its own Wikipedia page! Oh, by the way, I started using GC in my wife's Maxima today for the first time and it sounds and runs great. Anyone think I'd be alright to use it in my 94 Bronco w/ the 302? Engine was rebuilt about 30k miles ago.
German Castrol needs...
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Castrol needs to make a splash marketing this oil. I'm sure there are many car nuts out there that would use this oil if they knew about it. Not everyone knows about BITOG.
It also needs to be available across the market at all A/Z's.
David
It also needs to be available across the market at all A/Z's.
David
And what is it going to say? That "Made in Germany" is better than "Made in USA"? Yeah... keep dreaming.
According to Castrol, the two oils are exactly the same. That's their story and they're sticking to it.
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And what is it going to say? That "Made in Germany" is better than "Made in USA"? Yeah... keep dreaming.
According to Castrol, the two oils are exactly the same. That's their story and they're sticking to it.
Does VOA back up this claim? If not, then we should all raise Holy #@$%!. BTW, I have never seen 0W-30 Castrol that did not say "made in Germany" or "European Car Formula"
Believe me, it's out there. Dusty bottles of pre-GC Syntec 0W-30 which was "Made in America". I've seen it with my own two eyes on several AutoZone shelves.
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No....not unless you wish to rebuild it again...
GC should be a fine choice for a Ford 302. Why do you say not ? Mine is an '89 with 149k miles..
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No....not unless you wish to rebuild it again...
GC should be a fine choice for a Ford 302. Why do you say not ? Mine is an '89 with 149k miles..
I wouldnt' use anything less than a 5w in a US made V8 because of the advice I have received from engine design engineers in Detroit. Just an opinion. The euro cars need a 0w because of the tolerances in their engines. And some US engines probably run fine...but you are taking a big chance IMO.
Those engine designers mentioned need to take a refresher course in motor oils. And you (KBFXDLI) need to forget what they told you, learn for yourself from literature, and stop spreading bad information that some new people might believe. You are spouting off this junk in so many threads.
+1!
You are talking about some of the leading piston and engine design engineers in the US auto industry...this is not junk. This is the truth. After reading about this 0w30 GC in this forum I made a point to specifically ask 5 seperate sr. design specialists at 3 OEM's about this and ALL 5 disagreed. So what am I to say other than maybe you guys are right but if so why doesn't the automotive industry accept your teachings?
I don't know the tolerances..I only know that I have been told that the 0w doesn't have enough fluid film that remains on the cylinder walls to keep a protective barrier after the engine is shut down and the remaining oil flows to the pan. Upon start up...excessive wear can occur. The 5w has enough and 2 of the engineers felt a 10w was even better to protect long term.
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You are talking about some of the leading piston and engine design engineers in the US auto industry...this is not junk. This is the truth. After reading about this 0w30 GC in this forum I made a point to specifically ask 5 seperate sr. design specialists at 3 OEM's about this and ALL 5 disagreed. So what am I to say other than maybe you guys are right but if so why doesn't the automotive industry accept your teachings?
The industry as a whole does. Apparently there are some in the industy who don't.
An oil that thick at cold temps but same viscosity at hot temps does not appreciably increase the amount of oil left on parts after the engine is shut off. Most drainage occurs when oil is hottest and thinnest. When you shut it off, both oils drain at the same rate. As it cools, the one that thickens faster as temp drops will drain off at a slower rate, but it's insignificant. Give it a few hours, and when you start it up again, the oil that's thinner will have essentially the same amount of oil on upper engine parts and WILL pump faster to those parts. Start up wear lasts from turning of the key until full operating temps are reached. It's much more than a couple second event, though it is worst in the first few seconds.
GC is thicker at almost every temp (except extreme negative temps) than most 5W-30 and 10W-30 synthetic oils, so even if the theory that these engineers are stating is correct, GC would be better in this regard. This is a downside, actually but you can't have it all with oils. GC doesn't use polymeric viscosity index improvers and has a high HTHS viscosity for a 30-weight oil. That's the reason it's thicker than most other XW-30 oils at almost every temp. The lack of viscosity index improvers give it almost 100% shear stability and high HTHS viscosity. It's PAO basestocks are what make it flow relatively well at extreme negative temps. It's top notch in many applications/engines where the oil is run hard and hot and sheared like crazy. It's not a fuel economy oil or an oil for grandma's car to drive 1 mile to the grocery store.
Why don't automakers always spec 0W-X oils for gas engines? That would virtually eliminate mineral oil from the basestocks and thereby pisz-off the big basestock-making companies (they'll fight it), and raise the price of oil that people have to buy (they'll complain).
I' would'nt call it teachings, incantations, or mystic phrases - it's the physical properties of the fluid.
People look at 0W and automatically assume it implies less viscosity over the entire temperature range that the oil sees, and this simply is not true.
Without any type of documented evidence (and I seriously doubt there is) the engine experts are simply going off of pre-conceived notions. Not trying to flame here but at the very least entertain the idea that GC is in a whole other ballpark both in oil & grade. Listen to some of the veterans of GC Elfdom (JAG) because they speak from experience as well as documented evidence.
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I wouldnt' use anything less than a 5w in a US made V8 because of the advice I have received from engine design engineers in Detroit. Just an opinion. The euro cars need a 0w because of the tolerances in their engines. And some US engines probably run fine...but you are taking a big chance IMO.
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Without any type of documented evidence (and I seriously doubt there is) the engine experts are simply going off of pre-conceived notions. Not trying to flame here but at the very least entertain the idea that GC is in a whole other ballpark both in oil & grade. Listen to some of the veterans of GC Elfdom (JAG) because they speak from experience as well as documented evidence.
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I wouldnt' use anything less than a 5w in a US made V8 because of the advice I have received from engine design engineers in Detroit. Just an opinion. The euro cars need a 0w because of the tolerances in their engines. And some US engines probably run fine...but you are taking a big chance IMO.
The documented evidence is printed on my oil cap...and through thousands of hydrodynamic fluid film computer models and perhaps hundreds of millions of miles of experience at GM,Ford & DCX. My point is that they maintain that throughout the life and average temperature ranges a v8 engine will encounter a 5 or 10 weight oil leaves a better and more consistent fluid film layer on the cylinder wall than does a 0w oil. You guys all answer with words like "confused" or "old school" or "viscosity". You really need to understand that 5wXX is the current standard for American automobiles. You notion that 0wXX is just as good is a theory......based on some UOA's and your interpretation of data. This just happens to fly in the face of the World's largest automotive manufacturers experts that you dismiss as idiots....then accuse me of spreading misguided information.
SO, my question is this: How can you prove that 0w leaves a fluid film on the cylinder wall of an engine that is as good as or better than a 5w once that engine is shut off?
I really want to hear this... not kidding
I for one am not accusing your engineer comrades as idiots. And as for the film issue for 0w vs. 5w I believe that has already been resolved in this particular forum...whereas data had indicated that GC is as thick as, if not thicker, than a comparable M1 5w-30. Other than this evidence, any other "proving" is well beyond the scope of this forum. This may not provide you with any type of consolation but it does give you some insight into the other side of the story.
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The documented evidence is printed on my oil cap...and through thousands of hydrodynamic fluid film computer models and perhaps hundreds of millions of miles of experience at GM,Ford & DCX. My point is that they maintain that throughout the life and average temperature ranges a v8 engine will encounter a 5 or 10 weight oil leaves a better and more consistent fluid film layer on the cylinder wall than does a 0w oil. You guys all answer with words like "confused" or "old school" or "viscosity". You really need to understand that 5wXX is the current standard for American automobiles. You notion that 0wXX is just as good is a theory......based on some UOA's and your interpretation of data. This just happens to fly in the face of the World's largest automotive manufacturers experts that you dismiss as idiots....then accuse me of spreading misguided information.
SO, my question is this: How can you prove that 0w leaves a fluid film on the cylinder wall of an engine that is as good as or better than a 5w once that engine is shut off?
I really want to hear this... not kidding
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