Ever a Case for Thicker Oil?

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Apparently, carbon build-up can cause a similar noise like piston slap. Or, the excessive carbon build-up can cause the piston to rock more in the bore.

Sucking in windshield washer fluid is really no different than the "old school" approach of sucking in water.

Read about doing this, why of course, on the interweb.

And, yeah, I plan to try some GM top engine cleaner. Btw, all is well with the truck.
 
What happened to the good ole Italian tune-up from time to time?

I read things about combustion chamber deposits raising compression which can lead to knock. (A true statement but not the whole truth IMO) My experience has been that motors or individual cylinders that have been experiencing light ping have little to no carbon build up. The whole thing kind of takes care of itself. So the "sell" or scare of combustion chamber deposits is mostly marketing or lame excuse for engines that are noisy for some other reason. Fuel knock and piston slap is completely different sound. If compression or squish velocity's were so high as to knock at idle, you'd destroy the motor as soon as you opened the throttle to drive away.
GM use a modern short abbreviated skirt piston, compared to pistons of the past. Being short it rocks more in the bore when cold, and being short the bottom edge of the skirt is thicker than the older longer pistons. So it takes longer for the heat soak to expand the piston to clearance.
 
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What happened to the good ole Italian tune-up from time to time?






Will a lot of full throttle blasts really clean out ALL the carbon though? I go to the dragstrip a lot, and sometimes I'll make as many as 15 or 20 runs in one day. I've always wondered if I've eliminated any carbon buildup at the end of a day of racing like that?
 
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I just disconnected the supply line to windshield washer nozzles, found a length of clear hose in the garage, connected this hose to the intake manifold via the PCV port.





When you run the motor with the PCV disconnected, pressure in the crankcase increases and oil can be forced out a bad gasket or past the ring pack.

folks have better success water decarbonizing from the power brakes booster vacuum hose. But if a cylinder floods the engine could hydrolock.

Gumout injector spray has detailed instructions on the can for safely cleaning from the throttle body. Unless you have a spare car, this is the best method of cleaning/decarbonizing I know of.
 
I just got the engine good and hot, pulled the air ducting off and slowly poured water in the throttle body throat from a 12 oz bottle, while holding the throttle at high rpm, say 2 or 3 thousand. The water will try to kill the engine, so you will need to work the throttle. After 12 oz of water, the area around the van smelled like spent firecackers. Must have gotten some carbon out, eh?
 
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Now drive the van to suck out any water that may be standing in the intake manifold/egr valve.
 
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We made 37 runs on the same crankshaft with our Goodguys Nostalgia Top Fuel Dragster. Considering that nearly all of those runs are over 240 mph and over 10,000 rpm, we are more than impressed with Red Line Oil's 70wt nitro oil forever.







Drag Racing. 70W Red Line oil.
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