Frozen setscrew in the bathroom faucet handle
- Thread starter Vikas
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Put your allen tool in the screw (use a GOOD allen tool, not a cheapie) and smack the allen tool with a hammer, like you would if you were driving in a nail with a hammer. Do this a few times a day for a week before you try to unscrew it. You need to vibrate the allen screw a few times to get some penetrating oil in there.
I'd add some back & forth motion: tighten, loosen, tighten, loosen, etc. to the mix.
Let us know what works.
Let us know what works.
Premium hex keys improve the probability of getting the bolt out, but every situation is different. Sometimes I end up having to grip the outside of the hex head with Vise Grips.
I just buy Gerber brand faucets online for $45 and a set of new flex hoses for a few bucks, and it makes more financial sense than buying new handles, cartridges and all that.
I just buy Gerber brand faucets online for $45 and a set of new flex hoses for a few bucks, and it makes more financial sense than buying new handles, cartridges and all that.
Vice grips on the key eventually managed to strip the head. Looks like the next step now is the drill.
I have never had to resort drilling out a fastener. Since this is small set screw, it should be pretty straightforward. I hope I won't make it any worse.
I have never had to resort drilling out a fastener. Since this is small set screw, it should be pretty straightforward. I hope I won't make it any worse.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Vice grips on the key eventually managed to strip the head. Looks like the next step now is the drill.
I have never had to resort drilling out a fastener. Since this is small set screw, it should be pretty straightforward. I hope I won't make it any worse.
You're paying yourself 2 cents an hour.
Vice grips on the key eventually managed to strip the head. Looks like the next step now is the drill.
I have never had to resort drilling out a fastener. Since this is small set screw, it should be pretty straightforward. I hope I won't make it any worse.
You're paying yourself 2 cents an hour.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
How about these guys?
http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-25152-25-pc...ted+hex+key+set
I do have new handle, new set screw and of course the new cartridge, so I can go complete gorilla on the old one if needed. The faucet feed pipes are all soldered in. No flex connect anywhere in the system. So I am trying to avoid replacing the entire faucet.
Solder two ball valve shutoffs with threads for the hot and cold flex hose from the faucet and you are in business. Those little allen screws don't have much meat in them, and there may not be much left of the threads when you are through.
How about these guys?
http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-25152-25-pc...ted+hex+key+set
I do have new handle, new set screw and of course the new cartridge, so I can go complete gorilla on the old one if needed. The faucet feed pipes are all soldered in. No flex connect anywhere in the system. So I am trying to avoid replacing the entire faucet.
Solder two ball valve shutoffs with threads for the hot and cold flex hose from the faucet and you are in business. Those little allen screws don't have much meat in them, and there may not be much left of the threads when you are through.
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I drill em out and get a new handle.
Originally Posted By: dishdude
I gotta ask, are you shaving at the kitchen sink?
ROFL
I gotta ask, are you shaving at the kitchen sink?
ROFL
Originally Posted By: Doog
I drill em out and get a new handle.
The threads in the handle may be trashed by the "extracting process".
I drill em out and get a new handle.
The threads in the handle may be trashed by the "extracting process".
I have brand new handle on hand.
Quote:
Solder two ball valve shutoffs with threads for the hot and cold flex hose from the faucet and you are in business.
Hot and cold hose already have the shut off valves; except they are all hard hoses. I have not verified if the hard hoses have threaded fitting or not.
But replacing the fixture and putting new flexible hoses would be the last step though. I am afraid that taking off the hard hoses could crack in the incoming pipe and then I would be in a lot of pain. Or the flexible hose would have different fitting than the shut off valve or the new fitting will never get water tight etc. I try to avoid doing anything which has potential of causing more problems than the one I am trying to fix in the first place!
Quote:
Solder two ball valve shutoffs with threads for the hot and cold flex hose from the faucet and you are in business.
Hot and cold hose already have the shut off valves; except they are all hard hoses. I have not verified if the hard hoses have threaded fitting or not.
But replacing the fixture and putting new flexible hoses would be the last step though. I am afraid that taking off the hard hoses could crack in the incoming pipe and then I would be in a lot of pain. Or the flexible hose would have different fitting than the shut off valve or the new fitting will never get water tight etc. I try to avoid doing anything which has potential of causing more problems than the one I am trying to fix in the first place!
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If it's a Moen faucet it should have a life time warranty. I just had them ship all new internals on a 16 year old kitchen faucet.
Even after reverse drilling the heck out of the set screw, the handle is still not coming out. After measuring the length of the drill bit and comparing it with new handle and the new cartridge, I know for sure that the drill has gone through the stem of the old cartridge. What is holding it? I tried to pop it out by prying with a screw driver but the plastic cap chips.
Between the base of the faucet and the handle, there is plastic cap which threads over the cartridge in to the base. The piece of it is already broken. That is not going to thread out easy. I have soaked everything in the white vinegar but still no dice.
I am going to talk with Kohler and get them to ship me a new cap and then I will try to rotate the old cap while the handle is still in place. The plastic thing is called bonnet. The real metal cap which screws in the base is under that one. This means unless I get the handle off, I can NOT rotate the metal cap. The base is already flaking off the chrome. I don't know if Kohler warranties that or not.
I am now wondering if replacing the whole faucet would be easier than struggling with this one. I can buy new a faucet and two 24" feed pipes, probably all under $100
Between the base of the faucet and the handle, there is plastic cap which threads over the cartridge in to the base. The piece of it is already broken. That is not going to thread out easy. I have soaked everything in the white vinegar but still no dice.
I am going to talk with Kohler and get them to ship me a new cap and then I will try to rotate the old cap while the handle is still in place. The plastic thing is called bonnet. The real metal cap which screws in the base is under that one. This means unless I get the handle off, I can NOT rotate the metal cap. The base is already flaking off the chrome. I don't know if Kohler warranties that or not.
I am now wondering if replacing the whole faucet would be easier than struggling with this one. I can buy new a faucet and two 24" feed pipes, probably all under $100
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Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
Replacing it is your best idea. Only problem there is most homes have such limited space inside sink cabinets to remove the old one. My kitchen sink cabinet is such a PITA for arm reaches. I would have to hire a double-jointed, acrobatic repairman....lol
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Probably brass and a steel set screw. Woe is you.
But once the drill has gone through both the screw AND the stem, what else is still holding it? The replacement stem is plastic. I wonder if the original stem was metal and I need to go even bigger drill.
Probably brass and a steel set screw. Woe is you.
But once the drill has gone through both the screw AND the stem, what else is still holding it? The replacement stem is plastic. I wonder if the original stem was metal and I need to go even bigger drill.
Went complete gorrilla on it and it still would not come out. So finally I replaced the whole faucet and then tried to remove the handle from the stem on the bench. Still no luck but eventually managed to break the stem off. The plastic decorative cap is completely frozen to the base It has chipped chunk off plastic but it is pretty much welded to the base. Underneath that cap, there is supposed to be metal nut holding the cartridge. The entire thing is completely corroded.
I bought new flexible supply lines to replace the hard lines that builder had put in to the faucet. I do wish I had applied some anti-seize to the threads before putting them in but I have never seen anybody using it on water lines.
Full props to the manufacturer; they shipped me the exact faucet to replace with. Now I have to mark my calendar to call them back in fifteen years when this one breaks
I bought new flexible supply lines to replace the hard lines that builder had put in to the faucet. I do wish I had applied some anti-seize to the threads before putting them in but I have never seen anybody using it on water lines.
Full props to the manufacturer; they shipped me the exact faucet to replace with. Now I have to mark my calendar to call them back in fifteen years when this one breaks
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