Glock cleaning solution

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I should add that some folks "dunk" their Glocks in cleaning solutions like Slip 2000 to clean them. I haven't tried this, so I don't know how effective it is.
 
I don't use soap but I do use hot running water and a toothbrush on a detail stripped slide and frame. I use running hot water and a .40 caliber phosphor bronze bore brush on my 9mm barrel. My barrel is spotless inside, and I've been doing this for a couple years with no ill effects. The hotter the water the faster it evaporates. Use compressed air to blow the rest off before re-lubing with Mobil-1 15w-50.

Non-chlorinated brake cleaner is a great fouling remover as well, but it strips all lubrucation and can damage some plastics. Carburetor cleaner is great on stubborn carbon fouling in your barrel but it is even more harsh on plastic than brake cleaner is, and it leaves a bit of white powdery residue.
 
My biggest problem with my Glock is that I don't have any time/place to shoot it anymore. There is an indoor range in the city where I work, but it's usually packed with people.

I miss living out in the sticks where I could shoot in my back yard. Seeing as how I now live in the city in a 19-unit condominium complex, my neighbors might not like it if I decided to shoot in my back yard.
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Soak in Naphtha (Coleman Lantern fuel) and reoil with Purple Problem Solver . Neither affect plastics or finishes.
 
I'm a factory certified armorer for Remington, SIG, and Glock and I'd like to know just what in the **** loads you're shooting that you believe you need lantern fuel, carburetor cleaner, and/or brake cleaner to get the firearm "clean?"
 
Uh, I just checked my "firin pin" and I can easily see that no seizure is imminent!

You boys shooting lead bullets or reloads, by chance?
 
dk,

Now don't get your firin' pin all siezed up.
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I have no idea what loads "wavin" is using.

I use MY procedure to quickly clean my 586 and Ruger MarkII TM when I don't want to strip it down after shooting 250 rounds or more and it has worked very well. Of course, I remove the grips from all firearms before cleaning.

Can't speak for the others.
 
I've run just about every ammo under the sun through my Glock, & plain old soap & water always cleans it up real nice.
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I love my Glock......It will easily last longer than me.
 
quote:

Originally posted by dkryan:
Uh, I just checked my "firin pin" and I can easily see that no seizure is imminent!

You boys shooting lead bullets or reloads, by chance?


I shot 50 rounds of lead bullets through my Glock one time. It took me forever to clean the barrel.
 
The only lead cartridge I'll fire in my revolvers is the .38 caliber 158-grain +P lead semi-wadcutter hollowpoint. And Shooter's Choice bore cleaner always does a good job of getting the bore clean aferwards. I use jacketed bullets for the semi-autos.

I had more problems years ago using reloads with a slower burning Hercules powder. It left powder residue everywhere! Hence, the switch to Winchester 231 powder and significantly less cleaning time.
 
man, ive only put about 80 rounds through my new (slightly used from a police off.) G27 and I hardly had any deposits in my barrell or any on or around the slide etc.

now thats nothing but, i put like around 250 rounds w/out cleaning my 9mm Taurus PT111 and ive never had to 'soak' the firearm in any solution. just a good bore brush (bronze works best IMHO) and Remoil to clean and lube. I guess ammo is the culprit really.

also, what area(s) are you fellow Glock owners lubing? lastly, my G27 has a cooper like lubricant still on the internal guides for the 'slide'. I was told by the Glock retailer that its is the factory Glock lube. Looks just like the copper anti-seize stuff i used to use when i was a mechanic. Im now a police officer recruit (i start the acadamey [sic?] aug. 8) and i havent been taught the particulars of our glock 22's yet.

anyway, i was just curious and ill shut up now! thanks!
 
Leave the copper colored lube on there as long as you can, it's high quality stuff. I've used Militec 1 for years to lighly lubricate my firearms and I've had no problems in any environment.

Glock recommends that you lube the "rails" on the "receiver," which most of us normally call the frame. There are four small metal rails on the frame that are easily visible once the pistol is field-stripped for cleaning. I highly recommend using a good quality Q-tip, placing two drops of lubricant on the Q-tip, then applying the lube to the weapon using the Q-tip. It applies it evenly without the "quarter size drop of oil" running into all of the internals.

Also, look at the barrel once you've disassembled the pistol. You'll want to lubricate the "wear points" on the barrel lug. You'll notice the blued finish has worn in those areas, so again, use a Q-tip and apply the lube to those areas.

Good luck in the academy.
 
I put several 100 rounds through my 1911-a spec pistol (oil swabed the barrel every few mags) at one time and break cleaner gets it cleaner then when I bought it new.
Then military grease (forgot the mil spec) works real good on the slide and barrel.
The best stuff in the world is dry teflon spary, but I don't know where to get it any more.
 
I spray clean my Glock 17 with the common Birchwood/Casey cleaner from WalMart. It DRIES! I would never use a lube or cleaner with too much "creep" as it can kill a primer, and lead to dead ammo.

I use RIG +P grease on the slide.
 
quote:

Originally posted by oil pan 4:
I put several 100 rounds through my 1911-a spec pistol (oil swabed the barrel every few mags) at one time and break cleaner gets it cleaner then when I bought it new.
Then military grease (forgot the mil spec) works real good on the slide and barrel.
The best stuff in the world is dry teflon spary, but I don't know where to get it any more.


Be careful with the brake cleaner. Brake cleaner smells the same as Birchwood Casey's Gun Scrub, but can eat plastic pistol grips as my friend with a small Beretta 21 found out.
 
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