First hand high mileage experience
- Thread starter MC5W20
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I tend to buy vehicles with bigger miles on them. Usually if they're in decent shape, there 's plenty of life left in them, so rather than just pay for a number on the instrument panel, I figure the savings of buying something that's got ~120,000 vs. ~50,000 will buy lots of replacement parts. I've rarely, if ever, had that not be the case.
I've only bought one vehicle brand new, which was an '01 Jeep Cherokee, and if I had it to do all over again, I'd have found that same vehicle with some miles on it. The warranty only paid for one repair that it needed, which was a ripped splash shield under the front, and other than that, it was trouble free. Since I put so many miles on a vehicle, the warranty was gone in a year.
My Durango that I have now, I bought with ~90,000 miles on it, and it now has 119,000 not even a year later. I don't need to drive as much as before, but my tires still don't stay still very long. I paid $8000 for this vehicle last December, which was an absolute steal. I priced them out with lower mileage, and they were still bringing around $15,000 for the same thing with less miles. So far, nothing has failed that wasn't something I contributed to. I've trashed 3 sets of rotors already, but I still sometimes think my 5000# SUV has the same braking characteristics as a sports car that weighs half as much. Constant warped, blue, cracked rotors are a not-so-subtle reminder that I can't drive this thing as agressively as I'm used to.
I've only bought one vehicle brand new, which was an '01 Jeep Cherokee, and if I had it to do all over again, I'd have found that same vehicle with some miles on it. The warranty only paid for one repair that it needed, which was a ripped splash shield under the front, and other than that, it was trouble free. Since I put so many miles on a vehicle, the warranty was gone in a year.
My Durango that I have now, I bought with ~90,000 miles on it, and it now has 119,000 not even a year later. I don't need to drive as much as before, but my tires still don't stay still very long. I paid $8000 for this vehicle last December, which was an absolute steal. I priced them out with lower mileage, and they were still bringing around $15,000 for the same thing with less miles. So far, nothing has failed that wasn't something I contributed to. I've trashed 3 sets of rotors already, but I still sometimes think my 5000# SUV has the same braking characteristics as a sports car that weighs half as much. Constant warped, blue, cracked rotors are a not-so-subtle reminder that I can't drive this thing as agressively as I'm used to.
almost forgot...
65k miles on an '87 Yamaha FJ1200 motorcycle. I think of that as around 200k car-miles equivalent.
I was less than diligent in my younger years. It got an oil change every year (maybe)and was ridden pretty hard. Through it's life. I really can't think of anything that failed on that bike..ever.
This was a bullet-proof and fast machine...really trustworthy.
65k miles on an '87 Yamaha FJ1200 motorcycle. I think of that as around 200k car-miles equivalent.
I was less than diligent in my younger years. It got an oil change every year (maybe)and was ridden pretty hard. Through it's life. I really can't think of anything that failed on that bike..ever.
This was a bullet-proof and fast machine...really trustworthy.
94 Lumina APV 3.1 litre, 215,000. Engine still tight, burns 1qt/5000 miles. Started life with M1 5W30, switched years ago to M1 0W20, changing annually, about 15,000 miles.
Vehicle used hard, constantly towing #4000 trailer on 600 mile road trips in the summer.
94 Escort, M1 5-30, now 0-20, 205,000 commuter car. Annual oil changes =18,000 mi, also engine still tight.
Highly recommend 0-20 for winter mountain ski trips, instant starting at -35 when everone else is being towed.
Vehicle used hard, constantly towing #4000 trailer on 600 mile road trips in the summer.
94 Escort, M1 5-30, now 0-20, 205,000 commuter car. Annual oil changes =18,000 mi, also engine still tight.
Highly recommend 0-20 for winter mountain ski trips, instant starting at -35 when everone else is being towed.
1998 Chevy Lumina
72,340 miles
Lifter replaced, intake gasket, water pump, alternator, vacuum leak, blinker lever, HVAC fan, headlights go out whenever they want to.
72,340 miles
Lifter replaced, intake gasket, water pump, alternator, vacuum leak, blinker lever, HVAC fan, headlights go out whenever they want to.
Never personally took a vehicle over 100,000 miles. This is because I always traded in before hitting that mark. I suspect that there are some happy fellas out there driving some of my well maintained vehicles that upon retrospect I traded in way too early... Well that is a topic for another thread.
Current vehicles:
2002 Explorer EB - 82,XXX
2005 Escape XLT - 39,9XX
Both a steady diet of whatever high quality Havoline, M1, Motorcraft, Castrol happened to be a good deal at the time...
Current vehicles:
2002 Explorer EB - 82,XXX
2005 Escape XLT - 39,9XX
Both a steady diet of whatever high quality Havoline, M1, Motorcraft, Castrol happened to be a good deal at the time...
I bought my Volvo with 268k indicated. Car now shows about 276k indicated. That said, it suffered at least 2 odometer failures before I bought it, and one while I owned it. I probably put 1000 miles on at least before I noticed that my odo wasn't doing anything.
Curse Volvo's plastc odo gears!!
Curse Volvo's plastc odo gears!!
JHZR2
Staff member
We have:
83 MB 300D with 228k
96 MB E300D with 192k
94 Acura Integra with 176k
94 toyota previa with 200k
The MB and toyota vehicles have not really required much in terms of repairs, and they drive and feel like new. The toyota has not needed a thing besides tire, brake and PM fluid components, the older MB needed a new compressor clutch because it seized, but the system is still tight and blows cold; it also needed and an axle shaft because the rubber boot ripped with age. The acura has needed two alternators, a number of new rubber parts and seals, and two CV axles. All vehicles have needed a few rubber suspension components here and there, but those are really wear items, given all the miles on the road.
They all run like new, beat EPA fuel economy, start on the first cylinder in the winter, and all systems are 100%.
Knowing the histories, driving gently and respecting the vehicles, especially when they are at cold startup, and doing all the PM necesssary on time, without cutting corners to save a few bucks, are he keys to longevity wthout issue, and sure relaibility, even after 200k miles.
JMH
83 MB 300D with 228k
96 MB E300D with 192k
94 Acura Integra with 176k
94 toyota previa with 200k
The MB and toyota vehicles have not really required much in terms of repairs, and they drive and feel like new. The toyota has not needed a thing besides tire, brake and PM fluid components, the older MB needed a new compressor clutch because it seized, but the system is still tight and blows cold; it also needed and an axle shaft because the rubber boot ripped with age. The acura has needed two alternators, a number of new rubber parts and seals, and two CV axles. All vehicles have needed a few rubber suspension components here and there, but those are really wear items, given all the miles on the road.
They all run like new, beat EPA fuel economy, start on the first cylinder in the winter, and all systems are 100%.
Knowing the histories, driving gently and respecting the vehicles, especially when they are at cold startup, and doing all the PM necesssary on time, without cutting corners to save a few bucks, are he keys to longevity wthout issue, and sure relaibility, even after 200k miles.
JMH
1997 Lexus LX450 (Toyota Landcruiser). Bought CPO used in 2002 w/ 32k mi. on it. Now at 91k mi.
Ran Mobil Drive Clean 5W30 for a year before switching to M1 0W40, which I've been using ever since. Replaced clogged rad from mixed coolant types, new starter (both under warranty even though starter just needed new contacts). Barely broken in and plan to hand this down to my kids someday (if I ever part with it hehe)
Ran Mobil Drive Clean 5W30 for a year before switching to M1 0W40, which I've been using ever since. Replaced clogged rad from mixed coolant types, new starter (both under warranty even though starter just needed new contacts). Barely broken in and plan to hand this down to my kids someday (if I ever part with it hehe)
Purchased new:
'84 Accord 150,000
'86 Accord 174,000
'88 Accord 135,000 traded because of hail!
'90 Accord 245,000
'94 Merc Villager 325,000
'94 ES300 156,000 (current)
'01 Merc Villager 110,000 (current)
Mobil 1 used in all
JU
'84 Accord 150,000
'86 Accord 174,000
'88 Accord 135,000 traded because of hail!
'90 Accord 245,000
'94 Merc Villager 325,000
'94 ES300 156,000 (current)
'01 Merc Villager 110,000 (current)
Mobil 1 used in all
JU
1992 Honda Civic Si: 200K.
Got rid because I didn't want to pay for replacement worn parts (ie CV Joints, water pump, boots etc).
Never did UOA & fed it dino every 3500 miles.
Never overheated or leaked oil. Engine was a champ giving me 37mpg mix driving. Other parts wore out but not a Honda engine!
Got rid because I didn't want to pay for replacement worn parts (ie CV Joints, water pump, boots etc).
Never did UOA & fed it dino every 3500 miles.
Never overheated or leaked oil. Engine was a champ giving me 37mpg mix driving. Other parts wore out but not a Honda engine!
Had a 93 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the 4.0 L 6 Cyl. Had 203K when I sold it. Doors were rusting off, bumbers were sagging but the drive line was till fairly solid.
Would still get about 24 MPG if driven at 55-60 highway.
Had nothing but dino 5W30 all it's life but OCI's were 3-3.5K in nearly every case.
Would still get about 24 MPG if driven at 55-60 highway.
Had nothing but dino 5W30 all it's life but OCI's were 3-3.5K in nearly every case.
225,000 miles on a 1995 Civic EX Coupe bought new. They turned miserable with poor ride, worn seat cushion etc after 150k when the car felt worn.
Not a single mechanical problem except radiator at 150k. Otherwise oil change with dealer/mechanic bulk every 4k miles(2 months in my case). Ran perfectly and every power option worked when sold for $2200.
I never will buy a small car again nor keep one past its comfortable life(150k in this cars case)
Not a single mechanical problem except radiator at 150k. Otherwise oil change with dealer/mechanic bulk every 4k miles(2 months in my case). Ran perfectly and every power option worked when sold for $2200.
I never will buy a small car again nor keep one past its comfortable life(150k in this cars case)
1993 Ford Taurus 3.8 had 453,000 miles on it until a fuel line froze causine the engine to throw a rod. Original engine, 2 transmissions, Vehicle ran Pennzoil 10w30 most of its life as a company vehicle, switched to Mobil 1 in 2005 at 386.000 miles, never used or leaked a drop. To replace this vehicle I picked up a 1993 Mazda 626 ES 2.5 V6 w/ 242,000 miles on it, runs beautiful, just switched over to 5w30 Mobil 2 w/ K&N Filter - vehicle still very strong.
1978 Toyota pickup 578k miles, 10w-30 Castrol GTX, but I did a valve job and replaced the cam chain at 300k, bottom has never been touched. I do use a bypass filter, tp, and one on the fuel, and have a coolant filter. I think good weather and driving habits are important in makeing a vehicle last a long time. I've heard of synthetic oil but don't know why, in the Los Angles area, I should use it. On various oil changes over the years I have used Chevron oil, on a few changes. I think the filters, especially on the coolant have been important for long life, but useless if you're only going a few years and 100k miles.
http://dailystandard.com/date/2002/12/19/news/headline1.htm
Okay okay so it isn't first hand..
But its credible.
Okay okay so it isn't first hand..
But its credible.
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