Good aftermarket speakers - 6.5 inch using factory headunit?

[edyvw]

2.5 month update!

The infinity speakers are now "broken in" and sound better then ever.

With the new speakers I've noticed how bad XM sounds now but otherwise im very pleased. Bass is strong with a nice mid and treble range to equal it out. The speakers are very "lively" and make the factory watts sound a lot more than what's really there.

I was looking at oem parts diagram and it appears there IS a small dedicated amp P/N (963701M200) in the passenger rear wheel well. That might explain why the speakers sound as good as they do.
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This is a budget amplifier. Those speakers you got far exceed the capability of the amplifier.
Get on Crutchfield Apline or JL Audio small amplifier that has pin connection so it is plug and play.
After that you are really in business.

 

[nthach]

This is a budget amplifier. Those speakers you got far exceed the capability of the amplifier.
Get on Crutchfield Apline or JL Audio small amplifier that has pin connection so it is plug and play.
After that you are really in business.

Personally, get one of these:
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-XPi9YiTnVyR/p_500KTP445U/Alpine-KTP-445U-Power-Pack.html
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20647KEY20/Kicker-47KEY200-4.html?tp=115

If the factory HyunKia radio has a “clean” signal without bass rolloff or weird DSP get the Alpine. Else, get the Kicker with the built-in Keyloc to take apart and reassemble the OE signal.

 

[1 SX]

This is a budget amplifier. Those speakers you got far exceed the capability of the amplifier.
Get on Crutchfield Apline or JL Audio small amplifier that has pin connection so it is plug and play.
After that you are really in business.

I had NO IDEA!
Audio is a whole new thing for me - this is only my 2nd car audio upgrade in my life... first one 15 years ago was a 94 Saturn with the gm tape player and all 4 blown paper cone speaker surrounds

I usually purchase vehicles with technology packages / upgraded audio, etc. so I usually found no need to upgrade anything in the audio system 9 times out of 10. As you can see I does not take much to make me happy lol.

I'm really digging that plug and play amp.....

last note I do have more than enough volume as I very rarely take it over 18 or 19 and thats out of 30 something volume scale so I've never experienced bass roll off or anything "weird". To my ears the signal sounds very nice a majority of the time. XM can be a little bass heavy on some songs, but USB music ripped at 320 sounds crystal clear.... its been 2.5 months with these new speakers and i'm hearing sounds in songs I have played for 15 years or more I NEVER knew was there. Sometimes I even turn the sound down because it sounds so "different" like the car is making a weird sound or something haha.

EDIT:
I don't know what I am looking at in regards to these amps. I have to learn more about them so I know what to buy. I do not want to splice anything in the wires, but a truly plug and play amp I would do.

 

[edyvw]

I had NO IDEA!
Audio is a whole new thing for me - this is only my 2nd car audio upgrade in my life... first one 15 years ago was a 94 Saturn with the gm tape player and all 4 blown paper cone speaker surrounds

I usually purchase vehicles with technology packages / upgraded audio, etc. so I usually found no need to upgrade anything in the audio system 9 times out of 10. As you can see I does not take much to make me happy lol.

I'm really digging that plug and play amp.....

last note I do have more than enough volume as I very rarely take it over 18 or 19 and thats out of 30 something volume scale so I've never experienced bass roll off or anything "weird". To my ears the signal sounds very nice a majority of the time. XM can be a little bass heavy on some songs, but USB music ripped at 320 sounds crystal clear.... its been 2.5 months with these new speakers and i'm hearing sounds in songs I have played for 15 years or more I NEVER knew was there. Sometimes I even turn the sound down because it sounds so "different" like the car is making a weird sound or something haha.

EDIT:
I don't know what I am looking at in regards to these amps. I have to learn more about them so I know what to buy. I do not want to splice anything in the wires, but a truly plug and play amp I would do.

Give a call to Crutchfield. They will help you find amp that has easiest installation. Go JLAudio if they have for your application. It is not how much volume, it is clarity, quality of sound.

 

[Propflux01]

This is a budget amplifier. Those speakers you got far exceed the capability of the amplifier.
Get on Crutchfield Apline or JL Audio small amplifier that has pin connection so it is plug and play.
After that you are really in business.

I wasn't aware they had a pin type P&P amp wired for the Hyundai. And at 50 WPC, that's not doing much more from the factory amp. Also, if he is equipped with mid channel and factory subwoofer, he would need a six channel amp.

 

[edyvw]

I wasn't aware they had a pin type P&P amp wired for the Hyundai. And at 50 WPC, that's not doing much more from the factory amp. Also, if he is equipped with mid channel and factory subwoofer, he would need a six channel amp.

He might need harness converter. It is cheap and not big deal.
Most cars now use BUS for audio. On my BMW i pulled out everything and installed DIY audio. But, everything still must be connected to BUS. So, $14 harness from Crutchfield solves an issue.
He might need more channels. I am really not familiar with Hyundai audio systems. Maybe some research on Hyundai specific forums or talk to Crutchfield.

 

[nthach]

I wasn't aware they had a pin type P&P amp wired for the Hyundai. And at 50 WPC, that's not doing much more from the factory amp. Also, if he is equipped with mid channel and factory subwoofer, he would need a six channel amp.

With his sound system, the Infinity “premium” sound that’s similar to the JBL/Mark Levinson branded system in Toyota/Lexus the factory amp takes in a 2-channel input and feeds out a heavily processed signal to the speakers - the amp will use DSP and digital fading/summing. The speakers will be of low impedance, around 1-3 ohms.

Newer Hyundais use digital feeds to the factory amp - either SPDIF or TOSLINK. You’ll need an amp interface like a PAC AmpPro or iDatalink Maestro Ar in that case.

 

[nthach]

Most cars now use BUS for audio. On my BMW i pulled out everything and installed DIY audio. But, everything still must be connected to BUS. So, $14 harness from Crutchfield solves an issue.
He might need more channels.

yea, Hyundai has been using SPDIF to feed their factory amps. The Japanese have been using IEBus(Toyota AVC-LAN/Honda GA-NET) but recently Toyota has jumped onto the MOST bandwagon that the Europeans have been using for a while. Ford recently has been using AAB over USB. I had to install interfaces to install a new deck in Toyotas.

The aftermarket has responded with factory to aftermarket inferfaces. They can feed a clean analog signal and keep factory features(PAC and iDatalink), take a “dirty” processed factory signal and recompile it to be “clean”(Kicker Key) or allow the installer to tweak the output and augment the factory DSP(JL Audio and Audiosource).

 

[edyvw]

With his sound system, the Infinity “premium” sound that’s similar to the JBL/Mark Levinson branded system in Toyota/Lexus the factory amp takes in a 2-channel input and feeds out a heavily processed signal to the speakers - the amp will use DSP and digital fading/summing. The speakers will be of low impedance, around 1-3 ohms.

Newer Hyundais use digital feeds to the factory amp - either SPDIF or TOSLINK. You’ll need an amp interface like a PAC AmpPro or iDatalink Maestro Ar in that case.

One thing about JBL is that it is really not what it was before.
I had their amp to feed front 4” in the doir and tweeters in door corners as well as 6.5” on rear shelf (Pioneer is pushing two subs under seat) I always had issue with whine noise and needed constant adjustments. I could go with resistors on alternator etc. but that is band aid. JLAudio resolved that and provided serious upgrade over JBL.

 

[1 SX]

This is sounding like a whole different language right now.

 

[edyvw]

yea, Hyundai has been using SPDIF to feed their factory amps. The Japanese have been using IEBus(Toyota AVC-LAN/Honda GA-NET) but recently Toyota has jumped onto the MOST bandwagon that the Europeans have been using for a while. Ford recently has been using AAB over USB. I had to install interfaces to install a new deck in Toyotas.

The aftermarket has responded with factory to aftermarket inferfaces. They can feed a clean analog signal and keep factory features(PAC and iDatalink), take a “dirty” processed factory signal and recompile it to be “clean”(Kicker Key) or allow the installer to tweak the output and augment the factory DSP(JL Audio and Audiosource).

Yes, BMW is MOST. I use PAC harness to connect Kenwood head unit to BUS. Works like a charm. Kept all functions on steering and some on steering can be manipulated to do different functions. But, I didn’t need DSP as I replaced HU.
Now, I know at least in BMW, HU can be decoded to provide clean signal. Nit sure for Hyundai.

 

[researcher]

This is sounding like a whole different language right now.

lol.. ok couple things I'll translate for ya.. (what's my background? been doing car audio installs for years and yes successful ones at that!).. First, glad I could mention the add-on amplifiers that the aftermarket has. looks like it helped spark a big conversation!

now what all the other members are talking about is simple. First, you mentioned you didn't want to cut/splice wiring, with these systems you usually don't have to. There are wiring adapters that simply plug into the factory harness and into the aftermarket amplifier. The only splicing you have to do is connecting the wiring to each of the adapters (from the aftermarket to the adapter). The rest of what they're talking about is how the automakers get the signal from the radio/headunit to the amplifiers, some use Toslink (a fiber optic connection, not regular wiring) and others use different signals which would be way different than some of the mainstream amplifiers from the aftermarket. Some use DSP (digital signal processing) which alters the audio signal to make the speakers "sound" better than they are. I think you get the idea.. Some of those DSP systems need another DSP to make it sound regular.. not cheap!

Ok back to your Kia.. I don't think you're using a DSP system.. why? Because when you changed your speakers to an aftermarket one you're hearing better details than you've heard before. If it was heavily DSP/equalized I doubt you'd hear that. Which is good.. I think it's just a regular amps system, but hey.. if you're happy with the loudness/volume of the factory sound through your new speakers.. I say you reached your goal! Sometimes it's better to do a little to get to the audio goal than a lot and then wonder why the first move (replace speakers) was better to your ears than this huge amplifier set up. Sure, I think the idea of a new amp is awesome, but I've replaced speakers only in a factory audio system and been very very happy with the results. I say enjoy what you've got but it's nice to know if you get the urge there are options out there to get even louder!

 

[1 SX]

Another audio update...

I don't need earth shattering bass but was looking for a touch more of it and to take some bass load off the infinity's. I found this small amplified 10 inch subwoofer - its only couple hundred watts but it pairs so nicely with the factory headunit and infinity's that any more watts and it would be overkill.

Install was overall “pleasant” enough with only about seven or eight wire connections, and a couple hours of time.

I used the clock for the remote amp power signal
tapped into both rear speaker wires for L/R subwoofer signal
power/ground

My unprofessional audio opinion is: I am not disappointed with the subwoofer.. The bass for its size and price was reasonable enough and it sounds pretty good. Also, there is something inside of a secondary menu on radio called P-BASS and Speed Sensitive Volume. I disabled both of them. The SSV made the audio sound lower and the P-BASS really sent too much bass to the infinity speakers.

I did not see a small subwoofer install happening so quickly... but it did.

 

[researcher]

Another audio update...

I don't need earth shattering bass but was looking for a touch more of it and to take some bass load off the infinity's. I found this small amplified 10 inch subwoofer - its only couple hundred watts but it pairs so nicely with the factory headunit and infinity's that any more watts and it would be overkill.

Install was overall “pleasant” enough with only about seven or eight wire connections, and a couple hours of time.

I used the clock for the remote amp power signal
tapped into both rear speaker wires for L/R subwoofer signal
power/ground

My unprofessional audio opinion is: I am not disappointed with the subwoofer.. The bass for its size and price was reasonable enough and it sounds pretty good. Also, there is something inside of a secondary menu on radio called P-BASS and Speed Sensitive Volume. I disabled both of them. The SSV made the audio sound lower and the P-BASS really sent too much bass to the infinity speakers.

I did not see a small subwoofer install happening so quickly... but it did.


View attachment 131509

Nice upgrade..

but you do realize what is happening to you, don't ya? See.. I wondered if you'd get the "itch" and go down the rabbit hole with more and more audio upgrades.. Yup, it has begun.. It's ok, I've been there many times before! I just knew this might happen! lol

 

[1 SX]

Nice upgrade..

but you do realize what is happening to you, don't ya? See.. I wondered if you'd get the "itch" and go down the rabbit hole with more and more audio upgrades.. Yup, it has begun.. It's ok, I've been there many times before! I just knew this might happen! lol

You called this out a week ago!

Another update...

We have MASSIVE bass, and no trunk space. But I don't really use the trunk... often.

Its a custom 12 inch sealed unit powered by a JL audio amp bridged 2 ohms.

 

[dan_erickson]

Here is my little set up. Plenty more to see that’s hidden in the car and up front.

 

[researcher]

You called this out a week ago!

Another update...

We have MASSIVE bass, and no trunk space. But I don't really use the trunk... often.

Its a custom 12 inch sealed unit powered by a JL audio amp bridged 2 ohms.
View attachment 133025

LOL!! yup I sure did call it! I warned ya, not that I tried really hard to stop you.. You see, I too am an audio addict and know exactly the path you're taking!! been down that road many, many times..

Nice setup! I can only imagine how much bass you have now, thumping in your chest!!

But.. I will offer one bit of advice.. It probably still happens, guess it depends on the area, but.. when thumping the bass make sure to turn down the volume driving towards the area you park in (home or work, etc).. that way people won't really know where it's being parked. Just a trick I learned living in a metro area with higher theft rates for stealing car audio. Didn't need to advertise it..

 

[1 SX]

Here is my little set up. Plenty more to see that’s hidden in the car and up front. View attachment 133033

That is soooooo clean!.

 

[1 SX]

LOL!! yup I sure did call it! I warned ya, not that I tried really hard to stop you.. You see, I too am an audio addict and know exactly the path you're taking!! been down that road many, many times..

Nice setup! I can only imagine how much bass you have now, thumping in your chest!!

But.. I will offer one bit of advice.. It probably still happens, guess it depends on the area, but.. when thumping the bass make sure to turn down the volume driving towards the area you park in (home or work, etc).. that way people won't really know where it's being parked. Just a trick I learned living in a metro area with higher theft rates for stealing car audio. Didn't need to advertise it..

I have some "visual" work to do with it... maybe re carpet the exterior of the box and do something with the Amp / wires in trunk area... But it really hits hard with no light dimming or anything electrical related (I did not want to go too many watts for fear of blowing out alternator, battery and/or electrical system) and at end of day was able to keep the factory headunit. It's very deceiving now Im sad that I "waited" so long to do this... im near mid life bumping hard.
I have no neighbors who are close enough to hear the bass and am very courteous of turning down/off when arriving to destination areas.. I was even doing that with the kicker

I took the "gamble" on a used subwoofer (after that first little 10 inch kicker gave me a taste of bass) and a new JL audio amp...

Looking back the 10 inch Kicker was NOT a bad subwoofer and was a good place to get my feet wet for a few days.... it did complement the low end & made it sound like a OEM factory premium system.. but was lacking the "hit" a larger box/sub/watts have. It sounded good but I felt like I was driving that little kicker hard most of the time though not realizing it.

Now it's the polar opposite... There is more bass than speaker if I wanted it that way. I adjusted the gain to a very reasonable level something like 15-20%. I did touch 40% just to see what it's capable of and my kia DID NOT approve. Im sure I would blow out near every bulb in the vehicle if I were to keep it there but it nice to have some "bass cushion" as in have more if need than maxing out something smaller.

 

[nthach]

Another audio update...

I don't need earth shattering bass but was looking for a touch more of it and to take some bass load off the infinity's. I found this small amplified 10 inch subwoofer - its only couple hundred watts but it pairs so nicely with the factory headunit and infinity's that any more watts and it would be overkill.

Install was overall “pleasant” enough with only about seven or eight wire connections, and a couple hours of time.

I used the clock for the remote amp power signal
tapped into both rear speaker wires for L/R subwoofer signal
power/ground

My unprofessional audio opinion is: I am not disappointed with the subwoofer.. The bass for its size and price was reasonable enough and it sounds pretty good. Also, there is something inside of a secondary menu on radio called P-BASS and Speed Sensitive Volume. I disabled both of them. The SSV made the audio sound lower and the P-BASS really sent too much bass to the infinity speakers.

I did not see a small subwoofer install happening so quickly... but it did.


View attachment 131509
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View attachment 131508

I installed a Kicker Hideaway earlier this year. It’s small but mighty.