Euro oil spec thats better than dexos 1/r?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Why doesn't it?
For starters, the M1 0W-40 has a higher HTHS even after the HPL shear tests than the QS 5W-30 does out of the bottle. Second, it has an even more robust additive package (on paper). Given both of these, it seems dubious that the poster's claims of higher oil pressure at high temps and less wear are actually true.
 
How does it protect better. I am all ears about methodology and data!

1) If the numbers don't line up with the result then perhaps it's time to re-evaluate your approach.

I already described that Quaker State Synthetic (Dex) has better temp stability (pressure gauge, temp gauge) and less wear (drainplug magnet) than Mobil 1 Euro FS (non-Dex) in my LS1 (GM). What more is there to say? Predictably, everyone here is throwing a fit about it.

2) There is no best oil.

Is there something for me to gain with my apparently inflammatory report? How about in running an inferior oil? Even the boutique oils are cheaper than a tank of gas. My engine likes it better. I used to run the Euro FS, but I found something better. Even non-Ultimate Pennzoil Platinum worked better. I'm not saying QS works better in another engine. I'm saying it works better in mine.

3) Stick to the specs.

Anything else is experimentation. YOU tell me the data that contradicts the OEM recommendations. I'm talking results. I can read specs, and so can you. It's already been proven for me. Nobody here can possibly run as thorough tests as the fleet of engineers who design the engines and specify the oil formulations.
 
Last edited:
1) If the numbers don't line up with the result then perhaps it's time to re-evaluate your approach.

I already described that Quaker State Synthetic (Dex) has better temp stability (pressure gauge, temp gauge) and less wear (drainplug magnet) than Mobil 1 Euro FS (non-Dex) in my LS1 (GM). What more is there to say? Predictably, everyone here is throwing a fit about it.

2) There is no best oil.

Is there something for me to gain with my apparently inflammatory report? How about in running an inferior oil? Even the boutique oils are cheaper than a tank of gas. My engine likes it better. I used to run the Euro FS, but I found something better. Even non-Ultimate Pennzoil Platinum worked better. I'm not saying QS works better in another engine. I'm saying it works better in mine.

3) Stick to the specs.

Anything else is experimentation. YOU tell me the data that contradicts the OEM recommendations. I'm talking results. I can read specs, and so can you. It's already been proven for me. Nobody here can possibly run as thorough tests as the fleet of engineers who design the engines and specify the oil formulations.
Ah OK, that makes sense. I know when I go to the doctor and they draw blood to check cholesterol, I can immediately tell by the way the blood looks that I am absolutely fine.
Was just wondering.
 
Ah OK, that makes sense. I know when I go to the doctor and they draw blood to check cholesterol, I can immediately tell by the way the blood looks that I am absolutely fine.
Was just wondering.

A better analogy is your blood cholesterol is higher, but you tell the doctor impossible because you eat "heart healthy" cheerios. It said so on the box.

Got numbers on the results? Think there's a difference between filings on the drainplug magnet and Fe content in a Blackstone UOA? That indicates wear in my world idk about your truth.
 
Ah OK, that makes sense. I know when I go to the doctor and they draw blood to check cholesterol, I can immediately tell by the way the blood looks that I am absolutely fine.
Was just wondering.

if it comes out green I'm going on a limp and say you're not fine... so there's that.
 
1) If the numbers don't line up with the result then perhaps it's time to re-evaluate your approach.

I already described that Quaker State Synthetic (Dex) has better temp stability (pressure gauge, temp gauge) and less wear (drainplug magnet) than Mobil 1 Euro FS (non-Dex) in my LS1 (GM). What more is there to say? Predictably, everyone here is throwing a fit about it.

2) There is no best oil.

Is there something for me to gain with my apparently inflammatory report? How about in running an inferior oil? Even the boutique oils are cheaper than a tank of gas. My engine likes it better. I used to run the Euro FS, but I found something better. Even non-Ultimate Pennzoil Platinum worked better. I'm not saying QS works better in another engine. I'm saying it works better in mine.

3) Stick to the specs.

Anything else is experimentation. YOU tell me the data that contradicts the OEM recommendations. I'm talking results. I can read specs, and so can you. It's already been proven for me. Nobody here can possibly run as thorough tests as the fleet of engineers who design the engines and specify the oil formulations.
That really doesn’t make any sense at all. It’s certainly not any sort of proof that one oil is better than another.

And what “specs” are you reading?
 
That really doesn’t make any sense at all. It’s certainly not any sort of proof that one oil is better than another.

And what “specs” are you reading?
You're telling me that better oil pressure as temps climb, less wear, less evaporative loss, quieter valvetrain, and more consistency over a 5k OCI isn't how to evaluate oil?

Specs? The guy who thinks preventing wear isn't a function of oil is asking me about specs.

You and I already went around about MS-6935. Remember saying how wear isn't an issue in fully formulated oil, me showing you that it is something that is actually evaluated, then you asking to compare the wear specs of oils?

 
Last edited:
You and I already went around about MS-6935. Remember saying how wear isn't an issue in fully formulated oil, me showing you that it is something that is actually evaluated, then you asking to compare the wear specs of oils?

Yes you didn't understand that either.
 
1) If the numbers don't line up with the result then perhaps it's time to re-evaluate your approach.

I already described that Quaker State Synthetic (Dex) has better temp stability (pressure gauge, temp gauge) and less wear (drainplug magnet) than Mobil 1 Euro FS (non-Dex) in my LS1 (GM). What more is there to say? Predictably, everyone here is throwing a fit about it.
You've not addressed the fact that Euro FS is now dexos R, with absolutely no reformulation required. This, as I posted earlier, means it exceeds the requirements of dexos 2 and both dexos 1 gen 2 and gen 3.

The crux of your argument earlier was that because Euro oils weren't approved for GM engines (didn't have dexos) that they were inferior for dexos applications and vice-versa. Which you used to justify your position that Euro oils were just a "flavour of the month" on here and there was no evidence that they were superior.

However, we just watched in real time as a bog standard full-SAPS Euro oil just got rubber stamped with the highest possible dexos approval overnight (as well as its ESP sibling). This certainly isn't helping your argument.
2) There is no best oil.

Is there something for me to gain with my apparently inflammatory report? How about in running an inferior oil? Even the boutique oils are cheaper than a tank of gas. My engine likes it better. I used to run the Euro FS, but I found something better. Even non-Ultimate Pennzoil Platinum worked better. I'm not saying QS works better in another engine. I'm saying it works better in mine.
I mean, drain plug fuz aside, that wasn't the argument you were making earlier, it was about approvals, not the palette of your specific engine.
3) Stick to the specs.

Anything else is experimentation. YOU tell me the data that contradicts the OEM recommendations. I'm talking results. I can read specs, and so can you. It's already been proven for me. Nobody here can possibly run as thorough tests as the fleet of engineers who design the engines and specify the oil formulations.
Which is why FS Euro was used in the GM Race Program Corvettes.

As far as approvals go, the tests run vary wildly in severity and parameters. Many of the "OE" tests for domestic marques (FCA/Stellantis and Ford) are just slight modifications of the bog-standard API/ILSAC test protocols, sometimes pushing out the duration, or reducing the permittable level of some limit. GM at least added a few of their own tests with dexos.

The Euro approvals are a battery of actual engine tests, and since there are usually a pretty decent list of them on the product, in concert, that establishes a pretty high bar as to the level of performance. A40 for example, includes simulated lapping of the Nurburgring followed by a tear-down with measurements. These oils also have a volatility limit of 10% (M1 FS was 8.8% last time we had Noack available), while dexos is 13%.
 
Thanks. So what is the spec in the euro blend that makes them better than a dexos 1/r?
Basically one that has the proper license numbers attached to it. QS 5w-40 is cheap but great for the price given that it has proper licenses for mb 229.51, bmw ll-01, porsche a40 and some others. It's only sold online and it's showing out of stock but any euro oil is gonna be better than that dexos 20 in these and any engines. Use whatever 0/5w-30/40 grade euro you want. My l87 is so quiet with 40 grade and hardly burns compared to how much it burned with 0w-20.

Castrol euro is on sale for $24, buy tons of jugs for the 6.2 and 3.5. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Castrol-...5?classType=VARIANT&athbdg=L1300&from=/search

Also don't forget to change that maximas cvt fluid if you haven't already. In high power applications I wouldn't use universal cvt fluids since they have a touch lower coefficient of traction. In jatco applications with strong engines use the NS-3 fluid as it has the highest cot number I've seen. Castrol and Valvoline universal cvt use afton additive packs like 3435a and 3488 and their product sheets show NS-3 as still being the best. For low torque applications the weaker universal fluid is ok but on an old transmission like my jatco outlander sport I think I'll be better off spending the extra for NS-3 to keep the old belt from slipping even if driven softly and the magnet not showing much metal. I did spill and fills at around 20k but I think I'll do 10-15k now that's it's near 100k just to keep the oil as clean and metal particle free as possible as that can get in between the belt and pulleys and cause slippage which is the death of these.
 
Last edited:
You've not addressed the fact that Euro FS is now dexos R, with absolutely no reformulation required. This, as I posted earlier, means it exceeds the requirements of dexos 2 and both dexos 1 gen 2 and gen 3.

The crux of your argument earlier was that because Euro oils weren't approved for GM engines (didn't have dexos) that they were inferior for dexos applications and vice-versa. Which you used to justify your position that Euro oils were just a "flavour of the month" on here and there was no evidence that they were superior.

However, we just watched in real time as a bog standard full-SAPS Euro oil just got rubber stamped with the highest possible dexos approval overnight (as well as its ESP sibling). This certainly isn't helping your argument.

I mean, drain plug fuz aside, that wasn't the argument you were making earlier, it was about approvals, not the palette of your specific engine.

Which is why FS Euro was used in the GM Race Program Corvettes.

As far as approvals go, the tests run vary wildly in severity and parameters. Many of the "OE" tests for domestic marques (FCA/Stellantis and Ford) are just slight modifications of the bog-standard API/ILSAC test protocols, sometimes pushing out the duration, or reducing the permittable level of some limit. GM at least added a few of their own tests with dexos.

The Euro approvals are a battery of actual engine tests, and since there are usually a pretty decent list of them on the product, in concert, that establishes a pretty high bar as to the level of performance. A40 for example, includes simulated lapping of the Nurburgring followed by a tear-down with measurements. These oils also have a volatility limit of 10% (M1 FS was 8.8% last time we had Noack available), while dexos is 13%.
It is always worth reminding how Porsche tests oils and oil sumps, not bcs. Porsche A40 is gold standard (which is not) but just bcs. it is awesome 😎


 
Speaking of engine oil drain plug magnet, I used Dimple on 2 different cars (same plug fits both cars) and never saw anything on it. But I was running M1 EP 10W-30 and iirc PP 5W-30 and both have NP-01 (No Paste) approval and maybe that's why. :ROFLMAO:
I don't use the magnetic plugs anymore because I am afraid of the plug weakness being hollow and other issues ...

I see more paste on the rear diff and some on the ATF plug.
 
Older news, but still news to many I'm sure. Think things are different now?

"...dexos 1 will require the lubricant market to make some adjustments by moving beyond formulating of components to meet just GF-5...
In the case of dexos 1, several tests, in addition to the traditional ILSAC GF-4/GF-5 list, are required - including many European and GM-specific tests...We have chosen to link our dexos 1 solution to our SN/GF-5 package through a booster approach."


dex additional.webp


https://www.stle.org/images/pdf/STLE_ORG/BOK/OM_OA/Additives/Special Report_Proper Additive Balance Needed to Meet GF-5_tlt article_Sept10.pdf
 
Older news, but still news to many I'm sure. Think things are different now?

"...dexos 1 will require the lubricant market to make some adjustments by moving beyond formulating of components to meet just GF-5...
In the case of dexos 1, several tests, in addition to the traditional ILSAC GF-4/GF-5 list, are required - including many European and GM-specific tests...We have chosen to link our dexos 1 solution to our SN/GF-5 package through a booster approach."


View attachment 279011

https://www.stle.org/images/pdf/STLE_ORG/BOK/OM_OA/Additives/Special Report_Proper Additive Balance Needed to Meet GF-5_tlt article_Sept10.pdf
I appreciate how that might be news to you, that GM included some Euro tests in dexos, given your position on how Euro oils were inappropriate and inferior for dexos applications a page or so back.
 
I appreciate how that might be news to you, that GM included some Euro tests in dexos, given your position on how Euro oils were inappropriate and inferior for dexos applications a page or so back.

I said stick to the spec. Many times I emphasized that one isn't better than the other globally, as you think. It's that standards have been set, and classes of oils have been evaluated to correctly protect certain engines.

Why are you hung up on this "stricter spec" nonsense?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom