GC Too thick?
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Sounds like everyone loves GC too much to admit that it may be the problem.
I think we have to trust the guy when he says that nothing changed at the onset of the symptoms except for the oil. He obviously knows how to do a tune-up and reset the ECM so let's give him the benefit of the doubt.
The apparent answer to this non-oil expert would be to switch to an oil that is thicker, or has a higher w number.
P.S. Are you sure it's not the tire pressure?
I think we have to trust the guy when he says that nothing changed at the onset of the symptoms except for the oil. He obviously knows how to do a tune-up and reset the ECM so let's give him the benefit of the doubt.
The apparent answer to this non-oil expert would be to switch to an oil that is thicker, or has a higher w number.
P.S. Are you sure it's not the tire pressure?
I highly doubt the issue is the GC 0w30 here. There may be a lubrication problem, accentuated by thicker/thinner oil, but I'd be looking many other places for the cause of a rough running cold engine before looking at the oil of a well maintained engine.
GC is without question one of the best oils available. Might even be the best 0w-30 on the market. Just because some engines don't respond well to it, which is a small %, doesn't mean there is something wrong with it. Some engine just like thin oils and some like thicker oils.
You have an non-oil related problem. Things like dash pot,idle air contol motor/actuator/valve should take take of this. It could be nay number of things though. You should be able to put 60 wt in the engine and not have it want to stall because of viscosity at summer temps!Look for another problem beside oil. GC will pump at -84F if it was going to cause you any issues it would be at cold starts in the winter. This oil has already proven itself through Canadian winter!
GooD Luck!
GooD Luck!
From the sounds of your problem, I would clean the idle air control valve. These are usually problems every so often, and can effect both cold and warm idle quality depending on how badly they are fouled.
The problem only exists in the first 30-60 seconds of startup when cold.
If i let it run for a minute or so after cold-start, then shut it off, restart it, there's no issues at all.
I have not taken a code scanner and verified proper opration of the IACV/IAT/TPS/MAP since about 64K, but I have no reason to believe that they are not functioning and at 64K they were functioning normally. Usually if one of those are bad on a honda there are other symtpoms as well.
Rain here tonight, so I wont get to changing the filter until tomorrow.
Should I be concerned about this noise and look into another brand of oil?
If this is something I just have to monitor with UOA's to watch for wear numbers? The car doesnt see much street use other than driving to the track, so I'm not worried about cold starts every day.
Yes, I think you should be concerned. The problem may eventually impact more than just the cold start. I think you should try to identify the problem before changing the oil.
Other than a bad ADBV in the oil filter, all the more I think you don't have oil related problems. Even then, it shouldn't take more than about 5 seconds to get oil pressurized into the main oil gallery. Too bad you don't have a good oil pressure gauge on the thing...that would leave no doubt to look elsewhere.
I can't help myself. A 0W30 that's "too thick?"
Actually, we've seen most Japanese auto makers spec a 5-40 for temps over 20C, so there should not be a problem with the 0-30.
What I've noticed is you need to allow cleaning to occur (and it takes many miles and OCI's)....especially when going to a thicker viscosity after many mi. of a thinner one. The peppiness will return after several thousands of miles...or you could use auto-rx.
What I've noticed is you need to allow cleaning to occur (and it takes many miles and OCI's)....especially when going to a thicker viscosity after many mi. of a thinner one. The peppiness will return after several thousands of miles...or you could use auto-rx.
Ever seen the person whos car wont start and all they know how to do is check the oil?
Or the person who tries to jump their car after it stalls on the highway and it is cranking fine?
Or the person who tries to jump their car after it stalls on the highway and it is cranking fine?
Which Japanese automaker specs for 5w-40?
Thats what I'm worried about... I initially filled with GC at 61,600 miles, the car now has 67,800 or so. I changed the oil last week, it was my 4th oil change with GC (I change oil every other track weekend).
Whats auto-rx? I ran a can of this through on my last oil change: hmsmotorsport.com/store.php?m=35&sub=1340&method=cat&thisPage=1&PHPSESSID=060b5a6cf424ea86b97bab230f4e4e0c#1522
[ June 16, 2004, 11:02 PM: Message edited by: rugerman1 ]
Yeah, but I'm not one of those...... I grew up around cars and working on my own since I had one, and I crew for an enduro race team (SCCA).
I'm going to change the filter and check the drain back valve on this one. Maybe I just got a bum filter.... If not, i'll keep looking at other things.
[ June 16, 2004, 08:00 AM: Message edited by: RJ_ITR ]
That's OK, when it comes to GC, lot's of folks can't seem to help themselves (that would include me -- I'm trying it too).quote:
Originally posted by sprintman:
I can't help myself. A 0W30 that's "too thick?"
And as strange as it may seem, "a 0w-30 that's 'too thick?'" seems to me to be a workable description of GC, at least as it performs in my '03 Camry with the VVT V-6. I get some roughness and stumbling on a cold start, which never happened with M-1 or Amsoil ASL, and this goes away after maybe 30 seconds. And I'm experiencing an average 2-3 mpg fuel economy loss. While there may be other explanations, these symptoms seem to be to be indicative of an oil that's on the thick side of what my engine really wants to be fed. I'm drawing no firm conclusions yet as my GC experiment is far from over. It does seem to be a bit of an oil oxymoron, but perhaps GC 0w-30 is just a bit too thick. . .
Guys oil can't be thiner than 0W rating...
I wonder how you car behaves when you have 5W or 10W oil in it then?
GC is thicker(then average 30 weight)when warmed up...
I wonder how you car behaves when you have 5W or 10W oil in it then?
GC is thicker(then average 30 weight)when warmed up...
The answer in most cases seems to be "better." I believe GC is thick when compared to most other synthetics at temps other than very low ones. The viscosity vs. temperature *curve* is exaclty that. It's not a straight line...
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