Free oil for free advice (???????) (!!!!!!!!)

[obbop]

Time's running out!!!!!!!!

In a day or two I will be selecting a winner.

Get that advice in.

In case of a tie.... if there are two, or perhaps more, tips that are of equal value to me I will write the tipster's name on a piece of paper, toss them in the air and let them float to the floor. Then, with eyes closed, I will grope around like an idiot until I feel a piece of paper. That will be the winner.

Of course, there MAY be one tip that shines, that is obviously superior to the other tips.

I have peeked at the tips but have not given any thought to quality.

Okay....

Get those tips in!!!!!!

 

[obbop]

quote:

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Originally posted by Matt_S:
What a good idea! Count me in.

My advice is if you have a transmission cooler built into the radiator, replace it with an external transmission cooler, especially if you plan to do any hauling or loading, or even just high-speed driving. Everything I've ever read tells me that heat is the biggest cause of transmision failure. Improving the cooling is the best way to prevent that.

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Excelent tip, Matt. But, since I already have an external cooler and was already well-aware of controlling transmission temps I have to scratch this tip off the list.

Thanks anyway!!!!!

 

[obbop]

quote:

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Originally posted by mjo:
ummm, don't drive it!

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Mjo.... the initial reaction is one of "Hey!!!! The critter will last forever that way!!!!!"

However, 3 milliseconds later the thought processes bring the initial reaction to a screeching halt. Screeeeeeeech.

Yah know, it's actually worse to NOT operate the machine!!!! Many of us have witnessed or experienced or read about the many problems with vehicles that have just sat without operating.

Thus.......

BONG!!!!!! Yer tip is outta here!!!!!!!

 

[obbop]

quote:

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Originally posted by Schmoe:
This is all you need to know: change oil every 5K with 5w30 M1 and don't exceed past 4500 rpm.

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Scmoe, is yer' 1st name Joe?

Very good advice. But, I have decided to avoid the synthetics except, possibly, during the most coldest part of winter. I would rather run conventional and chage every 3K miles.

If you would have left out the "M1" part of the tip I would have considered adding you to the "potential pile."

Thanks for the input!!!

 

[obbop]

quote:

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Originally posted by Virtuoso:
Keep 'er clean and polished.

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Simple, basic, yet.... logical. Increases resale value and helps fend off rust. A general tip that is not too specific thus making applicable to me and others.

I already knew this, though, and I had already made plans to follow the clean/polish routine from day one.

Golly gosh, a fine tip but I can't include ye in the finalist's pool.

Thanks for the input!!!

 

[obbop]

quote:

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Originally posted by Kestas:
Don't let anyone borrow it!

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Excellent advice that all folks, with a few exceptions, should follow.

Never have let others drive my vehicles. Being a crotchety old **** makes it easier, especially since I, by choice, have no friends.

Hermits have such simple easy non-complicated lives!!!!!!

Great advice but, not applicable enough to me personally to make the grade.

 

[obbop]

quote:

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Originally posted by rpn453:
Take it easy on her until she's at normal operating temperature.

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There is some debate about the warming up to NORMAL operating temp. Some say that oil dilution and excess deposits can occur. Some say to let the engine warm a bit then drive slowly and sedatley and let most of the warm-up occur that way. In very cold weather some say to increase the idle time but to not overdo it. Some folks say idle as long as it takes to reach NOT.

I remember the neighbor that allowed his barely muffled 383 to idle for 1/2 hour every morning. It woke me an hour before my desired wakening time. The guy was pur white trash so discussing the issue with him was futile. I hope he died a horrid death!!!!

Anyway.... it may or may not be good advice. Perhaps it depends upon the situation, weather, and other variable aspects.

Since I have decided to minimize idle time with this vehicle I'm sorry to say your advice is not applicable in this particular case.

Thanks anyway!!!!!!

 

[obbop]

quote:

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Originally posted by John D:

quote:

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Originally posted by Virtuoso:
Keep 'er clean and polished.

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I disagree. 'Clean & polished' only attracts rocks & shopping carts.

Watch out for the other idiots driving around you. There's no point in keeping the engine & drivetrain running clean & perfect if someone runs a red light and spins you around on the road! Also, make sure you keep the front and rear wheels spinning at around the same speed (ie: don't be lightin' er up!

).

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Excellent advice that all should follow.

However, I am already a defensive driver. Also, my approximate 0ne-million miles in semi-trucks along with 32 years of 4-wheeler driving coupled with excellent training as a youth and, perhaps most importantly, an inner desire to not hurt others because of my stoopid actions and an ability to "read the road" has lead to an excellent driving record.

Again, very good advice but the awareness of the issue is already implanted within my thought processes.

Thanks!!!!!!!!!

 

[obbop]

quote:

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Originally posted by Matt89:
Rotate your fuzzy dice (so that both sides fade evenly)...

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Sorry, my monkey hangs from the rear view mirror. It's his 2nd favorite place next to hanging hus furry face out the window.

 

[Justin]

Obbop,

Being a Chevy truck owner myself, I feel somewhat obligated to reply to this thread and share a little insight on what I've learned through the years from messing with GM's finest...

After all the wrenching I've done on Chevy's, my simple words of wisdom are this:

Just follow the maintenance schedule in your owner’s manual! Most people really overlook and disregard all the little things it calls for (until they have a failure!). I think you'll be amazed with all the "little" things it calls for to check-up on over the course of ownership.

I know this statement sounds incredibly ridiculous, but I believe it to be the most beneficial thing you can do to prolong the life of your truck.

As witnessed by your presence here, you'll keep your engine, transmission, transfer case, and differential filled-up with good lubricants, but it's all the other small things that fail (and cause problems) before the "major items" give out.

[ August 20, 2004, 11:00 PM: Message edited by: Justin ]

 

[obbop]

quote:

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Originally posted by roman:
I would replace the transmission fluid with a synthetic fluid, like M1, or Amsoil, and replace the filter.
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Planned on filter and fluid replacement every 20K miles. At this point am not sold on synthetic. Maybe after the warranty period is over but, by then, it may be best to avoid synthetic!!!! (extended warranty; 6 year, 60K miles)


If you are towsing or anything like that, replace the fluid every 20,000 and the filter every 50,000. If your transmission pan does not have a drain plug for the transmission, go to the dealer and buy a oil drain plug. Go to a machine shop, and give them your transmission pan, and the drain plug you bought. tell them to drill and tap the transmission pan for the plug you gave them. Now, that takes care of the transmission.
***********************************
Filter and fluid every 20K. Don't see need for drain since I will be removing pan to get filter anyway.


Differentials- I would switch those over to a synthetic, maybe sneaffeurs, Royal Purple, or Amsoil, and just replace those every 35-45 thousand, or 30 thousand if your towing alot.
*************************************
I prefer doing business with the "BIG boys." Though expensive decided to stick with GM lube products (besides oil) to provide "ammunition" in case of a warranty claim fight with GMC.

You have the oil and filter down pat.

Coolant- change the dexcool, every 2-3 yeaqrs with quality Havoline undiluted dexcool, and distilled water
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Good advice. Is distilled good enough or should one also seek demineralized water?

Grease the door hinges three times a year. Every two years, power wash the hinges too get the dirt and old crap out of them.
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Cheap and easy to do. Didn't think it would need to be done so often but couldn't hurt.


Keep a spare belt in the back of the pickup (learned that the hard way with our car

)

(already do and have done so for years. Also carry other lubricants, tools, cold weather gear, etc.)


Bleed the brakes every time you change pads, its really cheap and easy to do. Lube the calipers properly with the proper caliper lube.

(Aren't there a few extra precautions to take with ABS?. And, not having a cohort to assist makes the task a wee bit more complicated. I intended on brake fluid flushing every 30-50K or so and letting a quality shop do it. Will think about this).

You could actually remove the bed and cab and get the rails and tariling arms, and underbody and all the good stuff rino lined. A friend did that to his 2004 chevy 2500. Looks real good and is a breeze to clean.

(Doing that would give GMC ammunition to deny a warranty claim regarding rust. Decided to forego underbody treatments and just rinse the heck out of it as often as possible. Brrrrrrrrrrrrr.)

Grease the weather stripping often, it will last along time if you do, and will seal really well.
(An area many forget about. Using 303 protectant)

Give the truck **** once in a while. When you do this, i recommend have premium gas in to reduce Knock Retard. High RPMS every once in while can be good for the valve seals and can clean out carbon deposists

(I have heard that advice over the years and it makes sense, especially if one avoids overstressing components. One can "get it on" without burning rubber and stressing critical components too much. Dropping the hammer after the vehicle is rolling, etc eases strain.)
Hope that helps you out a bit

actually, all that will give you more than 10 years of trouble free driving

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Some of this advice I agree with, some I don't. Comments added within your response.

Looking at specific tips and reminding me about how making that engine work about now and then can help keep a "clean machine" gives you entrance into the weiner's pool. Whoops. Winner's pool. Let's see if anyone else enters that prestigious position!!!!

 

[obbop]

quote:

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Originally posted by brianl703:
Test the battery every month or two and replace it BEFORE it starts getting weak.

Ensures longer alternator/starter life.

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Read about this in the past but had forgotten the advice. This advice is even more critical with all the modern electronics on today's vehicles.

Thou hath entered the coveted weiner's circ........... darn it... winner's circle!!!!

Congratulations.

 

[obbop]

quote:

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Originally posted by mjo:
But seriously... If you don't mind a couple days work, adding a bypass filter to your engine and transmission will substantially reduce wear. A bypass filter works as a secondary filter and slowly squeezes the contaminants such as soot out of the oil. The side effect of reducing wear is that it keeps the oil much cleaner and you don't have to drain it as often.

There have been several experiments done by credible institutions. By searching www.us.gov with the search terms of "bypass filter" you will come across several studies such as cost analyses and wear rates measured on fleets. The SAE did an experiment where they measured wear rates w/ and w/o bypass filters installed and they determine that the remaining life of an engine will be prolonged 2 to 3 times with the addition of a good bypass filter.
I seriously wonder why some happily throw such things as Marvel Mystery Oil and Slick 50 into their car when the proven benefits are questionable at best. These same people shun the use of bypass filters despite the fact that credible evidence and testimonials exist.

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Could also assist in shedding excess heat. Good advice but not needed with my environment. Perhaps if I was towing or hauling heavy loads. But, the thought of finding room for the filter and plumbing and worrying about the extra possible leakage points diverts me from what good be great advice for some people and the conditions they are operating within.

Thanks for responding!!!!!!!

 

[obbop]

quote:

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Originally posted by berge:
simple.

check this once in a while http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php

most intelligent automotive site I have ever seen.

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Awesomely incredible advice in its basic simpleness. Advice a multitude of typical idiotic vehicle owners should follow.

But, as found in the adage, "preaching to the choir," the recipient of thine advice is, obviously, already following it!!!!!!!!

An "A" for effort, though.

Hath thou considered running for political office. Ye have a firm grasp of the obvious and thou art assuredly a better candidate for Prez than the babbling buffoons running now!!!!!

"BERGE FOR PREZ!!!!!! BERGE FOR PREZ!!!!!!!

I can hear the huddled masses yearning to be free shouting it out already.

 

[obbop]

quote:

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Originally posted by c502cid:
If you live in a climate with snow, then underbody cleaning is a must. Salt, sand, gravel stuck underneath takes a toll. Every spring, run a lawn sprinkler in multiple locations underneath the truck for an hour in each location. This really helps to keep the underbody clean.

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Excellent advice. After the illegal aliens forced me from my no-salt home state of California to the snowy icy salred roads of Nebraska I made it a point to rinse the entire vehicle as often as possible. Public car washes shunned. Used home water. And.....I do utilize a lawn sprikler to access the bottom of my vehicles. Even then there are a few spots one has to aim the stream to reach. Brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr..............

Already do this so can't advance thee to the weiner's circle.

 

[obbop]

quote:

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Originally posted by Kestas:
I go one better and undercoat the car with rust preventative, concentrating on the nooks, crannies, seams, and blind cavities. I too keep my cars a long time. Obbop didn't mention where he's from, but here in Michigan car bodies give out before the mechanicals do. No sense in using synthetics, ps flushes, Zerex G05, or all that other good stuff we preach at BITOG if the body is gonna turn to crap. Few people like to keep their cars in top tune if the body looks like he11.

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Gave this a lot of thought. Did research. Checked warranty. Talked to body shop folks, trusted mechanics, and poked around the Web. Many plusses to this advice but their are negatives as well.

In my particular case I decided to shun undercoatings. Great advice and may be exactly what some folks need to do. In my particular case.... I decided to not use this route.

Thanks for participating, though!!!!!

 

[obbop]

quote:

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Originally posted by brianl703:

quote:

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Originally posted by c502cid:
Every spring, run a lawn sprinkler in multiple locations underneath the truck for an hour in each location.

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The local self-serve carwash is open in winter (even when it's below freezing) so I'll spray down the underside of the car even in the middle of winter.

It's really amusing to see the water turn to ice within seconds of hitting the car..

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And the person spraying the water. Already done so can't place thee in the circle of potential weiners.

 

[obbop]

quote:

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Originally posted by Kestas:
It's more amusing when it happens on your driveway. As long as I can get water flowing through the garden hose in the winter, I'll wash my car at home. All you really need is a pair of thick rubber gloves so your hands don't get cold. The car wash places recycle their fluid so you end up with a salt brine that is force-sprayed in all the nooks and crannies that may not normally see salt. This can't be good for the car.

I get strange looks from my neighbors when I'm washing my car next to large snow banks, but I personally think it's strange that most of my neighbors will diligently wash their cars in fair weather, but ignore washing when it's really needed!

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Great advice but it's already followed. I have also read/heard about the recycled water at the retail car washes so shun them.

Thanks for the input!!!!

 

[obbop]

quote:

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Originally posted by k1xv:
Line-X the bed, and if you do a lot of offroading, even the fenderwells.

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Good advice for some but for my uses I often need a bed that allows items to slide. I have a removable rubber mat for carrying items that can harm the bed.

Also, I have decided to shun undercoatings though some, especially off-roaders, should consider it.

Thanks for the reply!!!

 

[obbop]

quote:

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Originally posted by JustinH:
Here's some stuff I do with new cars.

Install a transmsission cooler. I use the B&M stacked plate ones, and there are a few good brands over on bulkpart.com. Also pick yourself up a magnefine inline transmission filter in there. They also sell them over there. Get some AN fittings and stainless hose and plumb your new cooler in. get the biggest cooler you can afford. The AN fittings and ss hose are expensive, but not as expensive as having a rubber clamped hose start leaking while you are driving.

Secondly, get the truck rust proofed. I'm not talking about rubberized coating, get it coated with oil once a year. This is huge.

Also get a top for the bed. You can either put a drop in bedliner in it or a spray in, it won't matter as long as you have a top on it. I use a OEM soft tonneau on my ford and I like it alot.

A bug guard on the nose of the truck will protect the paint from rock chips, and they now make a clear plastic front end protectant, I think its 3m. What you do is apply this to the front end on the truck, and it protects it from rocks and chips. Its like a thick clear film. A body shop installs it for you and you can not even see it when its installed, and your paint won't fade or chip.

Lastly put a remote starter on it. You will want one in the summer and you will want one in the winter. Its nice to get into a cooled or warmed up truck.

Justin

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Some of these are great tips but not applicable to my needs, desires, conditions, etc. Some folks may revel in a remote starter but I like to be able to see the instruments when the engine fires up.

I may consider the steel hoses vice rubber for my current external cooler but I will wait on what i had already considered. Don't want a top and consider them too expensive for whatcha' get. Shunning undercoating.

Some good to excellent advice here but nothing I can really use considering my current conditions.

Thanks for participating!!