Gladiator 2020 3.6 Pentastar (Import from US to Germany) Oils and Advice

Run a good quality API SP 0w20 and that engine will last longer than you need it to.

I'm currently running Mobil 1 ESP X2 0w20 in mine. Otherwise I've mostly run Mobil 1 EP 0w20. I've run it from 20 below zero to 105 degrees and neither the engine nor the oil knows the difference. It shrugs it off and runs beautifully and reliably. I've got about 62k miles on it now.
 
Pretty much any oil you want. 0w-20 to 10w-40 it honestly doesn't matter much for it. If it were mine id just settle at 5w-30 and call it a day.
 
Trav gave you good advice about Castrol 0W30.
If you want to stay in 0W20 you can go any oil that has ACEA C2, A5 specification. You can even go Shell if you want to stay with Shell products (Pennzoil is SOPUS: Shell Oil Products United States).
 
A euro spec 5w30 or 0w30 would be what I would run. VW or Porsche C30 approved.
This right here !
You state that you will be running it hard and probably at some higher sustained speeds ?
This is the oil i would choose just for some perceived piece of mind ..
 
probably at some higher sustained speeds ?
Nah, I got the speed demon out of my system but we will run the Gladiator though offroad touring in Korsika and Serbia and it is tough. Korsika it's heckn hot. Local offroad parks are fun, but nothing that challneges the vehicles cooling or engine.
We try to stay at 75 mph (about 120km/h), we have run it at 100mph/ 160 km/h but just cause it can does not mean I will. We have the Mud Terrains on the Gladiator, and it just wasn`t designed to be a Autobahn tourer.
 
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Thank you all again, the input is great. Definitely many people are giving me things to think about.

We sure as heck will not run cheap stuff, I will try and find the highest quality that is still affordable. The Ravenol for example is not cheap by any means but I am happy to pay the 60/70€ if I know it is for quality.
 
Any thoughts on doing a test on the oil that is in there?
Will do an oil change soon.
Does it make any sense, the motor will obviously show all the indicators of a new engine, but might it catch if there is a manufacturing fault.
The vehicle runs flawless mechanically. Some of the electronics are struggling with the Tazer and some of the Uconnect functions don`t love not being connected to their network they are expecting it seems. Several apps and so on.
 
Diesel oil chemistry addresses holding soot and affording protection to parts enduring diesels' higher compression ratios. This is why your Dad stressed the importance of using the right oil. Diesel oil in petrol engines can be OK but not the other way. NO petrol engine oil in diesels.

Essentially overnight, friends got 2 Pentastar 3.6l engines. One in a '17 Jeep Grand Cherokee Ltd. (bought with 21K mi.) and the other in a '19 Dodge Grand Caravan (bought new).
I've read a bit about them but seriously, posts and questions on their respective boards focus more on dashboard toys and transmission questions.

Know that the oil filter housing is plastic and has a heat transfer unit down in the engine's valley. Many will point to a torque value for tightening the cap back down after changing the filter.

The cap and O-ring screw down predictably -you feel the O-ring compress into the bore and it resists all the way down- then "shoulders out". The two parts come to meet and stop. Yarning on it with a tool seems silly to many.

Also, the filter elements after 2014 have a redesigned extension (part of the bypass circuit) so avoid any odd bargains. The media part of an old style filter is dimensionally the same and will fit into the adaptor but it'd be wrong. Try counter-holding the housing so it doesn't flex.

Also, be aware that a leaking oil filter adaptor will fill the valley with over a quart of oil. This accumulated oil will slosh and appear to be a rear engine leak.

Also, there's an odd adaptor made to convert the filter to a spin on canister. These are a NOGO in my book as they add weight to the plastic adaptor and likely hasten its failure.

Which transmission did you get? Best of luck with your Stellantis....we used to say, "Best of luck with your new MOPAR" but that's so over.
 
luck with your Stellantis
ugh i know ... not a fan of the entire fca and stellantis deal, we still have our GC which is essentially a Jeep built in Graz with other Mercs. :cool:

I believe we have the ZF 8HP which is the 8 speed auto.
 
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I've read that the 8 speed is the one to have and that making it a 9 speed was a mistake. I've no supporting data.

The friend's '17 JGC bucked badly at 80 mph and threw a P0305 code (misfire cyl. #5). It was dismissed as "water in the fuel". I reminded him it had to do with cylinder #5 specifically because it came up repeatedly.

I haven't had the chance to drive the vehicle since. He says the problem is over.
I know he'll baby a car and hope it fixes itself as he fears repair bills.

Frankly, this time around, I won't volunteer changing a spark coil as the entire soap opera would become my responsibility.
I did learn that replacement coils are inexpensive.
 
he'll baby a car and hope it fixes itself
yeah that is not the solution and fixing itself, well if there is a car that can repair itself I will buy 10

we take care of the vehicles, but require them to do what they say on the brochure :), going easy so to not have an error is not our way for sure.
Rather try replicating it, figure out why and then fix it.
We will defnitely look out for anything like this, but are currently looking at prefilters and also catchcans availability in Europe as we are going to go into regions with bad fuel (water dirt).
would become my responsibility
that was a hard lesson for us, we still fall over to help others all the time and then get that feeling of responsibibility, especially when they then point and say hey but you did this and said it was good, ugh, I need to learn to say: no!
 
I've read that the 8 speed is the one to have and that making it a 9 speed was a mistake. I've no supporting data.

The friend's '17 JGC bucked badly at 80 mph and threw a P0305 code (misfire cyl. #5). It was dismissed as "water in the fuel". I reminded him it had to do with cylinder #5 specifically because it came up repeatedly.

I haven't had the chance to drive the vehicle since. He says the problem is over.
I know he'll baby a car and hope it fixes itself as he fears repair bills.

Frankly, this time around, I won't volunteer changing a spark coil as the entire soap opera would become my responsibility.
I did learn that replacement coils are inexpensive.
The ZF8 and ZF9 could not be more different.
 
As with many new cars, I'd assume the fuel filter in in the tank and is unserviceable.
A quick look turned up no fuel filter listed for your vehicle. I'm not saying it isn't serviceable; just that I found none with a fast search.

The few of these in-tank filters I've seen are large and likely designed to be sloshed against so dirt doesn't gather on them. If I was taking a vehicle so equipped into locations with questionable fuel I too would add an in-line filter.

I told my pal to identify the headlight bulb used in his JGC and to buy a 2-pack when found on sale. Don't be insulted if this seems obvious.

In fact, here's the list of things I noted when he got the vehicle. See if any apply to you.

1) He has the 845RE 8-speed transmission. Mopar ZF 8&9 Speed ATF p/n 68218925AA ~$30 / quart. “Lifeguard” is a good aftermarket brand.

2) 2016 - up have electric PS. No PS fluid. I ASSUME YOU HAVE ELECTRIC STEERING TOO.

3) 2013 - up use a 50/50 mix of purple OAT (Organic Additive Technology) coolant.

4) This 3.6l V6 is Chrysler's first to use 12mm plugs. 11 to 15 ft. lbs. torque. NO HIGHER. Over-tightening can warp plugs.
Champion RER8ZWYCB4 is the OE plug. 0.043" gaps AND 0.040" gaps were listed for various plugs SO DOUBLE CHECK GAP.

5) Alternators look like usual ones so they're not "reversible polarity ones" -which are bigger.
Verify the car has one of the other restart systems.

6) There's an EGR COOLER ! It's a foot long chamber. It’s not inexpensive. Does it have a lifespan? DO YOU HAVE ONE?

7) PCV valve replacement @ 60,000 mi. or 48 months.

8) It's got coil-over-plug and they're not expensive. That's good news.

9) The Haynes Manual is #50026.
10) Mopar block heater (std. in Canada) available. Sets against block, not in the water jacket.

11) Determine which Cruise Control it has. There are 4.
Standard, Adaptive, Adaptive with STOP Feature and Adaptive with headlight dimming.

12) Learn how long factory shocks last and pray you don't have air $hock$. Towing anything requires good shocks at the least.

13) Learn what headlights you have and buy a pair of lows. The fronts of these vehicles are commonly removed for bulb replacement. Also, engine air intake hoses commonly impede that side's bulb change. You can include an air filter inspection when a bulb replacement occurs on the intake side of the engine bay.

14) There's a large black plastic thermostat / sensor / hose mount assembly (as many engines do today).
Learn if it's one that breaks often and if a metal replacement available.

15) One 21" and one 22" wiper blade. Gotta check what style. Don't assume normal….there are 2 or 3 normal styles.
16) See how your back-up camera works in the dark. There are both inner and outer reverse lights….YES, 2 reverse lights per side.
LED reverse lamps are available (duh). HOW MANY REVERSE LIGHTS DO YOU HAVE?

17) See if it has a blocked-off transmission dipstick tube. You can make a dipstick from an old wiper reinforcement rib.

18) Rear heater? Check for coolant pipe "T"s feeding a rear heating system. They can split. They're improved but not perfected.
The DGC has similar plastic “Y’s” for which metal replacements are available.

19) Check your spare tire equipment. What do you have?

20) Lug = M14 X 1.5

21) Rejoice! The AC's blend doors, gears and actuators can be accessed and replaced. Check RA for parts examples

22) Mobil1 has added the Chrysler MS-6395 spec to it's bottles. Penzoil, Valvoline and others have this spec oil too.

23) REJOICE! Rear trailer hitches require "no drilling". Ergo, there are holes (threaded or not) awaiting you.
24) REJOICE ! A stainless steel bull bar (Aries) is available for $207 on RA should you want one.
25) Beware that these vehicles are sensitive to aging batteries...like so many others today.

26) Check your headrests. I believe they’re of the automatic, “anti-whiplash” type.
 
As with many new cars, I'd assume the fuel filter in in the tank and is unserviceable.
A quick look turned up no fuel filter listed for your vehicle. I'm not saying it isn't serviceable; just that I found none with a fast search.

The few of these in-tank filters I've seen are large and likely designed to be sloshed against so dirt doesn't gather on them. If I was taking a vehicle so equipped into locations with questionable fuel I too would add an in-line filter.

I told my pal to identify the headlight bulb used in his JGC and to buy a 2-pack when found on sale. Don't be insulted if this seems obvious.

In fact, here's the list of things I noted when he got the vehicle. See if any apply to you.

1) He has the 845RE 8-speed transmission. Mopar ZF 8&9 Speed ATF p/n 68218925AA ~$30 / quart. “Lifeguard” is a good aftermarket brand.

2) 2016 - up have electric PS. No PS fluid. I ASSUME YOU HAVE ELECTRIC STEERING TOO.

3) 2013 - up use a 50/50 mix of purple OAT (Organic Additive Technology) coolant.

4) This 3.6l V6 is Chrysler's first to use 12mm plugs. 11 to 15 ft. lbs. torque. NO HIGHER. Over-tightening can warp plugs.
Champion RER8ZWYCB4 is the OE plug. 0.043" gaps AND 0.040" gaps were listed for various plugs SO DOUBLE CHECK GAP.

5) Alternators look like usual ones so they're not "reversible polarity ones" -which are bigger.
Verify the car has one of the other restart systems.

6) There's an EGR COOLER ! It's a foot long chamber. It’s not inexpensive. Does it have a lifespan? DO YOU HAVE ONE?

7) PCV valve replacement @ 60,000 mi. or 48 months.

8) It's got coil-over-plug and they're not expensive. That's good news.

9) The Haynes Manual is #50026.
10) Mopar block heater (std. in Canada) available. Sets against block, not in the water jacket.

11) Determine which Cruise Control it has. There are 4.
Standard, Adaptive, Adaptive with STOP Feature and Adaptive with headlight dimming.

12) Learn how long factory shocks last and pray you don't have air $hock$. Towing anything requires good shocks at the least.

13) Learn what headlights you have and buy a pair of lows. The fronts of these vehicles are commonly removed for bulb replacement. Also, engine air intake hoses commonly impede that side's bulb change. You can include an air filter inspection when a bulb replacement occurs on the intake side of the engine bay.

14) There's a large black plastic thermostat / sensor / hose mount assembly (as many engines do today).
Learn if it's one that breaks often and if a metal replacement available.

15) One 21" and one 22" wiper blade. Gotta check what style. Don't assume normal….there are 2 or 3 normal styles.
16) See how your back-up camera works in the dark. There are both inner and outer reverse lights….YES, 2 reverse lights per side.
LED reverse lamps are available (duh). HOW MANY REVERSE LIGHTS DO YOU HAVE?

17) See if it has a blocked-off transmission dipstick tube. You can make a dipstick from an old wiper reinforcement rib.

18) Rear heater? Check for coolant pipe "T"s feeding a rear heating system. They can split. They're improved but not perfected.
The DGC has similar plastic “Y’s” for which metal replacements are available.

19) Check your spare tire equipment. What do you have?

20) Lug = M14 X 1.5

21) Rejoice! The AC's blend doors, gears and actuators can be accessed and replaced. Check RA for parts examples

22) Mobil1 has added the Chrysler MS-6395 spec to it's bottles. Penzoil, Valvoline and others have this spec oil too.

23) REJOICE! Rear trailer hitches require "no drilling". Ergo, there are holes (threaded or not) awaiting you.
24) REJOICE ! A stainless steel bull bar (Aries) is available for $207 on RA should you want one.
25) Beware that these vehicles are sensitive to aging batteries...like so many others today.

26) Check your headrests. I believe they’re of the automatic, “anti-whiplash” type.
I will work through the list later in more details and report back.
Headlights are LED so if they break it will be fun and expensive.
I have a torque wrench on standby just for that sorta thing.
As far as trans fluids go ATF etc. I have ordered the Mopar recommended.
We can talk to ZF in Friedrichshafen directly easily as they are partly responsible for the trans and can also do all maintenance on it well.
We have the high output alternator because start and stop, easy to replace however.
Reverse camera works well with the reverse lights, one of the outer is not working currently and Tazer (programming tool) disables the lights for the number plate to avoid the reflection.
We have a full sized spare on original rim, will do 5 tire rotation at 3500 miles.
Battery I already have a headache with the aux/ start stop battery. Continuously states charging. Start stop is disabled through Tazer
We have trailer hitch and steel bumper, adding a bullbar is a pain in Germany
 
" ....will do 5 tire rotation at 3500 miles." A man after my own heart.
".. adding a bullbar is a pain in Germany." External aftermarket stuff frowned upon?
Big time frowned upon. With the bullbar they cited pedestrians safety. I am a jeep on 33s with a factory ( they can't argue if its factory or if it is used as an equipment carrier for example a snow plow) steel bumper.... not sure the pedestrian has any better chance being hit by me either which way🤣
 
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