Going into neutral at stop lights?

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My car runs on Dexron-II/III, but I'll look into the oil cooler idea
Actually it doesn’t since both of those are obsolete licenses. DEXRON-VI superseded those and is either synthetic or at least semi-synthetic.

Maxlife is synthetic and is recommended for your obsolete specification.
 

lube_n00b

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Actually it doesn’t since both of those are obsolete licenses. DEXRON-VI superseded those and is either synthetic or at least semi-synthetic.

Maxlife is synthetic and is recommended for your obsolete specification.
Is that what you use in your 1999 vehicles? I'm weary to switch to something that isn't OEM. For my 1999 Toyota Corolla I go to the dealer and get the OEM fluid rated Dex-II/III
 
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My car runs on Dexron-II/III, but I'll look into the oil cooler idea
I see, but even a modern Dex/Merc formulation from a reputable company like Valovline will likely be a syn blend, much better than was originally filled in your vehicle from the factory.
 
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Is that what you use in your 1999 vehicles? I'm weary to switch to something that isn't OEM. For my 1999 Toyota Corolla I go to the dealer and get the OEM fluid rated Dex-II/III
Not really. “Rated” maybe, but no one sells any fluid with those licenses. DEXRON-VI is the replacement and is superior to the old licensed fluid in every aspect.

And yes I’ve used DEXRON-VI in many old vehicles including my 1994 BMW.
 

lube_n00b

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Not really. “Rated” maybe, but no one sells any fluid with those licenses. DEXRON-VI is the replacement and is superior to the old licensed fluid in every aspect.

And yes I’ve used DEXRON-VI in many old vehicles including my 1994 BMW.
I use this stuff:
PXL_20221019_191821333[1].jpg
PXL_20221019_191813480[1].jpg
 

JHZR2

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Sitting there in neutral is fine and all... until something goes wrong around you. Reaction time is going to be a lot longer if you have to get the vehicle back in gear before you're able to move (and avoid something).
Amazing how folks have been able to deal with it when driving manuals for the last century…
 
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In a standard it's what I do at a light. On a A/T absolutely not. Either Park or Drive as the fluid won't cycle if not in one of the two.
 
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I shift to N if the red light takes a while to change. I’m not worried about extra wear (if any) on trans.
 

Nick1994

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I miss my Genesis. It had "Auto-Hold" and would hold the brakes for you at a stop light. Seems silly, but it was glorious.

I put it in park or neutral if I'm idling for a while. Heard somewhere the transmission could get warm if left idling in drive.
 

dishdude

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I miss my Genesis. It had "Auto-Hold" and would hold the brakes for you at a stop light. Seems silly, but it was glorious.

I put it in park or neutral if I'm idling for a while. Heard somewhere the transmission could get warm if left idling in drive.

Yes! The Acura has it and I love it.

The Corolla I have to knock into neutral at lights because the idle speed drops so low that the A/C blower slows down and I need all the cooling I can get in the summer.
 
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Every shift wears the transmission. Keep doing it and maybe you lose "D". Don't forget that it'll wear out your shifter and linkages, and if fully electronic, range sensors electronic switches.....

Just leave it in drive. If you worry about temperature, install an ATF gauge and monitor the temp. Prove there is a temp problem and then add an ATF cooler to address it. I've never seen a transmission heat up excessively at a red light or drivthru.

Now open up your factory service manual, or specific transmission manual, and see what is engaged and disengaged every time you shift from N to D or D to N.

For every fools folly, there is a transmission shop waiting for your business.
 

Nick1994

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Yes! The Acura has it and I love it.

The Corolla I have to knock into neutral at lights because the idle speed drops so low that the A/C blower slows down and I need all the cooling I can get in the summer.
I had that for years in the Camry. The alternator finally died last summer and after replacing it, I get full blast A/C at idle.
 

Shel_B

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Every time you put it back in gear, the clutches engage to bring the freewheeling parts to a stop, putting wear on them. The clutches are not moving against each other leaving it in gear, so you're actually putting more wear on the clutches by doing that.
+1
 
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Isn't that what the on-again-off-again engines do when they automatically stop running when the foot brake is depressed at the light, along with the advantages of fuel economy? Appreciate the trans is still in gear.

Perhaps another reason to dissuade me from activating the override? Must admit to NOT liking them.
 
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