Frozen setscrew in the bathroom faucet handle

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Vikas

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1/8 hex key is not budging it and I am afraid I am going to strip it. The location is such that soaking in vinegar etc is not possible. Also the screw itself is recessed in the handle so all the hex bits that I have do not reach it and thus I am pretty much limited to using the long end of the hex "L" key on it.

HELP!!!
 
It has been sprayed liberally with Kroil. I can do it couple of more days of Kroil on it but was wondering if vinegar might be better suited here.
 
Ditch the little L shaped allen wrench and get a set that looks like a pocket knife and the wrenches turn out like a Swiss army knife.. It will give you enough of a handle to turn the set screw.

And while you're running around looking for a new allen wrench set, put some penetrating oil on that set screw and let it work its magic.

Those little L shaped allen wrenches are good for furniture-in-a-box kits, but not much more.
 
Do you have a pair of slip-joint pliers? If so, grab the short end of the key with the pliers, and add mechanical leverage. Your hand will be able to hold onto the fatter pliers, you'll have a longer arm, and with any luck, the screw will move.

It's hack, but effective.

Edit: put the pliers at a 90 deg angle to the hex. In effect, making the short length of the wrench/key longer. Slip joint pliers are required, so as to get the jaws parallel, and holding on good.
 
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The way I understand the problem is not that you don't have enough leverage, it is that it is so tight that you may round it off, correct? since you have already used kroil on it, I think that you might as well go ahead and put more force on it, and if it strips out, you will probably have to drill it out. I don't suppose there is any way you could heat it is there? Maybe with one of those TINY butane torches?
 
Had a similar problem with a Price Pfister kitchen tap set. I eventually just pulled straight up and the metal handle pulled right off the cartridge which is plastic. Not elegant (or the recommended approach) but it worked! Even the plumber at the local shop couldn't get the set screw out and he eventually stripped the hex head trying (after 24 hours using various penetrating oils). A new OE handle was expensive but the tap set is working again.

I didn't try drilling it out because I doubted I could get a new compatible set screw. I still could I suppose.
 
New fixtures are inexpensive enough. Put some anti seize on the set screw of the new one. I don't like replacing things when not needed but the existing one will be more trouble than it's worth.
If you need to remove the handle it obviously already has a problem.
 
Allen head socket and an electric impact. If those aren't available a T-handle will work great provided you aren't dealing with a slightly stripped or soft screw. Try to only used a closed T-handle type. I've noticed you can't get as much torque on the open loop handles.
 
Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit
Ditch the little L shaped allen wrench and get a set that looks like a pocket knife and the wrenches turn out like a Swiss army knife.. It will give you enough of a handle to turn the set screw.

Those little L shaped allen wrenches are good for furniture-in-a-box kits, but not much more.


I agree. It's called a "folding allen wrench set". Would also be helpful if you know the exact size, since you need either a metric or SAE set.

636606_front200.jpg


If you happen to be a cyclist, you should already have a metric set like this that you keep on your bike.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
It has been sprayed liberally with Kroil. I can do it couple of more days of Kroil on it but was wondering if vinegar might be better suited here.


Vinegar will work if there's calcium build up.
 
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
New fixtures are inexpensive enough. Put some anti seize on the set screw of the new one. I don't like replacing things when not needed but the existing one will be more trouble than it's worth.
If you need to remove the handle it obviously already has a problem.


I agree, just replace the faucet. The seats where the cartridge goes into are probably a corroded mess too.
 
Originally Posted By: dishdude
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
New fixtures are inexpensive enough. Put some anti seize on the set screw of the new one. I don't like replacing things when not needed but the existing one will be more trouble than it's worth.
If you need to remove the handle it obviously already has a problem.


I agree, just replace the faucet. The seats where the cartridge goes into are probably a corroded mess too.
You're right. Fixtures today are built to standard dimensions and use flex hose connections. If you have the standard threaded shut offs installed changing it ought to be easy and solderless, and you won't have to turn off the main water supply. Even the stopper lever linkage is adjustable to fit the faucet stopper lever.
 
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Originally Posted By: Brybo86
paper towel soaked in CLR wrapped around the screw, add a few drops of CLR to the paper towel every 30 mins or so to keep contact
I wonder if I could do same with Kroil or vinegar.

I called the manufacturer. She suggested Vinegar or Liquid Wrench. I am presuming Kroil is better than Liquid Wrench. She also says that the old set screw is 3/16 even though the new one is 1/8. I am now suspecting that I might have already damaged the old one with using 1/8 key :-(

Heck, if nothing works, I would get an opportunity to break out my reverse drill bits which are gathering dust in the basement :)
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
The faucet feed pipes are all soldered in. No flex connect anywhere in the system. So I am trying to avoid replacing the entire faucet.


The risers might be built into the shutoff valves, but they screw into the bottom of the faucet like a garden hose.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
I do have new handle, new set screw and of course the new cartridge, so I can go complete gorilla on the old one if needed.
Worked for me. I didn't even have to pull that hard. Pretty much the worse case is you'd need a new faucet set.

In my case the handle attached directly to the cartridge. If you have the new parts you can see how little force would be required to pull the handle off.

And even having taken (okay pulled) the handle off I couldn't get the set screw out. Or haven't gotten it out yet. I could drill it out but then there's the question of where to get a matching set screw.

The cartridge replacement looks so easy in the YouTube video. And it probably is if there's no corrosion.
 
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