Engine Sensors OEM or Auto Parts Store Aftermarket

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I agree with earlier suggestions to research car specific forums for the sensors in question. But I will say that generic aftermarket sensors make me uneasy. The decision to use one should be weighed on cost and how difficult it is to replace.

I can't comment on other brands, but I've had enough trouble with BWD to convince me that they are a garbage brand. My conclusion with BWD is that they have a loose interpretation of specifications. They will market parts for an application that they don't work properly with. So some of their stuff might work, and some of it doesn't. They rely on the fact that most people won't notice the discrepancies or just won't care.

On a 1997 GM 3800, a new BWD coolant temperature gauge sender was giving temperature readings about 20-30F higher than actual. The factory sender, the ECM connected temperature sensor, and an infrared thermometer all agreed that temperatures were normal, but the new BWD sender was inducing false alarms that the car was overheating. The part is out of spec. We put the half-broken factory sender back in.

On a GM 2.8L, three consecutive BWD aftermarket oil pressure sensors all produced much lower readings than actual (as compared to a mechanical gauge). The 25yr old factory sensor was accurate, just erratic. Both of the modern Delco replacements were also accurate. All 3 of the BWDs induced "low pressure" warning lights and showed only ~10psi when actual was about 25psi (as measured with a mechanical gauge). These were a "lifetime warranty" part which clearly are out of spec by design. I gave up on them and went back to paying for Delcos which operate in specification.
One of the modern Delcos died in 9 months, so I won't say they're great. But until it died, it worked correctly. The other is ~2 years old now.

Because of these episodes, I am distrustful of generic sensors, and BWD in particular. I won't always be able to tell if a sensor is truly working correctly, so I need to have some confidence in them. If they aren't terribly expensive then I prefer to stick with Delco for GM cars. If I had a Ford, I'd prefer Motorcraft, etc.
I've found that while the premium brand sensors might be expensive or unavailable locally, they can be ordered pretty cheaply online.
 
For O2 sensors, I used Bosch on everything, except a Toyota where I used Denso. Never had one go bad yet. For everything else, OE.

I have seen aftermarket temperature sensors that were plastic where the OE one was brass and told them to keep it. That was probably the last time I even looked at a non OE sensor (O2 excluded).
 
Our cheap MAF replacements experience suggests that at least for some critical sensors, it does not pay to go non OEM. Especially any analog sensor whose output has a range of value and the engine management decisions require them to be absolutely accurate otherwise your fuel trim will never stay at or near zero.
 
I replaced the Crankshaft Position Sensor on the Cherokee this fall ... before the original one left me stranded on the side of the road.

Generally, I don't do dealer parts. This was a case where I had no problem doing dealer parts. A lot of times, the aftermarket crankshafts sensors (even the good ones) don't work that well.

I'm sure that it was made on the same assembly line as the cheap one from Advance Auto parts "Heecho en Mexico" ... but I rarely hear of issueswith the dealer crankshaft sensors.
 
If OEM is so good, why did it fail the first time. In my opinion, a ton of sensors are replaced when the wiring harness, or connector is bad. Move it to replace the sensor, and then it works. A few weeks later after heat cycles and engine movement, the electrical connection goes out again, and the replacement sensor is thought to be bad.

More GM front wheel hubs are replaced because the end user thinks the built in ABS sensor is bad when the wiring harness is actually bad.

Dave
 
Originally Posted By: Miller88
I replaced the Crankshaft Position Sensor on the Cherokee this fall ... before the original one left me stranded on the side of the road.

Generally, I don't do dealer parts. This was a case where I had no problem doing dealer parts. A lot of times, the aftermarket crankshafts sensors (even the good ones) don't work that well.

I'm sure that it was made on the same assembly line as the cheap one from Advance Auto parts "Heecho en Mexico" ... but I rarely hear of issueswith the dealer crankshaft sensors.


That is a bear to get to. I gave up and had the local independent shop do it. He charged $60 for the install and I paid about $60 for the OEM part online. I bought a few other things to make shipping worth it.

I vote OEM unless I know a certain OEM part is made by a certain company. Denso makes OEM oxygen sensors for my Jeep. Parts stores carry them.
 
I always try and get the OEM manufacturer before going to the dealer, however thermostats and coolant temp sensors I always get Genuine VW/Audi from the dealer as aftermarket sucks. I get Bosch MAF/o2 sensors.
 
Originally Posted By: bmod305
If OEM is so good, why did it fail the first time. In my opinion, a ton of sensors are replaced when the wiring harness, or connector is bad. Move it to replace the sensor, and then it works. A few weeks later after heat cycles and engine movement, the electrical connection goes out again, and the replacement sensor is thought to be bad.

More GM front wheel hubs are replaced because the end user thinks the built in ABS sensor is bad when the wiring harness is actually bad.

Dave
The OEM cooling fan switch failing after 21 years and 161,000 miles is pretty acceptable. The aftermarket switch I replaced it with lasted 2 years and 14,000 miles, which is not acceptable. I replaced it (again) with another OEM switch.
 
In the case of Maximas, after market MAF sensors from any parts store will not run good for long, if at all. Parts store coils run fine, but will trigger a primary ignition code due to the wrong number of turns on the primary coil, and thus the wrong resistance value. Amazingly $5 Chinese eBay knock sensors work great though.

I think it depends on the sensitivity of the car, and the simplicity of the part. In the case of the knock sensor, Every Nissan for 20 years used the same exact sensor, and for that reason they can be cheaply mass produced and sold at a very small price due to the shear number of parts sold.
 
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
I always look for Denso or NTK oxygen sensors, although I think Bosch may sell a lot of those "rebranded" as their own. Sometimes the Bosch is cheaper.


I bought a Direct Fit Standard O2 sensor from Rockauto for $50 shipped, and what I got was a reboxed NTK made in Japan. Replaced the OEM Nissan NTK with another NTK:).
 
Originally Posted By: bmod305
If OEM is so good, why did it fail the first time. In my opinion, a ton of sensors are replaced when the wiring harness, or connector is bad. Move it to replace the sensor, and then it works. A few weeks later after heat cycles and engine movement, the electrical connection goes out again, and the replacement sensor is thought to be bad.

More GM front wheel hubs are replaced because the end user thinks the built in ABS sensor is bad when the wiring harness is actually bad.


+1

And yes I have a 1999 Alero with wheel bearings famous for this "wheel bearing" issues that's really wiring.
 
Some are reboxed OEM, some are otherwise equal or better, but most is now Chinese [censored]
frown.gif


Beck/Arnley has gotten really bad in the past few years; they used to be mainly reboxed OEM but have now switched to mainly cheap junk. The aftermarket in general has followed the same path.

I actually emailed Motorking once about Airtex sensors (Airtex is part of Fram), and he told me it's usually reboxed OEM unless the OE part is failure-prone, in which case they redesign it and make it in the US or Mexico.

Denso is usually safe to use as well. They are the largest auto parts company in the world; they make many OE parts including many if not most of Toyota's OE parts; Denso is a subsidiary of Toyota; and most Denso parts are made in first-world countries. Either they are the OE supplier or they rebox OE or some other reasonable quality part.

I've seen Hitachi parts on Rock Auto lately, claiming to be the actual OE part. In particular, they have a lot of stuff for Nissans. So far they all seem to be made in Japan (Hitachi is also the parent company of Tokico)

Generally, AVOID Delphi, unless Delphi made the OE part. Most Delphi non-OE is made in China these days.

Standard Motor Products and Bosch are both shots in the dark, unless Bosch made the OE part. You could get reboxed OE, something made in Germany or Belgium, or Chinese low quality. (However, most if not all Bosch spark plugs are made in Germany)

For some of them, you can search on eBay for the parts, searching by brand and part number, and the country of origin will pop up. I know this to work with Bosch, Airtex, Denso, Beck/Arnley, and sometimes Delphi and SMP.

For oxygen sensors, you can't go wrong with Denso or NGK/NTK. Bosch is probably OK to use in Euro cars as well.
 
Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog

Denso is usually safe to use as well. They are the largest auto parts company in the world; they make many OE parts including many if not most of Toyota's OE parts; Denso is a subsidiary of Toyota; and most Denso parts are made in first-world countries. Either they are the OE supplier or they rebox OE or some other reasonable quality part.

I bought a Denso O2 sensor a few years ago. It seems to work perfectly as far as I can tell, but I don't think I'd know if it was slightly off. My fuel mileage improved, anyway, so it was obviously better than the worn out original part.
General opinion at the time was that it's the same as the Delco part, and much cheaper, so I went with it. Bosch had bad reviews.

Quote:
Generally, AVOID Delphi, unless Delphi made the OE part. Most Delphi non-OE is made in China these days.

Yeah, a few years ago I paid a premium for a Delphi MAP sensor. It turned out to be made in China, which really annoyed me. I could have paid less than half for another brand. Further diagnosis revealed that the original GM part was not faulty. I didn't need or want the Chinese part on my car so I returned it.

Quote:
For some of them, you can search on eBay for the parts, searching by brand and part number, and the country of origin will pop up. I know this to work with Bosch, Airtex, Denso, Beck/Arnley, and sometimes Delphi and SMP.

Good idea - I'll try to remember that. I've gotten lucky on my old 86 GM - most of the parts I've bought have been made in the US, and some of it from Mexico, I'm guessing from the same Mexican plant where Delco-Remy made some sensors in the 80s. The only Chinese part I've run into was that MAP sensor which I returned.

I also ran into one case where somebody on eBay posted old stock being liquidated from a dealership. I don't know how common that is, but they were unused GM original parts, and cheap.
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Originally Posted By: Miller88
I replaced the Crankshaft Position Sensor on the Cherokee this fall ... before the original one left me stranded on the side of the road.

Generally, I don't do dealer parts. This was a case where I had no problem doing dealer parts. A lot of times, the aftermarket crankshafts sensors (even the good ones) don't work that well.

I'm sure that it was made on the same assembly line as the cheap one from Advance Auto parts "Heecho en Mexico" ... but I rarely hear of issueswith the dealer crankshaft sensors.


That is a bear to get to. I gave up and had the local independent shop do it. He charged $60 for the install and I paid about $60 for the OEM part online. I bought a few other things to make shipping worth it.

I vote OEM unless I know a certain OEM part is made by a certain company. Denso makes OEM oxygen sensors for my Jeep. Parts stores carry them.


I generally try to do most things myself, but that's just one I wasn't going to get at without help. Since it wasn't failed, it wasn't urgent.

Ended up bringing it to my indy mechanic. He was a master tech for a large Chrysler dealership. I kid you not, he had that thing changed in 5 minutes. I donated $20 for the service - he didn't even want to charge for it since it is so easy for him.

This was back in september. I'd probably still not have it out if I had tried myself.
 
Depends on the sensor. Crank, cam and wheel speed sensors are just a magnetic pulse generator and fairly simple.
 
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Depends on the sensor. Crank, cam and wheel speed sensors are just a magnetic pulse generator and fairly simple.


It's right against the firewall, on top of the transmission. Heat kills the cheap ones quickly.
 
My general rule is to stick with OEM replacement parts. I do have a list of exceptions, but I don't think there are many sensors on that list.
 
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