Frantz for Engine, Trans, Fuel, and Coolant

[Mykro]

I'm thinking of installing The Frantz on my Ford PSD. I'd like to install filters for the engine oil, Trans, Fuel, and Coolant. It can be done for the coolant.. correct? The problem is room to put all those filters.. Anyone have any suggestions
where to mount everything??

 

[deepsquat]

email Ralphwood ..one of Bobistheoilguy site sponsers...he also sells Gulf coast and Motor guard

 

[Mykro]

I PMed Ralph and got an answer.. He's "thee man"
I've got 3 frantz filters (Engine,Trans,Fuel) coming UPS.. I've also figured out how to setup a Frantz for the coolant too!! Which will be installed in the near future.

[ September 14, 2003, 04:43 PM: Message edited by: Mykro ]

 

[deepsquat]

How do you set one up for the tranny??? The colant???
I have one on my oil supply..but also own a second one that is just sitting on a shelf..looking for something to do.

 

[Mykro]

quote:

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Originally posted by deepsquat:
How do you set one up for the tranny??? The colant???
I have one on my oil supply..but also own a second one that is just sitting on a shelf..looking for something to do.

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Frantz has the hardware for the transmission and coolant installs.. Basically you splice into the return line coming from the transmission cooler.
For the coolant install on the heater hose returning to the block You must use Waterless coolant ( www.evanscooling.com ) Both of these filters would be installed as bypass not inline. So that fluid will be diverted to the filter a little at a time for filtering

[ September 14, 2003, 08:26 PM: Message edited by: Mykro ]

 

[Mykro]

Originally posted by Mykro:
[qb]

Originally posted by deepsquat:
[qb] How do you set one up for the tranny??? The colant???

[ September 14, 2003, 08:30 PM: Message edited by: Mykro ]

 

[Mykro]

quote:

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Originally posted by Mykro:

quote:

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Originally posted by deepsquat:
How do you set one up for the tranny??? The colant???
I have one on my oil supply..but also own a second one that is just sitting on a shelf..looking for something to do.

---

Frantz has the hardware for the transmission and coolant installs. You can also go to http://bypassfilter.com/ get a hold of Ralph, he is also a sponser of this board ..
Basically you splice into the return line coming from the transmission cooler.
For the coolant install on the heater hose returning to the block You must use Waterless coolant ( www.evanscooling.com ) Both of these filters would be installed as bypass not inline. So that fluid will be diverted to the filter a little at a time for filtering

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[instigator]

one Q mykro why do you need one for the coolant sys.? i understand the reason for the tranny and oil but not the coolant. please elaborate

i have the oil filters on both my toyotas and will be concocting a removable filter for both trannies (dont see a need to leave them in continuous)

 

[instigator]

oh yeh, how do you like that evans stuff? it looks kinda promising but am leary about the differetial metal contact (alu. head cast iron block)

 

[Mykro]

quote:

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Originally posted by instigator:
one Q mykro why do you need one for the coolant sys.? i understand the reason for the tranny and oil but not the coolant. please elaborate

i have the oil filters on both my toyotas and will be concocting a removable filter for both trannies (dont see a need to leave them in continuous)

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Change the element for the Tranny every 20,000 miles..I'd always keep a filter in the system. You need continous filtering to protect the transmission, Why take any risks.. I want my transmission oil clean all the time! As far as Coolant is concerned I've never drained the coolant in my vehicles and had it come out clean looking. The coolant gets crud running through it like anything else.. For instance.. You can buy state of the art motor oil and spend a pretty penny for it! But as soon as it gets dirty it becomes contaminated and worthless.. I don't believe that your coolant doesn't get filthy, but it will get dirty over time.. This Evans product is a bit pricey but they claim that it is good for 100,000 miles. I believe if its absolutely clean all the time thats when it is the most effective, a dirty coolant will be less effective!!
Evens makes Coolants for all engines even antiques and classics to high performance race cars to Diesel Trucks..I'm sure there are other makers of waterless coolants, Evans is what was recommended to me. and is what I'm probably going to go with. You need a waterless coolant for the TP element.

[ September 14, 2003, 11:33 PM: Message edited by: Mykro ]

 

[RalphPWood]

I don't sell the Frantz. I know something about them. I bought my first one in 1963. When I found out about the Motor Guard in 1966 I lost interest in the Frantz. The Motor Guard was a lot easier to service. Especially when it is mounted down low where it doesn't drain well. About 20 years ago I needed a Motor Guard for a Honda Civic. I called Motor Guard and was told they no longer sell the Motor Guard for lube oil.
I bought a Frantz from an Amsoil dealer in Salt Lake City. He put 10-40 Amsoil in transaxle and engine. It wasn't my car. At 150,000 approx. the salt had badly damaged it. At 350,000 the engine went south. I pulled the Frantz and put it on a Ford Escort. Now it's on the ATF of a Geo Prism. The Geo has a Motor Guard M-30 on the lube oil. I only need to chane the ATF once a year. The lady calls me every 4,000 miles and has me change the Motor Guard. When she lived 1000 miles away she changed the filter herself. She doesn't see the logic in doing it herself with me next door

The Frantz needs an external orifice fitting for the ATF. I drill the Motor Guard M-60 or M-30 internally so that all you need is to hook up oil lines to it in series with the oil cooler. The Motor Guard is the most positive which gives it a big advantage for fuel. I use Viton O rings for fuel. Motor Guard doesn't recommend using their filters for fuel. They can vision someone spilling fuel and causing a fire. It's a one qt gasoline bomb under the hood. I see their point. The founder of Motor Guard was big on fuel filters but those were different times. He is gone now. I put a M-60 on a new Powerstroke 6.0 for fuel between the tank and stock filter on the fuel pump. He is a retired U2 pilot and is a real fanatic about clean. The M-50 is expensive to set up for frame mount but is the very best.

Ralph

 

[therion]

quote:

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Originally posted by RalphPWood:
I don't sell the Frantz. I know something about them. I bought my first one in 1963. When I found out about the Motor Guard in 1966 I lost interest in the Frantz. The Motor Guard was a lot easier to service. Especially when it is mounted down low where it doesn't drain well. About 20 years ago I needed a Motor Guard for a Honda Civic. I called Motor Guard and was told they no longer sell the Motor Guard for lube oil.
I bought a Frantz from an Amsoil dealer in Salt Lake City. He put 10-40 Amsoil in transaxle and engine. It wasn't my car. At 150,000 approx. the salt had badly damaged it. At 350,000 the engine went south. I pulled the Frantz and put it on a Ford Escort. Now it's on the ATF of a Geo Prism. The Geo has a Motor Guard M-30 on the lube oil. I only need to chane the ATF once a year. The lady calls me every 4,000 miles and has me change the Motor Guard. When she lived 1000 miles away she changed the filter herself. She doesn't see the logic in doing it herself with me next door

The Frantz needs an external orifice fitting for the ATF. I drill the Motor Guard M-60 or M-30 internally so that all you need is to hook up oil lines to it in series with the oil cooler. The Motor Guard is the most positive which gives it a big advantage for fuel. I use Viton O rings for fuel. Motor Guard doesn't recommend using their filters for fuel. They can vision someone spilling fuel and causing a fire. It's a one qt gasoline bomb under the hood. I see their point. The founder of Motor Guard was big on fuel filters but those were different times. He is gone now. I put a M-60 on a new Powerstroke 6.0 for fuel between the tank and stock filter on the fuel pump. He is a retired U2 pilot and is a real fanatic about clean. The M-50 is expensive to set up for frame mount but is the very best.

Ralph

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Ralph, i have a 1995 Ford Econoline 150 1/2 ton with a 5.8L (351 CID) Windsor. I would just like to install a Crankcase oil bypass for now as thats all i will have money for ($200). Can you recommend me a good setup for my budget?? I want the best filtering possible so if it goes over 200$ i can deal with it but under 200 would be great - thanx.

 

[RalphPWood]

[/qb][/QUOTE]Ralph, i have a 1995 Ford Econoline 150 1/2 ton with a 5.8L (351 CID) Windsor. I would just like to install a Crankcase oil byass for now as thats all i will have money for ($200). Can you recommend me a good setup for my budget?? I want the best filtering possible so if it goes over 200$ i can deal with it but under 200 would be great - thanx. [/QB][/QUOTE]

The Frantz, Motor Guard and Gulf Coast 0-1jr all clean lube oil the same. Your engine doesn't know the difference. They are all designed differently. The element is what makes them superior. The Motor Guard is set up to seal inside the core of 1 5/8" tp. The Motor Guard as it comes from the factory is set up for 1 1/2" core Motor Guard elements. The Motor Guard elements are a special paper like coffee filter paper. The special elements have a core with a 175 F heat limit. It is the same plastic that they make gas cans with.
The Motor Guard is a one pass filter which gives it an advantage for what most Motor Guards are used for. Medical uses compressed air, etc. Motor Guard started in 1966 making only lube oil filters. They came out with a more expensive model later with a coating inside and out. It had 1/4" ports instead of 1/8" ports.
What I do is convert the industrial filter back to lube oil and fuel. It makes a nice filter. When they opened up the filters to get better flow that gave them a big advantage for fuel. They make me put flammable stickers on the fuel filters.
Getting to your question. It's not hard to keep it under $200.00 For the Ford I have a few Frantz dual filtration adapters. What drives up the price fast is if you need a bunch of hose. I have some Gates hose that is so tough that it is hard to get on the push on fittings. If you could measure from where you want to mount the filter to the full flow filter and email me the distance I can put together a system. I have 1/4" steel braid and fuel injection hose. We can work something out.

Ralph

 

[therion]

quote:

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Originally posted by RalphPWood:

---

Ralph, i have a 1995 Ford Econoline 150 1/2 ton with a 5.8L (351 CID) Windsor. I would just like to install a Crankcase oil byass for now as thats all i will have money for ($200). Can you recommend me a good setup for my budget?? I want the best filtering possible so if it goes over 200$ i can deal with it but under 200 would be great - thanx. [/QB][/QUOTE]

The Frantz, Motor Guard and Gulf Coast 0-1jr all clean lube oil the same. Your engine doesn't know the difference. They are all designed differently. The element is what makes them superior. The Motor Guard is set up to seal inside the core of 1 5/8" tp. The Motor Guard as it comes from the factory is set up for 1 1/2" core Motor Guard elements. The Motor Guard elements are a special paper like coffee filter paper. The special elements have a core with a 175 F heat limit. It is the same plastic that they make gas cans with.
The Motor Guard is a one pass filter which gives it an advantage for what most Motor Guards are used for. Medical uses compressed air, etc. Motor Guard started in 1966 making only lube oil filters. They came out with a more expensive model later with a coating inside and out. It had 1/4" ports instead of 1/8" ports.
What I do is convert the industrial filter back to lube oil and fuel. It makes a nice filter. When they opened up the filters to get better flow that gave them a big advantage for fuel. They make me put flammable stickers on the fuel filters.
Getting to your question. It's not hard to keep it under $200.00 For the Ford I have a few Frantz dual filtration adapters. What drives up the price fast is if you need a bunch of hose. I have some Gates hose that is so tough that it is hard to get on the push on fittings. If you could measure from where you want to mount the filter to the full flow filter and email me the distance I can put together a system. I have 1/4" steel braid and fuel injection hose. We can work something out.

Ralph

[/QB][/QUOTE]

Yay!, Thanks alot Ralph. I really appreciate your expertise and help. I will measure and report back to you asap!

 

[therion]

Ok Ralph. I measure from the full flow filter mount up to the spot i wanted to mount the filter on the support above the radiator hanging downward. I came out to be ~32". The path would point upward would thing cause any oil flow problems??

I also found a new filter called Trasko. It is a kind of Tp element although made from more compact paper and lasts upto 10,000 miles. What is your opinion on these filters??

[ January 28, 2004, 09:43 AM: Message edited by: therion ]