I think the ol' Corolla is on her last legs...

[VersatileGuy]

Most likely it was just worn solenoid contacts. R&R the contacts and possibly the plunger for less than $30.00, and it would have been good to go.

The solenoid is sealed and "not serviceable" in this gen Corolla and checking the brushes is also necessary given the time that has passed. Chances are the brushes are basically worn out gone and would require replacement along with the solenoid. Starter failures are sudden and not in advance, so if the mechanic does not have the brush assembly and solenoid on hand, the mech can't do this slower and more involved work(for no difference in pay if he's flat rate) until the parts arrive.


It is clear to me that the OP is not a wrench turner.

 

[02SE]

The solenoid is sealed and "not serviceable" in this gen Corolla and checking the brushes is also necessary given the time that has passed. Chances are the brushes are basically worn out gone and would require replacement along with the solenoid. Starter failures are sudden and not in advance, so if the mechanic does not have the brush assembly and solenoid on hand, the mech can't do this slower and more involved work(for no difference in pay if he's flat rate) until the parts arrive.


It is clear to me that the OP is not a wrench turner.

Yes, the solenoid unit is crimped closed. That doesn't mean it's not serviceable. It depends on ones ingenuity, and time available. I would argue that the mechanic likely could have evaluated the parts, and replaced what needed to be replaced. However, in today's parts-changer world, replacing the entire starter unit saves time, and maximizes profit.

I'm also willing to bet it got a rebuilt starter, not a new OEM.

The OP is definitely not a wrench turner. But that's okay. I'm sure he can do things that are not in some wrench turners skillset.

 

[VersatileGuy]

Yes, the solenoid unit is crimped closed. That doesn't mean it's not serviceable. It depends on ones ingenuity, and time available. I would argue that the mechanic likely could have evaluated the parts, and replaced what needed to be replaced. However, in today's parts-changer world, replacing the entire starter unit saves time, and maximizes profit.

I'm also willing to bet it got a rebuilt starter, not a new OEM.

The OP is definitely not a wrench turner. But that's okay. I'm sure he can do things that are not in some wrench turners skillset.

I've seen the DIY video that shows the solenoid repair. It's a process fraught with potential error during the process. Maybe someone cuts too far with the angle grinder or drills the hole too low(which the guy does on one). Along with taking a long time just to separate the metal case from the internal body, it's just not worth the energy and time because the repairer still needs to have a backup solenoid in case he screws up.


If the starter is older, corrosion might have seized up the solenoid screws and that means applying and waiting for penetrating oil, along with expensive screwdrivers or an impact driver, with the starter clamped on a sturdy vice to remove the screws without stripping.

I don't sympathize with markups and the like, but sometimes, the reasons for the markups make sense. The job to swap a starter on a 9th gen Corollla shouldn't take more than 30 minutes for a pro. Two bolts for the starter, two wire connectors, removing the radiator fan assembly for space, making sure the computer relearns after disconnecting the battery,

I just did my own brush swap and solenoid swap just last weekend. It took a bit of time, about 90 minutes to two hours.

 

[NormanBuntz]

If you're still looking, try this list of manual hatchbacks less than $11,000 and within 100 miles of Columbus, OH. The link DOES work. Check out the Honda Fit in Vermilion, OH.

Autotrader - page unavailable

 

[atikovi]

Most cars, if not all, with 200K will have failed motor mounts and thus won't pass a safety inspection without paying some fees to a mechanic for the work. There's usually at least one mount that's a pain to remove. And if one needs replacing, it is best to replace all of them. But furthermore, if you are planning to keep the used 200k car long term, then you want the mechanic to install OEM grade motor mounts.

Valve cover gaskets are also unlikely to have been replaced for a 200k car, and that means oil could be pissing out into the engine bay and spark plug tubes and over the cam- and crankshaft position sensors. Again, if not DIYing, another few hundred to a thousand. I got stranded by a by crank position sensor on a 250k car that was pissing oil. A 1MZ-FE camry.

Motor mounts and VC gaskets are small potatoes in overall scheme of buying used cars and they could just as well be bad at 100,000 miles. Certainly DIY jobs in most cases.

 

[VersatileGuy]

With respect, this thread is one about reliable vehicles which might possibly go three or four hundred thousand miles. No Ford Fusion has earned its place in this discussion. Maybe a Crown Vic, although that is not really what the OP is going for.

I’ve seen several with 300k. Then again after 15 years in their dealership system, I’ve just seen a lot of Fords.

But if everyone wants to keep pushing the only Honda/Toyota can be reliable narrative, it will keep the cost down on reliable vehicles from other makes. That was the story of the Escort ZX2 as well. Those things would run forever and sold used for $500 when a Camry, Corolla or Civic was $2000.

The other component of "reliability" is the cost and time to restore function. For a 9th gen Toyota Corolla, swapping lamps or parts is often relatively easier compared to another manufacturer. A headlamp just needs a twist out of its socket. The alternator is in the front with the serpentine belt. Needs a breaker bar and 17mm to release the tensioner, and a 12mm and 14mm fastener remove to free the alternator. Corrosion is seemingly not as rapid where I'm at. You don't need to break out torches to loosen bolts.

Fords are usually built with a reliable component somwhere complemented with some unreliable component elsewhere, buried in a mountain of fasteners. It is this tendency that tanks their value as used cars.

 

[VersatileGuy]

Motor mounts and VC gaskets are small potatoes in overall scheme of buying used cars and they could just as well be bad at 100,000 miles. Certainly DIY jobs in most cases.

The point is the probability of a failed motor mount on a 200k or more with no service history of the mounts is essentially 100% and one should go in assuming that all of the motor mounts require service. For a 100k car, that requires the visual inspection of whether the engine is jerking around upon shifting the transmission.

For the two used Toyotas that I have check the mounts, they always have three easier ones and one troublesome one. The 1ZZ-FE has one passenger, one front, and one transmission mount that fairly simple. The last is in the back and someone has to go under a nasty worn out underside to free up the last one. The V6 1MZ-FE also has a brutal motor mount to deal with, so much so that I didn't bother with it and just took advantage of my state allowing "Historic" vehicles.

OP happens to be in a state that does not require safety inspections but nevertheless, failed motor mounts can eventually cause issues.

Valve cover gaskets that fail accelerate failure of everything the oil touches in the engine bay, including sensors like the crank and camshaft position sensors, evenutally resulting in getting stranded.

 

[atikovi]

The point is the probability of a failed motor mount on a 200k or more with no service history of the mounts is essentially 100% and one should go in assuming that all of the motor mounts require service.

The mounts on the 200K+ Corolla I just bought seem fine. The thought of motor mounts never crossed my mind. I was more concerned about the engine or transmission, but they turned out to be fine as well.