eric we all told you that running long oci's in a sludge prone engine will only sludge up haha..... we still love you eric 
Ending M1 OCI
- Thread starter ericthepig
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Mikes always there with an encouraging word.
hmmmm... so you guys wouldn't recommend running extended OCI's on a 92' lexus SC400 with the 4.0L quad-cam V8?
BennyL, I don't think there are many similarities between the SC400 heads (Or motors) and the Sienna, and I have never heard they sludge up. In my wife's 92 SC400 we run dino with 3-5K intervals. It uses abot a quart in 5K, mosttly at startup after sitting a couple of days. I will be following this board's recommendation to run two cleanings with Auto-RX to see if it cleans up the valve guide seals, but I've been procrastinating because I don't have any shade to work under...
Oh., the car has 180K, 80K with us and 100K unknown maintenance. Runs like a runaway freight train once it gets going!
Oh., the car has 180K, 80K with us and 100K unknown maintenance. Runs like a runaway freight train once it gets going!
BennyL, the engines in question were certain V6 (used in Camrys, Siennas, and Lexus RX300s) and a certain V4 (used in Corollas) - they were produced from 1998 to 2001 (I think Caspian above is correct - they altered the design a bit in 2002 - no problems since 2002 that I've heard of - LOTS of problems from 1998 to 2001).
Gordo - I had significant smoke plumes at start-up in my 88 Mazda. All the HM oils I've tried reduce it to pretty much unnoticeable. Strangely though (if this test is still in good standing) - Bob (of BITOG fame) soaked some engine seals in various oils (including HMs) - there was no size increase. Meanwhile, Schaeffers Neutra 131 did clean and increase the seal size (reasonable amt - no overly so). But the HMs have worked great for me. I may go to the Neutra in my Mazda to see if I can not only fix the symptom but the problem.
Gordo - I had significant smoke plumes at start-up in my 88 Mazda. All the HM oils I've tried reduce it to pretty much unnoticeable. Strangely though (if this test is still in good standing) - Bob (of BITOG fame) soaked some engine seals in various oils (including HMs) - there was no size increase. Meanwhile, Schaeffers Neutra 131 did clean and increase the seal size (reasonable amt - no overly so). But the HMs have worked great for me. I may go to the Neutra in my Mazda to see if I can not only fix the symptom but the problem.
Eric, thanks for the input. I already have 4 bottles of Auto-RX in the garage so I'm going to try them on the SC400 for the startup smoke, and my 05 accord 4cyl to see if I can lower th oil consumption. I know 1 Qt every 3K is not terrible, but I think its too much for an 05 with less than 30k. As for the HM, That would probably be a good thing to try in the old Lexus after the Auto-RX.
Gordo, you might want to start a thread (post) concerning your 05 Honda. Perhaps some Honda experts would chime in - seems like most of the Honda posts I read are - "doesn't burn a drop".
The HMs can take several hundred miles into the OCI to have full effect. I've been using them since Valv. Maxlife first came out - I couldn't believe the results. The hype was true in my case.
The HMs can take several hundred miles into the OCI to have full effect. I've been using them since Valv. Maxlife first came out - I couldn't believe the results. The hype was true in my case.
I went for 8000 oci with both 97 Camry and 03 Sienna with M1 red cap and no issues. Oil did not look thick or black and did not even smell unusual. engines did not use any make up oil and both were exactly about 5 gallons perhaps 1/4 less at most. Camry has 80k on it.
Have you thought about trying Valvoline Maxlife Synthetic?
My '96 Crown Vic comsumes the least amount of oil with it.
When I tried an OCI with M1, it almost doubled the consumption.
My '96 Crown Vic comsumes the least amount of oil with it.
When I tried an OCI with M1, it almost doubled the consumption.
I can see 8035 miles on a 10 quart oil sump, but those many miles on a small sump is just way beyond what my little brain can comprehend.
I just passed 2000 miles on my first M1 OCI and so far it has used nearly nil or trace amount of oil. If I wear to guess it would be about half ounce or a trace amount of makeup oil. Let's just say the marker went down from the top line to just teeny tiny below the full mark, like I said such a small amount that I didn't even bother adding a trace amount to get it right at the full mark and I am pretty picky and careful about always having the oil level right at the upper full mark.
Now in contrast on my last OCI which happened to be PP, that oil, PP used like a 1/8 a quart within the first 2000 miles easy and I remember adding about a good and complete half quart easy for the entire 5k OCI. Now I was using a slightly oversized filter, still a HONDA OEM(S2000) but still not the one designed for my ride (Accord) nor do I know if it was cleaning from the previous OCI of MC which if I'm not mistaken might have some varnish issues (in certain apps like Mustangs?)
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Well, after the Auto-RX treatment with dino I plan to go with Amsoil 0W-20 instead of the M1 5W-30 I have been using (Literally using!), and I'll see if I get less consumption than with M1.
Keep in mind I bought the car very cheap (Repo) at 22K miles, and it did not look as if it had been well maintained. I hope they changed the oil at least once in that time...
All that being said it runs great, plenty of power and great gas mileage. So, Im switching from M1 as well Eric.
Keep in mind I bought the car very cheap (Repo) at 22K miles, and it did not look as if it had been well maintained. I hope they changed the oil at least once in that time...
All that being said it runs great, plenty of power and great gas mileage. So, Im switching from M1 as well Eric.
My Honda Element uses 1/2 quart of M1 5W-20 per 8500 miles. Instead of adding, I just change it then.
IslandVic, user Mokanic suggested the Valv. Maxlife line as a detergent rich oil to use during this cleaning process. I may use it in the next iteration (not sure if I'd go with the the blend or the synth version). But may still low-ball price wise and use the Rotella, since it's a short OCI.
Post cleaning Schaeffers is at the top of the list, though Maxlife is worthy to be on the list as well.
Post cleaning Schaeffers is at the top of the list, though Maxlife is worthy to be on the list as well.
I ran the Seafoam 40 hard miles over two days and dumped it today while hot. Put in the Rotella 15w40. My van's first dino (under my care). Very subjective here, but the van might be just a bit quieter, but it's the same kind of quite I get when I run 20w50 in my Mazda. Kind've a heavier dull sound. And I really think the van is less responsive on this 15w40 (during warm-up and at op temp).
Plan to procure me some Neutra 131 asap.
Plan to procure me some Neutra 131 asap.
M1 has shown high iron wear in a number of UOAs. Dyson has suggested that this may be due to M1s inability to handle fuel dilution very well.
There are many oils out there which seem to deal well with fuel dilution, according to the UOAs posted in that forum.
PP seems to do well, as does RLI's syn (with corn oil?).
It may not be your engine. It may be your oil.
There are many oils out there which seem to deal well with fuel dilution, according to the UOAs posted in that forum.
PP seems to do well, as does RLI's syn (with corn oil?).
It may not be your engine. It may be your oil.
Well, are these indicators that the M1 has in fact gone GroupIII and needs to be changed at 7500 tops, earlier if your car is a stresser? Also, I'm seeing numbers on the 0W20 M1 showing -65 degree F pour points. An indicator perhaps, of a full syn?
If you're suspicious of sludged rings, isn't the hands-down most successful solution a new filter, dino oil, new filter and an Auto-RX treat with another new filter at 1500 miles into the treatment?
If you're suspicious of sludged rings, isn't the hands-down most successful solution a new filter, dino oil, new filter and an Auto-RX treat with another new filter at 1500 miles into the treatment?
Toocrazy, every thing I'm reading says Neutra has some legitimate chemistry making it a very capable cleaner, and a very safe one. When a Toyota master tech, BITOG elders, and Bob himself are recommending it/using it (and it's significantly cheaper than A-rx) - I'm feeling real good about my chances.
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