Having a hard time w/ retro-specing

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206
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Richmond, Va
I have a 2000 Ford Explorer XLT V8 5.0 w/ just over 60k miles on it. The owners manual and oil cap both say to use 5W-30 but Ford has come out and said to now use 5w-20. My gut tells me to stick w/ the original recommendation of 5w-30 but if the 5w-20 offers the same protection why not use it? The other thing that makes me apprehensive about a change is the fact that the 5.0 is a ohv motor. I was under the assumption that 5w-20 was for OHC motors? Anyone have any insight on the matter? Any help would be appreaciated, Ted
 

Bill in Utah

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I'd run either. If you want to run the 5w-30, it's going to do great and same with the 5w-20. Most of the time, there are better deals with 5w-30 so maybe let that be your guide! [Big Grin] What brand and type of oil have you been running up to date and what OCI? What type of operation? (hwy/city miles etc) Take care, Bill [Coffee]
 

Bill in Utah

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quote:
Originally posted by 302Xplorer: I've been using 5w-30 M1 reg or PP, MC filter 5k oci and 80/20 hwy/city. Thanks for the reply! Ted
With those miles and OCI, I'd go with a good 5w-30 or 5w-20 like Castrol GTX, Pennzoil,Halvoline or QS and get on with it. The miles and engine are easy on oil. Motorcraft oil is also excellent! Take care, bill [Coffee]
 

JHZR2

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If 5w-20 M1 is the same price as 30... id buy it and use it... the extra buffer of protection and stability that you get from a syn will make up for any issues of a 20wt oil in an OHV engine, and will potentially earn you a fraction of a percentage of MPG gain too! If youre spending the $$$ for a top notch top protecting oil like M1, Id consider the 20wt no problem. JMH
 
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Pottstown, PA
I'd offer, with your service, that dino would be quite suitable for 5k/3m. A synth should easily make 10k-12k/6m without breaking a sweat. Given your highway % ...I think your savings in fuel would be minimal between a 20 and 30 weight. There's just not much difference between them at temp. You're at temp most of the time.
 

302Xplorer

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Richmond, Va
The only reason I use synth insted of a dino is because of it's cleaning properties. THey way I see it, if I use a dino at 5k ocis I'll eventually have to use Auto RX and LC. Why not just use synth and not sweat it? Am I wrong in my thinking?
 
quote:
Originally posted by 302Xplorer: The only reason I use synth insted of a dino is because of it's cleaning properties. THey way I see it, if I use a dino at 5k ocis I'll eventually have to use Auto RX and LC. Why not just use synth and not sweat it? Am I wrong in my thinking?
Kinda sorta, not really. I think it all depends on the motor and how it was treated. I've seen an engine with over 150K that ran only dino and was virtually spotless on the inside...hardly even any varnish. Now, I've also seen an engine ran on Redline that had I can't remember how many miles on it (was over 100K), but it WAS spotless, no varnish at all. But Redline is a high ester oil, so it's a different animal than M1 I think. I feel the same as the rest of the guys about how your mostly highway situation makes you a good candidate for either A) continuing 5K OCI's with dino, or B) extending to 8-10K if using synthetic.. [Off Topic!] My 2004 Explorer has the SOHC V-6 and it still spec's 5w-30, while the Hemi V-8 is a pushrod and it's spec'd for 5w-20...just an FYI.
 

302Xplorer

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Richmond, Va
quote:
Originally posted by bighead: [QUOTE] [Off Topic!] My 2004 Explorer has the SOHC V-6 and it still spec's 5w-30, while the Hemi V-8 is a pushrod and it's spec'd for 5w-20...just an FYI.
I've seen that. I wonder what the logic is behind not using it in the 4.0 sohc. It's one of the few that was not retro graded for 5w-20. One would thin that it would be a perfect app. for 5w-20. But what the heck do I know? Anyway, I have had this Explorer from new and have run nothing but 5w-30 M1 (reg and ep). After doing lots-o-research I know that most SM GF-IV oils are great. My only reservation would be their ability to keep the engine clean. Given that my engine should be in to notch condition, would running a quality dino eventually "gunk" it up?
 

Bill in Utah

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quote:
would running a quality dino eventually "gunk" it up?
Ask Terry about Syn and LC. You'll still need to use LC with syn or dino. I've torn apart to the block a Ford Taurus v6 3.0 at 61k and 106k and it was spotless. No varnish, nothing. All it ran was Pennzoil 5w-30 and 10w-30 in 4-5k OCI. My 1986 Jetta with 270k+ miles is clean. Very little color and runs like a top. Thats with yesterdays oils! 1996 Chevy truck V6 4.3 180k is spotless with Pennzoil, Havoline and QS at 5-6k OCI. Clean and running excellent. My 2000 Silverado V8 had a valve cover leak and I had it off. Just like new at 40k. The times that any oil starts to not keep things clean is when the OCI is too long IMO. I've seen Mobil 1 sludge and dino sludge. I've also seen 25k OCIs on both... Not very pretty [No no] Your driving and engine would do fine with any oil you'd like to run. You just need to decide if the extra money is worth it. I've put the oil in (both Syn and dino) and done the tests. Dino won for me. [Cheers!] I drive more than the average guy here and will need 300k on my engine. I'll make it no problem as long as someone (some semi) does not take me out... [Roll Eyes] Take care, Bill [Coffee]
 

302Xplorer

Thread starter
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206
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Richmond, Va
Why the need for LC? Why the need for LC w/ synth as well as dino? Would I need to auto RX w an oci of 5k and Castrol GTX 5w-20? I might convert if it is really not necessary to run the synth in my truck, might save some money too.
 
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505
Location
Los Angeles, CA
I run M1 5w20 in an Ford OHV 3.0 and I like it. I used to run 5w30, but my UOA was better with the 20. Off topic, but I have a feeling Dodge likes 5w20 for their new engines because of the whole displacement on demand thing. Not saying it doesn't work or lubricate well. But running a 5w40 in one of those engines may not work with that technology.
 
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