Early to mid-2000 Explorer owners?

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I'm not a "Ford guy", but, I just purchased a 2005 Eddie Bauer Explorer 4x4 with the 4.0L V6, from a local Toyota dealership. 167,659 miles, but, looks well taken care of. Has all the bells & whistles, 3rd row seat, dual climate control, Auto 4WD, etc.

Any issues to look out for or check on? I've read about the timing chain "death rattle". Not sure if this one had the problem or not. Maybe it's been fixed by now. CarFax was clean, other than the tranny being rebuilt at 94,000 miles. Drives fine, looks sharp. Should be fine for occasional Winter driving. Don't plan on driving much more than around 50-100 miles a week with it, mainly when the weather gets slippery.

Currently has (I'm assuming) Toyota 5W-30 motor oil & filter in & on. Done when inspected and put out for sale. It has went to Valvoline Instant Oil Change for at least the last few years. Figure I might use MaxLife for future changes.

What say you, Ford people? Thanks in advance for the help!
 
FWIW, the timing chain tick on the Ford Cologne SOHC V6 used in the Explorers and Mustangs of that era was indirectly affected by oil quality. I don't own one, but a friend drives a 1998 Explorer XLT he got from his uncle just after he passed some 12-13 years ago and he's got about 140K on it. He's religious about oil changes - does a 3K OCI on SuperTech oil and filters(I persuaded him to use ST Synthetic HM for only a buck more) and his engine is relatively quiet.

Ford addressed the timing chain issue with a running change in the newer Explorers around 2002 or so. The other weak point engine wise is the thermostat housing but other than those two issues they can be a reasonably reliable engine.
 
The timing chain can be a problem on the 4.0 SOHC, especially the passenger side that has the timing chain on the back side of the engine. Probably the easiest fix is to pull the engine.
Does your Explorer have a transmission dipstick? A lot of them don't. To check it, you have to remove the plug from the bottom side of the oil pan, a procedure that is best explained by watching some YouTube videos.
About a week ago, I helped my son buy a 2005 Explorer with 95K miles. His vehicle has the 4.6 engine, as I specifically stayed away from the 4.0 SOHC.
 
Gotta ask: Why is the passenger side T chain in the rear? I'm guessing it's to keep the heads universal (usable on either side of the block).

Also: Don't both the 4.0 AND 4.6 have a IAC (Idle Air Control) valve which is rearward on the intake manifolds? It's plastic and can break at any mileage over 75K, no?
 
Besides weak transmissions and timing chain issues. Well mine had a transmission, two radiators that split 3 front hubs and an alternator, two door lock actuators. Before 100,000 miles.
Also it had a slight timing chain rattle on start up when I sold it. I only used PP and Mobil 1 in it.
 
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Thanks, folks! Just brought it home this evening. Ran & drove smoothly. Hopefully, there'll be no issues, but, I'll be taking it in to a local mechanic for a full inspection, and get their thoughts on it, as well. Rather have a professional give it the once over, rather than my clueless rear.
 
I had an 02, purchased as a CPO when one year old, and I knew the previous owner who had no trouble with it. I put about 100k on it and sold it to a friend who still uses it for errands.

I believe these problems may have been isolated to the earliest first years of that design generation, but something was wrong with the metallurgy of both the springs and the rear differential. My left rear spring disintegrated, like throwing a glass bottle onto pavement, when I hit a bump around 90k miles. I've never seen a spring shatter like that. New springs were installed and the problem never came back. My rear diff had the infamous "60MPH whine" until I changed it to heavier-weight lube. I want to say 90-140, but not sure, it's been about 10 years. I got tons of advice from online Explorer forums.

Otherwise it was a decent vehicle. Think I had to change out an ABS module once, which was a super easy job behind the glove compartment as I recall. At least one wheel bearing. No major problems, engine was fine, tranny and 4WD system worked well, very comfortable seats (XLT trimline)....all in all I think I got my money's worth.
 
Electrical issues are common, wife has a 98 EB but with the 5.0 V8 instead. I'd skip it and see if you can find a V8 version personally simply because it's an upgraded 302 and one of Ford's most reliable engines. Way more oomph for highway driving, passing trucks and about the same gas mileage. Hers only has a little over 100k on it but we're probably gonna trade it in on a 4Runner before long due to the never ending electrical issues, those aside, it's been a great SUV and the AWD is a nice feature.

Check the wiring under the hood for cracking or missing insulation with exposed copper, those are big red flags to stay away. Be a good idea to take a gander at the fuse boxes and see if there are any blown fuses while you're in there.
 
Originally Posted by Kira
Gotta ask: Why is the passenger side T chain in the rear? I'm guessing it's to keep the heads universal (usable on either side of the block).


It was an OHV engine converted to OHC, in place of the camshaft in the V-bank actuating lifters and pushrods there's a jackshaft that drives the passenger side cam. There's a distinct offset of the cylinder heads.

Unlike GM's approach that still uses a jackshaft but a complex chain drive and heads with the DOHC Cosworth 350 and the 3.1L V6.
 
Finally found a pic of it! Haha

IMG_6627.JPG
 
Exterior body panel on the tailgate (just under the rear glass and above the license plate) will split, if it hasn't already. Very obvious vertical crack.
 
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Originally Posted by nthach
Originally Posted by Kira
Gotta ask: Why is the passenger side T chain in the rear? I'm guessing it's to keep the heads universal (usable on either side of the block).


It was an OHV engine converted to OHC, in place of the camshaft in the V-bank actuating lifters and pushrods there's a jackshaft that drives the passenger side cam. There's a distinct offset of the cylinder heads.

Unlike GM's approach that still uses a jackshaft but a complex chain drive and heads with the DOHC Cosworth 350 and the 3.1L V6.


The 3.4L DOHC engine had a Primary Timing Chain & a Secondary Timing Belt.
 
In addition to the issues already mentioned, this era of Explorers with IRS also had rear differential problems. A friend of mine described it as a "Whiney in the Hiney". The problem usually appeared by the time they got about 60k miles on them, so in your case it has likely already been dealt with.
Also, the power mirror control switch is prone to failure, the A/C system is subject to developing leaks, HVAC air door control motors are problematic, the brake rotors tend to warp, and exhaust manifold bolts can brake.
 
If you haven't found it already, there is an Explorer Forum that has a lot of useful information. I've got a 4th Gen (3rd Gen was 02-05, 4th Gen was 06-10), drove a series of 3rd gens at work.

Most of the ground has been covered. Expect the tailgate to crack if hasn't already. Front wheel bearings are relatively easy to replace, rears are a royal pita. The thermostat housing will likely go at some point. If the rear end doesn't whine at those miles, you should be good to go.

The transmission is well, not the best. Service it regularly.

Good Luck!
 
Originally Posted by MNgopher
If you haven't found it already, there is an Explorer Forum that has a lot of useful information. I've got a 4th Gen (3rd Gen was 02-05, 4th Gen was 06-10), drove a series of 3rd gens at work.

Most of the ground has been covered. Expect the tailgate to crack if hasn't already. Front wheel bearings are relatively easy to replace, rears are a royal pita. The thermostat housing will likely go at some point. If the rear end doesn't whine at those miles, you should be good to go.

The transmission is well, not the best. Service it regularly.

Good Luck!


Thanks, gopher! Just noticed the tailgate crack yesterday, though it's not an issue. I think the rear bearings were also replaced. Definitely going to service the [censored] out of it.
 
Thermostat housings are made of plastic. They crack and leak. You can buy an aftermarket housing that's all cast aluminum to fix the problem permanently, although it's considerably more expensive than a new plastic one.
 
Originally Posted by MNgopher
If you haven't found it already, there is an Explorer Forum that has a lot of useful information.


This.
explorerforum.com
 
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