Good reliable small car?

Status
Not open for further replies.
quote:

Originally posted by cousincletus:
I have a Chevy Cavalier and it has been problem free for over two years. The last Cavalier (1993) went 120,000 mostly city miles while I had it. It was still running well. A GM drivetrain is hard to beat. You rarely ever have the typical Japanese problems like failed transmissions and C/V boots, and parts are lots cheaper than imported parts and more available. In addition, you can get a newer model cheaper. Just do the maintenance and you'll have very few problems. Dodge Neon is another good choice. BTW, my '02 Cavalier (2200 OHV engine with 5 speed) gets no less than 30 mpg and on the highway gets close to 40.
cheers.gif


I don't know what you are talking about? I have never heard of problems with Japanese transmissions. Are you talking about an isolated problem with Honda? C/V boots are typical wear items and tear. As far as the Japanese parts being more expensive thats true but they are high quality and very rarely need to be replaced. You can get aftermarket parts cheaper but they are of less quality. The availability of parts is a non issue, next day on most if its not in stock.

I rented a Cavalier for 2 days and couldn't wait to bring it back!

Daily Drives:
-2003 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner XtraCab, 2.7 Liter , Mobil1 Synthetic SS 5W-30.
ODO 7200 Miles.
-1995 Toyota 4-Runner 3.0 V6, Mobil1 Synthetic SS 10W-30.
ODO 83300 Miles.
http://community.webshots.com/user/amkeer
 
quote:

Originally posted by Amkeer:
snip... C/V boots are typical wear items and tear. snip...

I had an 81 Phoenix, 90 Beretta, and 92 Grand Am all in the 200K, 10 year range, and an 02 Cavalier with 35K. I only had 2 CV boots go the whole time. I don't think CV boots are a typical wear item. I had a big problem with rear wheel bearings on the Grand Am. Perhaps I paid for buying cheap parts at Advance Auto.
 
try to find as new (95&newer/2or4 door)as possible 4cyl Geo Metro/Suzuki Swift with a 5speed. Their trade in value has sucked since being they quite building them in 01(paid $2800 for #7/01 last year w40thou) which means a cheap buying price. They are also getting harder to find being the ones with them drive the wheels off, then dump them. 42/44 all around mpg and easy to work on if need be considering it too be front wheel drive. timing belt is even EASY!! Am on #5&7 since 1987(#4 96 still running and using NO oil w/240+thou on it). The 3cyl ones are reliable but power wise very lacking (along with not getting the mileage they used to be know for/not much better than 44mpg) after owning the 4cyl versions (only55hp/4cyl70to79hp). 95 on 4door verisons are 4cyl onlys/stay away from the automatic's, the mileage isn't that good-36hiway at best.
 
Any problems with Japanese transmissions would be news to me and my extended family which has a long history of using Japanese automobiles. This includes Hondas, Mitsubishi and Nissan. These were all well over 200k miles when sold and there never was a transmission problem in the whole bunch. I replaced one pair of CV boots myself and that was very cheaply and well done. None of the others wore out. Now, I could go way back before we all went to the Japanese makes and that is a whole different story. Not for us again.
 
A 2002 Camry for $3700 dollars!!!! If you can swingit get it!!! The first thing you want to do is auto-rx that transmission and then get it flushed at local dealer! THe engine is lightly broken in! If the fluid is changed regularly the Toyota automatics tend to last 300,000 miles right along with the engine!

I have an 2003 and I paid 17,000 for it or should say I am paying $17,000 for it!

P.S. If you decide not to get it send my a PM with how I can contact this gentelman. I would be inteested in it!
 
Yeah, I've decided to get it "when" it becomes available.

I am either gonna keep it, or sell it and make a real good profit. It kbb's "good" condition for about $7k.

Thanks guys.
 
The CV boots get torn for miscellaneous reasons such as running over something or the clamps slip and they end up getting contaminated. In any case I hate CV boots! None of my vehicles have them so I don't have to worry about them.
 
Scooby, SOmetimes a bird in the hand is worth two in the bush! I would recommend that you thank good for this stroke of generiosity and networking and accept it as a much needed gift!

I have never thought a gift should be fliped! The opertunity cost to find yet another vechile that is going to be reliable on short notice is going to be a crap shoot at best! SO even if you turn a profit you are still right back wear you started from but with a few more dollars in your pocket!

Just think about!
 
the mazda protege is an excellent car. once you drive one, if you are an enthusist at all, you will not want to go back and look/drive the disconnected feeing corrola or civic. mazdas are excellent "feeling" cars. i have a protege5 myself and would recommend it to anyone who wants a small car. the protege line is being replced by the "3" line which has quite a few upgrades. they are not recommended if you want a soft easy ride though, they are all "sporty" so they are a bit firm.
 
quote:

Originally posted by labman:

quote:

Originally posted by Amkeer:
snip... C/V boots are typical wear items and tear. snip...

I had an 81 Phoenix, 90 Beretta, and 92 Grand Am all in the 200K, 10 year range, and an 02 Cavalier with 35K. I only had 2 CV boots go the whole time. I don't think CV boots are a typical wear item.


I completely agree. For some reason American CV-boots are a lot tougher and rarely fail. It must be the materials...
 
Another vote for the Camry. A cautionary note on the Subaru Loyale- one of the timing belts on my aunt's 96 Loyale broke every 56k miles. It was scheduled for routine replacement at 60k.
 
Agree with J.B. You have a good inside deal don't sell for greeds sake. Otherwise you'll be lookin for advice in a month or 2 and ya may not be so lucky next time.
banghead.gif
 
You have alot of choices here, I like my 87 Honda
accord...just 170k miles and in great shape. If you drive alot and make a mental tally
of "sightings", which means that they are in service and not dead, you'll find more older accords/civics and toyota corolla/camrys and nissan sentras/maximas than any domestics. This is
true because they make cars parts to last, and that's why they cost more,...besides taxes of course. Domestics are getting better, longer tuneup intervals (questionable to me), but Ford/GM
make quite a profit on service and parts. This is
only true because so many Americans neglect their cars and "forget" to do routine maintenance. My 2cents.
 
Yes, there are lots of choices and lots of varying philosophies. 1./ Go to Consumer Reports and read the wonderful reports on Toyotas, Hondas, Lexus, and Infinities. 2./ Buy a 94-96 Chevy Caprice with only 60k on it owned by the proverbial lil old lady. Good, reliable and small? Okay, 2 out of 3 isn't bad. The big V8 only gets 20-23 mpg on the highway, but the maintenance parts are plentiful and inexpensive. Rear wheel drive so it is easy to work on. uses shocks, not strut$, Universal joints, not CV joint$, and so on. in the long run, you'll save.
 
consumer reports is very flawed.
they rated the kia sephia as like THE worst car one year, and during that same year rated the protege one of the best.

how is this possible seeing as they are the same car?

i think the driver's habits have alot to do with it. the average person who buys a kia is probably going to beat on the thing.
 
Anything with the 3.8 and 3.3l engine AND auto with OD. Usually mid-size, but will get you 30 mpg plus on the interstate.
 
I vote for the 1991-2002 Escort sedan and 1991-1999 wagon plus the Mercury Tracer clones. I have a '97 Escort wagon with 241K miles, and it's been a trouper. Aside from normal maintenance and little items such as light bulbs, here's a list of what has been replaced that had to be replaced:

1 - water pump (just replaced the second one as it had more miles on it than the original did, but it turned out to be still good)
1 - front oil seal (comment above applies here too)
1 - clutch pack with seals including rear main engine oil seal
1 - extra throwout bearing (failed by itself and clutch pack replaced then too while car was apart)
2 - transaxle seals where halfshafts enter case
1 - evaporative emissions canister valve, which caused "Check Engine" light to come on at about 190K miles
1 - shield installed in 2003 recall of 1997 Escorts
all - inner and outer tie rod ends and ball joints; all gradually failed at about ~200K
1 - alternator
1 - windshield washer nozzle
set - front brake pads
all - wheel bearings (as precaution only at 156K)
both - halfshafts (as precaution at 200K when throwout bearing was replaced with clutch pack)

And that's really it.

Secrets: Red Line oil and transaxle fluid, Motorcraft (usually) oil filters, K & N air filter with aftermarket intake system, 30K coolant changes with Red Line Water Wetter, plus proactive maintenance including timing belt changes each 60K.

Radiator, fuel injectors, electronics, etc., are original. Only last month did I change the valve cover gasket for the first time.

A big advantage here is the ready availability and relatively low price of most parts. Hondas and other Japanese cars are great until you begin needing parts, then it's time to turn around and bend over--after you wait and wait and wait . . .

I should also note that this car has had two impacts with deer.

For financial reasons I must keep this Escort another 2-1/2 years. Knock on wood, I think it'll make it.

Unfortunately, I agree with the previous comment that the Focus doesn't seem to be as reliable a car. The upcoming diesel version should be interesting, though . . .

[ March 05, 2004, 11:18 AM: Message edited by: ekrampitzjr ]
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top