Good Source for Flexible Cables and Lugs/Terminals?

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Jan 23, 2013
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My 1987 Toyota 4Runner with a 22RE needs new cables. Planning on doing the "Big 5". Alternator to the battery positive, battery positive to the starter, battery positive to fuse block, battery ground to body, body ground to frame and the engine to body ground.

I plan to use #2 gauge wire. Plenty good enough. There are kits out there specific for the 4Runner but I want to make it on my own to fine tune the cable routing. I'd rather not buy a kit and have to cut it up to make it work.

Anyone have a good source for good quality flexible wire and high quality cable lugs and terminals? Ideally USA made. Thanks!
 
Certainly not the most cost-effective solution, but when I did something similar but not as extensive, I went to West Marine. Being marine focused, their products are better than most off-the-shelf stores and for what I did, I wanted to be able to look at the lugs, terminal blocks, etc. before I bought. That said, I have become cynical towards most of the aftermarket which drives me to (generally costlier) places like WM, Dealers, etc. YMMV....
 
Car audio OFC cable or welding cable.

USA Made very food quality and flexible.

EB Flex
Windy Nation
GP Car Audio

KnuKonceptz makes very good cable, but it is imported.
 
My 1987 Toyota 4Runner with a 22RE needs new cables. Planning on doing the "Big 5". Alternator to the battery positive, battery positive to the starter, battery positive to fuse block, battery ground to body, body ground to frame and the engine to body ground.

I plan to use #2 gauge wire. Plenty good enough. There are kits out there specific for the 4Runner but I want to make it on my own to fine tune the cable routing. I'd rather not buy a kit and have to cut it up to make it work.

Anyone have a good source for good quality flexible wire and high quality cable lugs and terminals? Ideally USA made. Thanks!
GP audio but IDK if the make a 2Ga, I know they make 4 and 0 though.
A crimp tool will be necessary and I would coat the cable ends in No-Ox-Id before crimping the lugs on.
 
I was looking into this same type of things for my boat. There's two main supplies that a lot of people use for boats, I'm sure they would apply here too. The first I like more.

BatteryCablesUSA
CustomCableUSA

I used Battery Cables USA for the majority of the heavy cables in my RV solar install. Excellent cables and they are fast. They do a great job putting on connectors as well.

This is just battery jumpers and the main leads to the distribution/shunt.

4/0 and 2/0

1769031990615.webp
 
Thanks guys! Battery Cables USA seems to have all the stuff I want, including a variety of lugs and battery terminals.

I'll probably get a hydraulic cable crimper from Harbor Freight to crimp the ends.
 
Thanks guys! Battery Cables USA seems to have all the stuff I want, including a variety of lugs and battery terminals.

I'll probably get a hydraulic cable crimper from Harbor Freight to crimp the ends.
If you want to save some money, Amazon has pretty much the same crimper for half the price. I had the Pittsburgh one and it wasn't anything special and honestly overpriced. The price you'll save could probably pay for all the crimps and heat shrink.

Crimper Here
 
I think that if you make your own cables, technique is going to be key as opposed to the brand of wire. If you can solder, that will be light years ahead of just crimping.

I suggest copper end terminals

You should be able to get terminals from any auto part store, and wire from really anywhere.
 
Before jumping on the wire, look at this stuff, I use it for every cable, it is fine stand marine cable meaning much more flexible and dissipates heat quicker, a much better cable than 36 strand. You also want tinned copper lugs not pure copper, pure copper corrodes tinned does not. The AC/DC site is a bit buggered but if you use the search box it is a little easier.

https://acdcwire.com/products/2-awg...-sold-per-ft-black-red?variant=41231876718682
 
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