Has anyone used 0/5W20 in an old engine?

OM605

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Maybe my thinking is flawed but the M111FE european fuel economy test is done on a M111 engine just like mine after all. Why would they still use this platform to test every possible fuel economy oriented 0W20, 5W20, 0W30, 5W30 if it wasn't a highly viscosity tolerant engine?
 
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Maybe my thinking is flawed but the M111FE european fuel economy test is done on a M111 engine just like mine after all. Why would they still use this platform to test every possible fuel economy oriented 0W20, 5W20, 0W30, 5W30 if it wasn't a highly viscosity tolerant engine?
Nearly every engine is tolerant of oils with various HT/HS values. It mostly comes down to a necessary minimum value, as well as operating temperatures and conditions. No engine is damaged or otherwise harmed by an oil with a "higher" HT/HS but it may be damaged with one that is too low.

And having said that there are no upsides to an oil with a lower HT/HS besides a small fuel economy increase. If that small increase is not your singular goal then there is no technical benefit to using a thinner oil.
 

OVERKILL

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Maybe my thinking is flawed but the M111FE european fuel economy test is done on a M111 engine just like mine after all. Why would they still use this platform to test every possible fuel economy oriented 0W20, 5W20, 0W30, 5W30 if it wasn't a highly viscosity tolerant engine?
I assume that engine gets rebuilt every time it's used. Not really a great reference point, it's a fuel economy test, not an engine durability one.
 
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Nearly every engine is tolerant of oils with various HT/HS values. It mostly comes down to a necessary minimum value, as well as operating temperatures and conditions. No engine is damaged or otherwise harmed by an oil with a "higher" HT/HS but it may be damaged with one that is too low.

And having said that there are no upsides to an oil with a lower HT/HS besides a small fuel economy increase. If that small increase is not your singular goal then there is no technical benefit to using a thinner oil.

How do you know when an oil is too thick for ultimate longevity? Surely not just cold cranking troubles.
 
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My 06 Accord 4cyl- I used 0w-20 on winter months and back to 5w-20 in springtime.It feels like 0w-20 turn the engine better etc.
 
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Got a 2000 Honda CR-V 5-speed manual and AWD, heavy oil burner (1qt every fuel fill up at the time of this "experiment"). Ran some Idemitsu 0W20 in it since it burns it all anyways, and I got a good stash of it. That was in the summer too, and that B20Z2 engine makes no power below 3500RPM. In fact, cruising at 60MPH is 3000RPM. Cruising at 70MPH is close to 4000RPM. So middle of summer, high revs, but engine still consumed the same amount of oil with 0W20 as it did with 5w30/5w40/0w30/0w40/10w30/10w40/15w40/20w50/5w50/15w50 grades. Felt just a tad peppier, maybe 1.237HP gain at most. Has 225k on it.
 

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Just found a fantastic deal of some Elf 5W30 at 10€ per 5L jug, took 3. The specs are SL/CF, A5/B5, WSS-M2C 913-D (don't care about this one). It looks like a pretty stout oil to me with a TBN of 9.1 and high saps. Is the formulation of this type of oil closer to a ressource conserving US ILSAC type oil or the usual A3/B4? What HTHS to expect? @SR5 please don't hesite to chime in. ;)
Is this your oil?

 
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I used 0W-20 TGMO once in the Prius I maintain, it drank it like an alcoholic. I recently topped off the Rotella T6 MV in it with some left over Chevron Havoline ProDS 0W-30, about .6 quart. It all flashed off in 1300 miles.
 

SR5

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Not exactly but not far, don't know why they have so much oils that do the same thing... It is this one:

So, KV100 = 9.9 cSt for your oil.

According to J300, a 20 grade turns into a 30 grade at 9.3 cSt. So you can see how a Ford 913-D oil is alway at the very thin end of being a 5W30, more than most.

You wanted to try 5W20 in your car, think of this oil as a thick 5W20 with extra ZDDP. Sounds like it's very close to what you wanted to try.
 

OM605

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If i'm too scared to use it in my car it will end up in my girlfriend's little Citroen C2. But after all i have many examples of engines like mine being run only on ILSAC 5/10W30 and not burning a drop even at 300,000 km. The few UOAs i was able to find were fantastic.
 
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If i'm too scared to use it in my car it will end up in my girlfriend's little Citroen C2. But after all i have many examples of engines like mine being run only on ILSAC 5/10W30 and not burning a drop even at 300,000 km. The few UOAs i was able to find were fantastic.
If you’re too scared to do something why on earth would you do it?

And the UOA doesn’t tell you that it’s a good oil in and of itself. It tells you that it was a low wearing engine being operated under the specific conditions that were present prior to the UOA.
 
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What observations so far?
The Ranger didn't care outside of noisy lifters. It will get the 10w-40 with this Summer's OCI.
The F-150, an already noisy 4.9l tractor engine, was very noisy and seemed to lose power pulling a trailer against strong headwinds at highway speeds. 10w-40 seems a better fit (265,000 miles on the un-touched engine).
The 4Runner (275,000 miles on the un-touched engine) doesn't seem to care except one day when the wife, her car, got in and started it for the first time after sitting overnight. The engine made what sounded like a rod knock for about 10-15 seconds before it built oil pressure. It was parked in front of the garage and I had the door open and it caught my attention. She got out of the car and said "what the heck is that". I said I don't know but I think I have the wrong oil in it and it's getting changed.
My goal was increased fuel economy and I didn't notice any. Now we will see what the 10w-40 does. The F-150 and 4Runner are smoother and quieter on the 10w-40. Nothing scientific, just observations.
 
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