EcoGard X4651

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This is an EcoGard x4651 with 2,080 miles/6 months on it.
192,060 miles on the truck, 5,090 miles/10 months on the oil.

Can:


Nice that the cross reference is on the can:


Baseplate (I added the magnets myself
smile.gif
):


Opened up, nitrile ADV flexable and no cuts, spiral center tube with holes:


Metal seam crimp, just one wide pleat, the rest look great.
I did notice the overall height of the media is a little shorter than other filters, so overall media area is probably less than others.






Coil spring:


Just a little debris in the can (looks like the magnets caught some stuff):



Added some Castrol GTX High Mileage 5w-20 and a EcoGard S4651 (their synthetic filter).


And before you ask why I changed it with only 2000 miles on it, reference my virgin sample of this filter.
That and it has been 6 months since I changed the filter, the oil is 10 months old (only 5000 miles on it, with 3 qts make up oil).
Plus this:


I do mostly short trips (3 miles to work 3 times a week) with occasional 50 mile highway trips each way, 2-3 times a month.
I thought this occasional highway driving would prevent this, but apparently not (just drove out there a week ago).

I am planning on a 1 year interval for the current fill, but we will see.

The media is drying out (paper towel with rubber band around it) and I will cut it apart in a day or so.

Overall, I am happy with this filter. For the $1.86 I paid for it, great deal. A good regular OCI filter for sure.
For the current price of $2.86 on Walmart.com, it is OK. I would take it over the Supertech (I was not happy with the ST2 I had on before).
For the $7 price on Amazon, no thanks. It is $1.48 on rockauto.com though.
 
I never followed up on that Charlie.

On the synthetic I installed, I had it sitting sideways with oil in it for about 20 minutes (I pre-filled the filter and let the oil soak in, then set it on the side) and I did not see anything leaking out. Is the synthetic built differently, don't know (but will look into it when I tear it apart).

While not ideal, I don't think it is a deal breaker.
As far as I know, my sideways mounted filter never had any startup noise or problems from it.
 
blupupher, I have to say thank you for all the oil filter cutting open and thoughtful analysis you do. Also, thank you for always providing links to relevant other posts of yours.

I spent a little bit of time going through your various findings (thanks to the links you provide), and much of what you found, I have also seen. Strange material in a Bosch Premium (you saw that in a PureOne), brittle media, rust in cans.

Overall, it just seems that the quality of so many filters is lower than one would expect, especially seeing that manufacturer ocis are getting longer. For my usage (low mileage so filters in use for 1.5 years+), I'm glad that I'm running fully synthetic oil filters with quality construction.
 
Originally Posted By: blupupher

Baseplate (I added the magnets myself
smile.gif



Did you get the idea from me?
grin2.gif


I anxiously awaiting the next filter you pull off of your brother's 5.4!!!
eek.gif
crazy.gif
 
Originally Posted By: blupupher
I do mostly short trips (3 miles to work 3 times a week) with occasional 50 mile highway trips each way, 2-3 times a month.
I thought this occasional highway driving would prevent this, but apparently not (just drove out there a week ago).

I wouldn't be too alarmed, but I wouldn't be afraid to change out the PCV if I were you. My F-150's was passing all the nominal tests one time, but giving a few symptoms like yours, even though my trips were much longer than yours. I changed mine out and the residue disappeared immediately.
 
This filter looks very good as well as the oil. Nothing bad happened at the wide pleat space in 6 months with less than ideal conditions. I like Garak’s advice on the PCV. Somehow the filler cap became a point of moisture condensation.

Thanks for the well done C&P.
 
Wondering what value-priced oil filters other than the Fram EG, doesn't have that spring valve inside it?
My two GMs have their own bypass system and I don't need a bypass valve in my oil filters.
 
Originally Posted By: CharlieBauer
blupupher, I have to say thank you for all the oil filter cutting open and thoughtful analysis you do. Also, thank you for always providing links to relevant other posts of yours.

I spent a little bit of time going through your various findings (thanks to the links you provide), and much of what you found, I have also seen. Strange material in a Bosch Premium (you saw that in a PureOne), brittle media, rust in cans.

Overall, it just seems that the quality of so many filters is lower than one would expect, especially seeing that manufacturer ocis are getting longer. For my usage (low mileage so filters in use for 1.5 years+), I'm glad that I'm running fully synthetic oil filters with quality construction.

You are welcome. Not sure how much "analysis" is actually going on, more just observations, but I have fun doing it.

There seem to be a few filter models with minimal to no issues (Fram Ultra, Wix/NAPA Gold, Baldwin, most OEM), it seems the mid-level filters is where most problems are (aside from the Purolator issues that are seen across all lines), and many of the "cheap" made in China filters appear better.

As for the longer oil change intervals, many engines now days are going to cartridge filters, so that eliminates ADV, bypass and canister issues. There are just issues with fitment of aftermarket cartridges.

Originally Posted By: Linctex

Did you get the idea from me?
grin2.gif


I anxiously awaiting the next filter you pull off of your brother's 5.4!!!
eek.gif
crazy.gif


Maybe??? LOL. I could not remember who's filter I had seen it on.

Yes, it was your post that gave me the idea. I have plenty of HDD magnets laying around, and decided on internal magnets instead of external ones this time. The magnets wedged under the little lip perfectly, so that along with the magnetisim kept them in place.

I think I put magnets in the same place on my BiL filter, plus one on the outside top (it is another Bosch D+). It will help me see how much of the stuff is iron vs copper or brass. I have no idea why I did not do it before.
I have given him warning that that engine is probably on it's last leg, and he needs to look at getting rid of it while still running.

Originally Posted By: Garak

I wouldn't be too alarmed, but I wouldn't be afraid to change out the PCV if I were you. My F-150's was passing all the nominal tests one time, but giving a few symptoms like yours, even though my trips were much longer than yours. I changed mine out and the residue disappeared immediately.

I replaced the PCV about 10,000 miles ago with a Motorcraft one (even though the one on it appeared good) hoping it was the reason for me using 1 qt every 1500 miles (it was not).

Like I said, for the current fill i have, I am really going to try to make myself wait a full year (~6000 miles). I figure I will be adding a qt every 1500 miles, so by 6000 miles, I will be needing to add a qt, so I will just change it then.

But then again, my annual mileage has dropped a lot on the truck since I got my motorcycle. I take the bike to work most of the time, as well as my longer trips (usually to my moms, it is a fun ride on the bike). So in a year, it may be less than 5000 miles.
 
Originally Posted By: blupupher
This is an EcoGard x4651 with 2,080 miles/6 months on it.
192,060 miles on the truck, 5,090 miles/10 months on the oil.

....snip....

And before you ask why I changed it with only 2000 miles on it, reference my virgin sample of this filter.
That and it has been 6 months since I changed the filter, the oil is 10 months old (only 5000 miles on it, with 3 qts make up oil).
Plus this:


I do mostly short trips (3 miles to work 3 times a week) with occasional 50 mile highway trips each way, 2-3 times a month.
I thought this occasional highway driving would prevent this, but apparently not (just drove out there a week ago).

I am planning on a 1 year interval for the current fill, but we will see.


This article seems to be a good writeup on the reason for the oil/water emulsion. It could be a leak causing low vacuum or anything that would not let filtered air flow through the engine. They also suggest a shorter OCI.
Symptoms of a Bad PCV Valve
 
Originally Posted By: WellOiled
Somehow the filler cap became a point of moisture condensation.


Because the oil filler cap typically runs cooler than most of the parts on the engine, and the moisture in the oil condenses out on the cooler parts. If the valve covers were popped off, the tops of them would probably look similar.
 
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: WellOiled
Somehow the filler cap became a point of moisture condensation.


Because the oil filler cap typically runs cooler than most of the parts on the engine, and the moisture in the oil condenses out on the cooler parts. If the valve covers were popped off, the tops of them would probably look similar.

Agreed. The engine likely not getting hot enough for long enough to drive off the condensation. A 1 hour drive per week might do wonders.
 
Originally Posted By: blupupher
I replaced the PCV about 10,000 miles ago with a Motorcraft one (even though the one on it appeared good) hoping it was the reason for me using 1 qt every 1500 miles (it was not).

Fair enough. Given the cost and ease, it was certainly worth a try. I went with Motorcraft as well, then. My truck wasn't consuming, but leaking like a sieve. I was getting a bit worse milky mess than you were, but I was running long, long trips, so something was certainly amiss.

Of course, some engines will just leave a bit of that under certain driving conditions and ambient, but you (and most of us here) are already way ahead of the game given that we pay attention in the first place.
 
Looks great, thanks for posting. I bought a few for the MIL's Escape and they seem to do a great job so far. I also got a few of the synthetic ones for my Cummins but have yet to do my first oil change on it yet.
 
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