GC Too thick?

Messages
23
Location
NoVa
I'm using GC Syntec in my car now, and had a UOA done here: http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=001609#000000 . I just pulled one more sample to send off from the last oil change to see if it still looks good. The problem I'm having is that on cold start, even now in the summer in Va, I'm getting alot of NVH (including some light knocking) from the motor, and it doesnt seem to want to rev up at all. If i tip the throttle just a bit (to 1500rpm) and then let off quickly, the RPM will drop down below idle, and seems like the motor wants to stall before it comes back to correct idle speed. I usually let it idle for about a minute before I take off, and then warm the engine up slowly. Its pretty smooth once its warmed all the way up. Gas mileage seems average for this car, about 31mpg on the highway. Is this cold start issue something I should be concerned about? Should I look into other oils? The car sees alot of track use, and replacement/rebuilds on these motors isnt cheap - I'd just like to keep it running well [Smile] I have seen a few posts on this issue here, but it doesnt seems like most of the people that experience this just changed oils. If i go that route, what would be recommended? Motul Ester 8100? 300v? I'm using Motul brake/gearbox fluid and i've been very happy with them. Thanks! [ June 15, 2004, 10:25 AM: Message edited by: RJ_ITR ]
 
Messages
8,937
Location
SC
At typical summertime temps, GC is going to be about the same thickness as most other Xw30 oils, maybe just a tad thicker. It could be that your particular engine just doesn't "like" this oil. GC is a great oil, but it's not the perfect oil for every engine by any means.
 

2x

Messages
67
Location
Massachusetts
I have a 99 Civic, and I had some of the same issues. Cold starts were never a problem. When fully warm the car was very smooth with the oil. Problem was the car was very sluggish and gas mileage dropped. My idea is that GC works best for cars that like high 30's -50 weights like many German/Euro rides and does not fare as well in Japanese and other Asian cars that call for lighter weight oils, especially 4cyl. Some here have had good results with Japanese 4 cyl's and GC, but there was a thread earlier in regards to this and those who did report issues with this oil were usually Honda/Toyota people. I think Honda also now recomends 5w-20 for your car, so they are going lighter while GC is going the other way, being a thick 30 weight.
 

RJ_ITR

Thread starter
Messages
23
Location
NoVa
Well, the factory recommendation is 5w30 for these, and they run pretty tight clearances from the factory. I'm just worried about most oils being able to hold up to track abuse. I'd rather spend a bit more $$ on oil than alot of $$$$$$$$$$ on an engine.
 

Patman

Staff member
Messages
21,994
Location
Oakville, Ontario
quote:
Originally posted by 2x: I have a 99 Civic, and I had some of the same issues. Cold starts were never a problem. When fully warm the car was very smooth with the oil. Problem was the car was very sluggish and gas mileage dropped.
My wife has a 2000 Civic so it's the same engine as yours, and since the switch to GC her engine seems less sluggish, especially at low to midrange rpms it is more responsive. Gas mileage is definitely not down from this time last year, it's the same to a tiny bit higher actually. Even if the engine had lost responsiveness though, I'd keep using it, since it's showing very low engine wear in my cars.
 
Messages
706
Location
Boynton Beach FL.
[Roll Eyes] I would check the injectors cause my truck acted like that even though it didn't use any extra gas. The next thing that happened is I started getting fuel in the oil and the check eng light came on. This may be way off just a thought. [I dont know]
 

RJ_ITR

Thread starter
Messages
23
Location
NoVa
UOA didnt show any fuel in the oil..... (well, <0.5), And I use BG44K every oil change or so.
 
Messages
1,488
Location
Los Angeles
If your UOA looks ok why change? [I dont know] You should do a third run with GC and look at the wear numbers and then make a decision. I have not seen a bad UOA with GC.
 
Messages
34,155
Location
Southern NJ
quote:
It could be that your particular engine just doesn't "like" this oil
Yep, thats exactly right. If we've learned anything on here it's that their is no one size fits all/best oil out their for ALL cars. You have find what works best for you. My car felt very sluggish on D1. I'm about to switch to AFL and see how that is. Just depends on the car.
 
Messages
799
Location
Washington, DC
Outside of US they spec thicker viscosites...My Mazda recomends 5/10W-30 here but in rest of the world xxW-40 weight is recomended... So thick 30 or even 40 should be fine especially in the summer. GC should flow better than any 5/10W weight at start so I don't see why would GC cause any of you r idle speed problems at starting? I think you might have problem with you idle speed control..when you first start car it usually should idle high(1500 rpm) and then gradualy come down...is this how your car did before GC? [ June 15, 2004, 01:04 PM: Message edited by: zoomzoom ]
 
Messages
40,640
Location
Great Lakes
quote:
Originally posted by 2x: Which Japanese automaker specs for 5w-40?
In the US, none of them do for CAFE reasons, but outside of North America - most of them do.
 

RJ_ITR

Thread starter
Messages
23
Location
NoVa
quote:
Originally posted by zoomzoom: I think you might have problem with you idle speed control..when you first start car it usually should idle high(1500 rpm) and then gradualy come down...is this how your car did before GC?
This happens *only* when i tap the throttle lightly. After it stumbles, it returns to normal. Problem does not happen when the engine has been idling for a minute or so, or when warm.
 
Messages
1,116
Location
Huntsville, AL
I would suspect a fuel injector problem that is heat related. Whenever you open the throttle there should be an extra squirt of gas. Accelerator pumps in carbs used to do that to cover the 'hole' or lean condition. Maybe try a bottle of Techron in your gas.
 

RJ_ITR

Thread starter
Messages
23
Location
NoVa
quote:
Originally posted by glxpassat: I would suspect a fuel injector problem that is heat related.
This only happens when the motor is dead cold
quote:
Whenever you open the throttle there should be an extra squirt of gas. Accelerator pumps in carbs used to do that to cover the 'hole' or lean condition. Maybe try a bottle of Techron in your gas.

I already use BG44K every oil change (or more often).
 

RJ_ITR

Thread starter
Messages
23
Location
NoVa
Possibly.... although this problem was not there before I changed oils. Should I be concerned about the cold start issues, and if so, what should I be looking to switch to given the use of the car?
 

RJ_ITR

Thread starter
Messages
23
Location
NoVa
quote:
Originally posted by zoomzoom: maybe you should check your spark plugs?
They were new and properly gapped less than 6,000 miles ago. Cap, rotor, wires, fuel filter, air filter, etc are also pretty new. I'm more concerned about the knocking noises than anything else.
 
Messages
7,409
Location
Austin, TX
You might try resetting your ECM. The procedure may vary from car to car, but usually you can just disconnect the battery for a period of time, and then when you connect it back up, and restart the car, the computer will adjust to the new conditions. It may take one more restart, for it to run better adjusted to the new conditions.
 

RJ_ITR

Thread starter
Messages
23
Location
NoVa
I've already reset the ECU....... Should I be concerned about the cold start issues, and if so, what should I be looking to switch to given the use of the car?
 
Top