Getting The Differential Inspection Plug Out

[c3po]

I have a 1983 Chevrolet El Camino that I was going to change the differential fluid. I went to loosen the differential plug, on my car it also lets you check the level as well as adding new differential fluid.

1) I could not get it loose
2) Dad's friend said to get a breaker bar
3) My breaker bar is a 3/4 and I need a 3/8, but I do have an adapter.

4) Dad's friend who used to be a mechanic said not to use a penetrant.

I had this thing on a lift, I had a 3/8 ratchet and small extension that fit into the differential plug, and I mean this thing was not moving.

I am almost inclined into getting 1 of those aluminum covers that has the drain hole on the bottom and the fill hole up top. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[Doc_03]

I am a mechanic and if I can't get a bolt or plug or something like that i use penetrant then heat, heat like propane. if you are changeing the fluid it wont matter what you do

 

[Pablo]

Use penetrant. Heat it and cool it a few times. Tap on it, ring it really with a ball peen hammer...

Use at least a 1/2" with a pipe extension. It will come loose.

 

[PandaBear]

PB Blaster (penetrant) a few hours prior to trying. It works great for me. Try not to get it to rubber parts though.

 

[chrome]

A 2' breaker bar and the right adapter will get it loose. The 3/8" ratchet you are using is not giving you enough leverage for sure.

 

[labman]

if somebody can dig this out of the archive it has some good stuff in it, http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=24;t=000035#000000

 

[alreadygone]

Guys, those threads are pipe threads. They are tapered, the threads in the hole are tapered. The tighter they're run down the less chance of liquids leaking past. When they're that tight no penetrant in the world is going to make one iota of difference.

Get a piece of thick wall plumbing pipe 1/2", 3/4", 1" depending which will fit over breakover (or ratchet if your'e really feeling daring) a foot to eighteen inches long. Then get back under there and put some muscle onto that cheater pipe. when you make up your mind it's coming out, no matter how many of the neighobors tools you have to break, the actual chore will get much easier.

Make sure extension or whatever is actually in hole of plug, goes all the way in. If hole has dirt, or extension has rounded end to make it easier to get a socket on, there's a good chance you'll round the shoulders of the plug off!!!! Then the pooch is really screwed!

Bob

 

[Pablo]

Quote:
when you make up your mind it's coming out, no matter how many of the neighobors tools you have to break,

 

[Vspec]

Had the same issue once, was really busting balls trying to get the rear drainplug removed.

Eventually positioned the breaker bar downwards and slowly lowered the car down onto the breaker bar so the weight of the car pushed against the breaker bar and broke it loose that way.

Just be sure to be careful.

 

[XS650]

Originally Posted By: Vspec
Had the same issue once, was really busting balls trying to get the rear drainplug removed.

Eventually positioned the breaker bar downwards and slowly lowered the car down onto the breaker bar so the weight of the car pushed against the breaker bar and broke it loose that way.

Just be sure to be careful.


And be sure to take the fill plug out before the drain plug. Sounds like the OP only had one plug though.

 

[Chris142]

If it's the type of plug that you stick your 3/8's ratchet in to to turn it make sure that you clean all the dirt and old grease out of the hole before you put your ratchet in it.

 

[c3po]

I want to thank everyone for the great responses, it's after midnite so I will be tackling this tommorow.

Now if and when I get it out tommorow is it a good idea for me too:

1) Clean the threads
2) Clean the plug
3) Put some anti-seize on the threads

I know this is off topic but I will ask it anyway, are those differential covers that are aluminum and have a drain plug in the front as well as a spot up top to squeeze the gear lube in any good. This is what I have read, so tell me if it is true or not:

1) The differential will run cooler
2) Since it is strong aluminum the rearend will not flex like it would with a stamped steel piece.
3) There is less of a chance of leaks.

Tell me what you think since these aluminum differential covers go for $100.00 or more.

 

[Shannow]

Originally Posted By: XS650
And be sure to take the fill plug out before the drain plug. Sounds like the OP only had one plug though.


Excellent advice.

On my 4Runner, I had the drain plug loos, and mostly unscrewed before I stopped, and thought about the fill.

Was one of those stupid Toyota six sided, but with a recessed centre on it, and no way was it coming out, due to previous butchery.

Took it to the local gearbox bloke, who put it on a hoist, fitted a huge breaker bar, with another bloke holding a pinchbar to keep it engaged on the plug.

 

[mechtech2]

Use 'loose juice'. Wait.
Put your 3/8' extension in there, and hit it with a hammer.
the use your breaker bar on it to remove the plug.
If this doesn't work - use heat. More and faster is better.

 

[Shannow]

Seriously, if it comes out with a 3/8" drive, it was never stuck in the first place.

 

[moribundman]

Turning the wrench counterclockwise usually helps.

 

[Lazy JW]

Originally Posted By: moribundman
Turning the wrench counterclockwise usually helps.

Good point. Lefty loosey, righty tighty.

I have one of those hammer-type impact driver gizmos; it's just the ticket for those stubborn things that don't want to come loose. Just stick it in the hole and give it a good smack with a 3-lb doublejack and it will come sailing right out of there. I learned about them back in the 70's when I was working on [censored] motorcycles that had those miserable aluminum Philips head screws. Seemed like the impact driver was about the only way to get those loose without stripping.
Joe

 

[Gary Allan]

Great tool once you learn how to use it properly.

 

[alreadygone]

Originally Posted By: Shannow
Seriously, if it comes out with a 3/8" drive, it was never stuck in the first place.


Shannow, this is a recessed 3/8 type plug. Problem's not so much raw torque, as likelyhood it's gonna strip the flats and round off.

One of the worlds greatest fans of impact drivers, but this isn't the application. These plugs don't just "break loose" the tapered thread aspect means when overtightened, they have to be turned 2-4 complete rounds before becoming hand-to-finger loose.

If available, M-tech's heat suggestion is very appropriate.

bob

 

[c3po]

Guys, I got it off, here is what I did:

1) Cleaned the area with Brakleen
2)Put some penetrant on
3) Tried breaker bar, it did not work well untightening it
4) I got a 1/2 ratchet with an adapter for a small 3/8 extension and it came out.
5) I cleaned the threads real well and put it back in, but I did not tighten it like the Incredible Hulk would have.

I put it back together because I would not have been able to get the gear lube in using the gear lube bottle, this is because I have dual exhaust and the pipe is in the way.

I will have to get that thing from Amsoil that screws onto an Amsoil Gear Lube bottle and pump it in.

My plug that I took out has seen better days is this something I can pick up at the hardware store.

The Amsoil Gear Lube has been in there for 100,000 miles and the little bit that I got on my finger looked brand new. This is some pretty good gear lube.

I am glad that I read what alreadygone wrote, you definetly do not want to use an impact wrench on these things.

Does anyone know if they make this inspection bolt in something other than a 3/8 recessed plug. Do they make a plug that you can put a socket over the plug, like a 1/2 or 9/16 socket.