First Experience with 5W-20 oil

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brucelee

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I juste changed the oil in my new Civic Coupe.

First time I have worked with this weight oil. Is it just me or is this stuff like water? I was amazed.

Sure hope it works like oil.

Weird stuff, I can see why it helps MPG.
 
I had that in my z32 300zx for about a month and it did not like it, I changed it at 1250 miles because it felt really...rough... dunno how else to explain it...
 
Make sure you run it 2-3 OCI's before you make up your mind. I had a Honda 4cyl engine that was run on 5w30 for 40k actually smooth out after 3 OCI's of Pennzoil Platinum 5w20. At first I noticed more mechanical noise but now runs very smooth.
 
The stuff I drained was factory fill at 1500 miles.

Like water to me. The PP I put in was just about as watery.

I assume this is fine, just really different than even 5-30.
 
I had that in my z32 300zx for about a month and it did not like it, I changed it at 1250 miles because it felt really...rough... dunno how else to explain it...


Z32`s definitely like thicker oils. I think it was Z1 that always recommended 15W50 Mobil 1 in Twin Turbo Z`s. That`s what I`ve been using for the past 3 years and it`s incredible oil. Alot of Twin Turbo Z`ers use 20W50.
 
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Make sure you run it 2-3 OCI's before you make up your mind. I had a Honda 4cyl engine that was run on 5w30 for 40k actually smooth out after 3 OCI's of Pennzoil Platinum 5w20. At first I noticed more mechanical noise but now runs very smooth.

Click to expand...


hey pita1,

I just changed to PP and it felt thinner then the MC. You think it will take xxx amount of miles to see the oil bind to the metals and create its own fingerprints (film) etc? This is 5w20 MC switched to 5w-20 PP? This is the first full GRP III synthetic I have put in after using nothing but GRP II and GRP III blends? So far, less RPMs for same power but I am hoping subsequent gas fillups will yield better fuel economy.
 
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I have a 4.6L v8 f150. Its spec'ed for 5w20 by ford.

I have been using motorcraft 5w20 for the past year.

I have noticed the vehicle does run smoother, and idle a bit smoother.

I have not noticed any gains in MPG, not even 1MPG.

I run the oil for 5k miles, and its never a problem.

I use motorcraft oil, its the best bargain out there as far as I'm concerned.

If your engine is not spec'd for 5w20, then don't run it.
 
The thin oil of my generation was 10W-30. And then when 5W-30 came out, it was widely thought to be for extreme cold conditions of below zero degrees Fahrenheit. 10W-40 was actually considered to be a medium weight oil. That's why I'm having a real hard time wrapping my brain around 5W-20 oils.
wink.gif
 
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I have a 4.6L v8 f150. Its spec'ed for 5w20 by ford.

I have noticed the vehicle does run smoother, and idle a bit smoother.

If your engine is not spec'd for 5w20, then don't run it.

Click to expand...

What are you comparing this to? Were you using an oil weight other than what is specified by the mfg?

( I have a hard time wrapping my brain around these butt dynos folks claim to have...)
 
Quote:

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Make sure you run it 2-3 OCI's before you make up your mind. I had a Honda 4cyl engine that was run on 5w30 for 40k actually smooth out after 3 OCI's of Pennzoil Platinum 5w20. At first I noticed more mechanical noise but now runs very smooth.

Click to expand...


hey pita1,

I just changed to PP and it felt thinner then the MC. You think it will take xxx amount of miles to see the oil bind to the metals and create its own fingerprints (film) etc? This is 5w20 MC switched to 5w-20 PP? This is the first full GRP III synthetic I have put in after using nothing but GRP II and GRP III blends? So far, less RPMs for same power but I am hoping subsequent gas fillups will yield better fuel economy.



Click to expand...


The engine I am referring to was a used car run on 5w30 by the first owner. At first the PP 5w20 made a lot of mechanical noise and turned jet black in 1000 miles to the point where I called the Honda dealer and explained it to them. They said that I should continue the 5w20 and the PP was excellent for that engine and was probably cleaning the engine from the past oil residue. They also said if I didn't mind the expense, they recommended 3 oil changes in 10,000 miles to clean the engine. So, I did. It's about 12,000 miles later and I still get mechanical noise at cold start but this engine now gets really quiet when it reaches operating temperature. Runs great, more pickup and 2 extra MPG. Go figure?
smile.gif
But it says 5w20 on the cap. FWIW, it now takes about 2500 miles before the oil turns black and I am doing 5000 OCI's with this vehicle. All is well.
 
Quote:

The stuff I drained was factory fill at 1500 miles.

Like water to me. The PP I put in was just about as watery.

I assume this is fine, just really different than even 5-30.

Click to expand...


You drained the magic Honda factory fill early?
nono.gif
grin.gif


The 5W20 will work fine. Follow the OLM and drive it. The PP seems to be a good product, although if you want something a little closer to the factory fill I would put some SM rated Havoline in it.
 
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Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

Make sure you run it 2-3 OCI's before you make up your mind. I had a Honda 4cyl engine that was run on 5w30 for 40k actually smooth out after 3 OCI's of Pennzoil Platinum 5w20. At first I noticed more mechanical noise but now runs very smooth.

Click to expand...


hey pita1,

I just changed to PP and it felt thinner then the MC. You think it will take xxx amount of miles to see the oil bind to the metals and create its own fingerprints (film) etc? This is 5w20 MC switched to 5w-20 PP? This is the first full GRP III synthetic I have put in after using nothing but GRP II and GRP III blends? So far, less RPMs for same power but I am hoping subsequent gas fillups will yield better fuel economy.



Click to expand...


The engine I am referring to was a used car run on 5w30 by the first owner. At first the PP 5w20 made a lot of mechanical noise and turned jet black in 1000 miles to the point where I called the Honda dealer and explained it to them. They said that I should continue the 5w20 and the PP was excellent for that engine and was probably cleaning the engine from the past oil residue. They also said if I didn't mind the expense, they recommended 3 oil changes in 10,000 miles to clean the engine. So, I did. It's about 12,000 miles later and I still get mechanical noise at cold start but this engine now gets really quiet when it reaches operating temperature. Runs great, more pickup and 2 extra MPG. Go figure?
smile.gif
But it says 5w20 on the cap. FWIW, it now takes about 2500 miles before the oil turns black and I am doing 5000 OCI's with this vehicle. All is well.

Click to expand...


Oh that's great, 2 more mpg?! Whoa! The good news is your great gas mileage is staying after even after the first OCI and on to 2 or 3 OCIs. This is the reason I switched to PP from MC because I needed a long-term solution and I didn't see MC as something I wanted or even 'could' use long-term. The MC faded badly at 5000 miles. Great oil for 5k but since I did no UOAs, I have no idea if it is protecting my metals and then could it protect metals if I used it over and over again or would it sludge me up? This is the MC I am talking about. Hey, no matter if it is MC or PP, I've only used 5w20 and never 5w-30 so I am thinking I might not get the 1-2 mpg but then again, this is my first OCI with PP and I've only driven about 300 miles..after 3 OCI, I could get the smoothness and mpg that you got! I noticed that I am getting better mileage then the MC but it's too early because the MC was old when I took it out at 5200 miles when I took it out. The gas mileage with the MC went down as the oil got old so that right there tells me this oil ain't going to cut it not only for long intervals but it might not protect long-term. Besides, I needed something that can go longer (although I am keeping the same 5-6k OCIs) because if I want to race, on the street (rarely) and on the track, I can run a synthetic to keep me protected for the same 5-6k OCIs!
 
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I am running GTX 5w20 now... I havent found any uoa for it in uoa section. Any idea how long I should leave it in there? Any pros and cons versus using 5w30 in my mitsu which is specd to 5w20? Manual strongly recommends 5w20 for better fuel consumption figures and cold starts. It also states that I "may" use 10w30 when operating temps are at or above 100F. I guess operating temps will always be higher than outside temps in which case 5w30 should be fine for me (atleast spring to fall when it doesnt get below zero celsius around here)
 
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I am running GTX 5w20 now... I havent found any uoa for it in uoa section. Any idea how long I should leave it in there?

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8000km should be completely safe.

There is a UOA in there on GTX 5w20, from my wife's Honda. Although it was "bulk" GTX 5w20 from a local shop, so it's possible it was older SL formulation.

Here is that UOA:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...ge=8#Post798085

I will have another UOA with GTX 5w20 around the end of May. It'll have about 4000 miles on it (I'm going to cut the run short since the thermostat was stuck open for almost the entire winter here and the engine took a lot longer to warm up)
 
I have MC in the Civic now, but will be switching to PP to reduce my stash. should have a UOA on the MC (first OCI though, so who knows what's left over from the last OCI brand) in a few weeks.
 
If the PP 5W-20 is described as "watery" as poured out of the bottle, keep in mind that at room temperature, most motor oils are 10X times thicker than the 100C(210F) full operating temp viscosity.

A simple comparison:
smile.gif


Water................1 cSt

PP 5W-20@ 72F.......100cSt

PP 5W-20@ 210F....8.46 cSt
 
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