Fuel Dilution problem.
- Thread starter StevieC
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IMO- you should hold off on doing anything else for a full OCI. You've cleaned & replaced sensors, noticed it seems to run better- now give it a chance to work. Go ahead & try your full 4000 miles, maybe even stretch it to 5000 if all seems OK. The next analysis will tell- and you have a relatively small set of variables to deal with. Changing injectors will be $$$- even if it is Canadian $$
- and if you do it now, & the next analysis comes back with min/no fuel dilution, you'll never know for sure if it was the injectors or the sensors. It seems unlikely to be both- so give your nice clean MAF sensor & those new O2 sensors a chance to do their stuff.
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Yet I get ZERO fuel dilution on my used oil analysis, LOL. I'm lucky to see 500Km from a 110L tank if I'm driving in-town a lot.
That's what happens when you retrofit a 110L tank and install 1,000 lb valve springs in a Town Car.
Yet I get ZERO fuel dilution on my used oil analysis, LOL. I'm lucky to see 500Km from a 110L tank if I'm driving in-town a lot.
That's what happens when you retrofit a 110L tank and install 1,000 lb valve springs in a Town Car.
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Why would you need injectors? They are a "seldom fail" item; especially on anything I've ever owned (admittedly mostly Ford products).
Plus, Stevie has run all sorts of fuel additives in his tank pretty much all the time, so these injectors should be very clean, provided the products worked as advertised.
I am interested how this thing plays out. I hope that MAF and O2 sensor cleaning does the trick, but if not, then injectors are the next suspect. And if that's the case, it will bring some questions regarding fuel additives for sure. Either way, Stevie, good luck and keep the updates coming.
Why would you need injectors? They are a "seldom fail" item; especially on anything I've ever owned (admittedly mostly Ford products).
Plus, Stevie has run all sorts of fuel additives in his tank pretty much all the time, so these injectors should be very clean, provided the products worked as advertised.
I am interested how this thing plays out. I hope that MAF and O2 sensor cleaning does the trick, but if not, then injectors are the next suspect. And if that's the case, it will bring some questions regarding fuel additives for sure. Either way, Stevie, good luck and keep the updates coming.
Originally Posted By: severach
Send the injectors in to have them cleaned. They will tell you how bad they were which will help you decide whether or not to look for more problems.
I wish I could but I can't afford to be without a vehicle that long as I use it for work everyday and 8-10 hours a day.
If the next sample shows F.D. I will be replacing them.
Send the injectors in to have them cleaned. They will tell you how bad they were which will help you decide whether or not to look for more problems.
I wish I could but I can't afford to be without a vehicle that long as I use it for work everyday and 8-10 hours a day.
If the next sample shows F.D. I will be replacing them.
Originally Posted By: Stuart Hughes
IMO- you should hold off on doing anything else for a full OCI. You've cleaned & replaced sensors, noticed it seems to run better- now give it a chance to work. Go ahead & try your full 4000 miles, maybe even stretch it to 5000 if all seems OK. The next analysis will tell- and you have a relatively small set of variables to deal with. Changing injectors will be $$$- even if it is Canadian $$
- and if you do it now, & the next analysis comes back with min/no fuel dilution, you'll never know for sure if it was the injectors or the sensors. It seems unlikely to be both- so give your nice clean MAF sensor & those new O2 sensors a chance to do their stuff.
Exactly my point and what I'm going to do. I won't send the fill in there now for UOA but the next one as this one already has been exposed to the old O2 sensors and dirty MAF so IMO it's a contaminated sample.
IMO- you should hold off on doing anything else for a full OCI. You've cleaned & replaced sensors, noticed it seems to run better- now give it a chance to work. Go ahead & try your full 4000 miles, maybe even stretch it to 5000 if all seems OK. The next analysis will tell- and you have a relatively small set of variables to deal with. Changing injectors will be $$$- even if it is Canadian $$
Exactly my point and what I'm going to do. I won't send the fill in there now for UOA but the next one as this one already has been exposed to the old O2 sensors and dirty MAF so IMO it's a contaminated sample.
I'd send it in anyway. If the cause of the fuel dilution is fixed, you'll be getting very little additional fuel in the oil. Most of what's in there should boil off as you drive, giving a decent picture of what's going on.
With the price of used oil analysis I think I will pass...
If the MPG is still the same and the vehicle is running fine the last thing I'd do is mess with it.
Stevie, MILLIONS of these engines are doing just fine with normal oil changed at normal OCIs. They last a long time. I'd not be putting a set of "Fuel Injectors are $1200 for a set of 6" in a perfectly well running vehicle. Esp one that has 180k miles on it.
You'd have to first TAKE CARE OF THE "problem" with that investment. (ie you know 1000% that this would take care of it (that is if you do have a issue))
Then what are you saving? You get to bump up the OCI with expensive oil that is prob not needed.
My point is what do you have to do to justify $1200? How long is the payoff. If the vehicle is running well and MPG is the same what are you getting for the $1200...
A few numbers on a sheet?
JMO...
Bill
PS: Where is the other thread. You post so much I can't find it.
Stevie, MILLIONS of these engines are doing just fine with normal oil changed at normal OCIs. They last a long time. I'd not be putting a set of "Fuel Injectors are $1200 for a set of 6" in a perfectly well running vehicle. Esp one that has 180k miles on it.
You'd have to first TAKE CARE OF THE "problem" with that investment. (ie you know 1000% that this would take care of it (that is if you do have a issue))
Then what are you saving? You get to bump up the OCI with expensive oil that is prob not needed.
My point is what do you have to do to justify $1200? How long is the payoff. If the vehicle is running well and MPG is the same what are you getting for the $1200...
A few numbers on a sheet?
JMO...
Bill
PS: Where is the other thread. You post so much I can't find it.
Bill,
It's in the oil section... (5w20 RLI - Awesome)
Read this thread through... There is some things you are missing I think because of what you stated in this post.
I want the fuel dilution stopped and returned to previous non-existent levels that were shown on previous used oil analysis so I can extend my OCI back to the mileage I used to be able to achieve before this mess happened.
Also I need to take care of it because it could affect my emission system components causing me to fail an emissions test in the near future.
Also I want my engine running as close to factory standard as possible to ensure a long life for financial reasons and because I have bet with my brother than I will get 500,000 Km's (300K miles) out of this engine.
It's in the oil section... (5w20 RLI - Awesome)
Read this thread through... There is some things you are missing I think because of what you stated in this post.
I want the fuel dilution stopped and returned to previous non-existent levels that were shown on previous used oil analysis so I can extend my OCI back to the mileage I used to be able to achieve before this mess happened.
Also I need to take care of it because it could affect my emission system components causing me to fail an emissions test in the near future.
Also I want my engine running as close to factory standard as possible to ensure a long life for financial reasons and because I have bet with my brother than I will get 500,000 Km's (300K miles) out of this engine.
How much does an oil analysis cost? If it is anywhere near the cost of the oil+filter, why in the world would you not change your oil and forget about the analysis?
I am sure I am touching the 3rd rail here with that statement!
- Vikas
I am sure I am touching the 3rd rail here with that statement!
- Vikas
Originally Posted By: Vikas
How much does an oil analysis cost? If it is anywhere near the cost of the oil+filter, why in the world would you not change your oil and forget about the analysis?
I am sure I am touching the 3rd rail here with that statement!
- Vikas
It's to troubleshoot the problem and make it right... Then I will just do used oil analysis once an a while to monitor the health of the engine for problems like these.
A used oil analysis is cheap in the long run when a problem like this is caught early and can be corrected before it leads to increased engine wear and premature failure.
Saying a used oil analysis was $100, that is a whole lot cheaper than $2,000 for an engine and cheaper than $500/month in car payments.
Also cheaper than more frequent oil changes to ignore the problem.
How much does an oil analysis cost? If it is anywhere near the cost of the oil+filter, why in the world would you not change your oil and forget about the analysis?
I am sure I am touching the 3rd rail here with that statement!
- Vikas
It's to troubleshoot the problem and make it right... Then I will just do used oil analysis once an a while to monitor the health of the engine for problems like these.
A used oil analysis is cheap in the long run when a problem like this is caught early and can be corrected before it leads to increased engine wear and premature failure.
Saying a used oil analysis was $100, that is a whole lot cheaper than $2,000 for an engine and cheaper than $500/month in car payments.
Also cheaper than more frequent oil changes to ignore the problem.
I think I agree with Bill on this, and in "direct proportion" to the cost of injectors. If they're really that expensive, even if they are the culprit, why not just select a slightly higher vis oil, and let the oil do its job (i.e. suck it up for you re the dilution)? Unless you're suffering massive, catastrophic dilution, I'd think that any decent 30 wt oil could protect your engine will over a normal OCI with "garden variety" dilution.
Originally Posted By: ekpolk
I think I agree with Bill on this, and in "direct proportion" to the cost of injectors. If they're really that expensive, even if they are the culprit, why not just select a slightly higher vis oil, and let the oil do its job (i.e. suck it up for you re the dilution)? Unless you're suffering massive, catastrophic dilution, I'd think that any decent 30 wt oil could protect your engine will over a normal OCI with "garden variety" dilution.
E.K. I might but the fuel dilution seems to have appeared out of nowhere then got progressively worse with each sample.
It's a bit better since replacing the Plugs/Wires previous to this sample but not by much.
I'm hoping the MAF/O2 Sensor work I did will correct it to an acceptable level.
If not I will monitor it over the next few used oil analysis and might just do a thicker oil to "suck it up" and RLI seems to be great from this because Terry said it did an outstanding job considering the fuel that was in the sample.
I just was discussing replacing the injectors here for discussion sake and for thoughts of maybe somewhere else to look in case it might be something I missed.
I think though I might just have it whipped with the O2's and MAF because the truck responds really well.
I have topped it off with gas this morning so I can see how this tank fairs in mileage versus my log book, but the Scangauge seems to be reporting better fuel consumption already so... Time will tell!
I think I agree with Bill on this, and in "direct proportion" to the cost of injectors. If they're really that expensive, even if they are the culprit, why not just select a slightly higher vis oil, and let the oil do its job (i.e. suck it up for you re the dilution)? Unless you're suffering massive, catastrophic dilution, I'd think that any decent 30 wt oil could protect your engine will over a normal OCI with "garden variety" dilution.
E.K. I might but the fuel dilution seems to have appeared out of nowhere then got progressively worse with each sample.
It's a bit better since replacing the Plugs/Wires previous to this sample but not by much.
I'm hoping the MAF/O2 Sensor work I did will correct it to an acceptable level.
If not I will monitor it over the next few used oil analysis and might just do a thicker oil to "suck it up" and RLI seems to be great from this because Terry said it did an outstanding job considering the fuel that was in the sample.
I just was discussing replacing the injectors here for discussion sake and for thoughts of maybe somewhere else to look in case it might be something I missed.
I think though I might just have it whipped with the O2's and MAF because the truck responds really well.
I have topped it off with gas this morning so I can see how this tank fairs in mileage versus my log book, but the Scangauge seems to be reporting better fuel consumption already so... Time will tell!
OVERKILL
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Maybe I'm shooting in the dark here, but if all you are looking for is a change in the level of fuel dilution, why not just use a Toromont sample; you know, the ones that are like $20.00?
You know this wouldn't happen with a GM.
Hyundai...sheesh...
(You know me Stevie...this is just a joke...see my used oil analysis just posted on that GM Equinox if you want to see fuel dilution and I'm actually moderately in love with the new Sonata.
Hyundai...sheesh...
(You know me Stevie...this is just a joke...see my used oil analysis just posted on that GM Equinox if you want to see fuel dilution and I'm actually moderately in love with the new Sonata.
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Maybe I'm shooting in the dark here, but if all you are looking for is a change in the level of fuel dilution, why not just use a Toromont sample; you know, the ones that are like $20.00?
I will for the next one... I wanted to see the RLI with Terry's analysis and had a kit laying around from renewing my DMW blog membership.
Maybe I'm shooting in the dark here, but if all you are looking for is a change in the level of fuel dilution, why not just use a Toromont sample; you know, the ones that are like $20.00?
I will for the next one... I wanted to see the RLI with Terry's analysis and had a kit laying around from renewing my DMW blog membership.
Originally Posted By: rcy
You know this wouldn't happen with a GM.
Hyundai...sheesh...
(You know me Stevie...this is just a joke...see my used oil analysis just posted on that GM Equinox if you want to see fuel dilution and I'm actually moderately in love with the new Sonata.
Yeah no check engine lights, just fuel dilution and to think only after 320K KM's (192K miles) Sheesh... Last time I buy this brand.
You know this wouldn't happen with a GM.
Hyundai...sheesh...
(You know me Stevie...this is just a joke...see my used oil analysis just posted on that GM Equinox if you want to see fuel dilution and I'm actually moderately in love with the new Sonata.
Yeah no check engine lights, just fuel dilution and to think only after 320K KM's (192K miles) Sheesh... Last time I buy this brand.
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
If the MPG is still the same and the vehicle is running fine the last thing I'd do is mess with it.
Stevie, MILLIONS of these engines are doing just fine with normal oil changed at normal OCIs. They last a long time. I'd not be putting a set of "Fuel Injectors are $1200 for a set of 6" in a perfectly well running vehicle. Esp one that has 180k miles on it.
You'd have to first TAKE CARE OF THE "problem" with that investment. (ie you know 1000% that this would take care of it (that is if you do have a issue))
Then what are you saving? You get to bump up the OCI with expensive oil that is prob not needed.
My point is what do you have to do to justify $1200? How long is the payoff. If the vehicle is running well and MPG is the same what are you getting for the $1200...
A few numbers on a sheet?
JMO...
Bill
PS: Where is the other thread. You post so much I can't find it.
Bill.... maybe you could put a "quota" on StevieC's posts ??!!
Or perhaps a "peak" and "off-peak" limit for him ? ......
If the MPG is still the same and the vehicle is running fine the last thing I'd do is mess with it.
Stevie, MILLIONS of these engines are doing just fine with normal oil changed at normal OCIs. They last a long time. I'd not be putting a set of "Fuel Injectors are $1200 for a set of 6" in a perfectly well running vehicle. Esp one that has 180k miles on it.
You'd have to first TAKE CARE OF THE "problem" with that investment. (ie you know 1000% that this would take care of it (that is if you do have a issue))
Then what are you saving? You get to bump up the OCI with expensive oil that is prob not needed.
My point is what do you have to do to justify $1200? How long is the payoff. If the vehicle is running well and MPG is the same what are you getting for the $1200...
A few numbers on a sheet?
JMO...
Bill
PS: Where is the other thread. You post so much I can't find it.
Bill.... maybe you could put a "quota" on StevieC's posts ??!!
Or perhaps a "peak" and "off-peak" limit for him ? ......
Seems like you went along the right path in diagnosing your fuel issues. I did not see mentioned that you checked your fuel pressure. Check that and compare it to OEM specs and check that your fuel pressure regulator (if it has one, I'm no Hyundai expert) is good. Other than that, I would also unplug each injector connector and clean well with contact cleaner. I had fixed an 01 LS1 Trans Am once that had been running lean - nobody could find the problem. I unplugged an injector and saw green corrosion and after cleaning the contacts the problem was solved. A shot in the dark, but it won't cost you but a little bit of your time. If you run too many cleaners thru your injectors you can hurt the windings inside the injectors and this may also be your problem...but I agree with Bill that I would hold off on the high price of injectors on that model until you are 100%. Lastly - have you checked compression? A leaky cyl sure will spill fuel into the oil.
Otherwise if this is your first issue in that many miles I'd say you are doing darn well.
Otherwise if this is your first issue in that many miles I'd say you are doing darn well.
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