Garage Door Spring Snapped!

[fdcg27]

The type of spring installation that you have is easy, cheap and perfectly safe to replace DIY.
I've done a few of these on our three overhead doors and it really is no sweat.
You'd obviously do this with the door up so the springs will be under only mild tension as you pull them into place.
I'd replace the pair since that way you have some assurance that they'll lift in a balance manner and not try to cock the door in its tracks.
Also, if one let go, then the other won't be too far behind.
Incidentally, these springs fail as maximum tension is reached.
I've had this happen on lowering a door with a car parked in the affected bay and there was no damage at all to the car.
The reaction forces are limited to the linear orientation of the spring.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Incidentally, these springs fail as maximum tension is reached.
I've had this happen on lowering a door with a car parked in the affected bay and there was no damage at all to the car.
The reaction forces are limited to the linear orientation of the spring.


Looking at mine, if one end or the other snapped, there is no doubt the spring could flop around and hit a car parked in the garage. Hence, the need for a safety cable going down the length of the inside of the spring.

 

[nthach]

I've never done extension springs - those are a bit harder to find locally but most of the big boxes and Ace can order them as there isn't the same amount of liability involved compared to a torsion spring. I'd measure the springs via wire size and go with a matched pair. Replace the cables while you're at it, they're cheap and no sense in having everything apart just to do the job all over again. Use the calculator here, I did that with my spring job: http://ddmgaragedoors.com/springs/sectional-garage-door-extension-springs.php#how-to-order

I've done torsion springs, it's not bad but you need to be careful. Torsion springs hold enough energy to turn a winding bar into a javelin and to break bones. My dad last week tried to move the center bracket to try fix a creaking noise from the door(it was the hinges, and unfortunately with this brand of garage door - Overhead Door, replacing hinges requires the panels to be swapped out). He's lucky he's not in a body bag or a coffin right now. I warned him multiple times to DO NOT TOUCH the garage door rails/springs/cables and to call a professional if in doubt.

 

[AZjeff]

I had an extension spring break once, no safety wire (didn't know about them) and it fell straight down beside a fairly new car. Make me sick thinking about what it could have done. Happened at night, door down so it was under tension when it broke. Replaced cables, springs and installed safety wires and considered myself lucky. Nothing dangerous about replacing extension springs except maybe standing on a short ladder...

 

[Linctex]

Originally Posted By: gathermewool
The door opener is an old 1/4HP unit from the 80's; however, it does not seem to struggle opening the door.


IF (big if) the correct springs are installed correctly, a 1/10 HP unit will work.

With correct springs tensioned, you can open the door with just one finger.

 

[gathermewool]

I've got everything I need, but it's a little too late to get started. We'll just leave the Subie outside for the snow storm we're due to get tomorrow.

The snow and wind will likely mean that this thing won't be fully installed until Wednesday, at the earliest. I can still rig up the new wire, double-check the pulleys and, as others have importantly mentioned, take my time.

Originally Posted By: EdwardC
I think a lot of people think that you're talking about a torsion spring and not an extension spring. I personally wouldn't try replacing a torsion spring assist, but extension, I would probably do.

Either way, take your time and be careful, gl!


I think so, too. Again, as previously mentioned, the spring is fully installed with ZERO tension. The only tension is that which I pull the line with the pulley and spring to as I install it, which is just enough to keep it horizontal to the deck. There is 0%, zip, zero, zilch risk in installing this thing. The risk comes with first use, for which I will be far, far away.

//

This occurred with the spring at max tension (with the door closed). It hadn't been operated since earlier that day. We heard a loud bang that scared the bejesus out of my wife and me as we watched TV. Our living room is over the garage.

The spring broke at the hooked end, so it probably contracted violently and fell. I'm not sure if it would have whipped about based on orientation, had the safety line not been there, but it's quite possible.

 

[bernardch]

Unless you do it for a living, torsion spring replacement is NOT a DIY job.

I manage a maintenance department for a multi-million dollar manufacturing operation. I have 10 technicians with a combined 300 plus years of experience. My team repairs and maintains everything from the production machinery, building utilities, HVAC, office environment EXCEPT door springs. Far, far too dangerous. My team respects that decision.

I do not want to make the call with HR or visit an employee's wife, girlfriend, parent or child and tell them their loved one is not coming home tonight.

Be smart, pay a professional.

 

[gathermewool]

While setting things up I decided to lube the operational door with white lithium grease. I'll clean out the gunk the previous owner put in the tracks later. Holy moly, what a difference! After cycling it twice, the only noise I hear is from the motor. All of the creaks and groans are gone. I also lubricated the spring.

When I have time I'll use chain lube to get that, too.

Originally Posted By: bernardch
Unless you do it for a living, torsion spring replacement is NOT a DIY job.

I manage a maintenance department for a multi-million dollar manufacturing operation. I have 10 technicians with a combined 300 plus years of experience. My team repairs and maintains everything from the production machinery, building utilities, HVAC, office environment EXCEPT door springs. Far, far too dangerous. My team respects that decision.

I do not want to make the call with HR or visit an employee's wife, girlfriend, parent or child and tell them their loved one is not coming home tonight.

Be smart, pay a professional.

Heckuva first post. I think you're responding to the guys talking about torsion springs, not extension springs.

The springs I have seem perfectly safe to DIY.

 

[kschachn]

I disagree with the extreme danger factor on torsion spring replacement. I've done it on five doors now, it does make a difference how heavy the door is but still you're not on the hairy edge of disaster or injury even when it's a relatively heavy door. Some of the online garage door parts places have very good videos on how to safely replace the spring, as well as calculators for alternative spring sizes to gain increased longevity of the spring. Yes if you are careless and don't pay attention when winding the springs you could obviously get hurt but if you're familiar with mechanical repair, follow the instructions and take care to make sure the rods are fully inserted into the cones you can get it done.

Large tall commercial doors (or even old wood residential ones) are different than the typical insulated steel ones. I wouldn't try working on those perhaps but for residential doors it's not as scary as some people want you to believe.

 

[AZjeff]

Originally Posted By: kschachn
I disagree with the extreme danger factor on torsion spring replacement.


Same here. I replaced the torsions when one broke on the garage door here. Understand the procedure, follow the cautions given, don't be timid or dainty while winding. Suggest not being inline with where your winding tool would fly and no spectators. Not the same category as working with live 230V.

And by golly you feel like a chest-thumping manly man when you finish up and it works and you're alive!

 

[Linctex]

Originally Posted By: kschachn
I disagree with the extreme danger factor on torsion spring replacement. I've done it on five doors now, it does make a difference how heavy the door is but still you're not on the hairy edge of disaster or injury even when it's a relatively heavy door.


Tensioning the twist is tricky... I use two pieces of re-bar and leapfrog from hole to hole.

It's just something you have to be very careful when doing.

 

[bernardch]

Originally Posted By: gathermewool
While setting things up I decided to lube the operational door with white lithium grease. I'll clean out the gunk the previous owner put in the tracks later. Holy moly, what a difference! After cycling it twice, the only noise I hear is from the motor. All of the creaks and groans are gone. I also lubricated the spring.

When I have time I'll use chain lube to get that, too.

Heckuva first post. I think you're responding to the guys talking about torsion springs, not extension springs.

The springs I have seem perfectly safe to DIY.



Yep, refers to torsion springs; the extension springs, go for it.

CB

 

[javacontour]

I would agree with being careful and using the right tools.

Just like changing struts on a car. Use a good spring compressor, take your time and be cautious and you'll be fine.

Ditto with torsion spring. Get the right tools. Don't try to use a pair of screwdrivers. Spend the $10 for the bars. I think I spent an hour or so researching and watching videos before I tried it myself.

Had my adult son in the garage with me watching in case I did something stupid and needed someone to call 911.

Took me about an hour to do it, maybe a bit more as I was taking my time.

One has to be cautious, but if you work on your car, putting it up on ramps or jackstands, I don't see this as any more risky.

Just don't take shortcuts with safety.

Originally Posted By: Linctex
Originally Posted By: kschachn
I disagree with the extreme danger factor on torsion spring replacement. I've done it on five doors now, it does make a difference how heavy the door is but still you're not on the hairy edge of disaster or injury even when it's a relatively heavy door.


Tensioning the twist is tricky... I use two pieces of re-bar and leapfrog from hole to hole.

It's just something you have to be very careful when doing.

 

[gathermewool]

I finally got everything I need and now I'm just waiting for some free time (and a little more warmth) to get it done. Looks pretty easy. One thing I couldn't get a straight answer on from the guys at Lowes and Home Depot, was how to hook the spring to the framing. Some online videos seemed to show a threaded clothes hook (with two nuts for placement). None of the shackles seemed to fit or had a very high load rating, so I chose the below link, which has a stated working load of 1200#. Seems like it will work perfectly for this application.





Here's the spring end, wound twice. It looks like you might be able to slide something between the wires, but it's very stiff. I was able to gently pry them a fraction of a millimeter apart, but I don't think that's the intent, so I'm stuck with installing using something like I chose.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: gathermewool
I finally got everything I need and now I'm just waiting for some free time (and a little more warmth) to get it done. Looks pretty easy. One thing I couldn't get a straight answer on from the guys at Lowes and Home Depot, was how to hook the spring to the framing.


Usually "S" hooks meant for garage door springs.

 

[gathermewool]

Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
I finally got everything I need and now I'm just waiting for some free time (and a little more warmth) to get it done. Looks pretty easy. One thing I couldn't get a straight answer on from the guys at Lowes and Home Depot, was how to hook the spring to the framing.


Usually "S" hooks meant for garage door springs.


Thanks for the input. Do you think my choice is a bad one? If anything, I feel as if I'm going overkill, and that, if anything (hopefully), I've simply paid too much for this connection.

I actually looked for S-hooks, but none were rated for higher than 50#! The S hooks I saw at Home Depot and Lowes weren't even rated for the door's weight!

Being conservative, I'm assuming this connection will see a max load of 150% of the door's weight, accounting for any inertial changes that might add strain beyond the actual weight of the door.

 

[ZeeOSix]

The "quick link" you bought should be fine, it's probably rated much higher than the proper "S" hook for garage door springs.

 

[gathermewool]

Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
The "quick link" you bought should be fine, it's probably rated much higher than the proper "S" hook for garage door springs.


Yea, it’s quarter inch and a closed cross section. Seems like it would have to be stronger and more secure than an open cross section.

 

[gathermewool]

Took about 1.5 hrs to do, with me taking my time and checking everything several times.

 

[gathermewool]

One more thing to note. I posted previously that I lubricated the joints of the working door, curing the creaking and groaning it exhibited.

Before installing the new springs I checked the larger pulleys, and they wouldn't spin more than a couple of revolutions and sounded a little grindy. I cleaned out the ball bearings and sprayed silicone spray and it will not free-rev very easily - HUGE difference. I'm sure the cumulative, additional friction doesn't add a lot of extra work for the garage door opener, but it likely adds some. Debris and rough operation likely causes a lot of wear, as well.

I'm not sure how often I'll lubricate these parts, but I think every 3-6 months (year at most) should be fine, if I don't hear anything like creaks and groans beforehand to tip me off.