Advice and question on possible non-oil change scam.

[bigjl]

I've been a member of this site since 2009 but haven't really had any questions to post, hoping the community can give me some advice on this situation. I have a one-year-old Ford, that was in for warranty work and I decided to have them do an oil change (12k miles). I got the vehicle back last week, and two days later noticed in the Ford app that my oil life still showed 43%; just about where it was when I dropped it off. I checked with the dealership and they claim an oil change was performed and they forgot to reset the computer.

Just now, I remembered that when I changed the oil at 6k miles I snapped one of the ears off the plastic oil plug about 75% of the way. It was still hanging on, so I left it and ordered a new plug and put it in my toolbox for the next oil change. Since I remembered this, I just pulled the cover off under the oil pan and there is the plug with one of the plastic ears barely hanging on. There's no way anybody touched that plug since I last did 6k miles ago.

The dealership is currently closed, so I'll have to call them tomorrow.

I thought about checking the filter, but unfortunately used a Motorcraft filter so that won't give me any data.

Does anybody know if Ford sucks the oil out from the top? I would highly doubt this but it would be good information to have.

And my final question (besides for an overall opinion of the situation) would be: If I sent a sample to Blackstone, could I identify if it is Ford Motorcraft oil like the invoice says, or Pennzoil Platinum Ultra which is what I used on my last oil change?

Thank you all.

Most dealers suck the oil out the dipstick

On my Jaguar XJL (with the Ford 30 Lion diesel engine) there was no dipstick but there was a tube with a cap that you attached a vacuum pump to in order to empty the sump and that was how Jaguar dealers did it

Out of interest I sucked the oil out once change and then got under and undone the sump plug and nothing came out

You didn’t have to push a tube into the suction tube, it went to the bottom of the sump, you just attached an adapter to the top

BMW don’t use a suction devise as no dipstick, and the dealer didn’t replace the sump plug cover after they did my 36k service, I know it was there because I was under the car the week before

Mercedes used a vacuum pump on my 2016 S350d as when I had one service done it was while you wait and I watched the technician do the oil change as there was a full length glass wall between waiting area and service bay.

Not saying that’s what happened in your case, the only way to know is do a used oil analysis as you have suggested

Is the oil clean?

 

[bigjl]

I agree with others, would change the oil myself instead of having them do it, never take the vehicle back there unless it is ONLY doing warranty or recall work.

If they suck the oil out the top, that is yet another reason to go elsewhere or DIY. The drain plug is at the bottom for good reason.

The idea that sucking the oil out the top is a bad idea or wrong is an internet rumour.

It’s been common practice in garages for decades.

You can’t strip the treads of a sump plug if you suck the oil out the too

And you do get as much oil out as using the sump plug if you use the correct vacuum tube and ensure it hits the the sump

 

[bigjl]

In my work truck (2022 f150 2.7 ecoboost) I took it in to dealership (boss told me I had to take it there because he had 1 free oil change because it came with it when he bought it lol 1 free! Anyway I know they did not change the oil . I know color isn’t an indicator but I checked oil when I was in parking lot at dealership when I was bringing it in, also checked immediately when I picked up truck again in parking lot. Same exact color, even took pics. Of course not sure if I can prove it or not as it was the first oil change. Unless there is a factory oil filter that is different than the oe ones from stealership. Anyway, got a new Fram FE oil filter along with enough oil to do change. Gonna change it and then maybe a month or two later take it to get another change and see if they really did it or not. I’ve heard too many stories about dealerships (especially ford) of not even doing anything but still charging for the service. I’ll update when then happens in a month or two. I don’t know why anyone would take their vehicle to a stealership for maintenance work (obviously warranty work is different) . But my boss won’t let me take it to my Indy even tho he only charges 50 bucks for a change. He and frankly most people I know think for some reason having your vehicle serviced EXCLUSIVELY at the dealership is the correct way to take care of your vehicle. I love my Indy and am so thankful I found him. Been going to him for years and he has never once tried to sell me an unnecessary service. In fact, many times he has saved me money because I brought it in to him thinking it was something worse but in reality it would be a simple fix. I remember the last time I went to a dealership to get oil change (I was young and dumb) it was a rav 4 with 18k miles. The guy literally tried telling me that I absolutely needed an alignment and that the vehicle would be unsafe to drive. Simply amazing to me that they get away with this stuff.

You must be really unlucky coming across all these Dealerships that don’t change the oil and that also charge for it.

 

[Dave9]

The idea that sucking the oil out the top is a bad idea or wrong is an internet rumour.

It’s been common practice in garages for decades.

You can’t strip the treads of a sump plug if you suck the oil out the too

And you do get as much oil out as using the sump plug if you use the correct vacuum tube and ensure it hits the the sump

I don't want to go to a garage that doesn't feel confident, through achievement, that they won't strip the plug threads.

I don't want to go to a garage that sucks it out the top. That leaves more sludge behind, and it's virtually impossible to get that last little bit out. Do the tube method, then take the drain plug off and see.

If I'm going to pay someone to do the work, they better do it right. This is a large part of the reason why I always prefer to DIY, far more than oil changes, so I know it was done right without excuses. Never stripped a single oil drain plug.

How long have vac pumps been around? Over 100 years, right? If sucking oil out the top was the better method, there wouldn't be a drain plug.

 

[bigjl]

I don't want to go to a garage that doesn't feel confident, through achievement, that they won't strip the plug threads.

I don't want to go to a garage that sucks it out the top. That leaves more sludge behind, and it's virtually impossible to get that last little bit out. Do the tube method, then take the drain plug off and see.

If I'm going to pay someone to do the work, they better do it right. This is a large part of the reason why I always prefer to DIY, far more than oil changes, so I know it was done right without excuses. Never stripped a single oil drain plug.

How long have vac pumps been around? Over 100 years, right? If sucking oil out the top was the better method, there wouldn't be a drain plug.

Not sure why you have come to that conclusion.

If you can change oil properly, as using a vacuum pump does, why would you waste the time and effort of stripping all the under tray off and risk the mess from the oil draining out when you can do it in less time from the top, it’s why many modern cars have the oil filter on top of the engine, to make maintenance easier and wiicker

I used to do an oil and filter change on my S350d in 15 minutes, no mess no fuss, no lying on the ground, no jack stands, no trolley jack, no drain pan to empty and store.

Took the same time to do the daughters Q2, a bit longer to do the wife’s Smart car as the oil filter is underneath, was tempted to drop the oil from underneath on that one but never bothered.

My 745Le will have to be drained from the sump as it has no dipstick which is a pain, imho.

 

[slomo]

I've been a member of this site since 2009 but haven't really had any questions to post, hoping the community can give me some advice on this situation. I have a one-year-old Ford, that was in for warranty work and I decided to have them do an oil change (12k miles). I got the vehicle back last week, and two days later noticed in the Ford app that my oil life still showed 43%; just about where it was when I dropped it off. I checked with the dealership and they claim an oil change was performed and they forgot to reset the computer.

Just now, I remembered that when I changed the oil at 6k miles I snapped one of the ears off the plastic oil plug about 75% of the way. It was still hanging on, so I left it and ordered a new plug and put it in my toolbox for the next oil change. Since I remembered this, I just pulled the cover off under the oil pan and there is the plug with one of the plastic ears barely hanging on. There's no way anybody touched that plug since I last did 6k miles ago.

The dealership is currently closed, so I'll have to call them tomorrow.

I thought about checking the filter, but unfortunately used a Motorcraft filter so that won't give me any data.

Does anybody know if Ford sucks the oil out from the top? I would highly doubt this but it would be good information to have.

And my final question (besides for an overall opinion of the situation) would be: If I sent a sample to Blackstone, could I identify if it is Ford Motorcraft oil like the invoice says, or Pennzoil Platinum Ultra which is what I used on my last oil change?

Thank you all.

1 year old with 12K mile oil dumps? WOW....... Stay tuned people.

 

[slomo]

Check the oil condition and color, it will be the color of light maple syrup if it was changed recently. Wipe the dipstick on a white paper towel.

Not with 12K mile oil dumps. OP is looking for a sludge mobile.

 

[Blueshound]

Not with 12K mile oil dumps. OP is looking for a sludge mobile.

OP said he DIY OC at 6K. This was supposed to be OC #2.

 

[slomo]

OP said he DIY OC at 6K. This was supposed to be OC #2.

Okay I'll bite. 6,000 mile oil dumps is still way too long. I don't care if you are using Rolls Royce Jet Turbine Aviation grade oil. Especially in these new GDI carbon chugger engines LOL.

 

[Ihatetochangeoil]

Okay I'll bite. 6,000 mile oil dumps is still way too long. I don't care if you are using Rolls Royce Jet Turbine Aviation grade oil. Especially in these new GDI carbon chugger engines LOL.

OK, I'll admit, I do NOT own anything GDI (carbon chugger), my small fleet is port injection, and I'm an Amsoil fanboy. I just can't wrap my head around such short OCI. I drive quite a bit and refuse to change oil on a monthly basis. I have been doing UOA now for 10+ years on several vehicles; I usually do 12-15K oil changes, I've done this for vehicles starting at ~27K when bought to over 200K when broadsided, and my engine oil is always "suitable for continued use" per test lab. Shall I take what you're saying to mean GDI is highly detrimental to the service life of oil? Or would you call me the nutso one?

To the OP: I can promise you that an oil sample sent off to a lab can tell you if the oil has been changed vs 6K used oil.

 

[TomYoung]

Again my tale of woe was my wife’s 2011 GM SUV where I would pay the dealer for Mobil 1. The car didn’t come with synth it came with dexos1 which at the time was $30 cheaper.

Upon 3rd oil change they accidentally stapled the work order to the invoice which said Dexos. Since that day, nobody except me has ever changed the oil on any of our cars. 11 years now.

If I got a new one, not sure what I’d do. I’d want the oil change on carfax. But I want the oil to actually be changed.

Are you confusing the brand (Mobil 1) with the manufacturer approval (Dexos 1)