Good aftermarket speakers - 6.5 inch using factory headunit?

I have some "visual" work to do with it... maybe re carpet the exterior of the box and do something with the Amp / wires in trunk area... But it really hits hard with no light dimming or anything electrical related (I did not want to go too many watts for fear of blowing out alternator, battery and/or electrical system) and at end of day was able to keep the factory headunit. It's very deceiving now :LOL: Im sad that I "waited" so long to do this... im near mid life bumping hard. :oops::unsure:
I have no neighbors who are close enough to hear the bass and am very courteous of turning down/off when arriving to destination areas.. I was even doing that with the kicker o_O🙏

I took the "gamble" on a used subwoofer (after that first little 10 inch kicker gave me a taste of bass) and a new JL audio amp...

Looking back the 10 inch Kicker was NOT a bad subwoofer and was a good place to get my feet wet for a few days.... it did complement the low end & made it sound like a OEM factory premium system.. but was lacking the "hit" a larger box/sub/watts have. It sounded good but I felt like I was driving that little kicker hard most of the time though not realizing it.

Now it's the polar opposite... There is more bass than speaker if I wanted it that way. I adjusted the gain to a very reasonable level something like 15-20%. I did touch 40% just to see what it's capable of and my kia DID NOT approve. Im sure I would blow out near every bulb in the vehicle if I were to keep it there but it nice to have some "bass cushion" as in have more if need than maxing out something small

The first subwoofer I ever bought (all I could afford back in those years) was a Kicker by Stillwater Designs. It was a bass box with an 8" subwoofer! lol.. Talk about not enough bass! Powered by an Alpine 80x1 amp! Yup starting out, then graduated (in that car) to a 10" kenwood in a ported box same amp. That did it! Now with the Civic I'm satisfied with the stock system, but aftermarket 6.5" up front and 6x9" in the rear deck (All stock locations). The one trick for those starting out is to make sure they get the highest efficiency/sensitivity for the speakers. That makes sure that ever watt of input is much louder in output of the speakers. The rule is for ever 3db of speaker sensitivity is equal to about 50watts of power input! So if let's say you have a speaker that's 88db in sensitivity that's pumping 100w, that same loudness in a speaker at 91db sensitivity (3db more) would only need 50w!


That's awesome that the current drain is compatible with your stock electrical system! nice! Maybe I missed it, what's the wattage of the new JL Audio amp? Hey I hope I'm 100 and still bumping music! Also, that's awesome about not advertising the system getting closer to your destination. Didn't want to see you lose it to some thief!

JL audio amps, very good indeed, you have very good taste!! I'll never forget the first time I heard JL Audio subwoofer. The bass seemed to go through my bones! They make some good stuff!

I completely agree with you about a "bass cushion" great way to say it. Better to have it than not to!

And cleaning it up wouldn't be that difficult,.. Car Audio, clean installs is definitely an art form! You've got the bug and the only cure is.. well.. more car audio! lol
 
oh boy a 24 hour or so update.

I have learned SO MUCH in the last day, and it's way more involved than hooking up a couple wires and calling it good.

A few things that stick out, that I was doing wrong....

-Wire thickness does count.... Thicker is usually better in this case. I initially used the thin power wire that came with the first kicker subwoofer.. oops.

-Bridging of the amp... I for the life of me could not bridge the amp, because the subwoofer would lightly pop/rumble at engine idle? Being first timer this is more research and trial and error for me...

-What leads me up to the next thing, -the subwoofer was only working on 1 CH the left one even though I have both left and right inputs hooked up. it became obvious that I need to bridge the amp to get both ch's working.

-And GROUNDS. This is a major one, I always knew they were important, but I did not know 18 inches max from amp... I ran the ground from the front on the car lol.

So once I used the upgraded amp kit that included a super thick power wire with a legit inline 50A fuse, and a 18 inch very thick ground and grounded to chassis in trunk.... I was then able to bridge the amp without the subwoofer rumbling, and now have both channels working....

So as I said a lot of research trial and error, but I think the wiring is situated.

This is all very new, and bridging the amp? there's a first for everything LOL.

Results are phenomenal btw and nothing blew somehow. :LOL:
 
The first subwoofer I ever bought (all I could afford back in those years) was a Kicker by Stillwater Designs. It was a bass box with an 8" subwoofer! lol.. Talk about not enough bass! Powered by an Alpine 80x1 amp! Yup starting out, then graduated (in that car) to a 10" kenwood in a ported box same amp. That did it! Now with the Civic I'm satisfied with the stock system, but aftermarket 6.5" up front and 6x9" in the rear deck (All stock locations). The one trick for those starting out is to make sure they get the highest efficiency/sensitivity for the speakers. That makes sure that ever watt of input is much louder in output of the speakers. The rule is for ever 3db of speaker sensitivity is equal to about 50watts of power input! So if let's say you have a speaker that's 88db in sensitivity that's pumping 100w, that same loudness in a speaker at 91db sensitivity (3db more) would only need 50w!


That's awesome that the current drain is compatible with your stock electrical system! nice! Maybe I missed it, what's the wattage of the new JL Audio amp? Hey I hope I'm 100 and still bumping music! Also, that's awesome about not advertising the system getting closer to your destination. Didn't want to see you lose it to some thief!

JL audio amps, very good indeed, you have very good taste!! I'll never forget the first time I heard JL Audio subwoofer. The bass seemed to go through my bones! They make some good stuff!

I completely agree with you about a "bass cushion" great way to say it. Better to have it than not to!

And cleaning it up wouldn't be that difficult,.. Car Audio, clean installs is definitely an art form! You've got the bug and the only cure is.. well.. more car audio! lol
@researcher I just recently learned that when I posted this threads asking about speaker upgrades. With the infinity speakers, I have no "volume" issue. I would have to tap out around 24 on the volume. It's uncomfortably loud after that point, and that was before the subwoofer. Now it's closer to 20. I can honestly comfortably listen to the volume in the car while going down the road at 6 or 7, 12-14 if im in a great mood haha, but very very rarely do I go above 14.

The amp is a JL audio 90 watt rms x4 / 180watt rms x2 subwoofer output bridged. So it's under 400 watts rms, but it's such a clean 400 watts now after the wire and ground upgrades, that it sounds deceptively more powerful than what the numbers read. I honestly don't want to stress out the electrical system the alternator or the battery.... right now haha with a huge powerful amp and dual 12 inch subs. Currently the bass is so pronounced in the chassis that I don't know if I'm hitting bumps or if it's the subwoofer making the car vibrate lol. I have the "input sensitivity" aka gain or what ever pretty low around 25%, but with the amp bridged, this single sealed subwoofer has no problems making bass even with the factory radio and amp as the only signal being sent to the JL audio amplifier..

A nice touch is I can fine tune the bass on a per song basis using the factory bass controls. I leave it at zero but can go up or down 10 in either direction.
 
@researcher I just recently learned that when I posted this threads asking about speaker upgrades. With the infinity speakers, I have no "volume" issue. I would have to tap out around 24 on the volume. It's uncomfortably loud after that point, and that was before the subwoofer. Now it's closer to 20. I can honestly comfortably listen to the volume in the car while going down the road at 6 or 7, 12-14 if im in a great mood haha, but very very rarely do I go above 14.

The amp is a JL audio 90 watt rms x4 / 180watt rms x2 subwoofer output bridged. So it's under 400 watts rms, but it's such a clean 400 watts now after the wire and ground upgrades, that it sounds deceptively more powerful than what the numbers read. I honestly don't want to stress out the electrical system the alternator or the battery.... right now haha with a huge powerful amp and dual 12 inch subs. Currently the bass is so pronounced in the chassis that I don't know if I'm hitting bumps or if it's the subwoofer making the car vibrate lol. I have the "input sensitivity" aka gain or what ever pretty low around 25%, but with the amp bridged, this single sealed subwoofer has no problems making bass even with the factory radio and amp as the only signal being sent to the JL audio amplifier..

A nice touch is I can fine tune the bass on a per song basis using the factory bass controls. I leave it at zero but can go up or down 10 in either direction.
ahh yes bridging the amp, no harm actually, you just weren't getting the "full" picture of wattage between the left+right signal. And for those who are reading this that don't know what bridging is, it's simple. Since the subwoofer is bass only it can take a stereo signal (left + right) together. The amp can take the stereo signal together into mono and output it by combining the left and right outputs (electrical that drives the speaker). It looks like a "bridge" because instead of a left + and - powering one left speaker and a right + and - powering the right speaker, the connection takes a left + and a right - only to power the speaker/subwoofer. By doing this the wattage doubles for the amp. Which of course @1 SX did..

Glad you figured that out! awesome. And yes the thicker the cable the more amperage can be supplied to an amp. It's called gauge, the lower the number the thicker the wire. For a 400w amp I'd probably recommend at min a 4gauge wire. Oh and did you know that the rule is "same pipe size in, same pipe size out" that means power wire size is the same as the ground wire.


About tuning the volume and gain. That is supposedly "straight forward" with the audio amp manufacturers. But it's never that easy.. I've used the multimeter method measuring the voltage but sometimes an extra tweak is in order to make it sound correct. If you've got it where you like it and there's no distortion then that's perfect. I can see why you had to set the level to 25%, the stock radio/headunit isn't putting out THAT much volume! That monster sub had to be turned down or you'd never hear the other speakers! lol

here's a link to JL Audio's description of tuning the amp's gain.. but that's in a perfect world..

I'm also wondering about the 50a fuse.. That might be a little high, looking at JL Audio's site they were saying a 40a, did the amp come with instructions? I'd rather have a fuse blow early than later.. but other than that sounds like you're getting it all sorted and learning in the process! glad you're enjoying going down the rabbit hole of car audio!
 
I’ve dabbled in audio, mostly live sound, for 40 years. At some point I started getting tired of hateful loadouts and started experimenting with lightweight cabs. Then I started experimenting with using smaller drivers, not larger, with lightweight cab construction, and at some point started messing with horn loading. I’ve got a pair of lightweight horn loaded subs … using a single 10” sub each, that compare to a standard ported 15. it does take some EQ to reign them in, BUT, horn cabinets also have a natural ease which a simple box can’t do. You might check out billfitzmourice.com - he has a couple of auto-friendly sub designs worth a look. I like his designs. They are not super easy, but I learned a ton by building from them.
 
Is this even possible 😂?
8B0F2CCF-BCF5-44A6-9FDF-7A7DCA3C6369.jpeg
 
ok that's it!! now you've done it! yup it's officially loud enough! you upgraded that audio system to the point that it's so loud.. you've cracked your windshield!! :giggle:
😬 *sigh*..

ok ok joking aside.. even though it is fun.. if you can get into that crack some of the rain-x windshield repair kit, then expose the UV glue to sunlight, it can seal up that crack and stop it from spreading. You'll have to take the cowl plastic piece off (one beneath the wiper blades) to get to the edge (probably goes right to the edge of the glass). Yup I've had windshields crack like that, and fixed it.. I did buy a UV led light too, that way I don't have to wait for sunlight during winter.. light was about $40 at amazon.

the rain-x windshield repair kit is at walmart.. best one i've used. You might have to get behind the glass and push LIGHTLY to separate the crack and get the glue into that space. And I mean thumb pressure..

here's a link
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Rain-x-W...By-Repairing-Chips-And-Cracks-600001/34163599
 
All joking aside also, I don’t think it was from the bass the windshield is heated, and there’s no impact on the external of the windshield it’s like it’s not even cracked on the external layer only the internal layer?
It just happened to be I noticed it after install the subwoofer 😂
 
All joking aside also, I don’t think it was from the bass the windshield is heated, and there’s no impact on the external of the windshield it’s like it’s not even cracked on the external layer only the internal layer?
It just happened to be I noticed it after install the subwoofer 😂
I know it's fun to make fun that it was the sub that was so powerful it cracked the windshield! lol... it probably wasn't the sub, but it's always something.. I know how that feels!! usually you hear me saying out loud, to myself.. ARE YOU KIDDING ME!? lol

ohh.. so it's a crack under the lamination layer.. or in the lamination layer.. I can see it now looking again at the picture. hmm.. I bet it won't spread, others can add their comments, you might want to put a separate post (with the picture) out there in the maintenance forum since people might not see it here, get their opinion.. I know some will immediately tell you to replace the glass.. I'd ignore those, see what people think (glass experienced) of this type of crack..

but my opinion? If the crack is under or inside the laminate I will bet the laminate will hold it in place. Sure, I'm not perfect but that's my thought. see what others think.. If they agree and you leave it alone, probably for the best, with all the horror stories you hear of glass installers not doing the best job, actually making the car worse..
 
Another day!, (and a new year) with a couple more questions haha...

So after I bridged the amp and pretty much doubled the power draw... at engine idle with lights on "I" can notice the lights dimming under hard bass, just enough to bother me and goes away pretty much immediately with any sort of RPM increase, even 100 rpms..

THE BIG 3.. Seems like I would upgrade the alt to battery connection, battery ground to chassis, and engine to body ground wires? Seems beneficial, and logical... Drawing more than factory watts I would need thicker gauge wires. How thick though?

Capacitor? I see a ton of 28-49$ capacitors... Would this help with the lights dimming at idle? I would not mind spending more on a good quality name brand capacitor, if need be.. I should do the big 3 upgrades first though, followed by capacitor if so?

The battery is a couple months old rated at 890 CCA. I did clean all factory grounds over the summer.

Thanks. 🙏
 
I know it's fun to make fun that it was the sub that was so powerful it cracked the windshield! lol... it probably wasn't the sub, but it's always something.. I know how that feels!! usually you hear me saying out loud, to myself.. ARE YOU KIDDING ME!? lol

ohh.. so it's a crack under the lamination layer.. or in the lamination layer.. I can see it now looking again at the picture. hmm.. I bet it won't spread, others can add their comments, you might want to put a separate post (with the picture) out there in the maintenance forum since people might not see it here, get their opinion.. I know some will immediately tell you to replace the glass.. I'd ignore those, see what people think (glass experienced) of this type of crack..

but my opinion? If the crack is under or inside the laminate I will bet the laminate will hold it in place. Sure, I'm not perfect but that's my thought. see what others think.. If they agree and you leave it alone, probably for the best, with all the horror stories you hear of glass installers not doing the best job, actually making the car worse..
I really analyzed the crack and you can see in the middle of the crack what looks like a connector to the glass. The external glass is not broken and you can't "feel" the crack on the outside. I would not be able to get at it from the inside either, as the crack is below/behind the dash inside the car.

It is the genuine OEM windshield so I would feel better about leaving that crack than getting a 3rd party windshield.
 
I really analyzed the crack and you can see in the middle of the crack what looks like a connector to the glass. The external glass is not broken and you can't "feel" the crack on the outside. I would not be able to get at it from the inside either, as the crack is below/behind the dash inside the car.

It is the genuine OEM windshield so I would feel better about leaving that crack than getting a 3rd party windshield.
That's good, really! That it's contained by the lamination and the safety glass sheet (what is sandwiched between the two parts of the glass) is really good. I agree to just leave it alone, you were very blessed with that type of crack!
Another day!, (and a new year) with a couple more questions haha...

So after I bridged the amp and pretty much doubled the power draw... at engine idle with lights on "I" can notice the lights dimming under hard bass, just enough to bother me and goes away pretty much immediately with any sort of RPM increase, even 100 rpms..

THE BIG 3.. Seems like I would upgrade the alt to battery connection, battery ground to chassis, and engine to body ground wires? Seems beneficial, and logical... Drawing more than factory watts I would need thicker gauge wires. How thick though?

Capacitor? I see a ton of 28-49$ capacitors... Would this help with the lights dimming at idle? I would not mind spending more on a good quality name brand capacitor, if need be.. I should do the big 3 upgrades first though, followed by capacitor if so?

The battery is a couple months old rated at 890 CCA. I did clean all factory grounds over the summer.

Thanks. 🙏

Now about the dimming of the parking lights, that's typical. The transient pull of amperage on the electrical system is typical of higher power amps and a stock alternator. Your battery most likely took the hit to supply the current/amperage to your amplifier. And then had to charge back up. Yes the "Big 3" is a good thing to do, but the problem here is too much of a current draw at idle. As you mentioned, once under way and rpm's are higher the alternator supplies enough power, again normal. If you don't have at least 4gauge wiring I'd upgrade to that (for the amp), see what that wiring kit listed as the size of the wiring. Just to make sure. I think the big 3 would be your last choice of things to upgrade.

But, getting to the other point, you're 100% correct, a capacitor! With what's happening to you that's exactly what they're designed for! Yes it would help. I believe the capacitor would be your first step, besides making sure the wiring is at least 4gauge in size (ground and power). Looks like (did some research to refresh my memory) 1 farad is the typical size still used for 500watts or less. So get that size, I'd also get an electrolytic type capacitor, faster to recharge. And you wire it inline to the power connection on the amp, you get it as close (Wiring) as you can.

See? Isn't this fun?! Welcome to car audio! 😎

EDIT: Found a very thorough article about the installation of a capacitor.. here's the link
http://www.caraudiohelp.com/car_audio_capacitor_installation.html
 
This is in the kia. I have no real complaints on the factory 6 speaker setup... its about 200 watts in laboratory conditions, probably much less in every day life 🤔.. It sounds good most of the time... but on certain songs / frequencies its as if the speakers are "worn" or "loose" as in they move more than they should. I have the bass at -3 (-10 to +10 values) and the mirrors are just about useless if over 23 (out of 35) on volume level.

Anyways I want to keep the factory headunit just for the looks and functionality.... for time being. (I am thinking about a full touch screen navi setup down road).

I am looking for (4) 6.5 inch speakers that can run off the factory watts (and aftermarket headunit down road) and sound better then the worn out paper ones currently in the car.. I never max out the radio even at highway speeds with the windows down so "volume" is not a issue.

What's your recommendations on a decent 6.5 inch speaker that does not require hundreds of watts to sound good? Im flexible on price, but we will say $150 cap per pair. I also don't know about mounting depth, but when I had the door panel off there is some room to work with..

Thank you for the recommendations.
I would go to a Best Buy etc that has them hooked up because only you can decide what sounds best for your preferences. I did and found some JBL speakers sounded better than some kickers they had on display which I thought would be the best. Sometimes more expensive doesn’t always mean better to some degree. Look at min and max watts to not under power them.
 
The cap may help the finer transients when the amp is pushing hard, but any sustained note will still have a voltage sag. Let’s say the cap is a massive 1 farad size. And lets say normal idle is 13.5 volts. This is conceptual math, crude math. So all of the sudden the amp hits, it draws the battery down to where it starts to do real work, which is below 12.6. You’ve fallen 0.9 volts. In crude terms, the capacitor is being asked to keep the voltage up at 13.5, but it starts dropping the very moment it begins to discharge. It will reach 12.6 after roughly 8% of its charge is used. All of the sudden, the other 92% of that farad is sorta … not really beneficial.

however, where the cap is helping, is the amp is not pulling power smoothly. It is “creating” dirty power, pulling in peaks and valleys in accordance with the frequencies dished out in the music, especially the bass. The effective voltage drop at the amp could be much lower than 12.6… even 11 or less under load. A massive system could pull it down to 10… not visible on a slow measurement like a volt meter, but visible on an oscilloscope. This is where the cap really starts to shine. It’s providing much more help with these fast changing voltages, smoothing it out. Ok get ready. You may or may not hear the difference in the sub. You will hear the difference in the mids, where the power draw from the sub amp was eating into the power for the mids, the mids were probably distorting. But with the stiffening cap, all of the sudden the mids aren’t tied to the power drain, and dirty power, produced by the sub. the end result is that your ear tells you the system seems “effortless,” like it’s not running out of breath.

all the while, the lights will still dim…

does your car perhaps have a trim level that was equipped with a larger alternator? Higher trim line with more accessories? Cold weather package? The real benefit of a higher capacity alternator isn’t that you need 200 amps sustained to power the gear - it’s that it can generate 25 more amps at idle than a smaller one.

other options include somehow raising alternator rpm at idle.

other option could also include buying a power sports AGM starter battery and tying it into the power leads at the amp. A 200CCA motorcycle battery will provide usable current back at the amp, with possibly better lungs than a stiffening cap. If I were in your shoes, I might try it.

PUT FUSES ON EVERYTHING.
 
@researcher A couple more questions.

The box is pretty big 3/4" thick.. maybe 1.2-1.8 total cf or more but i can't remember what the actual cubic feet of the box. more then 1 less then 2 I think... I guess I could measure it out right? Pioneer recommends for this sub that is installed in it: Enclosure Use: 0.85 ~ 1.75 Cubic Feet.

The subwoofer that is currently installed in that box is a really beefy pioneer.... From 2005! Model TS-W306C

Looks like this:
Screenshot 2023-01-02 at 6.15.35 AM.jpg


These are the specs:
  • 12" Subwoofer
  • Power Handling:
    • Peak: 1000 Watts
    • RMS: 400 Watts
  • Impedance: Single 4-Ohm
  • Composite IMPP Woofer Cone with Interlaced Aramid Fiber
  • Cone Reinforcement Arcs
  • Wide Roll, Three-Layer Fiber Woven Radial Surround
  • 4-Layer Aluminum Voice Coil
  • Polyester-Imide Resin Coated Voice Coil Wire
  • 12 Slit Aluminum Voice Coil Bobbin
  • Conex Spider
  • Damper Ring
  • Top Plate Standard
  • Projected Pole Yoke with Vented Pole
  • 83 oz. Double Mass High-Power Magnet Construction
  • Stamped Basket with Magnet Cover
  • Molded Gasket
  • Spring-Compression Wire Terminals
Sounds Tight... Controlled. no real boom sound that a ported would produce. I would even say the base is really accurate. If I did not look up the speaker model I would "assume" it was a relatively new subwoofer..(like I did) but it is 17 years old.. It was installed in that sealed box for the last 17 years... I did not remove the woofer but from the pictures it looks extremely over built.. should I dare say pioneers old "quality??"

I did not even have my license yet and this woofer was thumping...
So I was window shopping newer subwoofers.. I don't know what im looking at per se. there are ALOT of no name brands that im no so sure about... but If I had to choose a subwoofer right now I would choose this $100 pioneer champion svc series subwoofer. (TS-W311S4)
looks like this:
Screenshot 2023-01-02 at 6.33.54 AM.jpg



Would there be any benefits of upgrading the subwoofer and keeping the box? I don't know what im looking for nor do I know what im missing out on haha.

🙏
 
@researcher A couple more questions.

The box is pretty big 3/4" thick.. maybe 1.2-1.8 total cf or more but i can't remember what the actual cubic feet of the box. more then 1 less then 2 I think... I guess I could measure it out right? Pioneer recommends for this sub that is installed in it: Enclosure Use: 0.85 ~ 1.75 Cubic Feet.

The subwoofer that is currently installed in that box is a really beefy pioneer.... From 2005! Model TS-W306C

Looks like this:
View attachment 133548

These are the specs:
  • 12" Subwoofer
  • Power Handling:
    • Peak: 1000 Watts
    • RMS: 400 Watts
  • Impedance: Single 4-Ohm
  • Composite IMPP Woofer Cone with Interlaced Aramid Fiber
  • Cone Reinforcement Arcs
  • Wide Roll, Three-Layer Fiber Woven Radial Surround
  • 4-Layer Aluminum Voice Coil
  • Polyester-Imide Resin Coated Voice Coil Wire
  • 12 Slit Aluminum Voice Coil Bobbin
  • Conex Spider
  • Damper Ring
  • Top Plate Standard
  • Projected Pole Yoke with Vented Pole
  • 83 oz. Double Mass High-Power Magnet Construction
  • Stamped Basket with Magnet Cover
  • Molded Gasket
  • Spring-Compression Wire Terminals
Sounds Tight... Controlled. no real boom sound that a ported would produce. I would even say the base is really accurate. If I did not look up the speaker model I would "assume" it was a relatively new subwoofer..(like I did) but it is 17 years old.. It was installed in that sealed box for the last 17 years... I did not remove the woofer but from the pictures it looks extremely over built.. should I dare say pioneers old "quality??"

I did not even have my license yet and this woofer was thumping...
So I was window shopping newer subwoofers.. I don't know what im looking at per se. there are ALOT of no name brands that im no so sure about... but If I had to choose a subwoofer right now I would choose this $100 pioneer champion svc series subwoofer. (TS-W311S4)
looks like this:
View attachment 133549


Would there be any benefits of upgrading the subwoofer and keeping the box? I don't know what im looking for nor do I know what im missing out on haha.

🙏

now you're getting into the engineering part of car audio, see how fast you went down the rabbit hole? lol..

ok you'll be doing a lot of reading to learn all the specs/parameters for subwoofers and speaker enclosures. Most of the time the reason speaker enclosures don't come up in car audio is because most speakers are in the panels of doors, rear decks, dash, etc.. They use that as the box to reverberate the sound. To get to your question about comparing both of these subs. I had to do some digging on your sub the ts-w306c. And you're right, it is more "beefy' compared the newer w311s4. It's not that either is bad but here's the quick summary..

the 306c is only 89db sensitivity but the 311s4 is 95db, more is normally better, but think about your application. You're pumping 400watts, you've had to turn the gain down to about 25% of max on the amp just to match the stock unit driven speakers. If you were to get the 311s4 it would be even LOUDER! because it's 6db more efficient. The rule is for every 3db increase you effectively increase the volume by 1/2. Usually I like to use the example of 100watts into a speaker, increasing it 3db it's like upgrading the amp by 50w to 150w. But in this case you would up it by double! (6db increase of sensitivity) so using my example what was at 100w sound level is now 200w (using the lower efficiency number of course)..

Now that's why I would not recommend going to the newer speaker. Plus looking at the other specs, your "older" speaker has a better free air resonance by 10hz, Fs is the name. Lots of people put down the free air number but I like it because it tells me what the speaker cone resonates at naturally. the 306C is at 32.6hz the 311s4 is 42, a good 10hz lower. To me I like that a sub has a lower "Resting spot" is what I like to call it. Plus the frequency response is better with the 306C, 18-500hz, sure 500hz is NOT bass but mid bass, but I like that you could select a different low pass filter point to have your sub give some of the mid-bass "warmth". I also like a speaker that has flexibility in how you can set it up via the filters. The 311s4 is only 20hz -125hz. Ok just a subwoofer's regular domain.

Also, doing a quick look at the specs without doing a lot of calculations (oh ya there's physics formulas involved), the 306C can be in a larger box putting more air out. The 311s4 is about 20liters smaller which is good if you want a small slim box.

Now the construction, the 306c is impressive! Kevlar (aka aramid) fibers in the poly cone, nice! And the surround is kevlar threaded, probably a composite rubber. They didn't say but then there's the dual magnet structure, **** is all I have to say! This sucker is to hit HARD.. Not that the 311s4 is lazy but I just don't feel it has the same muscle. I'd compare it to a bigger v8 engine at 300hp or a turbo 4cyl at 300hp. Both have the same "power" but a V8 is just going to develop that power with grunt. Sort of like this 306C. The reason it can be "this old" is because it was made with materials that don't really care about the weather in a car audio environment. For example back in the day I installed a system for my dad with a mid-level kenwood subwoofer in a q-logic box (3/4" mdf, beefy!) and that was in 96! He passed away and I inherited that box.. it's still completely fine, no age! crazy isn't it?! Good stuff like that will last a long, long time. The problem happens when the surrounds of the speaker are cloth or foam, that is what moisture/heat will destroy! Coated cloth? same demise..

The other reason you like the speaker is it is as you said, in a sealed enclosure, those types always hit harder. If you really wanted it loud get a ported enclosure, lol.. or want to go deaf?? Try a bandpass enclosure.. I'd be selling you hearing aids shortly! lol...

Whoever built that box knew what they were doing, they wanted a tight, controlled, focused bass with the ability to have some mid-bass low end as well. I have to tell you that your "spidey senses" were correct in the 306C is more of a competition level subwoofer than the regular 311s4. Is it that Pioneer is cheaper quality now? Not sure but I bet they make a 306C equivalent today but be prepared to pay for it, like everything else..

Sometimes in the past audio makers just hit it out of the park and never come back to it.. Like some headphones I got back in the day, Sony MDR-V6, turns out it was one of the best headphones ever made, studios use them now to record music. Sony was smart, they have continued to make it for over 30 years! See? Sometimes a product is made that is just the best, regardless of what year it was made..

I think you have a really nice sub you're going to have a lot of research time on your hands to find something as good as that one. Now there is one exception I have to throw in here, it's not just the speaker but the speaker enclosure that it has to work with, they compliment each other. That box you have should be beefy! That speaker would rip apart anything cheap!

I wouldn't buy the new 311s4 champion series sub, it's just an average subwoofer speaker.. you've been spoiled by a higher level speaker.. (y) And using that box with a new speaker would require you to measure the internal volume of that box to know how it will interact with a new speaker.
 
@researcher THANK YOU so much for the detailed response. I am learning so much... and im in trouble... :LOL:

I took your advice and bought a new 2 farad capacitor for the subwoofer. It will be here in a few days.

Im already thinking about a FULL custom install later in the year with a bigger amp and maybe something like 2 12's in a custom enclosure fit in the trunk with the amp and capacitor. Basically make the trunk completely useless :LOL: but have it look the part.

The factory oem radio and amp has surprised me with the clarity in the infinity speakers. Now that I took the bass load off the 6.5 infinity's they are MUCH cleaner as im not asking them to hit the low notes. Also disabling the SSV in radio menu was a huge help in terms of "loudness"

Still have alot of understand haha.

🙏
 
@researcher THANK YOU so much for the detailed response. I am learning so much... and im in trouble... :LOL:

I took your advice and bought a new 2 farad capacitor for the subwoofer. It will be here in a few days.

Im already thinking about a FULL custom install later in the year with a bigger amp and maybe something like 2 12's in a custom enclosure fit in the trunk with the amp and capacitor. Basically make the trunk completely useless :LOL: but have it look the part.

The factory oem radio and amp has surprised me with the clarity in the infinity speakers. Now that I took the bass load off the 6.5 infinity's they are MUCH cleaner as im not asking them to hit the low notes. Also disabling the SSV in radio menu was a huge help in terms of "loudness"

Still have alot of understand haha.

🙏
Hey you're welcome! I thought I'd just explain some of the specs to give you an idea of why I think the sub you have is really good. Glad it made sense. Uh oh.. you're in trouble! (announcement over a loudspeaker...) PLEASE STEP AWAY FROM THE CAR AUDIO.. PUT DOWN THOSE TOOLS AND AUDIO AMP.. lol...:ROFLMAO:

2 12" wow.. yeah it's going to be LOUD.. I do have to admit to being a bit cautious with my hearing and personally 2 12" is almost overkill for the car, you can do what makes you happy, but be careful the sound pressure level with 2 12" will be extremely loud, didn't want you to lose your hearing. Just saying.. Not here to tell anyone what to do just my personal thoughts. And as @meep brought up a great point, a newer higher output alternator will be needed if you upgrade the whole system. A cap could help but what he brought up also makes sense. In your system, I beleive a cap is a band-aid fix for now. Eventually if the current draw is too much it will need a larger capacity alternator. I think yours is at 110amps.

The best thing right now is to install the cap and see if it corrects the problem. I'm not trying to tell you to throw parts at it, but it should help.. Then after the cap look at the wiring. That wiring kit you installed for the amp, what was the size of that wiring? Was it 4gauge? Look at the side of the wiring, should have printing on it such as 4AWG that's the abbreviation for the gauge. Should use that size wire from the amp through the cap too.

hahaha so yup the trunk would definitely be useless, but at least it looks good! At least you have your eye on the aesthetics!! Cool!

I believe the advancements in the aftermarket and of course consumers demanding better is what directed the auto manufacturers to make better (than they had before) radio/headunits. There are many stock units out there that like you said are very, very clean in their output signals. If you do upgrade your system you could keep the stock unit but it might give you more options to go aftermarket. Just saying there are lots of options.

but that's cool, yup you have lots of homework to do and soak up, but for once this homework will be fun to do!
 
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