Unfortunately, That's not what they shared with me when I pressed them via email. I already posted this recently perhaps that's what the other poster was referring to.
Single or multi pass? nominal or absolute.
Nominal efficiency is defined at 50% efficiency.
If so, then the table makes no sense.
It makes sense if cumulative means each percentage is inclusive of all smaller sizes.
I don't think so?
In the filter industry, "Absolute Efficiency" is defined at the efficiency at 98.7%. Don't ask me why, but that IS the definition.
And greater ... it includes all particles that are 10.98 and larger.
Some of that depends on the size distribution of the test dust (and probably also the particle counter) used in the efficiency test.
What it means, based solely on those numbers, is that the filter is only 0.3% more efficient at filtering out particles 25.7u and larger than it is filtering out particles 34.5u and larger. So like every oil filter, when you're up near the absolute efficiency, the curve will look like that. Look at these curves ... they go asymptotic as the efficiency gets close to 100%.
Correct, and when I plot the numbers above on this same chart - assuming the numbers are accurate and follow ISO testing, etc - I get a curve that is somewhere between a Purolator boss and AC Delco Ultra Gold (which I don't think exists anymore does it?) I would think is pretty good for a quality built budget filter? Forgive my shaky mouse drawing.
If you want a filter that FLOWs? go with the WIX.
You can have both high efficiency and good flow. The "flowabiltiy" of the filter only defines the delta-p vs flow curve, and frankly there isn't really much difference in them (like only a few PSI, which the PD doesn't really care about) with hot oil even at full oil pump flow volume.
So the Frams I mentioned are a win win?
Yep ... if you want good efficiency and good flow, they do both.
I stopped buying filter end cap wrenches years ago because the filters I used them on would pull this stunt every so often, and I got sick of that. I have a good strap wrench (one size fits all) if I need it to remove a filter, and just install them by hand now.
I agree, when they work they work but I just tried changing the Boss filter on my Civic and it just kept slipping then I remembered that it's good for 15k so I'll deal with it the next change. On my Civic the band wrenches are tight because the axle is right there in the way, this is a D series that has the filter on the back of the motor up high.
Yes, a band or strap type of filter wrench needs some room to use ... my vehicles have enough room. I've never tried one, but one of these might be the way to go for tight quarters.
Something isn't right because when I looked up the Boss filter online it shows mine being 3.15 but the wrench I was using was for 2-7/8 to 3-1/4 which should've put it right at the upper end on the range, I kept pulling it to tighten on the filter but seemed like it just wouldn't tighten enough. When I get it off I'll have to measure it with calipers but it seems like it's like in between sizes, the next one down won't open enough either to fit on there. Worst case is I'll jbweld or epoxy the cup one on there to get it off because with the axle in the way you don't really have the room to drive a screwdriver through it and the oil sending unit is directly above the filter too.
I remember when getting the 2011 Enclave and looking, I thought ye gads that’s tight and the oil is gonna drip out on the engine Mount when I take out the filter.
