Amsoil's a waste of money IMHO, M1, Pennzoil, and Castrol all do the job just as good if not better. Make the switch to one of them, you'll be glad you did! Oil technology has evolved so much that there's nothing really special about Amsoil anymore. It's overkill for most engines and a huge hassle to get. Why bother when you can get the others at any auto parts store?
Going from Amsoil/Redline to cheaper Castrol oil?
- Thread starter antik
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Hi
Go on with magnatec start stop 5w30 a5 in the Lex
It's new marketing blah blah for Castrol's magnatec a1 and a5
I'm using it branded as Ford Formula F here in Europe
No problem with 10kmiles oci, engine is clear while oil comes out dark
For your info 5l jug Ford formula f or 4l of magnatec s&s is from 25usd/33aud here
Go on with magnatec start stop 5w30 a5 in the Lex
It's new marketing blah blah for Castrol's magnatec a1 and a5
I'm using it branded as Ford Formula F here in Europe
No problem with 10kmiles oci, engine is clear while oil comes out dark
For your info 5l jug Ford formula f or 4l of magnatec s&s is from 25usd/33aud here
Originally Posted By: jongies3
Amsoil's a waste of money IMHO, M1, Pennzoil, and Castrol all do the job just as good if not better. Make the switch to one of them, you'll be glad you did! Oil technology has evolved so much that there's nothing really special about Amsoil anymore. It's overkill for most engines and a huge hassle to get. Why bother when you can get the others at any auto parts store?
Hater.
Amsoil's a waste of money IMHO, M1, Pennzoil, and Castrol all do the job just as good if not better. Make the switch to one of them, you'll be glad you did! Oil technology has evolved so much that there's nothing really special about Amsoil anymore. It's overkill for most engines and a huge hassle to get. Why bother when you can get the others at any auto parts store?
Hater.
The API SL Edge is probably an A3/B4 oil and is probably thicker than what this Lexyota needs although it would still be a good oil in most any application. It is thicker (higher HTHS) than anything Toyota recommends for any of their current engines in this country.
The Magnetec won't be A3/B4 but would likely be fine for your car and the drain intervals you contemplate.
The only magic I can see in either Red Line or SSO is in their ability to separate folks from large wads of cash.
While you may want the best for your engine, you need to define just exactly what that would be. More expensive doesn't always equate with better performance in a given application. If Magnetec provides for low wear levels and good TBN retention for the OCIs you use, what advantage could there be in a more costly oil?
The Magnetec won't be A3/B4 but would likely be fine for your car and the drain intervals you contemplate.
The only magic I can see in either Red Line or SSO is in their ability to separate folks from large wads of cash.
While you may want the best for your engine, you need to define just exactly what that would be. More expensive doesn't always equate with better performance in a given application. If Magnetec provides for low wear levels and good TBN retention for the OCIs you use, what advantage could there be in a more costly oil?
More people would use Amsoil if it was sold in stores
Originally Posted By: SLO_Town
And since you are discussing OEM filter performance, I see your chart shows the "A02" version of the Honda filter. The A02 filter is made by Fram. All knowledgeable Honda enthusiasts use the A01 version, made by Filtech.
What's the filtering efficiency difference between those two filters?
And since you are discussing OEM filter performance, I see your chart shows the "A02" version of the Honda filter. The A02 filter is made by Fram. All knowledgeable Honda enthusiasts use the A01 version, made by Filtech.
What's the filtering efficiency difference between those two filters?
Originally Posted By: CT8
I can't see the Amsoils performance worth the extra cost
And does anyone know if there even is and what might be the extra performance?
I can't see the Amsoils performance worth the extra cost
And does anyone know if there even is and what might be the extra performance?
Originally Posted By: veryHeavy
(2) Toyota, Honda, and some other OEM filters are very poor at filtration, because they simply buy a no-name brand that is cheap. Switch them out for Pure One, Purolator, or some other company that does nothing but filters (and therefore does it well). Yes I know it's just one graph, but there are additional studies which show the same results.
Where do you think OEMs go to get filters made, a backyard jobber? They go to filter companies. Note that AC Delco is also an OE supplier.
The notion that doing nothing but filters means one does it well is clearly illogical, particularly with Purolator as the example. The entire production line has caught collective dementia.
(2) Toyota, Honda, and some other OEM filters are very poor at filtration, because they simply buy a no-name brand that is cheap. Switch them out for Pure One, Purolator, or some other company that does nothing but filters (and therefore does it well). Yes I know it's just one graph, but there are additional studies which show the same results.
Where do you think OEMs go to get filters made, a backyard jobber? They go to filter companies. Note that AC Delco is also an OE supplier.
The notion that doing nothing but filters means one does it well is clearly illogical, particularly with Purolator as the example. The entire production line has caught collective dementia.
Antik,
You live in Australia and drive a IS250.
The full synthetic Magnatec 5W30 (SN & A3/B4) would be an excellent oil.
If you wanted more the Edge 5W30 (SL - high zinc, A3/B4, BMW LL-01, MB 229.5) is even better. One of the best oils in the world IMO.
Both are very suitable and both a far cheaper than Amsoil and RedLine.
Just because it's more expensive, hard to find, and only imported in small amounts, doesn't make it a better engineered oil. If you want something super exotic then look at Penrite 10-Tenths Racing, it's 100% PAO and Ester, high zinc and completely shear stable. Yet it's still cheaper than Amsoil or RedLine.
Originally Posted By: SR5
Hi OP,
In Australia, Castrol Magnatec 5W30 "Stop-Start" is a full synthetic oil that is rated API SN and ACEA A3/B4. Our Castrol Edge 5W30 A3/B4 is a full synthetic that is rated API SL and ACEA A3/B4. The Edge also meets many OEM specs like BMW LL-01 and MB 229.5.
If you consult the Castrol Edge PDS (here)
It clearly states that the Edge meets all the quality requirements of API SN, but is classified as SL due to elevated zinc / Phos levels. This is because under SN rules the Phos levels are restricted for ILSAC grade (20 & 30 weight) oils. The extra Phos comes from the extra ZDDP (zinc) anti-wear agent in the Edge.
The Edge has about 1000 ppm Zinc, while the Magnatec has about 800 ppm Zinc.
To me, this makes the Edge A3/B4 the better product. But I have both at home, and I consider both to be excellent oils.
You live in Australia and drive a IS250.
The full synthetic Magnatec 5W30 (SN & A3/B4) would be an excellent oil.
If you wanted more the Edge 5W30 (SL - high zinc, A3/B4, BMW LL-01, MB 229.5) is even better. One of the best oils in the world IMO.
Both are very suitable and both a far cheaper than Amsoil and RedLine.
Just because it's more expensive, hard to find, and only imported in small amounts, doesn't make it a better engineered oil. If you want something super exotic then look at Penrite 10-Tenths Racing, it's 100% PAO and Ester, high zinc and completely shear stable. Yet it's still cheaper than Amsoil or RedLine.
Originally Posted By: SR5
Hi OP,
In Australia, Castrol Magnatec 5W30 "Stop-Start" is a full synthetic oil that is rated API SN and ACEA A3/B4. Our Castrol Edge 5W30 A3/B4 is a full synthetic that is rated API SL and ACEA A3/B4. The Edge also meets many OEM specs like BMW LL-01 and MB 229.5.
If you consult the Castrol Edge PDS (here)
It clearly states that the Edge meets all the quality requirements of API SN, but is classified as SL due to elevated zinc / Phos levels. This is because under SN rules the Phos levels are restricted for ILSAC grade (20 & 30 weight) oils. The extra Phos comes from the extra ZDDP (zinc) anti-wear agent in the Edge.
The Edge has about 1000 ppm Zinc, while the Magnatec has about 800 ppm Zinc.
To me, this makes the Edge A3/B4 the better product. But I have both at home, and I consider both to be excellent oils.
I find it funny that Amsoil is cheaper here than Mobil 1.
Originally Posted By: Brad_C
I find it funny that Amsoil is cheaper here than Mobil 1.
I know !!!
How super expensive is M1, it's like $20 per L.
I find it funny that Amsoil is cheaper here than Mobil 1.
I know !!!
How super expensive is M1, it's like $20 per L.
Originally Posted By: SR5
Originally Posted By: Brad_C
I find it funny that Amsoil is cheaper here than Mobil 1.
I know !!!
How super expensive is M1, it's like $20 per L.
Supercheap has 5W30 on sale at about $68 until Friday. I just need to find a store that has it in stock.
Originally Posted By: Brad_C
I find it funny that Amsoil is cheaper here than Mobil 1.
I know !!!
How super expensive is M1, it's like $20 per L.
Supercheap has 5W30 on sale at about $68 until Friday. I just need to find a store that has it in stock.
Originally Posted By: Brad_C
Originally Posted By: SR5
Originally Posted By: Brad_C
I find it funny that Amsoil is cheaper here than Mobil 1.
I know !!!
How super expensive is M1, it's like $20 per L.
Supercheap has 5W30 on sale at about $68 until Friday. I just need to find a store that has it in stock.
Wow....that is pretty good for M1 5W30 in Oz, as it's usually about $90.
However, the full synthetic Castrol Magnatec 5W30 "Stop-Start" can often be found for $50 or less. And the regular everyday price for Valvoline SynPower 5W30 DX1 is $65, and down to ~$40 of sale. Regular price for full synthetic Shell Helix HX8 5W30 is $50.
Nothing wrong with M1, it's a good oil, but I can always find a Castrol / Valvoline / Shell full synthetic for less.
Originally Posted By: SR5
Originally Posted By: Brad_C
I find it funny that Amsoil is cheaper here than Mobil 1.
I know !!!
How super expensive is M1, it's like $20 per L.
Supercheap has 5W30 on sale at about $68 until Friday. I just need to find a store that has it in stock.
Wow....that is pretty good for M1 5W30 in Oz, as it's usually about $90.
However, the full synthetic Castrol Magnatec 5W30 "Stop-Start" can often be found for $50 or less. And the regular everyday price for Valvoline SynPower 5W30 DX1 is $65, and down to ~$40 of sale. Regular price for full synthetic Shell Helix HX8 5W30 is $50.
Nothing wrong with M1, it's a good oil, but I can always find a Castrol / Valvoline / Shell full synthetic for less.
Originally Posted By: SR5
However, the full synthetic Castrol Magnatec 5W30 "Stop-Start" can often be found for $50 or less. And the regular everyday price for Valvoline SynPower 5W30 DX1 is $65, and down to ~$40 of sale. Regular price for full synthetic Shell Helix HX8 5W30 is $50.
Nothing wrong with M1, it's a good oil, but I can always find a Castrol / Valvoline / Shell full synthetic for less.
Yeah. I only do about 12,000/yr and just do a yearly change. Experience tells me the M1 will do what I need it to do. I've been looking slyly at the Castrol and also Penrite full synth, but just never seem to get around to making the switch. Penrite just seems to want me to put stupidly thick oil in it. I have M1 0W40 in it at the momemnt as a bit of a trial, but other than much higher oil pressure (and cost! It's never on sale and over $100/bottle) I don't notice a difference.
I had a guy on one of the Volvo sites hysterically waving his hands screaming that 5W30 was going to blow up my car (and he'd know, as he's a trained mechanic and has more tools than everyone else). 460,000KM on the clock says otherwise, but for a laugh I tried 0W40 at the last change. I'm going back to 5W30 this year. I figure I pick it up on sale, and even at $80 it's only once a year.
I use Amsoil in my compressor and lathe headstock though.
However, the full synthetic Castrol Magnatec 5W30 "Stop-Start" can often be found for $50 or less. And the regular everyday price for Valvoline SynPower 5W30 DX1 is $65, and down to ~$40 of sale. Regular price for full synthetic Shell Helix HX8 5W30 is $50.
Nothing wrong with M1, it's a good oil, but I can always find a Castrol / Valvoline / Shell full synthetic for less.
Yeah. I only do about 12,000/yr and just do a yearly change. Experience tells me the M1 will do what I need it to do. I've been looking slyly at the Castrol and also Penrite full synth, but just never seem to get around to making the switch. Penrite just seems to want me to put stupidly thick oil in it. I have M1 0W40 in it at the momemnt as a bit of a trial, but other than much higher oil pressure (and cost! It's never on sale and over $100/bottle) I don't notice a difference.
I had a guy on one of the Volvo sites hysterically waving his hands screaming that 5W30 was going to blow up my car (and he'd know, as he's a trained mechanic and has more tools than everyone else). 460,000KM on the clock says otherwise, but for a laugh I tried 0W40 at the last change. I'm going back to 5W30 this year. I figure I pick it up on sale, and even at $80 it's only once a year.
I use Amsoil in my compressor and lathe headstock though.
Yeah I know what you mean about once per year and cost.
It's easy to spend more than the price of a M1 oil change in just a week or two on petrol.
BTW Ducati 748, that is a nice looking bike.
It's easy to spend more than the price of a M1 oil change in just a week or two on petrol.
BTW Ducati 748, that is a nice looking bike.
Originally Posted By: SR5
Yeah I know what you mean about once per year and cost.
It's easy to spend more than the price of a M1 oil change in just a week or two on petrol.
That's the argument I make to myself every time there is a special on and I plonk down $70-80 on a bottle of oil. It's only once a year.
Originally Posted By: SR5
BTW Ducati 748, that is a nice looking bike.
Yes. Yes it is. The 95 was the first year of the 748 here and the only year with the original Cagiva livery. I like the 996, but the 748 is the one that really floats my boat.
Huh, whadda ya know. A motorcycle aware Volvo driver.
Yeah I know what you mean about once per year and cost.
It's easy to spend more than the price of a M1 oil change in just a week or two on petrol.
That's the argument I make to myself every time there is a special on and I plonk down $70-80 on a bottle of oil. It's only once a year.
Originally Posted By: SR5
BTW Ducati 748, that is a nice looking bike.
Yes. Yes it is. The 95 was the first year of the 748 here and the only year with the original Cagiva livery. I like the 996, but the 748 is the one that really floats my boat.
Huh, whadda ya know. A motorcycle aware Volvo driver.
Originally Posted By: Brad_C
the full synthetic Castrol Magnatec 5W30 "Stop-Start" can often be found for $50 or less.
This is currently on sale at Supercheap Auto for $28.59 for 5L which is why I started this thread because it's so cheap. I decided to go back today and get myself 8 bottles of the stuff after the advice here. I'll probably just drop my oil every 10,000kms now instead of the 15,000kms I was previously doing with the more expensive oil purely for piece of mind haha
the full synthetic Castrol Magnatec 5W30 "Stop-Start" can often be found for $50 or less.
This is currently on sale at Supercheap Auto for $28.59 for 5L which is why I started this thread because it's so cheap. I decided to go back today and get myself 8 bottles of the stuff after the advice here. I'll probably just drop my oil every 10,000kms now instead of the 15,000kms I was previously doing with the more expensive oil purely for piece of mind haha
It does sound like spectacular value (for oil in oz anyway). Be interested to see how you get on if you get any if it analysed.
Btw, that quote was SR5, not me. Not that it really matters.
Btw, that quote was SR5, not me. Not that it really matters.
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