Had my Ranger rustproofed with Krown

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Age is starting to catchup with my 2003 Ranger. While the body is clean and the truck overall is fairly rust free, I had some rust on the cab corners that perforated. After having new metal put in and repaired professionally, I wanted to do something to prolong the life of the body of the truck. After doing some research, the only option that I could find that seemed viable was Krown. After searching for franchisees that were not in Canada, I ended up today at Gus's Garage in Versailles, Ohio. Met with Jon Snyder, the owner. He is a great guy who not only encouraged me to go to his off site location and watch the process, but explained it as well. Anyone interested in having Krown applied, should check out his website:

http://www.gussgarage.com/

According to Jon, he saw a lot of vehicles coming in with rust damage, and was interested in offering a quality product that would counter rust. He researched products and discovered Krown, and was one of the first franchises in the US. He certainly is knowledgeable about his product, is very professional, and gives great customer service. He certainly merits a look from anyone looking for rustproofing in the general area.
 
A Krown franchise opened up real close to me a year or so ago. I know I've been tempted to bite a few times.

Did they spray the gooey stuff all over your engine/engine bay? That's one reason why I've shied away. I like a clean engine, not a sticky one.
 
Originally Posted By: JTK
A Krown franchise opened up real close to me a year or so ago. I know I've been tempted to bite a few times.

Did they spray the gooey stuff all over your engine/engine bay? That's one reason why I've shied away. I like a clean engine, not a sticky one.



He did inside of fenders, hood and brace in front of engine. He did not spray the engine, but there was probably some over spray.
 
Originally Posted By: Oil Changer
How much did it cost?


$150. out the door for small pickups. ($9 of that was a can of Krown spray that I purchased in addition to the rustproofing.)
 
Did he take off the wheels or wheel well liners? Remove any other cover?

Did they clean the underneath first?

I assume they drilled holes in the tailgate and doors?

Was the stuff they sprayed into cavities the same stuff they sprayed underneath? (Same consistency?)
 
Did they wash the undercarriage out before applying the Krown? I saw something on the video about that. Wish I could find somewhere close to me though.
 
It's $99.00 to do my Uplander at the local Krown and I ask them not to be messy under the hood. They aren't.
The undercarriage is washed, taillights removed etc ... good job.
I park the van in a nearby public lot for a couple of days .. it will drip and weep for weeks after.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
Did he take off the wheels or wheel well liners? Remove any other cover?

Did they clean the underneath first?

I assume they drilled holes in the tailgate and doors?

Was the stuff they sprayed into cavities the same stuff they sprayed underneath? (Same consistency?)


1. Did not take off wheels. He moved liners (very easy on the truck.) Removed rear taillights and shot through the holes

2. 2 holes in door sills, 1 in each door. Used existing holes in tailgate and wherever else possible. Appreciated the fact that he was not drill crazy..

3. Yes. Same consistency. Did not spare the material. Have it oozing out already (and it isn't even warm here.)

4. Yes. underneath was power washed.
 
Originally Posted By: satinsilver
Did they wash the undercarriage out before applying the Krown? I saw something on the video about that. Wish I could find somewhere close to me though.


Yes, it was cleaned. He said that other Ohio location was in Akron/Canton area.
I drove 88 miles/ each way to have this done. He has repeat customers from Chicago.
 
After the first treatment and with dirt clinging to the oil, I would really avoid washing the underside prior to treatment. Except to get rid of big chunks of mud and salt.
Believe it or not, but dirt actually helps the product to stay on the panels instead of being washed off.
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
After the first treatment and with dirt clinging to the oil, I would really avoid washing the underside prior to treatment. Except to get rid of big chunks of mud and salt.
Believe it or not, but dirt actually helps the product to stay on the panels instead of being washed off.


He did the salt wash treatment to neutralize salt on the truck. (correction: this was the cleaning underneath, getting my terms a little confused.) He recommended not washing underneath for about a month. If I knew where there was a real dusty gravel road, I'd go take a ride right now.
 
Originally Posted By: Tdbo
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
After the first treatment and with dirt clinging to the oil, I would really avoid washing the underside prior to treatment. Except to get rid of big chunks of mud and salt.
Believe it or not, but dirt actually helps the product to stay on the panels instead of being washed off.


He did the salt wash treatment to neutralize salt on the truck. He recommended not washing underneath for about a month. If I knew where there was a real dusty gravel road, I'd go take a ride right now.


My dirt road, my dirt drive!
 
I have had both of my vehicles done with CarWell which is similar or identical to Krown. On the way to the place I stop at an automatic car wash with undercarriage spray and have my vehicle done. The place is a little over 1 hour away so its dry when I get there. After the treatment, I leave it parked at home for a week or two, driving the other vehicle. It does drip a little onto my item 4 parking area.

I looked at the video that was posted a week or two ago of rustproofing done in Denmark and wish CarWell would take more of my vehicle apart (wheels and wheel well liners) like they do in Denmark.
 
I disassemble most of the underbody panels on both vehicles when shooting them with Fluid Film. I know, it's not the same as Krown. Considering the areas I lived/live it is FF or nothing, I'll take apart my cars to shoot them with something that will do some protection instead of doing nothing at all.
 
I bought a case of the aerosol cans back in 2002 and do it myself, not to the extent of a full treatment by Krown, but it certainly helps. Back then it was known as KL 73 made by Krown Industrial of Ontario. I think I bought it from a Caterpillar dealer, the only place I could find it.


___________________________________________
2008 Lexus RX 350 81,000 miles
1998 Lexus SC300 144,000 miles
 
Originally Posted By: sciphi
I disassemble most of the underbody panels on both vehicles when shooting them with Fluid Film. I know, it's not the same as Krown. Considering the areas I lived/live it is FF or nothing, I'll take apart my cars to shoot them with something that will do some protection instead of doing nothing at all.


How many cans does it take to do a car?
 
Originally Posted By: Tdbo
Originally Posted By: sciphi
I disassemble most of the underbody panels on both vehicles when shooting them with Fluid Film. I know, it's not the same as Krown. Considering the areas I lived/live it is FF or nothing, I'll take apart my cars to shoot them with something that will do some protection instead of doing nothing at all.


How many cans does it take to do a car?


About 4 cans per car. Think of it as a can per wheel and surrounding areas. That's also getting inside the doors and rocker panels as well as the underside of the car. Each car takes about 1.5 hours to do now that I know how to apply it and the tricks for removing the plastic wheel well liners/underbody panels.
 
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