Estimate the age/mileage on these Control Arm Bushings

I recently did the whole rear suspension bushing on a 10 year old, only 2 were truly blown out the rest were iffy but hanging in there.
OE were about the same price with free on the door delivery and cheaper if you add shipping from rock. It doesnt pay to use cheap crap.

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Glad I read this thread. Was actually in the process of pricing and buying every bushing for the wife's 05LGT. Never thought about dealer, just rock auto. I may go with the dealer option, it may be cheaper and better quality. Thank you.
 
@Kurtatron if the poly bushing has not been designed correctly, or has not been correctly grease routinely and even the color of the poly bushing can break down sooner than another color. We've had experience with Black and red bushings and the red bushings tend to break down faster than the black ones. So does the bushing squeak? yes it does or can over time. catch 22 deal with the squeak or keep replacing the rubber bushings.
 
While at the Hotchkis shop over the weekend, I was told by the techs there that I need a Non-Lithium Grease which is used on the poly bushings located and installed on the New 32mm sway bar for the van. The issue is the lithium grease will break down the poly bushings. The kits came with a small grease pack as a pre-lube, but I will still need to locate a grease gun filled with a non-lithium grease product/brand there after and inform our shop about our findings.
 
I replaced one OEM steering knuckle ball joint at ~180K miles due to minimal play and a torn boot. The car now has ~210K on it and the reasonably expensive replacement ball joint (with a zerk) now clicks audibly under some conditions. I probably would have been better off leaving the OEM joint in place, and I don't really feel like replacing it again. For me, it's OEM whenever possible. In this particular case, OEM comes with a complete steering knuckle, so $50 vs. $500. If I have to do the other side, it will be OEM.
 
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