I have hardwood. Would prefer LVP.
Hardwood floors vs. LVP
- Thread starter dja4260
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3/4" nailed oak flooring has been a tradition in Chicago for many generations, people there have had kids and dogs all along, it can be refinished or boards replaced, keep the home climate controlled and boards less that 3.25" wide.
Bamboo is harder but usually cannot be refinished, especially the commercial 'stranded' grade which is also pitched as the hardest with impressive PSI stats.
LVP has become a global floor go to most are imported, shop by appearance, width, thickness and wear layer.
Bamboo is harder but usually cannot be refinished, especially the commercial 'stranded' grade which is also pitched as the hardest with impressive PSI stats.
LVP has become a global floor go to most are imported, shop by appearance, width, thickness and wear layer.
Couple more tips specific to your post...
Option A: White Oak can be knotty and knurly look at large example of what your buying before you buy it or at least buy a box and rack it up on your floor as a large sample, pre arrange it can be returned, also be aware because of Wht.Oaks nature you may find the product is loaded with short 9" stubs (undesirable). Prefinished is better beveled edged.
Option B: No floor is waterproof in that if the 'floating' product traps a large amount of liquid it will eventually mold and must, causing work to restore.
Imagine you took a picture of one of these planks, it has a unique pattern of grain, knots and texture then ask how often that exact board is repeated in a carton..1-9 (poor) 25-40 (good). Inquire about direct sunlight like at a glass patio door does the warranty cover plank separations? heaving? you probably should tint the lower part of the glass.
G/L
I've been in the flooring business for 42 years.
Nothing looks as good as solid plank Hardwood(not engineered crap)
LVP is so much better in terms of being almost indestructible.
If you go LVP look at a Shaw Cortec product thats at least 8 MM thick.
The LVP that I'm familiar with come 3.4 MM to 12MM thick.
Nothing looks as good as solid plank Hardwood(not engineered crap)
LVP is so much better in terms of being almost indestructible.
If you go LVP look at a Shaw Cortec product thats at least 8 MM thick.
The LVP that I'm familiar with come 3.4 MM to 12MM thick.
Thanks for the advice.
I'm looking to re-do my kitchen, which currently has 20 year old Pergo rustic red oak, I think about 10" wide planks. I'd like something similar looking, but in vinyl. I really like the way it looks and they don't make this one anymore.
In the few LVP brands I've checked, there are browns but not redish brown oak in wide planks.
Do you have any suggestions?
We tried 4 different types of LVP in the house. My wife didn't love any of them.
We're currently staring at a box of the product below in my kitchen. It's a "7mm+pad x 7.5 in. Natural Hickory Engineered Hardwood Flooring." 100% water proof SPC core, and wood real hardwood veneer. It's the same thickness is a high end LVP, and water proof up to 72 hours...
I hate that it's not 100% waterproof.
But, it's harder than an oak hardwood, it's planks all look different, and are different lengths, unlike LVP. The uniform LVP lengths and repeat patterns is what bothered us the most. This seems like a good compromise and most importantly, my wife loves it.
https://www.llflooring.com/p/aquase...ry-engineered-hardwood-flooring-10048942.html
We're currently staring at a box of the product below in my kitchen. It's a "7mm+pad x 7.5 in. Natural Hickory Engineered Hardwood Flooring." 100% water proof SPC core, and wood real hardwood veneer. It's the same thickness is a high end LVP, and water proof up to 72 hours...
I hate that it's not 100% waterproof.
But, it's harder than an oak hardwood, it's planks all look different, and are different lengths, unlike LVP. The uniform LVP lengths and repeat patterns is what bothered us the most. This seems like a good compromise and most importantly, my wife loves it.
https://www.llflooring.com/p/aquase...ry-engineered-hardwood-flooring-10048942.html
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When you install the LVP, you cut it to different lengths to stagger the joints. I used it to make a table top:
https://www.mannington.com/Residential/Adura-Vinyl-Plank/AduraMax/AduraMaxPlank/Acacia/MAX011
Had this installed about two years ago in Tiger’s Eye. The link I posted doesn't do justice to the red hues in the plank.
I also have Mannington Adura Max in my house. It’s a tough good looking floor.
Fine for a table top.
But this is a click together floating product.
You cant cut the tongue or groove off.
Then theres no click together.
I have pefinished Harwood that I've refinished -very hard to do as the factory finishes is very strong.
Pre finished never seals properly which leads to cupping/ dog urine/ moisture eholding
Non pre finished hardwood - that was covered with brown shag when I moved in (?!???!?!)
Pergo or LVP in 2 bedrooms and an entire upstairs area.
If I had to do them all over again Id do LVP.
Pre finished never seals properly which leads to cupping/ dog urine/ moisture eholding
Non pre finished hardwood - that was covered with brown shag when I moved in (?!???!?!)
Pergo or LVP in 2 bedrooms and an entire upstairs area.
If I had to do them all over again Id do LVP.
The cuts go against the wall.
Yes, I could have worded my post better. You only cut the end pieces to different lengths. I.E., you start the first course with a full length plank. The next course(s) start at random lengths so that you get staggered joints across the room, attempting to avoid a systematic brick pattern. It looks fine to me, but may not if you want true different lengths.
There are lots of image examples like this: https://secure.img1-fg.wfcdn.com/im....04%22+x+7.9mm+Oak+WPC+Luxury+Vinyl+Plank.jpg
Right, but if they're all the same lengths it won't take long to notice, many upscale LVP products will offer multiple widths and lengths up to 84"
That veneered hickory could be a real problem once it dries out, split/crack, 7mm is that the hickory or overall? China?
Well, that's exactly what I'm looking for. Thank you!
***Verified Reply - JeremyThank you for your interest Melissa! The product is 7 mm in inches this is 0.275591, the veneer is 1.2 mm.
***Verified Reply - JeremyThank you for your interest! The veneer thickness is 1.2mm. We do not recommend refinishing or sanding any of our factory finished products, this will void the warranty.
***Moisture Limits (Insitu RH) 55% (I'm guessing 35% min)
***Direct Sun Light mitigate
compromises...I'd make certain this LL dealer understands you want a strong warranty and expect him to help with any claim (they have a strong history otherwise, check him out), I'd have his guy do the work too, that Hickory is 1/20" maybe they've got it figured out, maybe not, I don't see a brand name.
Yeah, we're going to go with a different product. I simply don't trust this product to last and LL doesn't have a stellar history of top notch products. I think like most things in life, you get what you pay for...
Check out a good local indie flooring dealer, this LVP is popular they should have many brand name displays including Mannington, Armstrong, Congoleum, Cortec and others..with your kids and a dog tell the dealer a good product is required and you expect them to stand behind the product then YOU do what is necessary to enforce that warranty.
1.) Have the dealer acclimate it, install it and warranty his work.
2.) Clean it with the MFG not dealer recommended products (save receipts)
3.) Protect the flooring from direct UV and subsequent high heat
4.) Protect super heavy traffic lanes from abrasion with rugs (not foam backed)
5.) Have dealer recommended table and chair leg protection
6.) Protect from moisture at toilets, fridge, exterior doors
7.) Have the equipment present to enforce any R/H requirements
8.) Keep all receipts and verbal notes, promises in writing dated in a folder
9.) At the point of sale I'd go over these and ask if the dealer would add or subtract anything.
All common sense stuff that's easy to overlook but important here's why. Most flooring
has a ridiculously long warranty, especially considering you'll beat the snot out of it,
should your floor start falling apart and you make a claim the inspector will need to check these boxes
to approve a replacement, done this way you'll have little trouble or at least no out of pocket expenses
to replace for the length of the warranty.
1.) Have the dealer acclimate it, install it and warranty his work.
2.) Clean it with the MFG not dealer recommended products (save receipts)
3.) Protect the flooring from direct UV and subsequent high heat
4.) Protect super heavy traffic lanes from abrasion with rugs (not foam backed)
5.) Have dealer recommended table and chair leg protection
6.) Protect from moisture at toilets, fridge, exterior doors
7.) Have the equipment present to enforce any R/H requirements
8.) Keep all receipts and verbal notes, promises in writing dated in a folder
9.) At the point of sale I'd go over these and ask if the dealer would add or subtract anything.
All common sense stuff that's easy to overlook but important here's why. Most flooring
has a ridiculously long warranty, especially considering you'll beat the snot out of it,
should your floor start falling apart and you make a claim the inspector will need to check these boxes
to approve a replacement, done this way you'll have little trouble or at least no out of pocket expenses
to replace for the length of the warranty.
Sad to say those crazy long warranties from flooring manufacturer's are almost impossible to collect on.
I've been doing this for over forty years and rarely have I seen people collect on it.
They will wiggle out somehow and they are really good at it.
The company I work for does flooring for a huge national builder that has a huge contract with Mohawk for all it's flooring needs nationally and you would think Mohawk would be a bit forgiving and honor claims better then they do.
But it's the same old run around.
I have seen a couple times that Mohawk turns down a claim that everyone but them think is legit and the builder pays to have it replaced so as not to ruin their own reputation.
The dog's disposition is a wildcard here, flooring color and surface texture can make all the difference look to the dealer for advice. Once you've sorted out a selection, again, buy a box and rack it up where the dog will use it most...if it doesn't work you've saved a major headache if it does work use it or keep it as attic stock which is also advisable with a young family. If you just rush into this purchase your likely to make a mistake and be right back in the market 3-4 years down the road then without the aforementioned documents and maintenance routine no prayer for a successful warranty claim.
Let's see a detailed pic of your existing floor surface where the dog is let outdoors.
Let's see a detailed pic of your existing floor surface where the dog is let outdoors.
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