The Nippon filter mentioned by the original poster should have a torque rating and a series of numbers (1-7) evenly spaced around the filter (at least the ones made for Honda do). The torque rating is for those using a torque wrench. If you do not have one, the instructions state to spin the filter on until the gasket meets the pan surface. Then, turn the filter until 5 of the 7 numbers pass - you now have the right torque.
Hand tight filter crowd might want to check their filters for winter.
- Thread starter Hootbro
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I'm a big guy with big hands, and I usually wear pretty grippy latex gloves when I do an oil change. I'm always afraid I'll over-torque the filter by hand . . . but so far no problems . . . I try to be gentle.
Oh yes, the PureOne filter gasket is Teflon coated. It's really easy to (over)tighten and remove. If any filter's gasket is oiled, it goes on and comes off just fine though.
The only rubber gaskets that frequently leak in the bitter cold seem to be the ones on plastic radiator tanks . . . no way to tighten those.
Oh yes, the PureOne filter gasket is Teflon coated. It's really easy to (over)tighten and remove. If any filter's gasket is oiled, it goes on and comes off just fine though.
The only rubber gaskets that frequently leak in the bitter cold seem to be the ones on plastic radiator tanks . . . no way to tighten those.
As tight as a greasy hand will make it. Never had a problem.
I'm another hand tighten-only dude. The last few cars I've worked on allow me get a pretty good grip on the filter and I hand tighten as much as I can ... usually 3/4 to 1 full turn after the gasket makes contact with the base.
I had one loosen on me about 10 years ago but I wasn't tightening them as much back then.
I usually get them off by hand as well ... but have a cap wrench handy in case it's needed.
--- Bror Jace
I had one loosen on me about 10 years ago but I wasn't tightening them as much back then.
I usually get them off by hand as well ... but have a cap wrench handy in case it's needed.
--- Bror Jace
Quote by mechtech: "I've done a jillion oil changes.
With spin on filters, I make sure the surface is clean, oil the gasket, and tighten 3/4 of a turn past 'zero', when the gasket first touches the mating surface.
Never had a problem arise. "
I agree. Its worked for me for 40+ years.
With spin on filters, I make sure the surface is clean, oil the gasket, and tighten 3/4 of a turn past 'zero', when the gasket first touches the mating surface.
Never had a problem arise. "
I agree. Its worked for me for 40+ years.
Me too, only about 14 years though!
I have only ever hand tightened filters on every single car i've ever done an oil change on (83 Grand Prix, 86 Chevy Caprice, 87 Olds Cutlass Supreme, 86 Olds 98, 99 Olds Alero, 78 Chevy 1/2 ton truck, 98 GMC Safari, maybe forgetting others), never ever had an oil filter come loose. Have had trouble getting them off sometimes even when the last oil change was done by me and hand tightened. Any time I get an oil change done by someone else its a b(^$*ch to get the filter off after because they use a wrench and overtighten the #%^*&*%$ filter. Wrenches are meant to get the filter off, not tighten it (unless its a car that has a really hard to reach oil filter? never seen one but not to say they don't exist) My cars both have the one exhaust pipe running right next to the oil filter so getting it off is sometimes an issue, but getting it on is never ever a problem. ALWAYS ALWAYS oil the gasket before putting the filter on. And if its a filter that mounts straight up, take the extra minute and fill it with oil before installing it, unless you dont GIVE A #$%**% about your engine!
Regarding prefilling the filter I do that with most vehicles. On a 97 GM van with the 6.5TD engine if I don't fill the filter and I put it on empty the oil pressure will build up in about 5 seconds and everything is fine. If I fill the filter up the oil pump gets airlocked and I get zero pressure and I have to loosen the filter about a turn and a half before the pump starts pumping again. Funny thing is this started happening only after about 80000mi on the van. It has 230000mi on it now and is running very well. Nice engine!
"One plus for the cold oil change is that the filter and block should be the same temperature"
...after a long drain, even a hot change should cool sufficuent for proper mating.
I wonder if the primitive method of spreading oil on the gasket with a finger could be replaced with some lube spray...like teflon or whatever.
...after a long drain, even a hot change should cool sufficuent for proper mating.
I wonder if the primitive method of spreading oil on the gasket with a finger could be replaced with some lube spray...like teflon or whatever.
No need to do anything more than hand tighten, unless you are really weak and have greasy hands. I would say that even 1/2 turn after surfaces meet would be enough. 2/3 turn is for sure enough. However, I usually put mine on probably about 3/4 just so that I never have to think twice about whether or not it might loosen or something.
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