......all from their pocket. BUT, if you've seriously mangled/rounded off the plug/head that bad, they may say it was "your fault".....since you didn't bring it to them first.....
I have a Fumoto on my Honda - for at least 15 years - never lost a drop. A 2 ft. breaker bar is the best way to go (not a torque wrench!). Then always use a new soft metal (not rubber) crush washer each change. If you need the better Sears type socket (flank drive type) for a rounded bolt, use it. Don't keep mashing it once buggered up.
It's the 18 year old Jiffy Lube kids under time pressure with an air ratchet that cause this. About 25 ft/lbs is enough - about 1/4 - 1/2 a turn over hand tight.
It's the 18 year old Jiffy Lube kids under time pressure with an air ratchet that cause this. About 25 ft/lbs is enough - about 1/4 - 1/2 a turn over hand tight.
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Almost every time my parents have taken their car to a shop to do an oil change, they over torque the drain plug. I usually will have to just bang it a few times with a rubber mallet, sometimes pretty forcefully. I wonder if it's a tactic to bring the customer back or simply the shop wants to remove all doubt that the plug is on tight.
Originally Posted By: OtisBlkR1
Originally Posted By: Kira
I just had my first oil filter crushing experience last weekend.
When i do extended OCI's i run into tighter drain plugs, but on a few items the oil filter is just a disaster, my 05 R1 is a extreme challenge getting the filter off almost everytime.. I ALWAYS crush that sucker taking it off (OEM filter) i hand tighten it snug and then do a quarter turn with a wrench.. Ive seen oil filters on rockets blow off and this is my fear.. so thats why the extra quarter wrench turn is applied..
IMO an extra quarter turn with a wrench after hand-tightening is too tight; it's no wonder you struggle to remove it. I typically hand-tighten the filter per the filter instructions ... typically 3/4 to 1 turn after O-ring contact and then I use a wrench to tighten just a bit more ... perhaps 1/32 of a turn, just enough to see it move. And always apply some oil on the O-ring before installing.
Originally Posted By: Kira
I just had my first oil filter crushing experience last weekend.
When i do extended OCI's i run into tighter drain plugs, but on a few items the oil filter is just a disaster, my 05 R1 is a extreme challenge getting the filter off almost everytime.. I ALWAYS crush that sucker taking it off (OEM filter) i hand tighten it snug and then do a quarter turn with a wrench.. Ive seen oil filters on rockets blow off and this is my fear.. so thats why the extra quarter wrench turn is applied..
IMO an extra quarter turn with a wrench after hand-tightening is too tight; it's no wonder you struggle to remove it. I typically hand-tighten the filter per the filter instructions ... typically 3/4 to 1 turn after O-ring contact and then I use a wrench to tighten just a bit more ... perhaps 1/32 of a turn, just enough to see it move. And always apply some oil on the O-ring before installing.
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Originally Posted By: tonycarguy
The problem with 2' breaker bars is you'd need to raise the car very far off the ground to use them. Either that or you need a bar with a ratcheting head.
The thing that has never failed me is to use an 18" torque wrench with a rubber mallet and 6-point socket. If you're worried about damaging your expensive torque wrench, buy a $15 one from HF.
Harbor Freight also sells a ratcheting 18" breaker bar with a 1/2" drive. Worked pretty good when I was struggling with a stuck starter bolt. I wouldn't use a torque wrench as a breaker bar unless you never plan to use it as a torque wrench again ... especially after pounding on it with a mallet.
The problem with 2' breaker bars is you'd need to raise the car very far off the ground to use them. Either that or you need a bar with a ratcheting head.
The thing that has never failed me is to use an 18" torque wrench with a rubber mallet and 6-point socket. If you're worried about damaging your expensive torque wrench, buy a $15 one from HF.
Harbor Freight also sells a ratcheting 18" breaker bar with a 1/2" drive. Worked pretty good when I was struggling with a stuck starter bolt. I wouldn't use a torque wrench as a breaker bar unless you never plan to use it as a torque wrench again ... especially after pounding on it with a mallet.
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Originally Posted By: InvalidUserID
Almost every time my parents have taken their car to a shop to do an oil change, they over torque the drain plug. I usually will have to just bang it a few times with a rubber mallet, sometimes pretty forcefully. I wonder if it's a tactic to bring the customer back or simply the shop wants to remove all doubt that the plug is on tight.
... or a tactic for selling a new oil pan + installation.
Almost every time my parents have taken their car to a shop to do an oil change, they over torque the drain plug. I usually will have to just bang it a few times with a rubber mallet, sometimes pretty forcefully. I wonder if it's a tactic to bring the customer back or simply the shop wants to remove all doubt that the plug is on tight.
... or a tactic for selling a new oil pan + installation.
Or maybe you're turning it to the wrong direction? It happens sometimes.
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