Right on. When peers and those collecting hard data ante up and pay all the bills, then they will have standing to guide me in my choices. So far when I ask anyone else to pay for the oil and filters, all I hear is crickets.
First oil change on new modern SUV; how many miles
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GM is like a big ship with a small rudder.
In the transmission section, it should read change the fluid "The 1st oil change after 50,000 miles", in Canada it's 80k km.
The way GM wrote the owner's manual, it sounds like they want you to change the transmission fluid with the 1st oil change, then again at 50K miles.
Oh, and if it's a 4x4, the front and rear diffs are likely about a quart low. Fill to an inch below the plug with any NORMAL name brand of 75w90.
In the transmission section, it should read change the fluid "The 1st oil change after 50,000 miles", in Canada it's 80k km.
The way GM wrote the owner's manual, it sounds like they want you to change the transmission fluid with the 1st oil change, then again at 50K miles.
Oh, and if it's a 4x4, the front and rear diffs are likely about a quart low. Fill to an inch below the plug with any NORMAL name brand of 75w90.
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For me the answer is easy. To get the 0W20 out and xW40 in.
I get 2 free oil changes and 5 tire rotations with my new Avalon. The OCI is 10k but I'll change it every 5000. My commute is 2 miles.
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Originally Posted By: TiredTrucker
As for the GM OLM being so good, and it probably is for most folks, I still haven't found the dust sensor that lets it know I operate my vehicles on several miles of dusty gravel roads every time they are used. Until GM installs sensors that account for every possible scenario that can happen and affect the oil life, I will stick with what I am doing. Their OLM is for the average general driver, of which that is the majority of owners. No problem. Not dissing it, just a realization that it does have its own limitations.
I run synthetic oil, a centrifuge, two bypass filters, and I do UOA.
I simply reset the OLM when it gets low, and it doesn't go down the second or third time any faster than it goes down the first time. I don't know how it measures, and I don't care, but it is quite useless to me.
OP do whatever lets you sleep at at night. This is how engines are made, circa 2013: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wr4_B9EXWSo
Originally Posted By: Olas
Peer reviews and hard data mean nothing when I can get my warm & fuzzies by dumping the FF as soon as I get home, and again at 200, 500, 1000 & 5000 before I go to the recommended interval.
As for the GM OLM being so good, and it probably is for most folks, I still haven't found the dust sensor that lets it know I operate my vehicles on several miles of dusty gravel roads every time they are used. Until GM installs sensors that account for every possible scenario that can happen and affect the oil life, I will stick with what I am doing. Their OLM is for the average general driver, of which that is the majority of owners. No problem. Not dissing it, just a realization that it does have its own limitations.
I run synthetic oil, a centrifuge, two bypass filters, and I do UOA.
I simply reset the OLM when it gets low, and it doesn't go down the second or third time any faster than it goes down the first time. I don't know how it measures, and I don't care, but it is quite useless to me.
OP do whatever lets you sleep at at night. This is how engines are made, circa 2013: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wr4_B9EXWSo
Originally Posted By: Olas
Peer reviews and hard data mean nothing when I can get my warm & fuzzies by dumping the FF as soon as I get home, and again at 200, 500, 1000 & 5000 before I go to the recommended interval.
Originally Posted By: Olas
Peer reviews and hard data mean nothing when I can get my warm & fuzzies by dumping the FF as soon as I get home, and again at 200, 500, 1000 & 5000 before I go to the recommended interval.
Warm fuzzies will be all that you get.
Peer reviews and hard data mean nothing when I can get my warm & fuzzies by dumping the FF as soon as I get home, and again at 200, 500, 1000 & 5000 before I go to the recommended interval.
Warm fuzzies will be all that you get.
Originally Posted By: Bamaro
Originally Posted By: Olas
Peer reviews and hard data mean nothing when I can get my warm & fuzzies by dumping the FF as soon as I get home, and again at 200, 500, 1000 & 5000 before I go to the recommended interval.
Warm fuzzies will be all that you get.
NOT true. I will also get build materials out sooner than anyone else.
Originally Posted By: Olas
Peer reviews and hard data mean nothing when I can get my warm & fuzzies by dumping the FF as soon as I get home, and again at 200, 500, 1000 & 5000 before I go to the recommended interval.
Warm fuzzies will be all that you get.
NOT true. I will also get build materials out sooner than anyone else.
With flat tappet cams, I run it in, set the tune and change the oil & filter.
The oil looks clean on the dipstick, but like metallic paint in the bucket.
The oil looks clean on the dipstick, but like metallic paint in the bucket.
Changes the FF out yesterday of the `16 Suburban. 954 miles, 47 hours. Glad I did. About 1/2 quart overfull as measured by pouring drain oil in gallon milk jugs. Also there was visible metal in the drain pan resembling metallic spray paint.
I was undecided, but no regret now after seeing the metal.
I recommend changing early if you plan on keeping it for a LONG time.
I refilled w/ 8 quarts of Mobil 1 0w-20 AFE and a FRAM XG10575. Should hold me til Spring.
I was undecided, but no regret now after seeing the metal.
I recommend changing early if you plan on keeping it for a LONG time.
I refilled w/ 8 quarts of Mobil 1 0w-20 AFE and a FRAM XG10575. Should hold me til Spring.
You did the right thing. I always change the oil at less than 1,000 miles too. There will always be break-in metal in any new engine. I don't think there is any way to avoid it.
I changed my oil early at 5000 miles in my Camry. The other 2 older cars were changed at the regular OCI of 5000 miles.
Don't expect any tangible difference in engine longevity due to an early oil change. But if it helps you sleep better at night, go for it.
Don't expect any tangible difference in engine longevity due to an early oil change. But if it helps you sleep better at night, go for it.
Personally, I waffled and changed at 4k or so. After that I ran the iolm down and analyzed and it was dead bang on with maybe a 1500 mile cushion.
I agree with those who say that it's better that you should let your OCD fly with the other liquids like the diff which have ultra long change intervals and no filter.
I'm skeptical of those who claim to see visible iron filings in their 1k drain. This never seems to be observed in the many many uoas posted on this site.
The truth is, it probably doesn't make any practical difference. In a well maintained car it's usually something else that takes the car off the road.
If you want to keep the car a long time and keep the peace with your wife, you are probably better off haunting the detailing forum.
I agree with those who say that it's better that you should let your OCD fly with the other liquids like the diff which have ultra long change intervals and no filter.
I'm skeptical of those who claim to see visible iron filings in their 1k drain. This never seems to be observed in the many many uoas posted on this site.
The truth is, it probably doesn't make any practical difference. In a well maintained car it's usually something else that takes the car off the road.
If you want to keep the car a long time and keep the peace with your wife, you are probably better off haunting the detailing forum.
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