Hardie board siding

Joined
Mar 21, 2004
Messages
31,965
Location
Near the beach in Delaware
Are there any cons to Hardie board siding. The style that looks like cedar horizontal siding?

This is for a summer cottage that I want to avoid painting every so many years. And I am not a fan of vinyl siding.

I know you need to prime where you cut the Hardie board siding.

I like the look, the baked in color of Hardie board. Carpenter who will do some work is not a fan of it. But half the cottage is already Hardie board.
 
No cons that I know of. My neighbor just had his $1.4 M home resided with that stuff. In yellow, which is OK in Florida.
I'm pretty sure that it's termite and rot resistant. They also produce many different designs, some that look like shingles, etc.

WAY better that T111!
 
Going on 25 years with ours on the main house, no complaints except that an errant baseball can crack it, seemingly more vulnerable to that than wood. Otherwise, excellent stuff. We just did the new house with it, pre-painted.
 
My BiL would still be in his house if he had replaced a whole wall with Hardie. He had water damage in the old cheap siding of the garage/apartment. Only came up about 1/3 new HP.
Pine needles started the old siding on fire - burned down half the garage (was torn down and replaced last month) …
The Hardie plank stood proud …
 
Good product IMO. As far as maintenance, if you use a very good caulking and premium exterior paint you should be sorta maintenance free (besides washings) for a while.

It can be a little cumbersome to cut and work with, probably why your carpenter doesn't like it.
 
Good product IMO. As far as maintenance, if you use a very good caulking and premium exterior paint you should be sorta maintenance free (besides washings) for a while.

It can be a little cumbersome to cut and work with, probably why your carpenter doesn't like it.
The stuff comes prepainted.
 
I have it on my house, siding project about 4 years ago.

No cons for the overall look of the house and I am sure it will never need to be replaced.

A few thoughts:

Will the contractor follow the installation instructions? Mine did not. The seams where the siding pieces meet and not supposed to be caulked. There is supposed to be a specific material behind the joints. My contractor only used Tyvek and then caulked the joints.

Although it adds expense, I had the 55 year old sheathing removed, replaced the fiberglass between the studs, air sealed the wiring and outlet holes, added 1" foam board and installed new sheathing. This made a huge different in energy use and comfort. I was not surprised to see many stud bays improperly insulated.
 
I have it on my house, siding project about 4 years ago.

No cons for the overall look of the house and I am sure it will never need to be replaced.

A few thoughts:

Will the contractor follow the installation instructions? Mine did not. The seams where the siding pieces meet and not supposed to be caulked. There is supposed to be a specific material behind the joints. My contractor only used Tyvek and then caulked the joints.

Although it adds expense, I had the 55 year old sheathing removed, replaced the fiberglass between the studs, air sealed the wiring and outlet holes, added 1" foam board and installed new sheathing. This made a huge different in energy use and comfort. I was not surprised to see many stud bays improperly insulated.
Our cottage is 1904 with framing but not studs every 16". The siding is the sheathing. Will remove siding, fix any framing or rot issues then sheathing, Tyvek and siding. Not worried about energy efficiency too much. It's summer only.

I hear you need to prime any Hardie board you cut.
 
Our cottage is 1904 with framing but not studs every 16". The siding is the sheathing. Will remove siding, fix any framing or rot issues then sheathing, Tyvek and siding. Not worried about energy efficiency too much. It's summer only.

I hear you need to prime any Hardie board you cut.
Sounds like you are talking about "balloon construction" . If that's the case, be sure to install some fire breaks when you expose that framing.
 
Will the contractor follow the installation instructions? Mine did not. The seams where the siding pieces meet and not supposed to be caulked. There is supposed to be a specific material behind the joints. My contractor only used Tyvek and then caulked the joints.

Good point.
https://valiantexteriors.com/butt-joint-flashing-for-fiber-siding/

1756062049865.webp
 
I have the standard paintable stuff. I don't know of any options that are better honestly - no rot, no termites. I would be willing to try the pre-painted if they have your color. I presume it could be painted eventually if needed?
 
Are there any cons to Hardie board siding. The style that looks like cedar horizontal siding?

This is for a summer cottage that I want to avoid painting every so many years. And I am not a fan of vinyl siding.

I know you need to prime where you cut the Hardie board siding.

I like the look, the baked in color of Hardie board. Carpenter who will do some work is not a fan of it. But half the cottage is already Hardie board.
Watch video at bottom of web page- compares Hardie board against LP Smart Side,was surprised LP siding has fewer negatives than Hardie siding.
https://lpcorp.com/products/siding-trim/why-lp-smartside/competition/engineered-wood-vs-fiber-cement
 
We installed Hardie board siding on our previous house, 15 years before we sold and moved. It still looked like new, excellent product. It came with a factory applied finish, never had to touch it up. The finish was warrantied for 25 years (at that time).
Lots of warnings on the packaging about wearing respiratory protection when cutting it, the dust is hard on the lungs.
 
Watch video at bottom of web page- compares Hardie board against LP Smart Side,was surprised LP siding has fewer negatives than Hardie siding.
https://lpcorp.com/products/siding-trim/why-lp-smartside/competition/engineered-wood-vs-fiber-cement
LP? They sell the stuff. And have ruined tons of homes. I'm not making that one up.

https://todayshomeowner.com/smart-home/guides/lp-smartside-siding-problems/

I say the only drawbacks of cement siding may be it's kinda brittle and it's a little tough to make a perfect match with a patch/fix. Maybe a bit harder to drill, but not a huge issue.

I'll take it over LP junk any day.

Cedar I like, but cedar in direct sun just doesn't like it. Cement board? Doesn't care!
 
LP? They sell the stuff. And have ruined tons of homes. I'm not making that one up.

https://todayshomeowner.com/smart-home/guides/lp-smartside-siding-problems/

I say the only drawbacks of cement siding may be it's kinda brittle and it's a little tough to make a perfect match with a patch/fix. Maybe a bit harder to drill, but not a huge issue.

I'll take it over LP junk any day.

Cedar I like, but cedar in direct sun just doesn't like it. Cement board? Doesn't care!
That was 20 some years ago they reformulated product totally-- 50year warranty

The secret to LP SmartSide Trim & Siding’s reputation as the most durable wood siding is LP’s proprietary SmartGuard® manufacturing process. It ensures that every strand of wood is treated with a carefully formulated mix of resins, waxes, and zinc borate and finished with an overlay to offer complete protection against hail, moisture, termites and fungal decay.
Zinc Borate

This naturally derived additive helps engineered wood resist damage from termites and fungal decay.
Resins

Engineered wood stands up to impact and survives freeze/thaw cycles due to resins that offer incredible strength.
Waxes

Designed to resist moisture, waxes coat each strand to offer enhanced durability in humid environments.
Overlay

This final element of protection resists moisture intrusion, providing a durable base for a finished look.
 
That was 20 some years ago they reformulated product totally-- 50year warranty

The secret to LP SmartSide Trim & Siding’s reputation as the most durable wood siding is LP’s proprietary SmartGuard® manufacturing process. It ensures that every strand of wood is treated with a carefully formulated mix of resins, waxes, and zinc borate and finished with an overlay to offer complete protection against hail, moisture, termites and fungal decay.
Zinc Borate

This naturally derived additive helps engineered wood resist damage from termites and fungal decay.
Resins

Engineered wood stands up to impact and survives freeze/thaw cycles due to resins that offer incredible strength.
Waxes

Designed to resist moisture, waxes coat each strand to offer enhanced durability in humid environments.
Overlay

This final element of protection resists moisture intrusion, providing a durable base for a finished look.
Maybe better, BUTT I have ZERO trust.
 
Used Hardie board on a section of my house. Cut it with a standard carbide blade in a miter saw. Predrilled the attachment screw holes. Didn't have a nail gun, and cracked a couple of early boards, thus predrilled the rest. The boards I used came pre primed, but not pre painted.
 
Back
Top Bottom