Free oil for free advice (???????) (!!!!!!!!)

[JustinH]

Here's some stuff I do with new cars.

Install a transmsission cooler. I use the B&M stacked plate ones, and there are a few good brands over on bulkpart.com. Also pick yourself up a magnefine inline transmission filter in there. They also sell them over there. Get some AN fittings and stainless hose and plumb your new cooler in. get the biggest cooler you can afford. The AN fittings and ss hose are expensive, but not as expensive as having a rubber clamped hose start leaking while you are driving.

Secondly, get the truck rust proofed. I'm not talking about rubberized coating, get it coated with oil once a year. This is huge.

Also get a top for the bed. You can either put a drop in bedliner in it or a spray in, it won't matter as long as you have a top on it. I use a OEM soft tonneau on my ford and I like it alot.

A bug guard on the nose of the truck will protect the paint from rock chips, and they now make a clear plastic front end protectant, I think its 3m. What you do is apply this to the front end on the truck, and it protects it from rocks and chips. Its like a thick clear film. A body shop installs it for you and you can not even see it when its installed, and your paint won't fade or chip.

Lastly put a remote starter on it. You will want one in the summer and you will want one in the winter. Its nice to get into a cooled or warmed up truck.

Justin

 

[n8wvi]

For all the vinyl, plastic, rubber, etc. try 303 Aerospace Protectant. The stuff is absolutely amazing. It's not as 'shiny' as ArmorAll or McGuiars (which I actually prefer, ESPECIALLY for the dash). I doesn't attract dust like the others do. It can be found at most RV and or boat dealers. I got mine at a local RV place. Search for 303 on this board. I KNOW it's been discussed before. Now here's the crazy part I can't prove. I SWEAR, my car doesn't get as hot inside when parked in the summer since I applied it to my dash. Like I said, I can't prove it, just something I noticed.

Dave

 

[Ugly3]

You have selected a fine Conventional oil and given that you change it regularly the engine will outlast two of all the other components.

My view is that the Trans is the weak point in getting 10 years of service from the truck. Convert to full synthetic transmission fluid (anything but Amsoil) and install an external trans cooler. You will be all set.

If I am selected as the winner please send the coupons to the second place finisher - I use only Mobil 1 oil and Purolator Pure One filters - 150,000 miles and still running strong.

 

[427Z06]

If you live in a climate with snow and they salt the roads, buy a inexpensive beater vehicle to use when there's salt on the road. Anyone who wants to keep a nice vehicle looking nice a long time does this in the North.

 

[sewerman]

One simple rule to follow

Treat it with care and respect,(just like your wife/gf)and she'll be with you a loooooooong time...

 

[Matt89]

Seriously, if all you are looking for is 10 years, why bother with all this stuff? Just about any vehicle will go that long with only the maintenance listed in the owners manual. Save the money you'd spend on all that undercoat crap and apply it to your next ride. Now, if you want 15+ years it's probably worth your while.

Ugly3...is there something wrong with Amsoil's ATF? Haven't heard a bad word about it except from you, did you have a bad experience with it?

 

[Ugly3]

Matt89 -

Sorry, I didn't say anything bad about Amsoil ATF, only that I would not recommend it. I would not recommend products from a company who claims to have world class products and then does not have their full line of products API certified.

Wal-Mart $.79 a quart oil is API certified, Amsoil $7.00 a quart oil should be too.

 

[Drew99GT]

Don't drive into any trees or rocks. That will allow longer vehicle life...................

Seriously, transmission fluid flushes as often or more than the manual says, and make SURE that the transmission fluid level is correct after you have that done.

Also, at least every 2 years, fully flush the block/radiator/cooling system and replenish with distilled water and coolent.

Thirdly, chassis lubrication, especially ball joints and some GM trucks have grease fittings on the front U-joint. Most lube places, even establishes shops and dealers, will only hit the lower ball joints and tie rod ball joint cause they are the easiest to access. Sometimes it requires the front tires to be removed to acces the top ball joint grease fittings. Keep them lubed nicley with dust caps on them, and you won't be hearing the usual popping/grinding noises from ball joints after 50K.

 

[ocrstar]

Here's one bit of advice on maintaining your Silverado (I noticed you did ask for ONE tip per post, and also that you live in Nebraska with cold winters and salty streets-according to your previous posts.)

I'd say to get your underbody flushed out at least once a week when there's salt on the roads.

I use the drive thru touchless car wash with underbody spray. If you have the space or ability, better yet to do it yourself. Your biggest concern in 10 years is not so much what brand of fluids you use in the engine, but preventing rust from your underbody. This will help your trade-in/resale value because there will be less rust/depreciation under there. You'll also be cleaning and protecting your truck body at the same time which is the first thing anyone notices when buying a vehicle.

 

[james1]

Deer Whistles.

 

[Ugly3]

James1 -

A study from the University of Wisconsin or Michigan or Minnesota (one of the northern states) found that Deer Whistles are of no value.

 

[ToyotaNSaturn]

One tidbit I've learned from seeing far too many trucks in the shops I used to work at: NEVER changed the differential fluid. Just about EVERY time a truck owner changed their rear-end fluid, it would be back within 3-6 months for a new rear-end gear set. I used to know the part numbers in my sleep...all those 4209's (rear axle gear kits).

Bottom line, don't let anyone talk you into a differential fluid change. This will keep the most amount of money in your pocket and keep the truck off the lift for unneeded repairs.

 

[crashz]

Thats the weirdest thing I ever heard. Why wouldn't you want to get the old gear oil out and new stuff in?

My tip, which I'm surprised I haven't heard yet: Drive defensively, under control at all times, and without a cell phone glued to your ear. Accidents not only ruin a good vehicle, but they could potentially ruin a good human being too.

 

[james1]

Quote:
___________________________________________
James1 -

A study from the University of Wisconsin or Michigan or Minnesota (one of the northern states) found that Deer Whistles are of no value.
___________________________________________

Allright then, just make sure you don't install a deer call.

 

[Swift]

Get a good set of floor mats and replace the factory ones. The ones that hold the liquid and debris are best.

 

[obbop]

Some good advice here so far. Yoou folks are gonna' make it tough to pick a winner!!!!!

 

[The_Jeff]

Be sure and wash the cab mounts when you're under the truck. These seem to always be the first spot that rusts out.

 

[Ugly3]

Come on - tell us when you will post a "winner".

 

[Matt_S]

quote:

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Originally posted by Ugly3:
Come on - tell us when you will post a "winner".

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Here, here!

 

[obbop]

I'll give the herd 2 or 3 more days to provide a tip/advice/etc. then I will select a winner!!!!!

I will announce the weiner..... uhhhhhhhhh

WINNER here and also contact the winner via a message and, if available through this site, an e-mail giving my ISP e-mail.This will ensure that only the actual winner gives me the address where the coupons will find a new home.

All I ask is that my ISP e-mail not be saved (helps prevent the spread of viruse, trojans etc. in case of infection) just as I will delete the address I am sent. I respect privacy even though I betcha' the folks using this site are good decent folks!!!!!!