Full synthetic for Kia Forte?
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The only thing I can tell ya is this.
Some owners of these engines feel the OEM filter makes a difference. If you are concerned, get a mechanical oil pressure check done on it, but, try an OEM filter first. Most dealers sell them for $7 bucks or so.
Kia/Hyundai techs say some start up noise is normal.
Quote:
I was aware of the noise a direct injection makes but unfortunately this car doesn't have it frown I wish it was just that but the noise scares me.
You may be more fortunate than you think. The jury is still out as to the long term issues due to the fact that nothing is cleaning the back side of the intake valves on GDI engines, but that is a whole different topic.
Some owners of these engines feel the OEM filter makes a difference. If you are concerned, get a mechanical oil pressure check done on it, but, try an OEM filter first. Most dealers sell them for $7 bucks or so.
Kia/Hyundai techs say some start up noise is normal.
Quote:
I was aware of the noise a direct injection makes but unfortunately this car doesn't have it frown I wish it was just that but the noise scares me.
You may be more fortunate than you think. The jury is still out as to the long term issues due to the fact that nothing is cleaning the back side of the intake valves on GDI engines, but that is a whole different topic.
wemay
Site Donor 2023
Hyundai/Kia GDi has been on the market since 2009 - sky isn't falling yet.
I would definitely use the OEM filters but that's unlikely to effect the type of start up noise you seem to be describing if it's more than a "tick". I had a Mazda that was very noisy on start up that sounded like "rod knock lite" for the first 3 minutes that was attributed to a bad VVT actuator but always ran quiet when warmed up. Generally, when that's the description, it seems to warrant getting it looked at as you might be looking at either an expensive repair or engine failure in an unknown period of time. My Mazda was deemed to be a time bomb that would probably require 2K in repairs to make it right and I got rid of it...it would be good to know if you might be looking at anywhere near the same thing or if it's covered under warranty.
Originally Posted By: wemay
Hyundai/Kia GDi has been on the market since 2009 - sky isn't falling yet.
True, currently 17,500 miles on mine, runs great. But, there have been some issues with burnt valves on engines with around 75,000 miles on them according to the dealership I bought from. Low NOACK oil should be helpful in combating the carbon build. Less stuff thru the PCV.
I'm still wondering why Hyundai doesn't recommend synthetic oil for these engines, as most synthetics have a lower NOACK.
Hyundai/Kia GDi has been on the market since 2009 - sky isn't falling yet.
True, currently 17,500 miles on mine, runs great. But, there have been some issues with burnt valves on engines with around 75,000 miles on them according to the dealership I bought from. Low NOACK oil should be helpful in combating the carbon build. Less stuff thru the PCV.
I'm still wondering why Hyundai doesn't recommend synthetic oil for these engines, as most synthetics have a lower NOACK.
Apparently, there have been issues with 2011-12 Fortes cam phaser draining empty overnight hence the value of the OEM one way BPV filter if you're not using something similar..it seems like this is similar to the VVT issue that I mentioned earlier and might represent engine damage occurring when it's cold. It would most likely be the sound you're hearing if it goes away after the engine warms up. I would definitely get it looked at....
wemay
Site Donor 2023
Originally Posted By: BrianC
Originally Posted By: wemay
Hyundai/Kia GDi has been on the market since 2009 - sky isn't falling yet.
True, currently 17,500 miles on mine, runs great. But, there have been some issues with burnt valves on engines with around 75,000 miles on them according to the dealership I bought from. Low NOACK oil should be helpful in combating the carbon build. Less stuff thru the PCV.
I'm still wondering why Hyundai doesn't recommend synthetic oil for these engines, as most synthetics have a lower NOACK.
One theory is that a shorter OCI (as Hyundai recommend) is another way around deposit issues. A GrpIII may be seen as a waste at such a low maximum OCI as 5000 for turbos and 7500 for non-turbo.
http://www.pecj.or.jp/japanese/overseas/conference/pdf/conference12-19.pdf
Originally Posted By: wemay
Hyundai/Kia GDi has been on the market since 2009 - sky isn't falling yet.
True, currently 17,500 miles on mine, runs great. But, there have been some issues with burnt valves on engines with around 75,000 miles on them according to the dealership I bought from. Low NOACK oil should be helpful in combating the carbon build. Less stuff thru the PCV.
I'm still wondering why Hyundai doesn't recommend synthetic oil for these engines, as most synthetics have a lower NOACK.
One theory is that a shorter OCI (as Hyundai recommend) is another way around deposit issues. A GrpIII may be seen as a waste at such a low maximum OCI as 5000 for turbos and 7500 for non-turbo.
http://www.pecj.or.jp/japanese/overseas/conference/pdf/conference12-19.pdf
Good read... Ty Wemay. Definitely something that will stay on the radar.
Seems something I read earlier, that pushing these engines hard from time to time is helpful in reducing deposits, may be valid.
Seems something I read earlier, that pushing these engines hard from time to time is helpful in reducing deposits, may be valid.
wemay
Site Donor 2023
Which oil out there is known to be the quietest? Or does it depend on the engine? Is there a specific oil and additive I can use to help me quiet it down? Like I said it's really only on start up, then goes away. Which to me just says lack of oil at start up. On the recent oil change of last weak I put QSUD 5w30 (car specs 5w20) and a Fran ultra filter.
wemay
Site Donor 2023
I have always heard that Quaker State (green bottle) quiets things down. I once thought it was doing so for me but have subsequently chalked it up to butt-dyno.
If start up noise is your concern, thinner is your friend, not thicker.
I do prefer 5w30 in ours though. It has some noise at start up but nothing like I often see posted here, but noticeable.
Also a quality dino has a good chance of being a little quieter than a full synthetic.
I do prefer 5w30 in ours though. It has some noise at start up but nothing like I often see posted here, but noticeable.
Also a quality dino has a good chance of being a little quieter than a full synthetic.
I will say most Hyundais make a clatter when cold at start up some of the 3.5 v6 engines sound like diesels but the engines are very good and long lasting. We dont see that many hyundais in for engine work unless they were overheated or run with no oil
try it, certainly won't hurt anything.
Don't know, there is not a great difference between the two. I would definitely switch to the OEM filter regardless of the oil used.
The problem with 0w-30 is limited choices while staying at a reasonable price. The only readily available API licensed 0w-30 is M1 AFE.
You could try a 0/5w-20. (5w-20 is Kia's first recommendation.) All of the Majors make a 0w-20. There is some who say thinner is quieter on startup.
The problem with 0w-30 is limited choices while staying at a reasonable price. The only readily available API licensed 0w-30 is M1 AFE.
You could try a 0/5w-20. (5w-20 is Kia's first recommendation.) All of the Majors make a 0w-20. There is some who say thinner is quieter on startup.
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