I've been looking at this for some time now and I'm not sure what is the best route to go. I am working with a '97 4Runner and Im flushing the cooling system. It currently has green coolant in the system and appears to be clean and in good shape. I generally like to put the original coolants in my vehicles, but I also like the added flexibility of bring able to top off coolants when necessary and I don't always have Toyota coolant on hand. I looked further into this, and I thought I would just get an aftermarket red coolant. Turns out though...the Toyota Red coolant in a hybrid (HOAT), rather than a full on OAT coolant. I have purchased the Peak Asian Red/Pink Coolant in the past, but I just realized they are an OAT, not a HOAT. I don't know the net affect of mixing an OAT coolant formula with an HOAT. Also, I would just use the Zerex Asian Red coolant, but they don't sell it in concentrate and the value is not there for me to use that (even though it appears to be an HOAT also). Any idea what happens if you mix an OAT with an HOAT?
Zerex Asian Red vs. Toyota Long Life Red Coolant and mixing?
- Thread starter Spddm0n
- Start date
@Spddm0n , Maybe you’re overthinking this, but this is BITOG…….its what we do! 
I was told that green coolant and Toyota cooling systems don’t play nice in the sandbox together. If you do transition over to Asian Pink/Red, make sure you flush as much green out of the radiator and engine as possible. That being said, I’ll let other experts reply………..
For what it’s worth, all 3 Toyotas in my sig currently have Asian Pink running through their veins. Just saying
I was told that green coolant and Toyota cooling systems don’t play nice in the sandbox together. If you do transition over to Asian Pink/Red, make sure you flush as much green out of the radiator and engine as possible. That being said, I’ll let other experts reply………..
For what it’s worth, all 3 Toyotas in my sig currently have Asian Pink running through their veins. Just saying
You should never mix OAT and HOAT. There are different kinds of HOAT ( phosphate free HOAT, phosphated HOAT, and silicated HOAT) and you can mix those but I won’t. I would flush with clean water and use the latest pink HOAT that Toyota has been using for almost a decade.
Car makers really turned coolant selection into a circus, the universal stuff scares me too.
Car makers really turned coolant selection into a circus, the universal stuff scares me too.
Pentofrost A1 is red concentrate.
Peak has full strength,
But it's more red then pink. If you want pink, get the Toyota fluid,
Not sure why you're concerned over a few dollars on a service you only do every 100,000 miles.
But it's more red then pink. If you want pink, get the Toyota fluid,
Not sure why you're concerned over a few dollars on a service you only do every 100,000 miles.
Thanks for the comment. I simply want to get to the bottom of the "circus" as somebody else put it.@Spddm0n , Maybe you’re overthinking this, but this is BITOG…….its what we do!
I was told that green coolant and Toyota cooling systems don’t play nice in the sandbox together. If you do transition over to Asian Pink/Red, make sure you flush as much green out of the radiator and engine as possible. That being said, I’ll let other experts reply………..
For what it’s worth, all 3 Toyotas in my sig currently have Asian Pink running through their veins. Just saying
. I have drained and refilled with 100% distilled water twice today, and I still have some green coolant in the system. I'm considering running a continuous flush of the system with water from my garden hose, but that might also introduce some level of minerals in the system. Probably less of an offender than some old school green coolant though. The question then is...why? What is in the HOAT that is not compatible with the OAT? Which component of the HOAT is the Inorganic component? I called and talked with Old World Industries today (makers of the Peak Red/Pink P-HOAT)...They said a couple of interesting things....First, they said their product is "technically" considered "hybrid" since the "P" in their P-OAT is phosphate and is technically and inorganic component. Next, they said their POAT is compatible with Toyota Red coolant. I wonder if that is inaccurate and he really meant it is compatible with Toyota's "pink" coolant.
You need to do 6 cycles of that. Distilled water is about $1.39 a gallon, so maybe $15-$20 worth to be done for the next 100,000 miles.
Yes! This is what I used to use, but now the cost is nearly twice what I pay for OEM Toyota coolant. Not sure *** happened here, and why they are so expensive now!
- Joined
- Nov 19, 2023
- Messages
- 980
say it with me green and red make jelly in the heater core.
If you are already green, stick to green, If you are running red run red, if you running pink run pink.
Keep it simple
If you are already green, stick to green, If you are running red run red, if you running pink run pink.
Keep it simple
I've never used that, but I am looking at it now. I build and sell a lot of cars, so I do this regularly, not every 100k miles (though none of the coolants I've ever used go that long - I think only the newest coolants for later model cars). It's too expensive now to buy the Pentosin product now, and the Zerex no longer makes a concentrate. I want a product that is compatible with what the average consumer might put in the vehicle down the road (if necessary). I used to be able to buy these coolants, concentrated, for about $13/gallon. Now the cheapest ones are double that, and the even the Pentosin is nearly 3 times that from my local Napa.
I prefer not to use the green coolant in anything anymore. I really want a longer service life than what that has to offer. I think the challenge I face is more understanding the possible incompatibilities of the aftermarket red coolants, to the OEM Toyota red coolant. I don't know yet exactly how the pink is different. Looks like they may have removed the phosphates from the pink coolants too.
No "technically" to it. Peak Asian red/pink, blue, green (only difference tint) all long service interval Asian Phoat AFs. Same attributes and aftermarket equivalent to Toyota SLL pink Phoat. Used interchangeably. Also Toyota has said, pink SLL compatible with older gen Toyota Red. So, I take that to be Peak Asian, Zerex Asian, even Napa Asian Phoat (Peak by another name) all perfectly compatible. I'd have no issue running any them in 97 Toyota even if some Toyota Red original, and/or mixed.
Looking at the Peak Red concentrate long service interval Phoat AF at AZ $23/gal, not too bad. The equivalent premix would have to be ~$12 gal to equal that. Only Napa Asian premix (Peak) currently comes somewhat close to that now. If one wants to do a complete system flush, concentrate the way to go.
Someone said above takes 6 drain and fills with distilled water and I agree.. I do it 6 times, then, get an extra 2 gallons of di water and drain while filling for 2 gallons. Catching it is fun. As soon as the second gallon is in, I shut the petcock and let it run until warmed up, heat on (its always on and always warmed up for each drain/fill.)
Then, one last drain. Water coming out should be clear as a bell. Crystal.
Fill with a gallon of concentrate. My sons car drains almost exactly 1 gallon, so works nicely (close enough anyway.) Then 50/50 fill of the reservoir. Squeeze the hoses while running with cap off. Then, cap it and drive. Keep an eye on reservoir next few days. May need to add a touch until all air is out.
Pay attention to capacity of whole system, versus what drains out. Adjust accordingly.
I have done it like this for 35 years, inluding going from DexCool to Peak GLobal Lifetime. Never had an issue.
Then, one last drain. Water coming out should be clear as a bell. Crystal.
Fill with a gallon of concentrate. My sons car drains almost exactly 1 gallon, so works nicely (close enough anyway.) Then 50/50 fill of the reservoir. Squeeze the hoses while running with cap off. Then, cap it and drive. Keep an eye on reservoir next few days. May need to add a touch until all air is out.
Pay attention to capacity of whole system, versus what drains out. Adjust accordingly.
I have done it like this for 35 years, inluding going from DexCool to Peak GLobal Lifetime. Never had an issue.
If you can find it, there's Recochem OEM Red.
If price is the most important concern, just use Peak 10x, a universal coolant that doesn't use 2-EHA
The Pentofrost A1 is available from Rock Auto, and it may or may not be worth it depending on shipping costs to your location. Don't forget the 5% off code
There is plenty of reason for confusion here, but I think I'm whittling through it. What hung me up is the "technicality" suggested by Peak, that their Phosphate is the inorganic part of the hybrid. Peak said (on the phone) their product is "technically" a hybrid, but they market it as P-OAT, not a P-HOAT, and the hybrid part is the inorganic phosphate. This may not be completely accurate. They simply plublish their product as P-OAT (see image). Toyota specifically says their coolant contains both inorganic and organic components (suggesting a "hybrid"), and one dealership publishes ingredients showing both components (see image). Pentofrost is advertised as a P-OAT, and suggests in the US market, it is "technically" catagorized as a P-HOAT (see image). Zerex calls their product a HOAT, but includes other data suggesting it incorporates a state-of-the-art phosphated organc acid additive technology (making it a P-HOAT), obviously suggesting the phosphate is ORGANIC, not INORGANIC as Peak suggested (see image).
The most I can deduce is that a P-HOAT is a P-OAT and is a hybrid. It looks like all the for-mentioned products are probably very similar, including the Toyota Red coolant, but likely with slightly different levels of components (proprietary to the brand), but still meet ASTM and JIS standards. Question is...can they be safely mixed?
It appears the Pentofrost product is the only product that markets being a replacement for the Toyota Red coolant (using Toyota PN: 00272-1LLAC. They also suggest you can't mix their product with "non-phosphated" OAT's, and eluding that those contain silicates and the silicates might be what gels up when mixed with phosphates (see image).
Ah, thanks for the explanation! I missed that comment on the 6 flushes. I used to do this with a fairly elaborate setup with a pump and a reservoir of distilled water. I don't have that available to me right now, so thanks for commenting about this. I was considering doing the same as you did, but flush all the color with regular tap water from my hose, and then try to flush that out with the drain/fill with distilled water. I don't know what would happen in that case, but I do know I won't be able to monitor how much tap water is still in the system, like I can the monitor the left-over green coolant color.
. Thanks!Thanks! I missed your comment earlier. Yeah, whereas these coolants are only marketed as being good for 5 years (though Peak suggests a service life up to 150K miles if you can get that many on the car in 5 years), I can see the value even if I sell the vehicle sooner. I want good performance and an easy cooling system maintenance experience.
- Joined
- Jul 10, 2022
- Messages
- 3,674
I had heard about Lexus techs who preferred to replace the pink with red on their own cars.
But without overthinking, my 2006 car came with pink so I’ve used it ever since (3 drain fills).
One thing is pink only comes 50/50. What if a person lives in Alaska? Red comes in 100%.
But without overthinking, my 2006 car came with pink so I’ve used it ever since (3 drain fills).
One thing is pink only comes 50/50. What if a person lives in Alaska? Red comes in 100%.
Interesting...I've never heard of that brand before. What's interesting is...they suggest the difference between the Red and Pink might be the phosphate added (Recochem says their Pink is Phosphated OAT and their Red is OAT). I was trying to find info specifically on the Toyota Red having Phosphate or not, and whether the phosphate is considered inorganic. Google says the phosphate is generally inorganic, so I wonder if the Toyota Red "does not" have phosphates and uses a different inorganic component, such that it is not compatible with all the other red coolants on the market. Of course, that would contradict the Pentosin claim that their product is compatible with Toyota Red, and it is a phosphated OAT. I think I'm getting there, but this is all very confusing.If you can find it, there's Recochem OEM Red.
If price is the most important concern, just use Peak 10x, a universal coolant that doesn't use 2-EHA
The Pentofrost A1 is available from Rock Auto, and it may or may not be worth it depending on shipping costs to your location. Don't forget the 5% off code