Free car! 03 Maxima GLE with charging issues.

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Originally Posted By: mk378
Remove alternator and bench test it.

That the battery was able to start the car is a good sign for it, but clearly more charging is needed. As others said, battery tenders are not intended to recharge a completely flat battery, but it will eventually.


Can't get alternator out. Idler pulley nut rotted on solid. I rented an idler pulley tool from AZ and the bolt rounded right off like it was made out of chocolate. Thats never happened to me before. Bought a nut cutter, the only thing that fits in the opening, cant get contact because of the pulley. I'm screwed, looking at pulling the engine to replace an alternator. Why put the alternator and AC under the engine in the splash zone Nissan, why? !!!! Now I know why the owner gave it to me for free. Disgusted as I am right now.
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
The Junior's status lights never change to a flashing green (80%) or solid green (fully charged). Just solid red (charging).


solid red means it's not charging. charging is indicated by a solid amber light.

to get mine to work I have to have the charger plugged in then attach the clamps. if I have the clamps on and then plug it into power the light stays red
 
Originally Posted By: AntsinmyEyes
solid red means it's not charging. charging is indicated by a solid amber light.


edit- nevermind, solid red does mean its charging
 
I'm not inclined to trust the lights on the Battery Tender anymore; I had one hooked up to my trailer battery for months showing solid green (fully charged, maintaining) but when I actually used the battery, nothing worked. Checked with a volt meter, 7 volts completely dead. Was fully charged when I attached the tender do it.
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: mk378
Remove alternator and bench test it.

That the battery was able to start the car is a good sign for it, but clearly more charging is needed. As others said, battery tenders are not intended to recharge a completely flat battery, but it will eventually.


Can't get alternator out. Idler pulley nut rotted on solid. I rented an idler pulley tool from AZ and the bolt rounded right off like it was made out of chocolate. Thats never happened to me before. Bought a nut cutter, the only thing that fits in the opening, cant get contact because of the pulley. I'm screwed, looking at pulling the engine to replace an alternator. Why put the alternator and AC under the engine in the splash zone Nissan, why? !!!! Now I know why the owner gave it to me for free. Disgusted as I am right now.


Nissan was one of the last to switch over to automatic belt tensioners or stretch-fit belts - but it looks like the idler pulley is on a bracket that's bolted on - try cutting the belt and unbolting the pulley/bracket out as an assembly.

http://www.rockauto.com/info/163/FS99226_001__ra_p.jpg

As for the alt, Nissan uses Hitachi or Mitsu ones - they're fairly tough but a bad battery can wipe out the rectifier or voltage regulator. It's a roll of the dice for a reman one.
 
Quote:
Can't get alternator out. Idler pulley nut rotted on solid. I rented an idler pulley tool from AZ and the bolt rounded right off like it was made out of chocolate.

I've used my Bernzomatic TS8000 torch with extension hose on a bunch of rusted tight things (fasteners that even a 25inch breaker bar wouldn't budge). 30 seconds of keeping a low flame on and it pops right off. If you have nothing around that can burn, put the highest flame on and heat up the area around or the fastener directly, it will be off like nothing.

I'd recommend using the torch along with either of these non-drill methods:
1. Bolt extractor - Harbor Freight sells a set of these, don't know the M-rating of your fastener so you'll have to see if it fits:
https://www.harborfreight.com/9-pc-38-in-drive-metric-bolt-extractor-socket-set-67894.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-1-4-quarter-inch-drive-nut-and-bolt-extractor-set-66566.html

2. A stud extractor. Google "stud extractor", there are two types one that's kind of offset and one that's like a chuck on a drill, you'll have to determine which one would be best for you if you go this route.

3. A good long pair of vise-grips if the rounded bit is flush with the pulley, but most pulleys have the fastener recessed/offset into it.

I don't know the specifics of your engine but on a lot of 4-cylinder engines belt is on the side since the front of the engine is perpendicular to the car and the space is cramped. That's one of the reasons they make the serpentine belt tool a thin bar since you can't even fit a regular shallow socket on a breaker bar.

You might get better access with these tools in the wheel well. If the front of your engine with the belts faces the front of the car like Nissan does with some of their V6 engines, you might have an easier time putting the car on jack stands and coming up from under with the torch and tools, after removing the lower splash shield.

The torch (make sure it comes with yellow MAP/PRO fuel) and extension hose are $45 and $16ish respectively at your local Home Depot. I never struggle with rusted fasteners any more and regret ever having rounded anything off.

Quote:
Why put the alternator and AC under the engine in the splash zone Nissan

I've seen them do this on a engine in an Infinit while I was under there doing an oil change for someone, never seen an alternator that low before, made me dizzy thinking about the prospect of having to remove that.
 
Originally Posted By: nthach
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: mk378
Remove alternator and bench test it.

That the battery was able to start the car is a good sign for it, but clearly more charging is needed. As others said, battery tenders are not intended to recharge a completely flat battery, but it will eventually.


Can't get alternator out. Idler pulley nut rotted on solid. I rented an idler pulley tool from AZ and the bolt rounded right off like it was made out of chocolate. Thats never happened to me before. Bought a nut cutter, the only thing that fits in the opening, cant get contact because of the pulley. I'm screwed, looking at pulling the engine to replace an alternator. Why put the alternator and AC under the engine in the splash zone Nissan, why? !!!! Now I know why the owner gave it to me for free. Disgusted as I am right now.


Nissan was one of the last to switch over to automatic belt tensioners or stretch-fit belts - but it looks like the idler pulley is on a bracket that's bolted on - try cutting the belt and unbolting the pulley/bracket out as an assembly.

Yup this is not a bad idea, exactly how it is on my 2001 Altima as well, three bolts holding a black bracket that holds the upper idler.
 
Originally Posted By: nthach
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: mk378
Remove alternator and bench test it.

That the battery was able to start the car is a good sign for it, but clearly more charging is needed. As others said, battery tenders are not intended to recharge a completely flat battery, but it will eventually.


Can't get alternator out. Idler pulley nut rotted on solid. I rented an idler pulley tool from AZ and the bolt rounded right off like it was made out of chocolate. Thats never happened to me before. Bought a nut cutter, the only thing that fits in the opening, cant get contact because of the pulley. I'm screwed, looking at pulling the engine to replace an alternator. Why put the alternator and AC under the engine in the splash zone Nissan, why? !!!! Now I know why the owner gave it to me for free. Disgusted as I am right now.


Nissan was one of the last to switch over to automatic belt tensioners or stretch-fit belts - but it looks like the idler pulley is on a bracket that's bolted on - try cutting the belt and unbolting the pulley/bracket out as an assembly.

http://www.rockauto.com/info/163/FS99226_001__ra_p.jpg

As for the alt, Nissan uses Hitachi or Mitsu ones - they're fairly tough but a bad battery can wipe out the rectifier or voltage regulator. It's a roll of the dice for a reman one.



The vice grips are cutting through that soft rusted bolt like butter. But even if I cut the belt off I'm left with the pulley in the way of the bracket bolts.

Another view through the passenger side fender well. That tensioner pic above looks encouraging. But the tensioner in the pic appears to be in the loosened position. My pulley bracket bolts are covered, assume that the tensioner is locked extended for slack. With the bolt tight theres no loosening up, ugh.



All of this is to get to that alternator bolt, the actual problem.


It all started here with a lefty loosey turn. Cannot use a driver. No clearance.

On a positive note the muffler came right off.

Its a halfway decent car, only a tiny bit of rust rear qtr/bumper seam. Why I'm hoping this is worth it.
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: nthach
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: mk378
Remove alternator and bench test it.

That the battery was able to start the car is a good sign for it, but clearly more charging is needed. As others said, battery tenders are not intended to recharge a completely flat battery, but it will eventually.


Can't get alternator out. Idler pulley nut rotted on solid. I rented an idler pulley tool from AZ and the bolt rounded right off like it was made out of chocolate. Thats never happened to me before. Bought a nut cutter, the only thing that fits in the opening, cant get contact because of the pulley. I'm screwed, looking at pulling the engine to replace an alternator. Why put the alternator and AC under the engine in the splash zone Nissan, why? !!!! Now I know why the owner gave it to me for free. Disgusted as I am right now.


Nissan was one of the last to switch over to automatic belt tensioners or stretch-fit belts - but it looks like the idler pulley is on a bracket that's bolted on - try cutting the belt and unbolting the pulley/bracket out as an assembly.

http://www.rockauto.com/info/163/FS99226_001__ra_p.jpg

As for the alt, Nissan uses Hitachi or Mitsu ones - they're fairly tough but a bad battery can wipe out the rectifier or voltage regulator. It's a roll of the dice for a reman one.



The vice grips are cutting through that soft rusted bolt like butter. But even if I cut the belt off I'm left with the pulley in the way of the bracket bolts.

Another view through the passenger side fender well. That tensioner pic above looks encouraging. But the tensioner in the pic appears to be in the loosened position. My pulley bracket bolts are covered, assume that the tensioner is locked extended for slack. With the bolt tight theres no loosening up, ugh.



All of this is to get to that alternator bolt, the actual problem.


It all started here with a lefty loosey turn. Cannot use a driver. No clearance.

On a positive note the muffler came right off.

Its a halfway decent car, only a tiny bit of rust rear qtr/bumper seam. Why I'm hoping this is worth it.









I've been in some pretty awful jams before, you've got it good since you have great access to the front of the fastener.

The torch will get that off. If you don't torch it, don't even bother you're just going to keep rounding it off. Just heat up the nut, you'll be surprised at how easily it comes off.

After you torch, while it's still hot either use a vise-grip or use one of those bolt extractors that I mentioned, they grip on even if it's rounded.

If there's a choice between getting rid of the car or pulling an engine versus torching it, there's no contest. What's the reason you haven't already torched it?
 
Originally Posted By: NoNameJoe

I've been in some pretty awful jams before, you've got it good since you have great access to the front of the fastener.

The torch will get that off. If you don't torch it, don't even bother you're just going to keep rounding it off. Just heat up the nut, you'll be surprised at how easily it comes off.

After you torch, while it's still hot either use a vise-grip or use one of those bolt extractors that I mentioned, they grip on even if it's rounded.

If there's a choice between getting rid of the car or pulling an engine versus torching it, there's no contest. What's the reason you haven't already torched it?


I haven't already torched it because of the tight proximity. But its a good idea, maybe a pencil torch from HF up the street should be able to get up in there.

No socket driven bolt extractor will work here. I put the wrench in the pic near the rounded off nut so you can get the idea.


If i cut the belt crippling the car, would a prybar be able to bend that idler out of the way to get to the bracket?
 
One thing I've learned during this nightmare is spraying lubes like PB Blaster is not always the right thing to do. i think it made that soft rotted nut slippery, starting the rounding problem.

The nut in the center of this pic. Its in the way of turning the two idler pulley bracket bolts. Does it look like something that is in a fixed position, or once the nut is off can be knocked in? Looks like an enging block bracket for the AC maybe.
 
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
Can you remove the engine mount and either raise or lower it to gain access?


I only need to lower it about 2 inches but that requires removal of rusted crossmembers, frame stuff, etc. Raising much more, pretty much out. Would require substantial work with rotted nuts and bolts and tools/hoists I don't have, ugh.

I'm wondering how tough the pulley and its bracket is. If I can cut the belt and smash or prybar the pulley out of the way to get to the 3 baracket nuts and replace the whole thing.
 
No, I'm gun shy right now with all the rotten nuts bolts
smile.gif
. But i measured anyways. I would have to jack the engine +-8" to clear the unibody.

I'll go check this out more closely.
 
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A real smoke wrench will cut that nut right off, providing you have one. If not now might be a good time to invest in a small set seeing as you will have a ton more rotten fasteners to deal with working on cars in NE. This is one.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lincoln-Electric-Port-A-Torch-Kit-KH990/206959650?cm_mmc=Shopping%7cG%7cBase%7cPLA%7cD25T%7cTools&gclid=CNqQqNr-odQCFZWEswodwd8Ahg&gclsrc=aw.ds

For cheap money this should do fine for occasional use, just fill the bottles at airgas, its about $25 ea for this size. Note regardless you shiny new bottles will be exchanged for possibly beat up looking full ones every time you get them filled. I have not found a place yet that fills the bottles you bring while you wait.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Professional-Por...738.m2548.l4275
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
I haven't already torched it because of the tight proximity. But its a good idea, maybe a pencil torch from HF up the street should be able to get up in there.

The proximity doesn't look tight at all to me. You will have to angle the torch slightly upward but what I see in that picture you posted with the ratchet is not a problem, the flame from a TS8000 will reach it with no trouble.

The flame on the TS8000 is shaped like a stick, it's about half an inch in diameter, it's focused. You can dial the strength. I wouldn't bother with the pencil torch or anything butane. The MAP/PRO burns so much hotter and the flame is longer so you have more reach, a single tank (which only costs about $10 if you ever run out) lasts an eternity. If you're going to spend money on any torch I'd go with the TS8000 at a minimum otherwise you're just spending money on things that might not get this job or future jobs done, less grief.

It's worth noting that ever since I bought the TS8000 I've used it on a ton of rusted fasteners that I could not remove by hand using a breaker bar or that I risked breakage (rusted exhaust fasteners). The torch has removed every single one of them. So for me the success rate so far is 100% and the grief saved was worth every penny. I used it on two EGR valve nuts that were rusted on so bad, a twelve point combination wrench was starting to round them. Torched it for thirty seconds, the same twelve point got it off even after it already started rounding!

Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
If i cut the belt crippling the car, would a prybar be able to bend that idler out of the way to get to the bracket?

Not likely. Those two bolt heads under the belt on your picture are some of the fasteners for the bracket. If you couldn't get the single nut off I doubt you'd get much smaller fasteners off.

Also why would you bend the pulley itself to access the bracket bolts? Why is the belt still taut and on in the first place? Normally you don't cut belts off, you loosen the belt tension and remove it before you remove the pulley. Have you tried loosening the idler pulley tension? Because doing so would probably raise the idler pulley upward that might give you clearance for the alternator bolt. The idler pulley tensions up and down on a track on the bracket, look here:
pulley.jpg
 
You have to loosen the pulley bolt nut (the one that is stuck) to move the idler.

I'd really look into lowering the engine to get something 6-point on there. Possibly removing the top mount will be enough.
 
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