Fram Endurance Flashlight Test in canister

I'm very interested to see if the synthetic end cap version seals better........
If you are referring to ST using the OG ecore polyester end cap, possible it is better. That said, there was a Fram EG with fiber end caps posted recently that showed light from the seal area. Many assumed the fiber end cap would compensate for the any bypass piece seal area finish flaw. But, seeing as an ecore version would be metal to polyester over wider nylon core end, 'seems' a better chance to be ok. The Champ Labs ecore filters using polyester type caps are much less common now.
 
Just go get a Carquest Premium at Advance Auto or a Microgard Select ar OReilly and you'll have no more worries. It will cost more, but will be worth it.
I live quite far from a city that has those stores (about 35 miles each way).
It's convenient for me to order from either Amazon or Walmart with the free shipping.

I've made the following list of filter brands and models that fit my Honda Odysseys:

AC Delco Gold DuraGuard PF2057
Denso 150-2006
Ecogard X4610, S4610 (Synthetic).
Fram PH7317, TG7317, XG7317,FE7317
Ford Motorcraft FL-816: (80% @ 20 microns).
Honda 15400-PLM-A02
K&N HP-1008
Mobil Extended Performance M1-110A
Pentius PLB7317, PLXL7317.
Purolator PL14610, PBL14610, TL14610
SuperTech ST6607 (10K miles)
Wix 57356

The Pentius PLB7317 on Amazon had 12% 1 star reviews, with some fearing engine damage from the engine clattering noise after installing the filter. Also, as mentioned, Pentius filters have the 8 small inlet holes (not an issue, but still would prefer 10 to 12 large inlet holes like on the Fram, ST, and Honda OEM filters).

Of the filters shown above, which one(s) would be a good choice for a strategic low priced high efficiency filter that doesn't have the "oil leakage of unfiltered oil defect" or other defects, and a filter you would never have to worry about it damaging your engine.
 
I live quite far from a city that has those stores (about 35 miles each way).
It's convenient for me to order from either Amazon or Walmart with the free shipping.

I've made the following list of filter brands and models that fit my Honda Odysseys:

AC Delco Gold DuraGuard PF2057
Denso 150-2006
Ecogard X4610, S4610 (Synthetic).
Fram PH7317, TG7317, XG7317,FE7317
Ford Motorcraft FL-816: (80% @ 20 microns).
Honda 15400-PLM-A02
K&N HP-1008
Mobil Extended Performance M1-110A
Pentius PLB7317, PLXL7317.
Purolator PL14610, PBL14610, TL14610
SuperTech ST6607 (10K miles)
Wix 57356

The Pentius PLB7317 on Amazon had 12% 1 star reviews, with some fearing engine damage from the engine clattering noise after installing the filter. Also, as mentioned, Pentius filters have the 8 small inlet holes (not an issue, but still would prefer 10 to 12 large inlet holes like on the Fram, ST, and Honda OEM filters).

Of the filters shown above, which one(s) would be a good choice for a strategic low priced high efficiency filter that doesn't have the "oil leakage of unfiltered oil defect" or other defects, and a filter you would never have to worry about it damaging your engine.
If you like the Swiss cheese base plate holes, and want a filter with high efficiency and not a possible leaky leaf spring to end cap seal, then I'd pick the TG7317. They are high efficiency and rated up to 15K miles and have a silicone ADBV.

Or find a Premium Guard EX model for your car on Amazon.
 
If you like the Swiss cheese base plate holes, and want a filter with high efficiency and not a possible leaky leaf spring to end cap seal, then I'd pick the TG7317. They are high efficiency and rated up to 15K miles and have a silicone ADBV.

Or find a Premium Guard EX model for your car on Amazon.

You think the TG is worth the risk? There have been "ruffle fails" on those as well-- posted in this very thread.

Yesterday there was a C&P of an EG that looked great, but there have been Frams that looked terrible. Seems to be very hit and miss-- I wouldn't trust Fram until they start showing up as consistently non-leaking.

Are you thinking otherwise? Would be interested to know if you are!

I live quite far from a city that has those stores (about 35 miles each way).
It's convenient for me to order from either Amazon or Walmart with the free shipping.

Both O'Reilly and Advance have free shipping, and both have a current discount code for 20% off orders over $100.

So, order 11 filters (perfect for the number of changes you do) from either place, and you'll get what appears to be the only consistently good oil filters for $7.99 a piece-- just 82 cents more than a TG at WM.

Note that to get the discount, you have to order online for at-home shipping, but, in my experience, their shipping is free, fast and very reliable.


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I pretty much always go for bottom dollar on purchases, but I'm not going to risk having a leaky filter over a 10K OCI just to save a couple of bucks.

To me, $7.99 for either the MGS or CQP is the right product at the right price out of all the choices on the market today, and I would easily choose them over any filter in your list.

YMMV.
 
You think the TG is worth the risk? There have been "ruffle fails" on those as well-- posted in this very thread.

Yesterday there was a C&P of an EG that looked great, but there have been Frams that looked terrible. Seems to be very hit and miss-- I wouldn't trust Fram until they start showing up as consistently non-leaking.

Are you thinking otherwise? Would be interested to know if you are!
If the leaf spring has full contact with the fiber end cap, the ripples in the leaf spring shouldn't really matter. What's strange about that example is there's an obvious impression in the end cap showing full sealing contact, but supposedly it was still leaking light. Later in the thread, if the leaf spring was put into the orientation it was before the C&P then it seated better. So the original assembled orientation is important when evaluating the leaf spring seal on the fiber end cap.
 
If the leaf spring has full contact with the fiber end cap, the ripples in the leaf spring shouldn't really matter. What's strange about that example is there's an obvious impression in the end cap showing full sealing contact, but supposedly it was still leaking light. Later in the thread if the leaf spring was put into the orientation it was before the C&P then it seated better. So the original assembled orientation is important when evaluating the leaf spring seal on the fiber end cap.

Agree-- and this is yet another reason I think I actually prefer fiber endcaps, but IIRC, this isn't the only example. I believe there have been some other TGs that didn't look so good.

Would you be ok with using one yourself?

That EG from last night looked great-- until I see that on a regular basis, I think I'm staying away from Fram (unfortunately, as I really want to like them).
 
If you are referring to ST using the OG ecore polyester end cap, possible it is better. That said, there was a Fram EG with fiber end caps posted recently that showed light from the seal area. Many assumed the fiber end cap would compensate for the any bypass piece seal area finish flaw. But, seeing as an ecore version would be metal to polyester over wider nylon core end, 'seems' a better chance to be ok. The Champ Labs ecore filters using polyester type caps are much less common now.
Yes, those are what I was referring to. The ST3614 that my car takes still uses the OG ecore design. I haven't seen a light test done on that specific model yet. They are quite inexpensive so I think I'll grab one and do a C&P on it 👍
 
Agree-- and this is yet another reason I think I actually prefer fiber endcaps, but IIRC, this isn't the only example. I believe there have been some other TGs that didn't look so good.
There was one (EG or TG) where the leaf spring wouldn't sit all the way down because the center tube was in the way - either bent inward or too long, can't recall. A few bad examples doesn't mean they are all like that. Anyone reading this forum for a while knows every filter brand has some issues now and then that or outliers, not the norm. And some have issues that are the norm, and with enough data it becomes apparent which ones those are.

Would you be ok with using one yourself?
I would before using a rippled leaf spring sitting on a metal end cap with no seal between them. Fiber end caps have an advantage that they provide a natural sealing material.

That EG from last night looked great-- until I see that on a regular basis, I think I'm staying away from Fram (unfortunately, as I really want to like them).
It's probably more of a regular basis to not have an issue than to have an issue at the leaf spring seal on filters with fiber end caps. When I see way more instances of a problem with metal leaf springs sealing on a fiber end cap then I'll say there's an on-going issue. And as mentioned earlier, the leaf spring needs to be put back into it's original position on the end cap before doing a light leak test on it. It takes a set into the end cap while it's assembled, and the impression isn't totally uniform, so the leaf springs seal can't be accurately evaluated unless it's back in the same position is was in before the filter was cut open.
 
There was one (EG or TG) where the leaf spring wouldn't sit all the way down because the center tube was in the way - either bent inward or too long, can't recall. A few bad examples doesn't mean they are all like that. Anyone reading this forum for a while knows every filter brand has some issues now and then that or outliers, not the norm. And some have issues that are the norm, and with enough data it becomes apparent which ones those are.

I haven't compiled all the examples, so it's possible I'm remembering wrong, but it seems to me that there have been many different Fram failures of various types. In the past few months, it seems like virtually every Fram filter has had seal leaks, badly uneven pleats, core misaligned with the media, threads cut wrong, etc. etc.

I generally agree with you that all manufacturers are going to have a few bad products, and straight statistics will confirm your statement that one shouldn't make too firm of a conclusion based on those occasional bad examples.

But taking a more Bayesian approach, the clear context of recent Fram defects means the prior probability of defective samples from Fram is higher than for other manufacturers, so the new evidence of a defective product will result in a much higher posterior probability of a defective Fram filter.

I.e., the context here makes individual observations of Fram defects far more significant that it would be for other manufacturers, so a more Bayesian (rather than straight) statistical approach is more appropriate, and that approach makes Fram products more suspect based on individual defect observations than it would for other manufacturers.

At least, that's how I'm seeing it. And I think that mathematical reality is the basis for many to come to the same conclusion via simple intuition.




I would before using a rippled leaf spring sitting on a metal end cap with no seal between them. Fiber end caps have an advantage that they provide a natural sealing material.

Agree with you on that theory-- and it was speculated that perhaps the fiber endcap models might be immune to ruffle-induced leakage because of it. However, recent examples seem (at least to me) to indicate that the fiber endcaps are leaking as well.

I believe it was you that made the reasonable speculation that the fact that even the fiber ones didn't seal might indicate that in addition to the ruffle problem, the stampings might be so far out of flat that the springs couldn't even seal against fiber.



It's probably more of a regular basis to not have an issue than to have an issue at the leaf spring seal on filters with fiber end caps. When I see way more instances of a problem with metal leaf springs sealing on a fiber end cap then I'll say there's an on-going issue.

That's the correct approach to the science of determining the problem, but as a practical matter I would guess that most will be hesitant to take the risk of using filters that might end up providing those additional instances that would confirm an on-going problem. I know I sure would be!

Most will probably be like me and go the other way-- I'll start using them again once I see few/no instances of leaks.


And as mentioned earlier, the leaf spring needs to be put back into it's original position on the end cap before doing a light leak test on it. It takes a set into the end cap while it's assembled, and the impression isn't totally uniform, so the leaf springs seal can't be accurately evaluated unless it's back in the same position is was in before the filter was cut open.

Agree with that.
 
I haven't compiled all the examples, so it's possible I'm remembering wrong, but it seems to me that there have been many different Fram failures of various types. In the past few months, it seems like virtually every Fram filter has had seal leaks, badly uneven pleats, core misaligned with the media, threads cut wrong, etc. etc.
I was talking specifically about the fiber end cap Fram filters. Sure, most of the metal end cap models with rippled leaf springs are showing up quite often - even filters not branded as Fram. But examples of fiber end cap models not sealing at the end cap aren't as prevalent is seems.
 
Agree with you on that theory-- and it was speculated that perhaps the fiber endcap models might be immune to ruffle-induced leakage because of it. However, recent examples seem (at least to me) to indicate that the fiber endcaps are leaking as well.
As I explained earlier, one example was because the center tube didn't allow the leaf spring to fully seat. The other example sealed much better after the leaf spring was positioned in the same location as it was before the filter was cut open. The impression from the leaf spring isn't 100% uniform around the center tube on the end cap, so orientation needs to be the same for an accurate assessment of sealing performance.
 
I was talking specifically about the fiber end cap Fram filters. Sure, most of the metal end cap models with rippled leaf springs are showing up quite often - even filters not branded as Fram. But examples of fiber end cap models not sealing at the end cap aren't as prevalent is seems.

I guess that's where I'm seeing it differently-- the fiber endcap failures seem fairly prevalent to me. That, combined with the other failures, was the basis of my post (so hopefully it was responsive to your earlier point).

But, as I said, I've not compiled a database of Fram failures, so I could be wrong in my perception of fiber endcap failure prevalence!
 
I guess that's where I'm seeing it differently-- the fiber endcap failures seem fairly prevalent to me.
From what I've seen, not even close to the rippled leaf springs on metal end cap models. Pretty much every filter with metal end caps that has a rippled up leaf spring shows the potential leak issue. Not every fiber end cap filter shows the same level of that issue IMO.
 
I live quite far from a city that has those stores (about 35 miles each way).
It's convenient for me to order from either Amazon or Walmart with the free shipping.

I've made the following list of filter brands and models that fit my Honda Odysseys:

AC Delco Gold DuraGuard PF2057
Denso 150-2006
Ecogard X4610, S4610 (Synthetic).
Fram PH7317, TG7317, XG7317,FE7317
Ford Motorcraft FL-816: (80% @ 20 microns).
Honda 15400-PLM-A02
K&N HP-1008
Mobil Extended Performance M1-110A
Pentius PLB7317, PLXL7317.
Purolator PL14610, PBL14610, TL14610
SuperTech ST6607 (10K miles)
Wix 57356

The Pentius PLB7317 on Amazon had 12% 1 star reviews, with some fearing engine damage from the engine clattering noise after installing the filter. Also, as mentioned, Pentius filters have the 8 small inlet holes (not an issue, but still would prefer 10 to 12 large inlet holes like on the Fram, ST, and Honda OEM filters).

Of the filters shown above, which one(s) would be a good choice for a strategic low priced high efficiency filter that doesn't have the "oil leakage of unfiltered oil defect" or other defects, and a filter you would never have to worry about it damaging your engine.
Just got these under the tree!! Full comparison to PG coming soon. They look very similar if not identical to me. Case came out to $4.33 each from Amazon.

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From what I've seen, not even close to the rippled leaf springs on metal end cap models. Pretty much every filter with metal end caps that has a rippled up leaf spring shows the potential leak issue. Not every fiber end cap filter shows the same level of that issue IMO.

Ok- I guess we'll just continue to monitor the situation. Hopefully Fram will get the whole problem resolved soon.
 
Just got these under the tree!! Full comparison to PG coming soon. They look very similar if not identical to me. Case came out to $4.33 each from Amazon.

Nice! As a trusted filter tester around here, glad to see that you'll be testing these. Looking forward to hearing the results!
 
So here is my question and forgive me if it has been asked and answered but I wonder what is the real world effects of having your oil slightly bypassing the media all of the time? In a healthy engine is this really a concern? Won’t the oil get filtered out enough to prevent any extra engine wear? One of the reasons I am curious is because I have two oil filters that I have been avoiding using since they might be leakers, but would it really harm anything to use those up for one interval? (And then moving forward I would stick with the CQP filters)
 
So here is my question and forgive me if it has been asked and answered but I wonder what is the real world effects of having your oil slightly bypassing the media all of the time? In a healthy engine is this really a concern? Won’t the oil get filtered out enough to prevent any extra engine wear? One of the reasons I am curious is because I have two oil filters that I have been avoiding using since they might be leakers, but would it really harm anything to use those up for one interval? (And then moving forward I would stick with the CQP filters)
I’m personally not comfortable with it, others don’t mind. I don’t like paying a premium price for non premium build quality. Many Asian OEM filters are in the 50%@20 micron range and those engines can last many hundreds of thousands of miles. My guess is the leakers are in this range but no way to really know without ISO testing.
 
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