First transmission servicing, need input

[DeathDynamics]

My '98 Nissan Altima is approaching 46K mi. and has never had a transmission flush or drain 'n' refill ever. I'm certain this vital service is needed, as I'm notcing a slight bucking when shifting that wasn't there when I got the car some 20K miles ago.

My budget is tight as I am moving... I'll be driving the car from Alabama to Texas, making some sort of servicing all-the-more neccessary. Especially with the extreme heat and stop-and-go driving my car will be faced with in Texas. Anyway, I'm trying to come up with a solution that's not going to cost me in excess of $100. May be difficult to do since I have no jacks, so everything will be done at a shop.

The two options that I'm considering are A) complete system flush with a machine, replacing all 10qt of ATF and refilling or B) a quick drain and refill of 4qt as per my Haynes manual recommendation for 30K mi. service, and a $30 trans. oil cooler. In any event, I'm getting a trans. cooler, whether it be now or after the long haul.

In short, what I'm asking is... which option is more beneficial to my car? Also, can I even expect a full trans. flush for less than $100 at a reputable shop?

Lastly (I know this post is running long), would it be recommended to use Seafoam Trans Tune prior to only a drain and flush? Would the chemical left in the remaining 6qt of fluid be harmful, even after being diluted with 4qt of new fluid?

Thanks for any help.

 

[kanling]

I would just do a drain and fill (maybe two) for now. Then you have mostly fresh fluid, minimal cost, and time to consider your options for the future.

 

[psudaytona]

I have never been a fan of putting cleaners into a transmission, they are too fragile and most of all expensive to repair IMO. I would just drop the pan, change your filter. You will generally get about 50% out with that method. If you do another drain in say a week maybe after that, thats another 50%.

Right now you have 100% old fluid.
1)Drop pan 100 x .5 = 50% old fluid/ 50% new
2)Drop pan .50 x .5 = 25% old fluid 75% new
This is what I would do, you can at least get 75% of the old fluid out. If you want more than that, although you really dont...
3) Will leave you with 12.5% old 87.5% new
4) Will give you 6.25% old 93.75% new
Now I would never take it to that extreme because if you are doing like 4+ pan drops, save the time and money and just get a real flush lol.
Just make sure to change your filter, if yours is at 46K and has never had service it will need one. My Daytonas A413 says to change filters at 12K.

 

[Kestas]

Doing the above recommendation will replace what is in the pan. This'll help your transmission.

A complete fluid exchange will be better. I think the going rate at shops is $80. You can also do it yourself, except from your post I get the impression you don't feel comfortable doing such a task. That's okay. We don't want to see you getting into something that's over your head.

For some people a flush may mean using chemical cleaners. This may or may not be true. I try to avoid confusion by calling it a fluid exchange.

Search the archives using keywords "transmission fluid exchange". There's been a lot written on this subject with lots of tips.

Take a look at the fluid on the dipstick. You'll see how dark it is and appreciate the need for a fluid change.

 

[The Critic]

I agree with the above posters. 50,000 miles is not a long interval at all and I wouldn't consider using any cleaners.

On most cars, you should be able to reach the transmission pan drain plug without jack stands. See if you can borrow some jack stands and ramps from a friend.

I would buy 12 quarts of Dex IIIH. Chevron and Pennzoil are good brands, and can be obtain from most auto part stores for about $2/qt. Buy a bottle of 10oz bottle of Lubegard Black HFM additive as well, from Napa Auto Parts.

Drain/fill the transmission once, then drive for several hundred miles and repeat. At the second drain/fill, add 1 full bottle of Lubegard Black.

If you want to have someone change it for you, Pep Boys does a transmission fluid exchange for $70. They run specials at least monthly. Do add the Lubegard Black for smoother shifting as Nissan MaticD is preferred in this transmission, though Dex IIIH will work.

It isn't necessary to drop the pan and change the filter at this point, though it'd be a good idea. 100K is fine for a pan drop if funds are currently tight. At this point, I would instead try to change out as much of the fluid as possible. Same goes for the cooler. I would put that on hold. Fresh fluid is the best thing you can do at this point.

 

[unDummy]

Nissans usually have drain plugs which makes ATF maintenace easy.
Avoid the flush. Put that money toward higher quality fluid and an ATF cooler.

Do a drain/refill now. Use a synthetic ATF.

A drain/refill takes ~refill.

Do not use ANY ATF additives. There is no need for them when using a quality fluid.

After every drain/refill, leave the battery disconnected overnight. This will allow the ECU/TCM to forget, and learn with the new ATF.

When you arrive at your new home, install an ATF cooler and perform another drain/refill.

You don't need jacks. Just drive one side of the car on a curb. The ATF drainplug is easy enough to get to.

 

[gfcrane]

My Maxima had no filter, only a screen, so dropping the pan for filter replacement is not particularly beneficial. You will also find a somewhat complicated system of bolting, with new bolts with pre-appliedthread sealant recommended.
I bought a case of Chevron Dexron III, drained and refilled three times in a month, and called it good.

 

[DeathDynamics]

Thanks for the excellent replies; tons of very helpful information. I'll go with the drain/refill before the trip, then another one shortly thereafter. ATF cooler to come once I get the fresh fluid in there.

Good stuff!

 

[muddawgs]

sounds like a wise plan. use a good quality fluid. mercon v is getting to be more popular with the nissan crowd. i like the stacked plate coolers and run the largest i can fit. the smaller hayden 676 also works well if space is tight. you could also put in a ext filter at that time also like a magnefine. there are several good tx flush techniques also when your ready. the technique written by kestas is a good diy way to do it.

diy tx flush technique

 

[Steelers]

Drain and fill with synthetic fluid. Its cheap and easy to do with the drain plug on your Nissan. Then repeat every 15K-30K or every year or two. M1 or Amsoil ATF will work great in that transmission, go with which ever you can find.

 

[DeathDynamics]

The Hayden Rapid Cool line looks good. I remember reading that plate and fin coolers are somehow superior to the tubular design. Using less space for installation is definitely a good feature, as I'm not sure exactly how large of a cooler I can cram in there.

I'm thinking about going with Pennzoil Multi-Vehicle ATF. It's a synthetic blend, from what I read on their site... should also be inexpensive compared to full synth formulas. Might be able to find it at NAPA.

 

[02StangGT4Foam]

Hey Death,
Check out www.bulkpart.com for a HUGE array of transmission coolers and unbelievably low prices. They also sell magnefine inline transmission filters for half of what I saw them for at NAPA. If I was you, for under 40bux plus shipping, you could get this Hayden Transaver cooler. They are very low priced and are a top notch stacked plate design. Good luck and hope this helps.

 

[muddawgs]

those are good prices. you can also get the coolers at az under the torqflo brand same part #'s and you dont have to pay shipping if you dont want to wait. these make flushes simple and clean. i think you'll be surprised how much of a heat difference you can tell by touching the hoses to it.

 

[Steelhead]

if you can get to the radiator tank ATF cooler line fittings, do a complete ATF fluid change....remove drain plug and drain...fill tranny with new fluid to full mark....loosen tranny line at tank and remove....put neoprene hose over end of line into drain pan....start engine...pump out 2 quarts...engine off...put 2 quarts of new in fill hole....repeat until total transm. capacity is reached and ATF coming out drain line is same color as new ATF...usually about 10-14 quarts...far safer than most shop power flush machines....gentle user flush and change....do NOT use any of the aftermarket flush add products, too corrosive and damaging to seals and friction materials....

Lubeguard products are ester based and do help add to tranny life
use the new Mobil 1 Multi ATF Mercon V rated, full PAO

no need to even bother with tranny pan, ramps or jack stands

use a plate and fin design aux tranny cooler, far less fluid flow restriction, critical in newer tranny designs
change the add on inline filter every 50k with ATF changes

 

[LargeCarMan]

Buy a set of car ramps....20bucks

Buy 5ots of synthetic atf...35bucks

Drive up on ramps, drain the 4 qts out.

Refill the 4 qts of atf, stick the 5th in the trunk.

55 bucks and forget the shop.

Drive that car to your new home and at 60 thousand...do it again. Don't forget to visit the HILL COUNTRY of Texas...and remember..."Don't mess with Texas"