Drew's right. Running a higher pressure may buy you a little better gas mileage and maybe a little better shoulder life, but while his dental work may not like the rougher ride (and that's a shame), the wear and tear resulting from shock imparted to every component and bushing in your suspension is the real downside to maximum pressures. Tires are cheaper than front end rebuilds, and the CV joints, engine mounts and all the other rubber-mounted soft points don't care for high tire pressures either. The manufacturer engineers these things to a spec, and things go out of kilter when you stray from said specs.
Keep the pressures to spec, don't let them drift down in the cold and rotate em every now and then. I don't do mine every 5k, but rather when I see a difference between front and rear. Then I flip em, they "catch up" to one another, front/rear, and then rotate em again. They'll last longer than not rotating, but this is a good method to balance it out and perhaps saves a little wear and tear on the lugs, nuts and wheels..
Keep the pressures to spec, don't let them drift down in the cold and rotate em every now and then. I don't do mine every 5k, but rather when I see a difference between front and rear. Then I flip em, they "catch up" to one another, front/rear, and then rotate em again. They'll last longer than not rotating, but this is a good method to balance it out and perhaps saves a little wear and tear on the lugs, nuts and wheels..
