Based on my UOW of my last bulk dealer fill in Canada it WAS TGMO based on the ppm
Of moly! The Aug of moly blows my mind.
For those that advocate 10K miles OCI
- Thread starter Pelican
- Start date
Of moly! The Aug of moly blows my mind.
For me the whole 5K vs 10K debate comes down to whether or not I want to spend $3 more per month on oil changes.
I’ll explain. For a savvy consumer (which I presume that everyone reading this post is), the average DIY oil and filter change costs roughly $15-20 per oil change. This year alone we have seen $9 jugs of PUP for example; add a $5 OEM or $9 Fram Ultra and you get $14-18 plus tax . For simplicity sake let’s just use $20 for our calculations.
Assuming you keep the factory fill for the full OCI we are talking about 39 OCIs to get to 200K on 5K intervals vs 19 OCIs on 10K intervals. At $20 per OCI, we are talking about $780 vs $380.
I average 20K miles per year so 200K is a decade of usage. $780 per 200K comes out to $6.50/month worth of oil changes. $380 per 200K comes out to $3.17 per month.
Is it worth an extra $3.33/month to POSSIBLY lower the probability of a multi-thousand dollar repair? For me, the answer is yes; so I do 5K intervals.
I’ll explain. For a savvy consumer (which I presume that everyone reading this post is), the average DIY oil and filter change costs roughly $15-20 per oil change. This year alone we have seen $9 jugs of PUP for example; add a $5 OEM or $9 Fram Ultra and you get $14-18 plus tax . For simplicity sake let’s just use $20 for our calculations.
Assuming you keep the factory fill for the full OCI we are talking about 39 OCIs to get to 200K on 5K intervals vs 19 OCIs on 10K intervals. At $20 per OCI, we are talking about $780 vs $380.
I average 20K miles per year so 200K is a decade of usage. $780 per 200K comes out to $6.50/month worth of oil changes. $380 per 200K comes out to $3.17 per month.
Is it worth an extra $3.33/month to POSSIBLY lower the probability of a multi-thousand dollar repair? For me, the answer is yes; so I do 5K intervals.
But the rest of the engine was spotless?
Which seems to indicate the piston/ring system is the place the oil fails first in these engines. It’s probably the place of highest heat and stress and therefore the most likely place oil failure would manifest itself.
I’m not going to advocate for really long intervals like 15K miles or anything, but I take some of these videos with a grain of salt. There is the one for the Ford 1.5L that showed sludge after 5K intervals. I don’t buy it - I suspect whomever was doing the “oil changes” wasn’t even changing the oil or the filter. We know there are a lot of people that aren’t car smart that go to Jiffy Lube or wherever for the $19.99 change special. I bet many times, the oil and filter aren’t even being changed out and the customer is simply charged. Or if the owner is lucky enough to get a oil and filter change, it is going to be the least expensive stuff available.
And some of the engine issues are from poor design, not lack of oil changes. I had a 2018 F-150 with the 3.5EB and I did my own changes with PP at frequent intervals - around every 6K miles. And it had issues with the timing chain and phasers which are typical for that engine. YouTubers try to make videos around lack of oil changes resulting in those issues, but I bet I would have seen these issues even if I did daily changes.
And some of the engine issues are from poor design, not lack of oil changes. I had a 2018 F-150 with the 3.5EB and I did my own changes with PP at frequent intervals - around every 6K miles. And it had issues with the timing chain and phasers which are typical for that engine. YouTubers try to make videos around lack of oil changes resulting in those issues, but I bet I would have seen these issues even if I did daily changes.
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All of my comments in this thread are heavily influenced by my recent experiences with a 2009 Scion xB that I bought with 145k miles. It was burning over a quart per every tank of gas and a piston soak/solvent flush was all it took to improve that 5X. Clearly that was the result of unsticking and/or unclogging the oil control rings so it’s entirely reasonable to think a more frequent oil change interval might have had some influence on preventing it from reaching this state.
Frankly I was amazed when the piston soak worked.
Frankly I was amazed when the piston soak worked.
He's never said that. You lose a lot of credibility when you try to make a point using exaggeration.
He's a Toyota guy, and his opinion is to use the oil grade that Toyota recommends. There are a lot of people that follow the auto maker's recommendation. What's your point?
What had to be done, what was he going to do, to your exhaust manifolds? What model and year is your truck? What engine is in your truck? Without knowing that, it's hard to judge the value.
Generally, he only uses genuine Toyota parts. They tend to be expensive. Is $4,000 expensive for the work that he was going to do? Did you get other estimates for the job?
He did say that modern Toyota engines have tighter tolerances and you must run 0w20 oil and that other opinions are old school. I’m fully aware of the price of oem Toyota parts, I never use aftermarket, even for brake pads! Headers for both sides of my truck from Toyota is 680 bucks with tax
With his youtube success and the gullibility of Toyota owners in general, you would be a bad business man to not quote that kind of money for less desirable work. Fancy cars for the Mrs and putting his kid’s through college won’t come cheap.
Dealership servicing has gotten so bad that his bays will be stuffed full of cars of clients willing to spend dealership kind of labor rates. Sticking with OEM parts and oem viscosity recommendations simplifies his business as well. His channel and business couldn’t have emerged at a better time.
The Toyota crowd in general, love to have rules to follow from higher orders and they love to be preached to. I used to enjoy his videos, but they have become too much for me now. I say this as I drive a new Toyota product that is good but very far from perfect.
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
10k is three OCIs for me.
But within weeks that will change. I may kick it-up / double it to 6k when HPL enters my engines.
But within weeks that will change. I may kick it-up / double it to 6k when HPL enters my engines.
6k on HPL, that’s it?
Do testing.
The oci on my wife's car is 7,500. The first winter we had it, I happened to check the oil at 4,300 miles, it stunk of fuel. I didn't have any oil change stuff for that car on hand, I didn't have a filter or any 20 weight oil plus it was getting dark. At 4,400 miles I changed the oil and sent off a sample. It had 5% fuel. Running that oil for double the miles already on it would have been really not great for that engine.
If I can avoid most of the fuel dilution, the 5w-20 PP would shear down from around 9cSt to about 6cSt or less @100c before 6,000mi with a smidge of fuel dilution.
Test dat oil.
The oci on my wife's car is 7,500. The first winter we had it, I happened to check the oil at 4,300 miles, it stunk of fuel. I didn't have any oil change stuff for that car on hand, I didn't have a filter or any 20 weight oil plus it was getting dark. At 4,400 miles I changed the oil and sent off a sample. It had 5% fuel. Running that oil for double the miles already on it would have been really not great for that engine.
If I can avoid most of the fuel dilution, the 5w-20 PP would shear down from around 9cSt to about 6cSt or less @100c before 6,000mi with a smidge of fuel dilution.
Test dat oil.
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
I've been thru this a number of times here.
I am a bleeder due to blood thinners. If I go beyond 6k, my fingernails will bleed badly from biting them and I will end up at either Urgent Care or the Emergency Room.
Prior to my two hip replacements, I used to bite my toe nails also. Now I can hardly even touch my ankles with my fingers, unless I always remember to use my Amsoil bar soap.
That seems like overkill (the regular kind, not the dude on here).
As long as fuel dilution doesn't take out your oil, the hpl should be good for at least 7,000mi. Hpl is immune to viscosity breakdown from shearing.
It's so good I can't even make good use of it as motor oil.
Haha fair enough! I like the honesty!
If the manifolds have cat-converters built in and he is using genuine Toyota parts, I suspect 2/3rds of that price is the manifolds.
A 20+ year old vehicle in Northern IL with all the rust and other challenges there.
If you have the quote, how much was parts, labor and shop supplies, etc.
I.E. what is the breakdown of the quote?
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