First oil change on new modern SUV; how many miles

[ymc226]

I'm 50 and remember when I was younger, read that on new cars, to do an oil change at 1000 miles to get rid of the "shavings" that may show up in new engines.

Now that it is 2016, I have a new Suburban. It uses 0W20, Dexos rated oil, I assume synthetic and the dealer has a sticker on my windshield to change the oil at 5000 miles. Has anything changed in modern engine manufacturing that would make early 1000 mile oil change unnecessary?

 

[horse123]

It was never particularly necessary. Although engines are built with better tolerances now and there's less stuff to break in therefore less stuff to wear away.

 

[zfasts03]

Wondering the same thing! I am approaching 1000 miles this weekend.

Will change oil and filter soon. I won't run past 50% on OLM the first run. After that, run it to about 15-20% or 6 months. We do LOTS of very short trips.

I will run:

Mobil 1 AFE 0w-20
Fram XG10575
Lube door hinges with Schaeffers Spray Lube
Grease front two outer tie rod ends with Schaeffers 238. 2 pumps each.

This will hold me till Springtime.

 

[ymc226]

Originally Posted By: zfasts03
Wondering the same thing! I am approaching 1000 miles this weekend.

Will change oil and filter soon. I won't run past 50% on OLM the first run. After that, run it to about 15-20% or 6 months. We do LOTS of very short trips.

I will run:

Mobil 1 AFE 0w-20
Fram XG10575
Lube door hinges with Schaeffers Spray Lube
Grease front two outer tie rod ends with Schaeffers 238. 2 pumps each.

This will hold me till Springtime.


What and where are these as I am unfamiliar with car parts and would like to service them while I am under the car. Just got some 6 ton jack stands and am waiting for my service jack to be delivered.

 

[zfasts03]

Outer steering linkage (tie rod end) right next to brakes towards front. Just by the inner diameter of the wheel. 1 zerk grease fitting per side. 2 total on vehicle. Wipe the zerk clean prior to hooking up grease gun. You will need a grease gun with a flexible hose and preferribly with pistol grip.

I will pump two pumps of grease in each zerk. At 1st service and probably 1 addition pump every 15,000-30,000 miles.

 

[zfasts03]

When I service mine. I will not use jack stands. As long as I don't gain anymore weight. Everything can be accessed without raising the car or pulling wheels.

Have vehicle relatively level. Be sure to have a drain pan that can hold 8 quarts. Most can't.

 

[zfasts03]

I will rotate tires every 7500.

1st 2 services are free with GM. However, I will be forgoing the free services, due to being very particular with my vehicles.

Plus I can do the work myself in less time/aggravation than having a dealer do the work.

Some people get 2 free from the dealer also, for a total of 4 free services. This just isn't for me. (A BobIsTheOilGuy kinda guy.)

 

[ymc226]

Originally Posted By: zfasts03
I will rotate tires every 7500.

1st 2 services are free with GM. However, I will be forgoing the free services, due to being very particular with my vehicles.

Plus I can do the work myself in less time/aggravation than having a dealer do the work.

Some people get 2 free from the dealer also, for a total of 4 free services. This just isn't for me. (A BobIsTheOilGuy kinda guy.)


I get 2 free from the dealer (Flemington) as well but will be doing the oil and filter myself. Shimmied myself under the front without lifting and it can be done on an unlifted truck but I would like more room to work with. Also got the Fumoto valve to replace the basic drain plug so future changes will be cleaner.

 

[CT8]

Change the oil.

 

[crazyoildude]

Absolutely No need to change oil at 1000 miles if you want do it at 4000 if it bothers you.. Use your oil monitor i usually wait until its at 10%

 

[Realtech214]

Nice suburban! I have the same engine in my 2015 and i changed the ff out at a little over 1000 miles. Just so i could sleep better at night. I used the free ones and than you can do them yourself. Even though i really love doin it myself, free is a pretty good deal. The dealer will use AC Delco semi syn 0w20 for the free changes. Enjoy the truck. 20,000 on mine no issues at all. Like a chevrolet is supposed to be!

 

[demarpaint]

This topic comes up almost monthly now. I change it early, and have been doing so for a very long time now. Trav brought up a great point in this recent thread.

Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: Branson304
Run the factory fill to 5,000 and change it. Have fun with your perfectly running engine for many years & hundreds of thousands of miles to come while saving money & time.

Changing oil early & at short intervals = useless.


You cant say that with any sort of certainty unless you can explain why Toyota, Honda and other car companies in Germany and maybe other countries still specify a 1K (600 mi) initial service interval that includes new oil and filter.
Granted their OCI after that are pretty long but they could just as easily spec a 5K initial service. IMO it just makes common sense to get any sort of machining junk out ASAP, engine factories are far from clean or sterile and machining metals does leave junk behind its the nature of the process nothing to do with cleanliness.
Newly machined parts do wear together causing particles to wear off even if they were assembled spotlessly clean, its unavoidable. Many say "well the filter will catch it before it sees the bearings" okay but what about parts pre filter like the pump? For my money its worth the cost of a OC or two to prevent possible scoring of the new pump if nothing else.




And the thread: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4238709/1

 

[HerrStig]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
This topic comes up almost monthly now. I change it early, and have been doing so for a very long time now. Trav brought up a great point in this recent thread.

Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: Branson304
Run the factory fill to 5,000 and change it. Have fun with your perfectly running engine for many years & hundreds of thousands of miles to come while saving money & time.

Changing oil early & at short intervals = useless.


You cant say that with any sort of certainty unless you can explain why Toyota, Honda and other car companies in Germany and maybe other countries still specify a 1K (600 mi) initial service interval that includes new oil and filter.
Granted their OCI after that are pretty long but they could just as easily spec a 5K initial service. IMO it just makes common sense to get any sort of machining junk out ASAP, engine factories are far from clean or sterile and machining metals does leave junk behind its the nature of the process nothing to do with cleanliness.
Newly machined parts do wear together causing particles to wear off even if they were assembled spotlessly clean, its unavoidable. Many say "well the filter will catch it before it sees the bearings" okay but what about parts pre filter like the pump? For my money its worth the cost of a OC or two to prevent possible scoring of the new pump if nothing else.


What moving parts are pre-filter other than the oil pump? If I had a VW Bug with NO oil filter I might look at it differently.

And the thread: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4238709/1

 

[Bamaro]

You dont need to change the oil at 1000 miles because you are worried about "shavings". Any shavings created will be taken care of by the oil filter. Thats what the filter is for, filtering solids.

 

[Eddie]

My vehicle came with an oil filter to protect my new engine. If I am going to follow the 7,500 mil oil change interval, I will change the FF at ~ 3,750 but, not the filter and again at 7,500 with the filter and then 7,500 after that. I feel I am overly conservative but, I do it myself and recycle my oil at Advanced Auto. Ed

 

[SeaJay]

I did my first change at a little over 7K, recommended interval is 7,500 miles.

 

[Pop_Rivit]

If there is so much contamination in your initial oil fill that the filter can't catch it and the contamination will cause engine damage, then it won't make any difference if you change the oil at 1,000 or 5,000 miles. After 1,000 miles of those metal shavings floating around in your engine the damage will already be done.

There are millions of engines on the road that are just fine after following the manufactures' recommendation for the initial oil change; if there were handfuls of debris floating around in a new engine then there would also be a corresponding increase in warranty claims.

 

[TiredTrucker]

Do what you feel is right and fits within your comfort zone. I change all my new vehicles factory fill engine oil before 2000 miles. Then I change oil every 5000 miles after that. The OLM means nothing to me. Just something stupid to reset so it won't go off. Nothing against others using it, I just don't care to. I am probably more goofy than most, as I also change out all the other factory fill drive train fluids before 5000 miles as well, and go to 50,000 mile intervals after that on those. Necessary? Probably not. Longer life than if I didn't do that? Who knows. But it fits within my comfort zone and I am the one paying the bills. A few quarts of oil is not going to break the bank, and it is not wasting resources since all used oil is recycled, re-refined, or used in some other way. There is no waste or abuse of resources, unless someone is dumping their oil down the storm drain. Very bad.

As for the GM OLM being so good, and it probably is for most folks, I still haven't found the dust sensor that lets it know I operate my vehicles on several miles of dusty gravel roads every time they are used. Until GM installs sensors that account for every possible scenario that can happen and affect the oil life, I will stick with what I am doing. Their OLM is for the average general driver, of which that is the majority of owners. No problem. Not dissing it, just a realization that it does have its own limitations.

 

[4WD]

Ditto - my GM OLM would have me at 7K ... The 10 mile dirt road (each way) down to my camp puts it at 5K ...

I think early change of un filter driveline (such as rear end in a truck) is more important and a bigger [censored] shoot than the engine since if metal is present early - it is there many more miles than filtered engine oil.
Gives you a shot at a better fill too ... Redline, Delvac 1, etc ... (Cover with a drain plug etc) ...
Several grand for the pumpkin guts.

 

[Olas]

Peer reviews and hard data mean nothing when I can get my warm & fuzzies by dumping the FF as soon as I get home, and again at 200, 500, 1000 & 5000 before I go to the recommended interval.